The XT600 Thread

[JensEskildsen]

I've got the same white acerbis 23ltr tank and have been able to fill 24.7ltrs in mine when it was just about on fumes.

[joatmoa]

Hi JensEskildsen
When I did the exercise, to see what my tank held, it was at room temperature as the bike was in a heated garage. You filled up, presumably, from a Filling Station where the fuel would have been colder and therefore you would get more in. In Mongolia the fuel is, quite often, stored above ground and is therefore warmer. The capacity of the tank will be less with warm petrol.
The MotoGP teams store their fuel in a freezer before filling their bikes thus allowing more fuel into their restricted fuel capacity bikes. As seen on the BBC MotoGP prelude last weekend.

[Zombie_Stomp]

Has anyone here run heated grips on their XT600? I am considering it and want to know if the electrical system can support grips or other heated gear. What available amps are there? Dual Star's grips apparently draw 36 watts on high setting. http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Ride...d_grip_kit.htm

[riderjohn]

I got my 1986 XT back together and running today .The throttle is very stiff and doesn't close on it's own,I have to manually roll it off.Is something out of adjustment? Also,even after rolling off the throttle,when I pull in the clutch,the engine continues to run fast for a few seconds before RPMs drop back to idle speed.What can cause that?

[Zombie_Stomp]

Originally Posted by riderjohn

I got my 1986 XT back together and running today .The throttle is very stiff and doesn't close on it's own,I have to manually roll it off.Is something out of adjustment? Also,even after rolling off the throttle,when I pull in the clutch,the engine continues to run fast for a few seconds before RPMs drop back to idle speed.What can cause that?

Congratulations on your successful reassembly. When I got my low-miles German imported XT600, I had cable issues you might relate to. First and most noticeable was the sticky throttle. It ended up being a paper adhesive label still affixed to the handlebars, all I had to do was remove the twistgrip and clean the bars off. Yours might have a throttle cable gummed up instead. Second, I had a severely gummed up clutch cable. When i removed it from the bike, i would have to pull extremely hard to get the cable to move inside the housing. It took hours of spraying it with penetrating lubricants of 2 different kinds before it freed up and moved back and forth like a cable should. Once I got these two cables movement freed up, it was a night-and-day handling improvement; no more hard bucking when I would pull the clutch in in 1st gear at low speeds; the bike would rather smoothly disengage, and with the throttle cable, no more lingering throttle, it only acellerated and let of when I told it to.

Long story short, make sure all your control cables are functioning smoothly, it makes a big difference. IMHO.

[vudu]

^ good ideas. Also check your carby linkages. Problems you describe may be related.

Good luck and post a pic

[no eye deer]

Originally Posted by Zecatfish

Has anyone ridden an old XT600Z Tenere?
I'm curious if that 28L tank makes it an unruly top heavy pig?

One of these.
I'm thinking I want one of those tanks.

had a TT600 at the time, and had a chance to ride the XT above. Top heavier? Yes. Unruly? No..
Mark

[JensEskildsen]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp

Has anyone here run heated grips on their XT600? I am considering it and want to know if the electrical system can support grips or other heated gear. What available amps are there? Dual Star's grips apparently draw 36 watts on high setting. http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Ride...d_grip_kit.htm

My 4pt makes around 180W. You can easely add 50W or so no problem.

[TheRadBaron]

Alright! I finally found a camshaft for my XT for a fair price and bought it up. The XT hasn't been my top project priority lately but I've been plugging away at it slowly. I had the motor all the way apart and recently put it back together with a new piston and bore, and cam chain. I didn't have a good cam so the progress hit a standstill for a while. Everyone on ebay either wanted $100-$200 bucks for a good used cam, or they wanted $40 for an unusable, scored up mess. Well, one finally came up on the block yesterday that looks to be in good shape and for a good price. Once it gets here in a few days I can finally get the motor all the way together.

[trailtosakhalin]

We have a XT 1992 and 1999 and made a few adjustments.

see our equipment page http://www.trailtosakhalin.com/file/...equipment.html

[Zombie_Stomp]

Originally Posted by JensEskildsen

My 4pt makes around 180W. You can easely add 50W or so no problem.

That has me excited... so where and how should i connect it, and using a relay or no? Also, with all that wattage, does this mean I could possibly also have a heated jacket? That would rule. Looking for something thin for inside the aerostich.

[joatmoa]

Hi Zombie Stomp

Before you get all excited about your fabulous output from the alternator you need to consider the following...

