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Old 10-29-2012, 08:49 AM   #16
bbishoppcm
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Bennington, NH
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I had an Elite 150, I paid $550 for it as a total complete basket-case (you have no idea how rare scooters are up here!) and $1000 later, it was a beautiful machine. I sold it at an enormous loss, but I had fun. I'm riding a 1998 Helix now, and couldn't be happier.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:45 PM   #17
baloneyskin daddy
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Why did you sell it at an enormous loss?
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:07 AM   #18
ride4321 OP
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Placed an order at Adv. Auto for fluids today and will change them out tonight.
Preston Antifreeze-silicate free
Castrol Edge Synthetic 10-30 (winter around the corner)
Mobile 1 synthetic gear oil

That stuff should work fine right?

Hopefully my buddy can weld up the exhaust for me sometime this week.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:52 PM   #19
bbishoppcm
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Originally Posted by ride4321 View Post
Placed an order at Adv. Auto for fluids today and will change them out tonight.
Preston Antifreeze-silicate free
Castrol Edge Synthetic 10-30 (winter around the corner)
Mobile 1 synthetic gear oil

That stuff should work fine right?

Hopefully my buddy can weld up the exhaust for me sometime this week.
The oil should be 10w40, but everything else is fine; good job on the silicate-free coolant, that will work fine. Gear oil should be 75w90 or so, that's what I've always used with good results.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:53 PM   #20
bbishoppcm
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Why did you sell it at an enormous loss?
I had to get rid of it to make room for the Helix, it had to go QUICK!
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #21
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Spent the night changing fluids and making a gasket for the exhaust. Still need a better bolt for the fixed exhaust bolt but the homemade gaskets seemed to quiet it down quite a bit, I think the exhaust is ok. I just took a hammer and tapped the flange back into place, no need to weld anything.

Check it out...

before...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VbcP...ature=youtu.be

and after...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuyFi...ature=youtu.be

The oil looked good but changed it anyhow, the tranny fluid looked good also but changed that as well. Didn't tear off the plastic to do the coolant but that also looks good so I'll do that at my leasure.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:00 PM   #22
bbishoppcm
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Sounds great! What did you make the exhaust gasket out of? FYI; The factory gasket is made of a steel ring stamped around a fiber gasket; it costs about $2 from the dealer and will last roughly the life of the rear tire, coincidentally.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:06 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by bbishoppcm View Post
Sounds great! What did you make the exhaust gasket out of? FYI; The factory gasket is made of a steel ring stamped around a fiber gasket; it costs about $2 from the dealer and will last roughly the life of the rear tire, coincidentally.
I have the steel gasket but it didn't have any fiber seal when I pulled the exhaust. I just used some gasket material I had laying around. I'll take the original steel one to the Honda dealer and see if they have a replacement. I still can't tighten it snug, need a few washers and a better nut for the bolt that's fixed to the header but it was much quieter with my work around and that tells me the exhaust is ok which is very cool.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:56 AM   #24
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I sent in the registration form to Vermont DMV yesterday. I didn't get any paperwork with the beast so I'm taking the advice I'd read on this forum about getting a VT registration. It's easier, quicker and way cheaper than trying to get a title in NY. Hopefully I'll have the registration and plate within a few weeks.

Ordered a new ignition switch, keys and 2 accessory locks on eBay yesterday for $16. The switch for this model is discontinued. The one I bought looks very similar and has the same mounting setup and the harness is similar although not the an exact match. It'll be nice to use a key to start it instead of pliers.
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:37 PM   #25
bbishoppcm
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I suggest replacing the exhaust nuts and throwing some anti-seize on the studs when you finally get the correct gasket installed.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #26
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I'll keep that in mind but will try to fix this first. Do you think one of them is in good shape? PM a price to me if it is.
got what looks to be a good muffler. but have not unbolted it yet.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:36 PM   #27
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Ignition switch wiring help?

To all you electrical guru's out there. I just got my new ignition switch in the mail. Good fit and should work fine once I figure out which wires to hook up. The plug is different on the new one but both use 5 wires. I'll have to cut and splice the old plug on the new switch.

The old switch has a separate wire and a 4 wire plug. The separate wire is black with white stripe. The 4 wires in the other plug are red, brown (green stripe), green and black.



The new switch has a 5 wire plug. Colors are green (2), brown, red, black with white stripe.



I'm guessing the black (white stripe) on each connect, same with the brown and red. That leaves 2 green on the new and the green and brown/green on the old. Would both of those be grounds? Here's how it's labeled on the old switch schematic.

Brown-Bat(2?) can't read the number
Red -Bat(1?) can't read the number
Black-Bat(3?) can't read the number
Green-E(ngine)
B/W-IG(nition)

On the new switch (for a 50cc Spree) the wiring diagram only shows 4 wires even though there are 5 wires on the switch. The schematic labels them...

Black-Battery
B/W-Ignition
Green-E(ngine?) There are two green wires but only one mentioned and shown in the drawing
Red-BA1
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:40 AM   #28
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Took the logical approach and wired up the new switch. My only real concern were the two green wires on the new and the green green/brown on the old switch so I just randomly connected those wires and the switch works. Now I can reinstall it and use the keys! I also got the locks for the seat and glove box with this kit ($16 on ebay, new, two keys). The glovebox lock fit, the seat lock didn't. I can get the seat off without the key so no big deal.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:59 PM   #29
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OK, pulling the front plastic off this thing is like pulling your own teeth.:eek: It's all in fairly good shape but some fastening points are broken and the left turn signal part is busted off. Got all the plastic bits inside now and will repair what I can, replace rusted screws and start buffing out imperfections and give them all a coat of wax.
Note: if my registration fails and this turns out to be hot (I ran the VIN and nothing came up) I'm gonna be P!$$ed.



Lot's of beer in the fridge, time to put some tunes on and polish my plastic bits.:cool:

Note: These bikes often get the broken plastic removed and ridden naked, they call them Skellies. Don't think that thought isn't crossing my mind after removing the plastic. Here's a fine example...



$$ spent so far...around $100 and that includes $50 for registration and plates in VT.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:10 PM   #30
Wentwest
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These machines are as sturdy and durable as a brick, with minimum maintenance. Most of them are just neglected to death. Remember that in 1984 there was no synthetic oil, and they used regular gas. So, clean it up, check that the rollers in the variator aren't totally flat, check the condition of the belt, make sure your tires aren't 25 years old, and enjoy! There is a 150 service manual at http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/vie...hp?f=11&t=8558

Sometimes the rear bearing in the swingarm is bad, but it could be dry. The bolt holding the rear wheel rotates with the wheel, but it can be loose sometimes. Most times the speedo cable is broken inside, but you can still get them from Honda.

The 85 150 is the same machine, Honda just increased the displacement to get it to meet standards for freeway legal.

These are very ugly, but they are the best scooters ever. They just run and run.
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