ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-30-2012, 05:32 PM   #196
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
One Less Harley's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Oddometer: 4,578
Here's a link to a breather hose I made up, it'll give you some ideas...at least how to improve on it anyway.

__________________
2004 BMW R1150RS
1984 BMW R80G/S
(wrenching index)
2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S (TAT Prep)
One More DRZ does the TAT (Ride Report)

One Less Harley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 01:05 PM   #197
x3300 OP
geoff
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 170
Shaft Saga

Over the past month I've been plagued with a lot of drive shaft problems.

When I had welded the extension into the shaft I noticed what looked like some inclusions in one of the welds, but left the repair for later. I decided to take care of that a few weeks ago. I ground out the inclusions with an angle grinder using the edge of the disk. I felt like a dentist working on a tooth. Once I got all the bad parts out I welded up the voids and ground off the excess. To stress relieve the weld joint I heated it to a dull red with a torch then covered the shaft with rags to cool slowly.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/inclusion.jpg

Here's the setup I used to check the alignment.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/shaft-check.jpg

The other extension weld looked OK, so I thought I was done with the drive shaft and had a confident feeling about it...

Before my trip to Hollister Hills I tried to do a wheelie over a speed bump to impress onlookers. It ended badly, and needed to bring the bike home in the truck. Here's what I found when I took it apart.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/broke.jpg

The break was at the other weld that had looked OK. There wasn't much weld penetration, and the crack seems to have started at some inclusions below the surface. As I had mentioned, I decided I didn't like the method of using a pin to align the shaft for welding because I thought the hole for the pin could trap air or machining oil that would contaminate the weld and lead to inclusions. I had used a narrow square butt joint for the weld, and I thought I would get sufficient penetration with it.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/break.jpg

For the repair I made up this fixture. To get perfect alignment of the V-grooves I finished them with a single pass on a mill.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/fixture.jpg

Here's the shaft in the fixture. I ground the ends to make a V butt weld joint this time.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/v-joint.jpg

I did the weld, more carefully than usual, removed the excess, stress relieved the weld and aligned the shaft and once again thought I was done with the drive shaft...

After coming back from my shake-down ride at Hollister Hills I noticed a clicking sound from inside the swing arm when I moved the bike around. On taking it apart I found one of the welds on the U-joint caps had broken and the cap was coming out of the yoke. I could also see scrape marks on the top inside of the swing arm where something was hitting.

I don't think the torque through the joint was the cause, but more that the swing arm was going beyond its intended limit while bottoming and putting a large downward force on the yoke when the yoke and swing arm came into contact, and this force is what broke the weld and pushed the cap out. I had noticed before that the yoke clearance was very tight when the shock was fully compressed, and I now think there is deflection in the frame or other parts that is allowing the swing arm to more than expected in relationship to the transmission output flange.

I re-set the cap and put a new tack weld on it. While I had the shaft out I also decided to clean up the two extension welds. As can be seen on the far right of this view the weld is under cut is some places, and also has a few stray grind marks around it. I laid new weld beads over all the bad parts. To finish the shaft this time I did the stress relief, aligned it, then turned and polished the shaft on a lathe to get a smooth finish.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/joint.jpg

I also decided to make a spacer for the coupler spring to stiffen up the damper. I had a few pieces of 5 mm thick 6061-T4 aluminum scrap I cut out the spacer from.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/spacer.jpg

Here's how the spacer looks in the assembled shaft. This view also shows the polished weld.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/spacer-installed.jpg

To limit the shock travel I made a 3 mm aluminum spacer to put under the rubber bumper of the shock. I didn't take a photo of it though. Because the swing arm is at such an angle I need to jack the back end up to add the swing arm oil.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/54-shaft-saga/fill.jpg

I fixed up the other shake-down problems and I took the bike down to Hollister Hills again for another shake-down. I tried to ride it hard to get things to break, but just found a few minor things not worth reporting.



-x3300

x3300 screwed with this post 10-07-2012 at 01:30 PM Reason: Resize video.
x3300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 01:41 PM   #198
Prutser
Studly Adventurer
 
Prutser's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: The Dutch swamp
Oddometer: 853
What an AMAZING video !

Lot of respect for your build skills.
__________________
BMW R100'91/R80'93/R75/6 R80ST'83/R65GS'87/GasGasTXT300/DouglasW20-1920


R100GS'91 (sold)
Prutser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 02:08 PM   #199
Clay Spinner
Woodfire or Bust
 
Clay Spinner's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Nova Scotia
Oddometer: 578
What a fun looking ride! Well done with all the mods as well... a real accomplishment!
Clay Spinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 04:03 PM   #200
LukasM
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,330
So you've got bike building, metal working and riding skills... Not that's a good combination!!

Really enjoyed reading this thread, thanks for posting.
__________________
RTW trip blog: https://www.facebook.com/AroundTheWorldWithLukasM
LukasM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 04:19 PM   #201
Zebedee
Studly Adventurer
 
Zebedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: ... I was born a ramblin' man
Oddometer: 754
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
So you've got bike building, metal working and riding skills...
... to the point that I suspect I'm not the only one who is extremely envious of any one of these talents individually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
... Really enjoyed reading this thread, thanks for posting.
+1 ... many thanks and congratulations on the quality of the build report.