The engine needs 35 watts to run or 3 Amps
The headlight, if it's an H4 bulb, is 55w or 4.6 Amps
The instrument lights (on when you have the lights on) are 3.4w each and there may be 4 of them = 13.6w or 1.13 Amps
The tail light is 5w or 0.42 Amps
the brake light is 21W or 1.75 Amps
The indicators (only on for a short while obviously) are 21w each with a 5w instrument panel light = 47w or 4 Amps
You've just fitted heated grips that are 36W or 3 Amps (less than a pair of moulded ones and nowhere near as warm - I've had both types)

So, if your engine is running and you have your lights on whilst braking and indicating you're using 176.6w or 14.72 Amps - your generator is roughly 187w if it's the same as mine, an 600E 2003.
If your heated grips are on then you will be running a deficit until you knock off your indicators and brake lights.

I'm fitting a front CREE LED lamp that draws 10w or 0.83 Amps so I don't have to run with my headlight on when traversing Europe, Asia, Alaska and Canada next year. Then I can run my 40w heated waistcoat as well as my 50w heated grips. I have already cut down my energy usage by fitting a 35w HiD headlight unit which is 3 times brighter than the H4 and uses 20w less on dip and 25w less on main beam.

[reimorei]

Hi folks! I´m looking for a dual-purpose bike here in Brazil and my choices narrowed to the Yamaha XT 660R or a Husky TE610. The Yamaha, I think, is more road oriented then the Husky but as I´m a former enduro rider here (used to have WR 450, KTM 200, KTM 250, etc..) I think I´ll have more fun with the Husky in off road sections and bad Jeep roads, although I´ll need to use the bike also on the street, but only for comuting to work, about 5 to 10 miles a day.
For the same Year-model, the Husky costs 25% less then the Yamaha, and this is because the Husky importer here went out of businness and we have replacement parts problems, whereas Yamaha is solid here for more then 40 yrs, and the XT 660R is built in Brazil, and as it´s much more popular it´s resale is also better.
I´ve heard of some XT660R putting more than 100k miles before a major engine rebuild.
What can I expect from a TE610 before a rebuild? I´m aware of the cam chain problem.
The TE610 weighs around 100 lbs less than the Yamaha (306 vs 400) and have 5hp more.
I can find a 2008 TE610 here with the odo as low as 3.000 miles for 75% the price of 2008 XT660 averaging 15.000 miles.
Can I live with the TE610 in the streets on a daily basis? I´m 5´6 tall, would have to lower the bike?
I can import parts if needed from USA, only have to wait more.
Thanks in advance for the advices

[G600]

Originally Posted by reimorei

Hi folks! I´m looking for a dual-purpose bike here in Brazil and my choices narrowed to the Yamaha XT 660R or a Husky TE610. The Yamaha, I think, is more road oriented then the Husky but as I´m a former enduro rider here (used to have WR 450, KTM 200, KTM 250, etc..) I think I´ll have more fun with the Husky in off road sections and bad Jeep roads, although I´ll need to use the bike also on the street, but only for comuting to work, about 5 to 10 miles a day.
For the same Year-model, the Husky costs 25% less then the Yamaha, and this is because the Husky importer here went out of businness and we have replacement parts problems, whereas Yamaha is solid here for more then 40 yrs, and the XT 660R is built in Brazil, and as it´s much more popular it´s resale is also better.
I´ve heard of some XT660R putting more than 100k miles before a major engine rebuild.
What can I expect from a TE610 before a rebuild? I´m aware of the cam chain problem.
The TE610 weighs around 100 lbs less than the Yamaha (306 vs 400) and have 5hp more.
I can find a 2008 TE610 here with the odo as low as 3.000 miles for 75% the price of 2008 XT660 averaging 15.000 miles.
Can I live with the TE610 in the streets on a daily basis? I´m 5´6 tall, would have to lower the bike?
I can import parts if needed from USA, only have to wait more.
Thanks in advance for the advices

I guess it depends on what “dual purpose” means to you. The XT660R is not much of a dirtbike but it is very good for long days in the saddle. Comfortable commuter and adv bike, will handle luggage well, and is ok for easy trails.

I sold my XT660R this summer. I have not owned a TE610E (I assume you are talking about the E model) but have had several Husky bikes through the years and I’m sure it is much more capable off road. 5-10 miles per day commuting is nothing, the husky will be fine for that.

I don’t know about the fuelling system in the TE610E in your area, but the XT660R Yamaha has FI and not a carb. IMHO that is a big minus, lots of things more to go wrong.

[JensEskildsen]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp

That has me excited... so where and how should i connect it, and using a relay or no? Also, with all that wattage, does this mean I could possibly also have a heated jacket? That would rule. Looking for something thin for inside the aerostich.

Use a relay, or run them directly to the battery, either one has its advantages and disadvantages.

As I said, you've got 50w or so to spare, but if its not required to run with the headlight on, you can turn that off and save another 50-60w.