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Old 10-28-2012, 04:08 PM   #31216
Ginger Beard
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Sunny Northern Cuba (aka: South Florida)
Oddometer: 6,370
I have a buddy looking at an 08' wr250r with a few mods:

FMF Q w/ power bomb header
FMF tuner
Zeta fender eliminator
Zeta hand guards
Dunlop 606 w/ roughly 500 miles
Moose skid plate

The bike has roughly 12k on the clock but the guy has all maintenance receipts and looks to be in good cosmetic condition.

My question is does $3400 seem to be a reasonable price for this bike ?

He has been looking for a used WR for some time now and very few have come up in FL. This is the first with a price below $4500. He's hot to pull the trigger but I don't want him getting taken.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:27 PM   #31217
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Beard View Post
I have a buddy looking at an 08' wr250r with a few mods:

FMF Q w/ power bomb header
FMF tuner
Zeta fender eliminator
Zeta hand guards
Dunlop 606 w/ roughly 500 miles
Moose skid plate

The bike has roughly 12k on the clock but the guy has all maintenance receipts and looks to be in good cosmetic condition.

My question is does $3400 seem to be a reasonable price for this bike ?

He has been looking for a used WR for some time now and very few have come up in FL. This is the first with a price below $4500. He's hot to pull the trigger but I don't want him getting taken.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Disclaimer: I own a DR650 and have only done extensive research on the WR250R. I also live in Florida.

The WR can easily do 50k or more miles if its well taken care of. A good thing is some of the expensive farkles are already done, so its pretty much buy and ride for 3400- not bad. I guess the only thing to be wary of is how well the bike has been maintained (which is excellent as youve explained) and how hard its been ridden (and crashed). Seems the guy prolly rides it hard with the type of farkles he has, but not necessarily.

Id say take it to a Yammie dealer and have them do a compression check and a general lookover before buying- you would pay for this yourself of course. Ive been keeping my eyes open for a WR and I have not found one for under 4500, even with more miles than that, ANYWHERE, let alone Florida. If the compression is alright and it only needs a few things, id say go for it. Well see what other inmates think

If your bud decides not to, send me a PM (or post here) and I might consider it myself

Good luck..

**EDIT** Some 08 models have had fuel pumps fail; unless he has replaced it, id go ahead and set aside a few hundred for a new one as insurance
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:42 PM   #31218
what broke now
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Location: seattle
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Here's one in my area:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mcy/3368917225.html

The engines are tough and reliable. Unless it had been sunk in saltwater, or drowned in a creek while running, it's prob. fine. OEM airfilters rock, if it had aftermkt, I would def get a compression test, and it's a good idea anyway as said above.
It's hard to hide crash damage on aluminum parts, swing arm, forks, rims, exhaust, plastics,etc. Look at the swing arm chain guide for erosion, ask about fuel pump, etc.

I hate to think what my poor '08 is worth after tons of singletrack crashes, loop outs, boulder collisions, etc. It runs good., and I keep it mech. together, but... time to relegate it to gravel and 2 track only.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:45 PM   #31219
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
Here's one in my area:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mcy/3368917225.html

The engines are tough and reliable. Unless it had been sunk in saltwater, or drowned in a creek while running, it's prob. fine. OEM airfilters rock, if it had aftermkt, I would def get a compression test, and it's a good idea anyway as said above.
It's hard to hide crash damage on aluminum parts, swing arm, forks, rims, exhaust, plastics,etc. Look at the swing arm chain guide for erosion, ask about fuel pump, etc.

I hate to think what my poor '08 is worth after tons of singletrack crashes, loop outs, boulder collisions, etc. It runs good., and I keep it mech. together, but... time to relegate it to gravel and 2 track only.
Damn. If I lived in Seattle I would buy that NOW. It really sucks that you cannot find these in Florida. The above deal is good enough to make me entertain the idea of having it shipped and buying blind (never a good idea..). Only bad thing is the K&N filter aka ringeater/sandblaster
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:47 PM   #31220
zimzooma
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Location: Upstate New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Beard View Post
My question is does $3400 seem to be a reasonable price for this bike ?
I have an 09 with a similar setup to the bike you are describing. $3400 seems like a fair price if it is in great mechanical condition. If it looks good too, that's a plus. The only thing coming up that might be costly is the valve adjustment at 15,000. Maybe someone who has crossed that bridge can chime in. I've read of the fuel pump issues and I've read of some people getting Yamaha to take care of it free of charge. The WR is a great machine hope it works out for your friend.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:49 PM   #31221
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zimzooma View Post
I have an 09 with a similar setup to the bike you are describing. $3400 seems like a fair price if it is in great mechanical condition. If it looks good too, that's a plus. The only thing coming up that might be costly is the valve adjustment at 15,000. Maybe someone who has crossed that bridge can chime in. I've read of the fuel pump issues and I've read of some people getting Yamaha to take care of it free of charge. The WR is a great machine hope it works out for your friend.
I thought the valve adjustment was at 20something thousand? Not that 15 is all that bad..
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:52 PM   #31222
zimzooma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I thought the valve adjustment was at 20something thousand? Not that 15 is all that bad..
I could be wrong. Hard to keep the schedules from 4 bikes straight in my mind.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:52 PM   #31223
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My manual shows valve check at " every 26,600 miles".
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:55 PM   #31224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
My manual shows valve check at " every 26,600 miles".
Thanks.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:55 PM   #31225
Ginger Beard
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Location: Sunny Northern Cuba (aka: South Florida)
Oddometer: 6,370
Thanks for the fast replies guys. Pretty much what I figured regarding value. I have done the fuel pump swap on another friends WR and don't mind doing that and a valve adj on this one if they are out of spec. I will recommend to him that he run it to a shop and have it gone over when he goes to look at it. He's been bikeless for 3 months and it's killing both of us since he is one of the main dudes I ride with. Hopefully he has a new to him WRR in his garage soon!!
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #31226
what broke now
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The scheduled check is at 26k. It takes about 2 hrs if you hotrod it, but 3 is safer. I heard something and did a check at 4500mi, but it was on spec and pristine inside. Must have heard voices in my head.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:00 PM   #31227
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
The scheduled check is at 26k. It takes about 2 hrs if you hotrod it, but 3 is safer. I heard something and did a check at 4500mi, but it was on spec and pristine inside. Must have heard voices in my head.
Any reason so long?? I have done them on other bikes, including my old DRZ, and usually about an hour, 1.5 hrs max is there is a loot of bodywork to get off first.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:15 PM   #31228
what broke now
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"Any reason so long??"

Probly because i'm old and fussy . I think inmate "Skierd" did his in an hour, but there is a lot of junk to remove, and get everything clean before you pull the valvecover, because it has to slide by the frame and radiator, etc. Dirt could get in easily. Anyway, modern bikes don't have much room to work, everything is packed in tite.

Say, I'm looking ata 200 exc, don't you have one, or? How is the experience?
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:28 PM   #31229
MeefZah
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So two dudes who don't have WRs are on this thread discussing the maintenance intervals and things to look for on a used one. Okay...

I sold my first at 12,000 mi and it was running great. I bought my second with 15,000 miles on it and it was (is) running strong, now at 22,000 miles.

I've never looked at the valves, I ride the piss out of it, and I run a K and N filter.

It's a solid engine and as long as the $3400 FL bike starts easily and runs well, I see no reason to even compression test it.

$3400 is a decent price, BTW.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:41 PM   #31230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
My manual shows valve check at " every 26,600 miles".
Mine says 24K. Number on the front of the manual is 32D-28199-E0. What's with the discrepancy?
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