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Old 10-29-2012, 06:24 AM   #31246
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post


Not. Directed. At. You.

My bad bro.. Party on.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:24 AM   #31247
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Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
+1

I had my rear shock rebuilt by WER Suspension also, and the result was amazing. Had it done this past spring and racked up a bunch of miles this season, including a week-long trip with some serious suspension abuse in Colorado.

Unless you weigh more than 200 lbs, the stock spring can be used. It's rated at 7.7 Kg/mm. Since I weigh about 195 lbs, Drew recommended that I just stick with the stock spring. The custom valving they did made all the difference.

The price was also very reasonable --- $200 smackers, plus some shipping fees. Needless to say, I've been very happy with the upgrade.

Yep..kept my spring too. I was a tad too heavy fully gear up, so I lost some weight. All good now.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:34 AM   #31248
coresports
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Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
Just started riding an 09 WR250x, never had any problems until tonight, when the throttle started sticking open, have to manually close the throttle to decelerate, etc... It did turn colder this weekend, low of 38, can't imagine that having any effect, but the timing is odd. Any input is greatly appreciated
if you have handguards, check that, when i first put mine on it was a bit tight and my throttle was doing the same thing then i backed out the end plug screw a tad and it's fine now, maybe it was close before and the cold has expanded things a bit?
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:57 AM   #31249
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No hand guards; just rode it to a cookout, no problems, got back on a few hours later to ride it home, throttle won't snap back to idle, almost like I have cruise control... Couldn't immediately see any binding issues, but will look at it again in the light of day, has to be something embarrassingly simple.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:59 AM   #31250
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Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
mine has the same issue. I cannot fix it. I have narrowed it down to something in the throttle body. I tried everything. I took the tank off and moved the cam that the cables connect to by hand and thats where the sticking is coming from not the cables or the throttle tube. Mine only sticks past about 1/2 throttle. Take the tank off and look down at the throttle cam and see if the cables go somewhat slack if you wiggle the throttle a bit when it's stuck (if that makes sense) and if they do then you have the same issue as me. I tried to find a diagram of the throttle body but cannot find one detailed enough to see what could cuase a hang up in the throttle body. The only other thing that I thought of is the the return spring is somehow shot/defective.
This exchange was addressing the throttle problem ^^^ [page 1905]

Mine is sluggish as well, but not enough to get me to look beyond cable lube and ensuring the hand grip is free.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:22 AM   #31251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
Anybody have pics of the ortlieb saddlebags on their bike. Interested in how they would fit without using racks.
I rarely use'em (THEY'RE HUGE) but I have a set since I used to pack them on my KTM 620 Adventure......

A couple of pics from a ride a few years ago......NO RACKS needed.....



Riding high on the heat shield but manageable

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Old 10-29-2012, 10:35 AM   #31252
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Check the tps mine had the same issue there is a thread somewhere on how to adjust it.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:04 AM   #31253
coresports
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Disclaimer: I own a DR650 and have only done extensive research on the WR250R. I also live in Florida.

The WR can easily do 50k or more miles if its well taken care of. A good thing is some of the expensive farkles are already done, so its pretty much buy and ride for 3400- not bad. I guess the only thing to be wary of is how well the bike has been maintained (which is excellent as youve explained) and how hard its been ridden (and crashed). Seems the guy prolly rides it hard with the type of farkles he has, but not necessarily.

Id say take it to a Yammie dealer and have them do a compression check and a general lookover before buying- you would pay for this yourself of course. Ive been keeping my eyes open for a WR and I have not found one for under 4500, even with more miles than that, ANYWHERE, let alone Florida. If the compression is alright and it only needs a few things, id say go for it. Well see what other inmates think

If your bud decides not to, send me a PM (or post here) and I might consider it myself

Good luck..

**EDIT** Some 08 models have had fuel pumps fail; unless he has replaced it, id go ahead and set aside a few hundred for a new one as insurance
hmm...make's me want to toss my 100% stock (handguards/brake/caliper guards/folding mirror) one owner, well maintained 8,500 mile 08 WRR on a trailer, take a week trip down to FL and sell!! $4,500 & free delivery...any takers?

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Old 10-29-2012, 11:15 AM   #31254
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Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
You can have all the opinions you want, but you're disseminating bad information to a prospective owner, and you aren't even passing it on from personal experience with the WR.



I totally encourage information sharing with prospective owners but maybe the people doing the sharing should actually have experience with WTF they are talking about.



