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Old 10-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #6136
ghostman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post
Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...
The online fiche says that the decal is included on the lower radiator shrouds only and the price reflects that. Have you purchased the lower shroud without the decal. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:26 PM   #6137
ramjet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
ALL of those chemicals you just described will MELT the plastic - DO NOT USE THEM

And Id love to see what happens when he grabs some 80g sandpaper and shreds off the stickers. For delicate matters like sticker removal, you need to have finesse and patience. I would start with some 600 or 800 wet sandpaper and lightly remove the initial surface - this light sanding might also remove the embossed decal as well. What you really dont want to happen is create a scratch in the plastic underneath the decal. Then you have to use aforementioned Plastic Renew - which never replicates the original look of the plastic, but more of a clear coated plastic that scratches far easier than the plastic itself.

If you do happen to get the stickers off - remove the residual glue off with cleaners that are specifically designed to do so. GooGone is a great choice in this situation, 3M also makes a nice remover as well

I would avoid this scenario all together and stop being a cheapskate - BUY some new plastic and put the stock stuff in storage.
I've done alot of plastic refinishing and agree with the warnings above but if you want to go this route, work in a small spot and above all wear protective gear. Gloves and organic vapor respirator working with massive ventilation. If working indoors with lacquer thinner, mek, methylene chloride use only enclosed gear with dedicated air supply. These are seriously health danger chemicals and not to be underestimated. I have this gear. If you don't, please reconsider cost vs reward. The plastic melters will alter the surface and then evaporate. Your fender will not turn into a puddle at your feet. Wipe with thin film repeat. I've found chemical process leaves less work than sanding. Plastic renew with 4 coats. I swear by that stuff. It is to restore the high gloss not a protective coat. Don't be afraid to use whatever grit you want, you will just have to do more work with progressively finer grits. Start with 200. Go lower if needed. I finish with 1000 then plastic renew. Also I use wet/dry paper wet.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:18 PM   #6138
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:42 PM   #6139
Mini Trail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
What you will need:
-A set of calipers for measuring the shim you remove.
-a shim kit About the same price as 1 hour of shop time at your local KTM shop?
-strong magnet (easiest way to remove the shims, like you use when you drop a socket into a motor and have to fish it out)
-Feeler gauge.
Amazon had the shim kit for $54.00 & Free shipping from powersport superstore. Woot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #6140
offworlder
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690 headlight burning out ?

Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #6141
ghostridergary
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Home made mapping switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harty View Post
Anyone got a good link for a supplier of Mapping Switch that I can mount on my bars for my 2011 690E. Am UK based as well.

Cheers
Hi Harty

I made this one for about 10 (bit of simple soldering) for my 2008e - cable tied near handlebars - still have to cycle ignition on and off though

Credit to this bloke..... http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/technical-...-selector.html

Cheers
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #6142
Roadracer_Al
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Have a look at the regulator, loose grounds, intermittent shorts - look specifically for rubbed insulation. The latter two can cause voltage spikes.

a

Quote:
Originally Posted by offworlder View Post
Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:00 AM   #6143
crankshaft OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyTaco View Post


Hey Taco, can you post this in the Supermega690 thread?
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:24 AM   #6144
LukasM
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I have heard that the ride-by-wire system is coming to the 690 Enduro models in 2013, can anybody confirm or deny that?

Here is some more info for those that have no idea what I'm talking about:

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
No it's not. The 690 models (except the 2012 Duke) until now have a mechanical throttle cable that can be overriden by the EPT computer through a solenoid that controls the throttle butterfly. It sits on the right of the butterfly shaft in this picture:





The 2012 Duke 690 uses a true fly-by-wire system, or ride-by-wire as KTM calls it, so there is no mechanical connection there any more.




This is what the throttle grip looks like, it has a spring inside to mimick the feel of a regular throttle pull:




This system does of course offer some benefits because the computer can decide when it's a good idea to give it some more gas - e.g. when starting the bike etc - but at the same time it complicates things further.

IMO - great on a 690 Duke that I ride around town, not so great on a 690 Enduro (R) that I'm taking out into the boonies.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:06 AM   #6145
MeinMotorrad
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Fly by Wire

/\

Take that spring out and you've got cruise control
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:52 AM   #6146
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini Trail View Post
Amazon had the shim kit for $54.00 & Free shipping from powersport superstore. Woot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
Good price.
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:23 PM   #6147
offworlder
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Originally Posted by offworlder
Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Have a look at the regulator, loose grounds, intermittent shorts - look specifically for rubbed insulation. The latter two can cause voltage spikes.a

Seems strange that the parking light, signals, etc... are all fine (as they use the same fuse as the headlight)....
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:00 PM   #6148
MFS
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Headlight

Not to be a guy who responds with an immediatley negative comment, and then post what may be an unreasonable solution but my thoughts..

Stock headlight is garbage, and useless. Had mine for 3 years, but never rode at night, this summer I started too, and realized it for the hazard it was. Too easy to get over your head with a light that's only good for 40 kms per hour or so...
I went through 2 bulbs myself, and rather quickly although I just wrote it off as poor judgement by KTM by putting a bulb and system in the bike that is not "quality", and is there strictly for show.

That's the negative..

The solution?

For my was the Lynx kit from Britannia Composites. Great (awesome) lighting and a functional, adjustable windscreen all in one. It costs money, but allows you to ride at night with confidence, to see better, and to be seen better as well by oncoming.

My opinion is forget the stock light, I'm not "hardcore" by any stretch of the imagination, but the stock light agreeably cannot be used for evening riding, to dim, hard to make out hazards on the flattest of surfaces.

Big Money to spend on the 690 to purchase for most, including me which was why I sat in denial so long and did multiple 2500 km trips with a stock 690. Don't wait like me, look for improved, reliable lighting (Lynx is my vote for value, service, look, fit and finish!) But there are other options. Money well spent, and will open you up to many more riding opportunities!

Even pavement riding will kill the filament in the bulbs used in the stock housing, let alone the shake rattle and roll of even the mildest offroad methinks.

Of course, this is advice from the guy who still hasn't chased down his own gremlin with the stalling, but snow and an unheated garage has dimmed my interest and my wits of late

MFS
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:10 PM   #6149
offworlder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFS View Post
Stock headlight is garbage, and useless. Had mine for 3 years, but never rode at night, this summer I started too, and realized it for the hazard it was. Too easy to get over your head with a light that's only good for 40 kms per hour or so...
I went through 2 bulbs myself, and rather quickly although I just wrote it off as poor judgement by KTM by putting a bulb and system in the bike that is not "quality", and is there strictly for show.

The solution?

For my was the Lynx kit from Britannia Composites. Great (awesome) lighting and a functional, adjustable windscreen all in one. It costs money, but allows you to ride at night with confidence, to see better, and to be seen better as well by oncoming.
MFS
Agree that the stocker sucks (2012 is supposed to be better, similar to the 08 "E"), but I digress. I do know Ian (Brittania composites), and the Lynx is a great product.

Nonetheless, while I may go with a 3rd party lighting system at some point, I dont ride at night, and simply want to figure out why the stocker is shorting....

Thanks.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:44 AM   #6150
Buzztail
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The light on my 08E is MUCH better than that borrowed light from the RFS bikes they used between 09 and 11.

A couple aux LEDs and you're turning the night into day with low amp draw
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