V649HP-Kawasaki's new gravel runner

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

the 150, on average should be about .5" narrower and 1" taller, so if you can swing that increased radius, it might go.

if close, you should look up the spec sheet on the exact tire, they're all different.

The 160 on my bike is one of the narrowest available.I'll have to give the 150 a try.

[AnyTwoWheeler]

OK I am hooked. Going to start collecting parts for my own build. I took invintory of my parts pile and found I have a front end from a 92 YZ125 with I believe a 17mm axle and a slightly beat up DL650 front rim, also 17mm axle. My concern is the YZ forks won't be up to the task on the heavery Versus, even if built up.

Anyone have any thoughts? Find a better front end or try to build up the old YZ forks ?

Like most cost is a concern but I am OK with spending some if its for a good cause.

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by AnyTwoWheeler

OK I am hooked. Going to start collecting parts for my own build. I took invintory of my parts pile and found I have a front end from a 92 YZ125 with I believe a 17mm axle and a slightly beat up DL650 front rim, also 17mm axle. My concern is the YZ forks won't be up to the task on the heavery Versus, even if built up.

Anyone have any thoughts? Find a better front end or try to build up the old YZ forks ?

Like most cost is a concern but I am OK with spending some if its for a good cause.

if you have a usable DL650 wheel, you've found gold in your parts bin. the DL650 wheel uses a 17mm x 40mm x 12mm bearing, so it's best mated to forks that use a 17mm axle. check your YZ forks, many from that era used a 15mm axle. if going to the trouble to fit long travel USD forks to your bike, i would be looking at forks with minimum 46mm inners, and more likely, 48mm.

plenty of reading in a good selection of build threads on the forum, so by the time you get through those, you'll have a good handle on the issues

[AnyTwoWheeler]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

if you have a usable DL650 wheel, you've found gold in your parts bin. the DL650 wheel uses a 17mm x 40mm x 12mm bearing, so it's best mated to forks that use a 17mm axle. check your YZ forks, many from that era used a 15mm axle. if going to the trouble to fit long travel USD forks to your bike, i would be looking at forks with minimum 46mm inners, and more likely, 48mm.

plenty of reading in a good selection of build threads on the forum, so by the time you get through those, you'll have a good handle on the issues

Thanks for the info. I am missing the axle for those forks but a few websites claim the 92 was the start of the 17mm axles for the YZs. Unfortunately I don't think they are the way to go and you cemented that with your thoughts.

The DL650 wheel is a little beat up but good enough for what I need right now.

Been reading all night on things, just need to pick a path now. Thanks for your detailed write up, it was an awesome read!

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by AnyTwoWheeler

Thanks for the info. I am missing the axle for those forks but a few websites claim the 92 was the start of the 17mm axles for the YZs. Unfortunately I don't think they are the way to go and you cemented that with your thoughts.

The DL650 wheel is a little beat up but good enough for what I need right now.

Been reading all night on things, just need to pick a path now. Thanks for your detailed write up, it was an awesome read!

any questions, just ask.

a little reminder, it's tough to find a 20x40x12 bearing to fit a DL650 wheel if you wanted forks which use a 20mm axle, and even if you did, i'm not sure how rugged it would be for use as a wheel bearing.

[AnyTwoWheeler]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

any questions, just ask.

Only question right now is how to be patient trying to find a decent donor bike!


I agree the 17mm axle is not idea but a machinist friend seems to think he can make a different bearing work if needed. We will see if I go that route or find something different.

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by AnyTwoWheeler

Only question right now is how to be patient trying to find a decent donor bike!


I agree the 17mm axle is not idea but a machinist friend seems to think he can make a different bearing work if needed. We will see if I go that route or find something different.

if you use google to poke around the bike forums when researching alternatives to this bearing, you'll find plenty of discussion on machining the bearing recess to accept a different bearing/seal. been done, but it takes the right man with the right equipment for the right price.

there was a set of used Dl1000 wheels for sale in the ADV flea recently if anyone wanted matching three spoke cast wheels in 19/17 for their build. don't know if they were sold or not.

there are still many people who don't think cast wheels should be the choice for these bike builds, but these wheels work great if you're building a gravel runner. just home late yesterday after after a 1400 mile ride through northwest Virginia, western Maryland, and eastern West Virginia with hundreds and hundreds of miles of gravel roads, some very rough 4x4 only conditions and the V649HP ran flawlessly, cast wheels and all. slab home at 80+mph cruise, try that on a 650 thumper loaded down with gear.

[OHjim]

JD - You are in and travel in 2 of the top 10 states (VA and WV): http://www.statefarm.com/aboutus/_pr...inia-again.asp

Oh deer! er . . . ah . . . dear!

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by OHjim

JD - You are in and travel in 2 of the top 10 states (VA and WV)...

saw deer this trip, but it wasn't as bad as this spring when it seemed like a hundred per hour on the back roads.

traveling a wide area like last week, it's interesting to see very different color on the deer, with deer in one area very dark charcoal gray, while deer in another area are sandy brown.

[jdrocks]

pulled the bike apart for a checkup and scheduled maintenance, like an overdue valve check.



i'm going to need to design a new fender assembly for the rear, the OEM plastic does not hold up to a continued pounding on the gravel roads.

[kajj]

i'm going to need to design a new fender assembly for the rear, the OEM plastic does not hold up to a continued pounding on the gravel roads.

I have thought about that to. I have also wondered if it would be possible to fabricate a small aux gas tank at that space
to hold a few extra liters of gas. I haven`t looked in to it yet, just thinking about it. What do you think?

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by kajj

I have thought about that to. I have also wondered if it would be possible to fabricate a small aux gas tank at that space
to hold a few extra liters of gas. I haven`t looked in to it yet, just thinking about it. What do you think?

i'm already carrying an extra 2L, and i can only think of 4-5 roads in all of NA where the range with the fuel on the bike wouldn't be enough. if i planned another trip on those roads, i have a 12L fuel bladder, so i just need a new tail/fender assembly, no fuel. hard to believe there are still roads over here where you might need 600km range.

i already have a design and parts, i just need the time to get going on it.

[rw4x4van]

Originally Posted by jdrocks

i'm already carrying an extra 2L, and i can only think of 4-5 roads in all of NA where the range with the fuel on the bike wouldn't be enough. if i planned another trip on those roads, i have a 12L fuel bladder, so i just need a new tail/fender assembly, no fuel. hard to believe there are still roads over here where you might need 600km range.

i already have a design and parts, i just need the time to get going on it.

JD do you have any large photos posted anywhere that we can view ......

[jdrocks]

Originally Posted by rw4x4van

JD do you have any large photos posted anywhere that we can view ......

large photos of...what? fuel containers?

if ya need something specific, i can try to get a photo.

[jdrocks]

when i said the OEM fender assembly isn't up to the pounding it gets on rough gravel roads, here's why.

the left and right seat covers are connected to the tail light with plastic dowel tabs that slide into rubber grommets on each side of the tail light. these eventually shear off because the assembly flexes too much.



the dowels are supposed to slide into these grommets.



when the dowels break, pairs of plastic tabs on the bottom of the seat covers have to carry more load, and eventually these break too.

broken tab on the seat cover



all the plastic pieces around the tail light have to be securely anchored so that the plastic trim piece over the top of the tail light aligns with it's own tabs, impossible with all the other broken tabs and dowels.



so the dowels break, the tabs break, the trim won't fit, and the whole freakin' mess starts lookin' like it's going to crack in half after just one more rough road.

time for something new.