John
__________________
The perverse must persevere
Zebedee is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2012, 09:43 PM   #202
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,927
really that is terrific. I want one!
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 04:52 AM   #203
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,686
Man, sorry about all of your driveshaft issues. But really glad you're sticking with it! Thanks for the video, looks like a great place to test your welds.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 09:23 AM   #204
Beater
Blinded by Science
 
Beater's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Oddometer: 2,884
SO! Those look good ...

Think you could make a couple more?



I would gladly supply the length, several more shafts ... What is your time and skill worth?

PS - Looking GREAT!!!!
__________________
Fred
'85 R80RT G/Sified <|> '91 R100GS Bumblebee (103K miles and climbing) <|> '73 R75/5 LWB
Airhead Zen: Ride - Repair - Ride - Maintain - Ride - Repeat
Beater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 02:14 PM   #205
blaine.hale
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post

I would gladly supply the length, several more shafts ... What is your time and skill worth?

PS - Looking GREAT!!!!
Fred, I don't think you need to supply the length of your shaft, man.
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650
blaine.hale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 02:43 PM   #206
Beater
Blinded by Science
 
Beater's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Oddometer: 2,884
I'm proud. I've got nothing to hide.
__________________
Fred
'85 R80RT G/Sified <|> '91 R100GS Bumblebee (103K miles and climbing) <|> '73 R75/5 LWB
Airhead Zen: Ride - Repair - Ride - Maintain - Ride - Repeat
Beater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 10:54 AM   #207
x3300 OP
geoff
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 170
D606s

After my first dirt ride I decided I should try some more aggressive tires. I had liked the D.O.T approved Dunlop D606 tires when I used them on my old XR650R, so put in an order for a 130/90-17 and 90/90-21 set.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/new.jpg

Heres how they compare to the partially used TKC-80s I took off.

The fronts.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/compare-front.jpg

The rears.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/compare-rear.jpg

I had met a guy once who was using IRC GP-110 tires on his R100GS, and he said that even though they were tube-type tires he was not using tubes with his tubeless GS rims, and that he often used tube-type tires without tubes and never had problems, so decided to try it with my D606s. Here's a photo of the IRC tires he was using.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/irc-gp-110

The D606s were stiffer than the TKC-80s, so were a little harder to mount. The hardest part was getting the bead to seal with the stiff front tire, but with some effort I could get them both filled and balanced. This is the info printed on the tires:

Code:
                 TKC-80 D606
front tread      2 ply  3 ply
front sidewall   2 ply  3 ply
rear tread       4 ply  3 ply
rear sidewall    2 ply  3 ply
And how they look in use. An aggressive looking tire for being D.O.T. approved for street use. I found 14 psi (.965 bar) rear and 16 psi (1.10 bar) front seems to work well off-road.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/d606-front.jpg

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/d606-rear.jpg

After some use I got a puncture in the rear. I had been carrying some Slime tire plugs, a plug tool, and a small tire pump with me just in case.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/plugs

Here's the plug after about 100 off-road miles. The Slime plugs worked well and can recommend them. I primed the puncture hole with rubber cement before inserting the plug.

http://stuff.gotdns.org/bike/orgs-build-up/55-d606/plug.jpg

I now have about 700 miles on the tires, most off-road, and the tube-type tires mounted without tubes on tube-less rims seem to be working OK.

-x3300
x3300 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2012, 10:58 AM   #208
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,927
I'm a big fan of those D606's. Agreed on all counts in your post, but I havent had occasion to put a hole in one, yet. I'm running tubes, an 18" in the rear 17" tire.

I get about 3-4K out of them, at the outside, but at under $100 each its a great all around tire.
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #209
kellymac530
motorcycle addict
 
kellymac530's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: so. cal.
Oddometer: 1,052
Just finished reading the whole thread today, every word, every reply.

1st- LOVE the build. Love the concept. Love the execution. Love the patience and attention to detail.

2nd- Love the D606 rear not so much the front. I am Stagehand on the wear, 3-4k depending on how hard I ride and what terrain I ride. Ocotillo rips tires up and so does Hi-desert, I get 3k . If I get somewhere more clayish or just easy riding I get closer to 4k. On the front I run the Dunlop D756 even tho it is not DOT. I have not been hassled about them yet. Here where I am at they want to see your current Registration, Proof of Insurance and your Sparky...tires have not been an issue yet and I have gotten better street wear and traction out of the D756s so I run that.

3rd- The only thing I would do much different would be the exhaust, but that is JUST ME. Your fit and finish is so awesome but that muffler looks a bit hodge podge. I think you will rework it once you make up some bags and bag mounts, so I have hope. I would do more of a megaphone starting right at the Y pipe and make a cone megaphone to the Supertrapp end diameter. Similar to the way they did them on the HPN Dakar bikes but not exactly.

Great thread, great build, great narration...thanks for sharing and I hope my 1 minor critique is not offensive.
__________________
it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission
kellymac530 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2012, 08:33 AM   #210
kellymac530
motorcycle addict
 
kellymac530's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: so. cal.
Oddometer: 1,052
BTW ther are a few fender options that might help with venting for the oil cooler but may still help keep at least some mud off of it here is one:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...nt-Fender.aspx

There are also these scoops, not sure if they direct it to your specific cooler location, but they might, or you could make a similar concept:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ADS-Scoop.aspx

For your more street based riding a super moto fender is a little less drag and less lift on the front and cuts down on that twitchy feel of a dirt bike front fender, this one is vented at the rear as well:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch

The vents have flat areas that catch some of the upflinging mud while letting air straigh thru, might be good for you.

Again LOVE the build and bike.
__________________
it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission
kellymac530 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014