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Old 10-16-2012, 05:41 AM   #13396
Spad
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No pics yet (taken but not postable), but the engine is out of the bike on the way to pulling the shift drum and crank. No drama, other than some stuck mount locknuts. Propane wrench made a big difference as did a 6-point socket instead of 12-point. Cracking into the engine comes next. Those locknuts are use once and toss, right? And thanks for the above discussion of the sprocket circlip - I was wondering why it had to be tossed, too.

The Clymer manual has proven more useful than the Suzuki service manual but both are great to have along with this thread and Maximum Suzuki. Thanks for the help.

- Spad
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:54 AM   #13397
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[QUOTE=KneeKicker;19825243]I have a 99se model ,I guess the rear shock really isnt that bad I need to mess around with adjustments more.
[QUOTE]

If you have a 99se then that means you have the cartridge showa forks. Those are pretty sweet forks. Most would not upgrade those forks. If you do want to swap fork, those 98/99s would fetch a pretty penny.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:27 PM   #13398
duncanbojangles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
You really want to know what it will take to mount a 98 RM fork on our bike. Fork, triple, front wheel, axle, brake caliper, donner dirt DR350 steering stem (though I hear all balls makes an adpator) , DRZ400 headlight mounting bracket. I still do not have a dash, speedo, tach, indicators. My ignition is tape to the handle bars, no front brake hose guide, and my turn singlas are mounts on two rectangular chuncks of aluminum. And though I can mount the stock head light and cowl, it is not quite in the right spot. The headlight is sunken into the cowl. When riding at night there is alot of light that "leaks" out on the inside of the cowl. It is blinding.
I also had the light leak on my bike, though it was just because the little bit of foam that goes around the headlight had rotted out. I was thinking of cutting a nice piece of foam to fill the gap, but I needed a quick fix so I just stuffed a shop rag in the gap. It works so well that I've never replaced it! And, when I spill a little fuel at the gas station, need to clean the dipstick to check my oil, or wipe the dew from the seat, I've got a handy rag nearby to do it!
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:24 AM   #13399
ilprincipe
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Pumper carb

I am torn between which pumper carb to get. I am ordering a few things from oemcycle anyways, and am considering adding a TM33 to the order, but then all the parts needed for setting it up on a '93 S model would be missing (Kientech doesn't ship outside of the US anymore). Which other parts would I need to get to set it up?

The other, more expensive option is to get a TM36 kit including everything needed to set it up on the DR350S from a local supplier. The TM36 is much more common here in Europe, few people seem to get the TM33 and it is not readily available. I have read some comments that the TM36 is harder to set up properly. My bike is bone stock so far. Not sure which size would be better/preferred. Any recommendations?
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:42 AM   #13400
MrPulldown
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There are two different kinds of TM33. One is just a flat side carb with no pumper. This is NOT the one you want
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Geniu...1abffa&vxp=mtr

This is the one for our bikes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-TM33-...d14348&vxp=mtr

You don't even need a TM series of pumper carb. If it is that hard to get you can also use the FCR (?) carbs off of more modern bikes. The problem is you will have to figure out all the adapting and jetting yourself. That is why people use the TM33 because there is a known "formula" to make these things fit.

First you will need the engine to carb boot, the ones supplied for the CV carb is different. The diameter and the locating notches are different. I can pull up a picture of the two if need. Search and compare your boot to pics on e-bay long enough and you can figure it out.

You do not have the electric start so you do not need the 1/4 inch aluminum spacer.

The carb to airbox boot is also different. Either get the right dirt model boot or make a spacer. You can cut one from a 2 inch PVC pipe. If you use schduale 40 it is too big and will need to take a notch out of it. Seals good enough, or use a dab of RTV on final instalation. I think the thick sch 80 is the right fit. The only PITA is that hardware stores typically will only sell you a 10 foot section and not be so keen as to let you cut a .5 inch sliver off the end.

The cable is routed on the "other" side. The pumper takes more cable pull to reach WOT. You can mod the throttle housing at the handlebar clamp. Open up the bar clamp and shave 2 funny hairs width off the stops, you don't need much, and there is not much extra material to work with.

If you are totally stock the stock jetting should work 127.5 main, and 32.5 pilot. Double check me on this as this is from memory. The early year rich jetting will probably work to 132.5 main same pilot.

There you go : the Formula!!
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:19 PM   #13401
ilprincipe
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thanks for the wealth of info! I'll report back once I have everything installed. Hopefully with a picture of the Swiss Alps in the background if the weather still allows it.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:45 PM   #13402
shearboy2004
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Quote:
If it is that hard to get you can also use the FCR (?) carbs off of more modern bikes.
I would love to use one , in fact have one sitting here but noway can I get it to fit with the electric start . With my bike being bored out to 450 I just know it needs a bigger carb , I have tried every jet combination and it runs fantastic all the way up till wide open and then there is a stumble , it's not a huge concern because I seldom use wide open but it would be nice to have it run out clean .
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:52 AM   #13403
LawlerClan
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New owner - starting question

Picked up a 1992 DR350S in great condition and for a good price. Super clean bike. I knew it was kickstart only and a bit tall for my short self but nothing I can't work around. Owner started it easily on the first kick while I was there but I have not been having any luck.

