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Old 10-18-2012, 06:58 AM   #70201
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Thanks fellas. After perusing your links and doing a Google search of advrider (way better than the in-house search functionality BTW) I decided that if I need a battery (I'm hoping this one might just need some water and a charge) the 10.5 Ah AGM Motobatt MBTX9U for ~ $67 is the way to go.

I appreciate your help.
Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/201106011...ki-battery.pdf


Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.


I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf

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Old 10-18-2012, 11:18 AM   #70202
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Here's some info I've posted in the past. Has anyone used the YTZ14S? 230 cca sounds interesting. If your supplier only references batteries by bike, tell them it's a 2003 Honda ST1300. When my Deka wears out in a few years, I'll probably try one myself.

Edit: I just noticed that the link in my original post is now broken. I've saved a copy of the PDF so I have a copy the whole report if needed. It can also be accessed in the archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/201106011...ki-battery.pdf
That's a lot of good information. You could put it in Krusty's DR Index.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32

While you're doing that, you could include your earlier info about the clear turn signal lenses with amber bulbs. One of the first mods I did to my DR was to replace the turn sigs with some that have clear lenses/amber bulbs. Problem is they're brittle, break easily, and are no longer available.
Thanks for the good stuff.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:48 PM   #70203
Pike Bishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud390 View Post
I'm looking at a 2006 DR650. The VIN starts out JS1SP46A followed by 9 additional numbers for a total of 17 digits. I called my insurance company and they were having issues with the "JS1" part of the VIN. I just wanted to verify that this isn't an overseas model and is a US Spec model. Does everyone else have VIN's that start with JS1?
My 2009 DR650SE purchased from a dealer in the U.S. also starts with "JS1" followed by two letters, then 2 digits, then a letter, then nine digits.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:00 PM   #70204
neoxaero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?

I'm in the process of having mine rebuilt right now. I was having some issues with it falling out of 2nd gear so I decided to just bite the bullet.

From the reading I did prior to getting the work done, it seems in 06 or 07 suzuki released a new 3rd gear that replaced the old one. I'm assuming it was done in an effort to address the issues with the gear blowing up. I decided to go a head and replace my gear with the newest one instead of buying the billet unit. Hopefully I don't regret it, but I couldn't justify replacing a $50 dollar part with one that costs $500 when the stock one may or may not blow up at some point.

Obviously, If I trash the engine in the bike due to a 3rd gear failure I'll be kicking myself.

I may consider doing the nice 3rd gear when I put the 790 kit in the bike as a little bit of extra insurance
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:39 PM   #70205
NC Rick
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Cogent Dynamics is still looking to purchase or barter for a good set of DR650 forks...

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:36 PM   #70206
mrprez
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Location: Mobile, Al
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New to me '04 model

Totally stock '04 DR with just over 6000 miles. A bit rough cosmetically but will be the base for an ADV style bike. Let the farkeling begin!

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Old 10-18-2012, 02:47 PM   #70207
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
Totally stock '04 DR with just over 6000 miles. A bit rough cosmetically but will be the base for an ADV style bike. Let the farkeling begin!

If that's "rough," then my bike is laying beaten in a corner weeping. Nice buy!
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:52 PM   #70208
mrprez
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Location: Mobile, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
If that's "rough," then my bike is laying beaten in a corner weeping. Nice buy!
Thanks! A camera can make most anyone look good. It should clean up OK though.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:54 PM   #70209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
Thanks! A camera can make most anyone look good. It should clean up OK though.
Any mods planned in the near future for it? I didn't see anything looking broken on it, so at least you might not have to make your first farkles repairs.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:00 PM   #70210
mrprez
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Actually, the magneto cover has a repair where the shifter must have punched through, so case savers might be in order. I might work on the front forks, I had to do a panic stop on the way home and thought I was going to go over the bars! Plans are to put an Acerbis tank and an aftermarket seat or foam and cover. Might try to Spencerize the seat, he does a pretty good job. The seat seems wide enough, certainly much wider than the one on my DRZ. Lowered pegs, better handlebar and hand protection, maybe a Vapor bike computer....the list is endless. I often wonder what it would cost to get one of everything on the ProCycle website for a DR...

Oh, the salesman said it was only ridden to church on Sundays by a little old lady!
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:13 PM   #70211
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
If one were to pro-actively rebuild the Transmission, and wanted to make sure its as bulletproof as possible, would you use aftermarket parts or not?
I realize our friends at Procycle [and maybe others?] have a super high-quality 3rd gear kit, but I'm wondering if the collective really KNOW FOR SURE what causes the 3rd gear to detonate the trans??? Its just really hard for me to fathom that Suzi would manufacture all the parts for the trans, and keep on manufacturing just one defective component... it does not pass sniff test.

So if rebuilding with Race-proven Baja-capable parts is the ticket - is there any science on how many of them blowup for one reason or other? how many units have been tested, in-service, for long periods of time as have the Suzuki parts? its a rhetorical question....

you who have done the job, what did you use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by neoxaero View Post
I'm in the process of having mine rebuilt right now. I was having some issues with it falling out of 2nd gear so I decided to just bite the bullet.

From the reading I did prior to getting the work done, it seems in 06 or 07 suzuki released a new 3rd gear that replaced the old one. I'm assuming it was done in an effort to address the issues with the gear blowing up. I decided to go a head and replace my gear with the newest one instead of buying the billet unit. Hopefully I don't regret it, but I couldn't justify replacing a $50 dollar part with one that costs $500 when the stock one may or may not blow up at some point.

Obviously, If I trash the engine in the bike due to a 3rd gear failure I'll be kicking myself.

