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Old 10-20-2012, 02:34 AM   #6016
Evil Invader
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Hell-sing-land, Sweden
Oddometer: 690
I say Michelin Des. Expensive, but a good one. Ever looked at Mitas?
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:16 AM   #6017
SKINNY
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Joined: Jul 2001
Location: West Texas
Oddometer: 645
Bridgestone ED 78 rear / Maxxis Desert IT front
Works very well in hard/ rocky desert stuff
Great in sand...
Readily available and cheaper than Motoz/Michelin
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:17 AM   #6018
Tootega
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Northern Ireland
Oddometer: 8
Mitas

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Invader View Post
I say Michelin Des. Expensive, but a good one. Ever looked at Mitas?
MITAS work well for me. Ive used the EF07 and the CO2 do.t with 18mm knobs on the rear. The best value for lots of pavement/rocky is the Army tyre.
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:37 AM   #6019
karinjtimoyht
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i do not have an ignition switch itself
Just two kill switches One kills all power and the other is just an engaine kill
my well have a look at the switches
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:57 AM   #6020
blakrj
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Location: Cloggland via Borneo, TX, UK, Oz and S.Africa
Oddometer: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Invader View Post
I say Michelin Des. Expensive, but a good one. Ever looked at Mitas?
+1. A lot of Dakar pedigree on the Michelin Desert. Isn't the HP4 a motocross tyre? How long did it last?
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:47 AM   #6021
The Letter J
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Oddometer: 972
Quote:
Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
+1. A lot of Dakar pedigree on the Michelin Desert. Isn't the HP4 a motocross tyre? How long did it last?
Yes the HP4 is a MX tire specifically for extremely hard packed "blue-groove" but the funny thing is that it lasted longer than all the other fronts I ran (~2500 miles before cupping enough to dismount.) I still have that tire on the shelf and had thought about remounting it in the other direction to see if it squares back up... realistically it will just be a spare for one of my tightwad friends!

I may still try the michelin desert just so I won't always have to wonder how it works. It can't be worse than the motoz s/t that's on the front now (fingers crossed!) I do wonder if it is very narrow like the "90width" michelin m12 (measures closer to 80mm) I have or if it is a wider carcass like the "90width" michelin HP4 (measures closer to 95mm), it sure would be nice if they would standardize!
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:52 AM   #6022
Uller
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, WA
Oddometer: 1,676
I am really liking the Pirelli Scorpion Rally
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:42 AM   #6023
Biped
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Oregon, Wet Side
Oddometer: 327
I've been running the Scorion Pro for several years now, but our soil is a little more moist up here. I average 1200 miles per tire, 70% dirt.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:03 PM   #6024
The Letter J
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Location: Santa Maria, CA
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that scorpion rally is actually looking like a good option... I think I'll order one! Thanks Uller!
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:27 PM   #6025
MFS
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Prairies...
Oddometer: 223
Denial is over...

So I'm ripping apart all my wiring this weekend. I've taped up 3 bared wires already, checked the plug, pump works but 2010 KTM 690 R = No Start. Haven't checked the side stand switch, forgot all bout that one, but highly doubt it.

Going to cut/splice the bared wires proper, and take every wire off and look at each connection. Gotta be something there? Battery is charged, and looking at the wires something had to give somewhere, although I just haven't seen it yet.


Arrghhh, at least I'll be confident in identifying future problems anyway! Run Baby Run!!!

MFS
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:03 PM   #6026
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: In the mountains?
Oddometer: 1,680
Quote:
Originally Posted by MFS View Post
So I'm ripping apart all my wiring this weekend. I've taped up 3 bared wires already, checked the plug, pump works but 2010 KTM 690 R = No Start. Haven't checked the side stand switch, forgot all bout that one, but highly doubt it.

Going to cut/splice the bared wires proper, and take every wire off and look at each connection. Gotta be something there? Battery is charged, and looking at the wires something had to give somewhere, although I just haven't seen it yet.


Arrghhh, at least I'll be confident in identifying future problems anyway! Run Baby Run!!!

MFS
Have you tried to troubleshoot? Test points to find where the problem might be?
Is your battery dead?
Does the bike turn over?
Does the starter relay get power?
Does the starter motor get power?
Does the starter button get power?
Are all your fuses good?

I'm not trying to be a dick.. I would try to narrow things down before you tear into your wiring. (although bare wire is a good indication.)
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:30 PM   #6027
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
that scorpion rally is actually looking like a good option... I think I'll order one! Thanks Uller!
Can't let a tire thread die. I'm using Michlen T63. Cheap (under $130 front and rear, ship free from Motorcycle Superstore). Works well for me.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #6028
daveknievel
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Doylestown PA
Oddometer: 676


Cracked 3/4 of the way round. Replaced lower tank bushings last year. Now this shit. Got it welded, we'll see how long it lasts.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:36 PM   #6029
MFS
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Prairies...
Oddometer: 223
Hey there RoninMoto,

My electric ability is limited unfortunatley, but the starter turns, I've had the plug out and she sparks when starter button is hit.
All fuses good, and she pumps gas, can smell er if I crank long enough.
Poor battery is on the charger, the past week has worn er out...

The wiring was a noticeable (ie visual) flaw, and confirming there are no other poor ones, and check my connections.

2 more items...

-The side stand switch, how does that work exactly? (too rule out any fault) If figured there would be a contact point down there that would "switch" it on or off, but the way it looks is it a magnetic gizmo of sorts? The wire ends in what looks to be a black box or housing, with 2 screw heads. It looks intact, is it adjustable in some way?

Clutch
Thought I'd try starting it in gear, out of gear, and when I had it in gear, with clutch in the bike lurched forward on me when I hit the start button. This could mean what in realation to not starting??

I can mess with this all day, in the end it'll be blind luck if it runs again cause of me. I do not have the capability to try a remap, once battery is charged tomorrow and I have the wiring reconnected I'll maybe pull the pump and have a look.

I do like and enjoy the process, but do realize my limitations when it comes to electrical

That all said, Ronin I've followed your RR since you hit Canada. No way your trying to be a dick, all your "wiseguy" comments have problably been used up on a certain .01 percent of the Irish...
That said, be safe on your travels!


Any comments, or suggestions from any and all are welcome. It'll be headed back to a non-KTM shop next week, but the more I figure out on my own, the better. They did a valve check, (without making an adjustment,all good) for me and dropped it off. Didn't run right and now has stopped. Could be as simple as them pressure washing it to hard in the wrong spot (cause the bike came back CLEAN), or maybe starting it before the gauges did there "sweep" and messed up FI timing? Won't start regardless

Fruuustraaateeddd Innncoorrpaaraatteeddd...


MFS
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:43 PM   #6030
Engineer John
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Location: New Bunswick Canada
Oddometer: 21
Weld

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveknievel View Post


Cracked 3/4 of the way round. Replaced lower tank bushings last year. Now this shit. Got it welded, we'll see how long it lasts.
Looks like the weld on the bracket was a little cold and the crack started there. Welding thin metal with wirefeed (MIG) there is a tendency to turn down the current and you get a big bead. This big change in thickness is a perfect place to start a crack.
The weld on the flange looks much nicer, looks like TIG. I'd grind down the bracket weld to almost nothing and get the repair done with TIG.

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