I went through the thread, read and tried about the decompression lever in, push kick start until it pops out etc and no luck. Doesn't even cough.

I have noticed that even after the decompression lever pops out, sometimes I can still push the kickstart lever easily like the lever is still releasing compression. Is that normal? I have decent but weak (to me spark) battery is fully charged, everything looks good. Plug color is good and not wet - although I am wondering if it is getting fuel. Kickstart switch is up.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, looking for lowering links and short kickstand if anyone has them.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:00 AM   #13404
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LawlerClan View Post
Picked up a 1992 DR350S in great condition and for a good price. Super clean bike. I knew it was kickstart only and a bit tall for my short self but nothing I can't work around. Owner started it easily on the first kick while I was there but I have not been having any luck.

I went through the thread, read and tried about the decompression lever in, push kick start until it pops out etc and no luck. Doesn't even cough.

I have noticed that even after the decompression lever pops out, sometimes I can still push the kickstart lever easily like the lever is still releasing compression. Is that normal? I have decent but weak (to me spark) battery is fully charged, everything looks good. Plug color is good and not wet - although I am wondering if it is getting fuel. Kickstart switch is up.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, looking for lowering links and short kickstand if anyone has them.

Take that carb apart and give it a good bath in citric acid over night. If you can't find any citric acid, use kool-aid (same thing). Also check to see if your decomp lever isn't stuck open.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:36 AM   #13405
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LawlerClan View Post
Picked up a 1992 DR350S in great condition and for a good price. Super clean bike. I knew it was kickstart only and a bit tall for my short self but nothing I can't work around. Owner started it easily on the first kick while I was there but I have not been having any luck.

I went through the thread, read and tried about the decompression lever in, push kick start until it pops out etc and no luck. Doesn't even cough.

I have noticed that even after the decompression lever pops out, sometimes I can still push the kickstart lever easily like the lever is still releasing compression. Is that normal? I have decent but weak (to me spark) battery is fully charged, everything looks good. Plug color is good and not wet - although I am wondering if it is getting fuel. Kickstart switch is up.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, looking for lowering links and short kickstand if anyone has them.
Not to insult if you already know/have done. But here are some things that have kept the bike from starting for me.
-Key on. Run/Stop stwich to run.
-Choke on.
-gas to prime in case the carb bowl is empty. Gas in tank.
-bike in nuetral, to make sure kickstand safety is not tripped
-Clutch in to make sure clutch start safety is not tripped
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:19 PM   #13406
LawlerClan
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still trying

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Not to insult if you already know/have done. But here are some things that have kept the bike from starting for me.
-Key on. Run/Stop stwich to run.
-Choke on.
-gas to prime in case the carb bowl is empty. Gas in tank.
-bike in nuetral, to make sure kickstand safety is not tripped
-Clutch in to make sure clutch start safety is not tripped
Nope, not insulted at all.

Did everything you suggested but need to check the gas to the carb. Tank is full of fresh gas and it was run Sunday so figured fuel was not the problem. Ran smooth and the PO started it right up. He was the original owner and about 8 inches taller so probably had an advantage in both kicking ability and havign the technique down.

Suggestions on how to prime?
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:39 PM   #13407
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probably not a gas issue, but jsut flip the vacume accuated petcock to the prime position.

Play around with the throttle postion. Some say a small blip at the right time help, others go WOT.

I do not have a kick start DR so I really don't know. I am building a kick start DR right now. Hear some stories of needing a million kicks to get the bike started. Might try bump starting it down the street.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:19 PM   #13408
Wadester
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As the owner of a '92 S model, I can say:

Priming - usually 4 quick kicks while holding the compression release down, then slow kick til release pops up, then kick it like you mean it. Even on a 60 degree morning after sitting a few days, a few hard kicks from release pops up have done it. (3rd seems to be the magic number)

If it isn't wanting to start - you either have no gas in the carb, or you need to flush out the bowl because there is debris getting sucked into the jets.

Debris in the bowl also seems to cause poor idle/dies at takeoff. I'm working on putting in a filter to slow this debris down, but opening the bowl drain periodically is easy and beneficial.

I note that I have an Acerbis tank (and petcocks), so when the gas is on - it's on. And I know that my tank isn't rusting since it's plastic - but I can see the rustdust down in the bottom of the white tank easily. No extra charge from the station.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:34 PM   #13409
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Kick it like you mean it
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:03 PM   #13410
watchmen
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Does anyone know exactly where what notch the clutch arm is supposed to be at? I just put new plates in my clutch (And thrust washers since I rode it last) I can't seem to figure out where the arm itself is supposed to be, it isn't in the manual. Any help would be great. I am super excited to ride it again, its been a year since I rode the bike last. Hopefully all that will fix the terrible first gear creeping problem I had in the past.
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