Not. Directed. At. You.

I got my information from people who have experience with WTF they are talking about, primarily from this thread and nearly every damn google page on the WR250R because I am OBSESSED with this bike because it is awesome (unlike you). Do you mean to tell me some dude who goes and buys a WR250R and doesnt read on it (just rides it) is suddenly more qualified to address issues that he may have no experience with than someone else who has the accrued wisdom of thousands of owners because he takes the time to research the bike?

You go ahead and keep drinking the K&N koolaid btw. Make sure you list it in your for sale ads so I can be sure to avoid your bike.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:25 AM   #31255
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Originally Posted by coresports View Post
hmm...make's me want to toss my 100% stock (handguards/brake/caliper guards/folding mirror) one owner, well maintained 8,500 mile 08 WRR on a trailer, take a week trip down to FL and sell!! $4,500 & free delivery...any takers?

Its terrible dude

Cant find any of them here. Even the Yammie dealer has none in stock and its going to be months (!) before any arrive. You are a lucky man..
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:35 PM   #31256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
Check the tps mine had the same issue there is a thread somewhere on how to adjust it.
Back to the sticking throttle.......................................... .......

Here is a thread on the Throttle position Sensor.

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5...on-off-at-idle

It's not about sticking throttle but more about adjusting the TPS. There is some discussion on the thread about moving the TPS too much one way or the other and causing the throttle to stick. I'm beginning to think there may be a correlation between some of the sticking throttle issues people report, and TPS just by the way it sounds, but that said I have no personal experience with the problem. What I have done is loosen both screws holding the TPS and adjust it, which is a huge pain in the ass.

What I am thinking is.......... that if the TPS was not adjusted evenly at both screw locations at the factory it could be off center from the shaft just a small amount, enough to cause a bind. This could be the reason some people found it to be in a bind when making adjustments.

Unfortunately it would be a pretty labor intensive job to loosen up the TPS and see if the TB can be taken out of a bind by moving it.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:38 PM   #31257
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Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
Back to the sticking throttle.......................................... .......

Here is a thread on the Throttle position Sensor.

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5...on-off-at-idle

It's not about sticking throttle but more about adjusting the TPS. There is some discussion on the thread about moving the TPS too much one way or the other and causing the throttle to stick. I'm beginning to think there may be a correlation between some of the sticking throttle issues people report, and TPS just by the way it sounds, but that said I have no personal experience with the problem. What I have done is loosen both screws holding the TPS and adjust it, which is a huge pain in the ass.

What I am thinking is.......... that if the TPS was not adjusted evenly at both screw locations at the factory it could be off center from the shaft just a small amount, enough to cause a bind. This could be the reason some people found it to be in a bind when making adjustments.

Unfortunately it would be a pretty labor intensive job to loosen up the TPS and see if the TB can be taken out of a bind by moving it.
Not that hard to adjust you don't need to loosen the bolts just tap it with a blunt object carefully
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:28 PM   #31258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
Not that hard to adjust you don't need to loosen the bolts just tap it with a blunt object carefully
Some have managed to "move" the TPS using this method but others have not been able to make it budge.

What I'm saying is if you loosen both screws to let the TPS "float" and the throttle stops sticking you could tighten them back down with the TPS set correctly, out of a bind.

Heading down another road........... Ford had a problem with the butterfly on some of their throttle bodies sticking a few years back. It had something to do with the shaft and bearings. There was a recall and the TBs were replace under warranty.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:35 PM   #31259
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Not being familiar at all with this bike, I have no idea where to even begin looking for the elusive TPS; as a DR rider, these things don't even exist in my world...looks like I'll be pulling up a schematic when I get home.

If this is what it is, Any ideas why it would choose the first cool night ride to go out if adjustment?
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:05 PM   #31260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
Not that hard to adjust you don't need to loosen the bolts just tap it with a blunt object carefully
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
Not being familiar at all with this bike, I have no idea where to even begin looking for the elusive TPS; as a DR rider, these things don't even exist in my world...looks like I'll be pulling up a schematic when I get home.

If this is what it is, Any ideas why it would choose the first cool night ride to go out if adjustment?
My Ford Explorer that had the TB replaced stuck the first time for me on a cold night. I've had one Carb stick from icing up too. Cold humid air collected ice around the butterfly when it was below freezing, but once you stopped and let it set for just a minute it melted and freed up.

Starting on Page 3 of the post I linked there are photos of the Process and a pic of a home made special tool.
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