I may consider doing the nice 3rd gear when I put the 790 kit in the bike as a little bit of extra insurance
i still don't think anyone knows for sure what is the cause of the 3rd gear blow-up - whether there is something specifically wrong w/the way the trans loads 3rd gear, or whether it's a mfr'ing defect w/the 3rd gearset, or something else. and, as there is no data on use of bikes w/the custom 3rd gears, no one yet knows whether this is a good "fix", or whether it will simply shift the (unknown) problem elsewhere and cause something else to grenade. these new 3rd gearsets are simply too new for there to be any "1st hand experience". i have not heard of anyone w/a dr650 having a complete custom racing gearbox done up for them. i guess if you have enough money to buy a 2nd new dr650, you could have a custom gearbox done for you - a 6sp box would sure be nice!

there is also no info confirming that the "new" suzuki 3rd gear was anything more than a vendor change. there's no evidence of its being strengthened in any way, and there's plenty of "post-'06-'07" dr650's that have had 3rd gear grenade on them.

that said, the "plenty" i am referencing is something on the order of 1 in a 1000, so i am really not sure it's a potential problem that is worth addressing. there is no way i would be paying $600 for a pair of matched third gears, when you can get a factory pair for a fraction of that price. especially since there is no data that it's even a fix for the problem. if i were into my engine for any sort of major refurb, i would have my stock 3rd gears professionally checked/magnaflux'd, to be sure they're ok and then have the entire gearset cryo'd, replacing the existing 3rd gearset w/factory parts if there were evidence of wear on them. (whatever you do, if you are replacing 3rd gear, be sure to buy the pair, not yust the one gear, if you go for replacement w/stock parts.)

ymmv,

doug s.

doug s. screwed with this post 10-18-2012 at 05:15 PM Reason: clarification
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:30 PM   #70212
eakins
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Interesting comment about the Deka being actually higher CCA than the rated @ 120. i've always had nothing to top service and life out of Deka and will continue to keep buy $60 http://www.tristatebattery.com/produ...roducts_id=973 for my DR.
After 4 yrs i just pay another $60 and have peace of mind for another 4yrs. Easy as pie.

Saving a few lbs on a Shorai when used in a heavy DR seemed more like a waste of $ IMO, but i know alot of guys love em. Sure on a light dirtbike where every lbs counts it makes sense, but the DR is heavy and not a dirtbike.

Crazy how Yuasa is getting those larger batteries in the same size and still using AGM. If you look at Deka sizing is does go up and what i'd expect.
http://www.etx9.com/
http://www.etx12.com/
http://www.etx14.com/

In the end, my $ is on a new Deka and 60 bones too.

------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
There are some more powerful batteries that will fit our battery box. I haven't tried one yet, but when my Deka battery needs replacing again (in a few years!) I might try one of the "bigger" batterys. Here's some info I picked up when I was looking at replacing the battery on my '09.


I'm using a Deka battery made by East Penn Mfg. Their replacement for the standard Yuasa YTX9-BS is the ETX9.

I haven't tried it myself but I have found out that there are three Yuasa Batteries that are almost exactly the same physical size, but more Amp Hours/Cold Cranking Amps. I was really tempted to try one in my '09 when I replaced the battery this spring, but ended up going with the Deka.

The stock YTX9-BS-BS is 150x87x105 mm and 8AH/120CCA
The YTX-12A-BS is an AGM battery with the same dimensions and 9.5AH/175CCA
The YTZ 12S is an AGM battery that is 150x87x110 (5mm taller) and 11AH/210CCA
The YTZ 14S is an AGM battery that is also 150x87x110 and packs 11.2AH and 230CCA

I went to pick up 2 of the YTZ14S for me and my riding buddy and when tested one of the only two in stock had a bad cell. That made me uneasy, so I had him bring out a Deka ETX9 and test it and it exceeded the CCA of the YTZ14S so I bought the American made Dekka this time. (the salesperson told me Deka is known to be conservative in rating their batteries) I'd still like to do a side by side comparison of the YTZ battery and see if it spins the DR any better, but I've always had good service from the Dekka, so I'm not sure if I'll switch next time or not.

It sure looks like the YTZ14S might be an interesting replacement for the YTX9. It;s only 3/16" taller (5mm) and with a couple of washers under the battery retainer it apparantly fits under the seat just fine. However, if you are really concerned about weight, it does weigh about 2 pounds more than the stocker.

The only concern I might have is that there are probably more plates in the higher capacity battary in the same (relatively) size package. I've read before that this could cause a problem due to the plates being closer together.

Having said all that, I'm REALLY satisfied with the Deka ETX9. Also made in the U.S. of A. if that matters to you.

I can't take credit for this. Here's the article I found this info in and a big THANK YOU to "Scott", wherever you are!

http://www.cs.clemson.edu/~westall/8...ki-battery.pdf
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:43 PM   #70213
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Does the problem get worse or better as the engine warms up?

Regards,

Derek
its the same, still did it after I got home from a 65 mile ride.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:45 PM   #70214
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
i think you're on the right path. TTalk has a lot more discussion of carb/rebuild/etc for DR and my own personal opinion after reading obsessively on the topic is that its not easy to actually IMPROVE overall perf... there are far more fails than successes.... way, way, way more. those who are really good wrenches can succeed beautifully and have a bike that goes 5mph faster and gets there a good deal quicker, if that's important to you.....
I just want it to work, its a long way home everyday and that surging is awful!
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:47 PM   #70215
badweatherbiker
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: North Florida
Oddometer: 693
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrprez View Post
Totally stock '04 DR with just over 6000 miles. A bit rough cosmetically but will be the base for an ADV style bike. Let the farkeling begin!

That doesn't look rough from here, nice buy! I really like mine as long as I can get the surging to stop.
I need to post a pic but don't have a smugmug or anything.
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