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Old 10-30-2012, 01:12 PM   #3751
Zombie_Stomp
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Heated grips?

Has anyone here run heated grips on their XT600? I am considering it and want to know if the electrical system can support grips or other heated gear. What available amps are there? Dual Star's grips apparently draw 36 watts on high setting. http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Ride...d_grip_kit.htm
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
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STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

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Old 10-30-2012, 08:55 PM   #3752
riderjohn
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I got my 1986 XT back together and running today .The throttle is very stiff and doesn't close on it's own,I have to manually roll it off.Is something out of adjustment? Also,even after rolling off the throttle,when I pull in the clutch,the engine continues to run fast for a few seconds before RPMs drop back to idle speed.What can cause that?
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:17 PM   #3753
Zombie_Stomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riderjohn View Post
I got my 1986 XT back together and running today .The throttle is very stiff and doesn't close on it's own,I have to manually roll it off.Is something out of adjustment? Also,even after rolling off the throttle,when I pull in the clutch,the engine continues to run fast for a few seconds before RPMs drop back to idle speed.What can cause that?
Congratulations on your successful reassembly. When I got my low-miles German imported XT600, I had cable issues you might relate to. First and most noticeable was the sticky throttle. It ended up being a paper adhesive label still affixed to the handlebars, all I had to do was remove the twistgrip and clean the bars off. Yours might have a throttle cable gummed up instead. Second, I had a severely gummed up clutch cable. When i removed it from the bike, i would have to pull extremely hard to get the cable to move inside the housing. It took hours of spraying it with penetrating lubricants of 2 different kinds before it freed up and moved back and forth like a cable should. Once I got these two cables movement freed up, it was a night-and-day handling improvement; no more hard bucking when I would pull the clutch in in 1st gear at low speeds; the bike would rather smoothly disengage, and with the throttle cable, no more lingering throttle, it only acellerated and let of when I told it to.

Long story short, make sure all your control cables are functioning smoothly, it makes a big difference. IMHO.
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:46 AM   #3754
vudu
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^ good ideas. Also check your carby linkages. Problems you describe may be related.

Good luck and post a pic
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:26 AM   #3755
no eye deer
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Originally Posted by Zecatfish View Post
Has anyone ridden an old XT600Z Tenere?
I'm curious if that 28L tank makes it an unruly top heavy pig?

One of these.
I'm thinking I want one of those tanks.
had a TT600 at the time, and had a chance to ride the XT above. Top heavier? Yes. Unruly? No..
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:29 AM   #3756
JensEskildsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp View Post
Has anyone here run heated grips on their XT600? I am considering it and want to know if the electrical system can support grips or other heated gear. What available amps are there? Dual Star's grips apparently draw 36 watts on high setting. http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Ride...d_grip_kit.htm
My 4pt makes around 180W. You can easely add 50W or so no problem.
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:51 AM   #3757
TheRadBaron
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Alright! I finally found a camshaft for my XT for a fair price and bought it up. The XT hasn't been my top project priority lately but I've been plugging away at it slowly. I had the motor all the way apart and recently put it back together with a new piston and bore, and cam chain. I didn't have a good cam so the progress hit a standstill for a while. Everyone on ebay either wanted $100-$200 bucks for a good used cam, or they wanted $40 for an unusable, scored up mess. Well, one finally came up on the block yesterday that looks to be in good shape and for a good price. Once it gets here in a few days I can finally get the motor all the way together.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:18 AM   #3758
trailtosakhalin
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We have a XT 1992 and 1999 and made a few adjustments.

see our equipment page http://www.trailtosakhalin.com/file/...equipment.html
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:52 AM   #3759
Zombie_Stomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JensEskildsen View Post
My 4pt makes around 180W. You can easely add 50W or so no problem.
That has me excited... so where and how should i connect it, and using a relay or no? Also, with all that wattage, does this mean I could possibly also have a heated jacket? That would rule. Looking for something thin for inside the aerostich.
__________________
1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:40 PM   #3760
joatmoa
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Alternator output

Hi Zombie Stomp

Before you get all excited about your fabulous output from the alternator you need to consider the following...

The engine needs 35 watts to run or 3 Amps
The headlight, if it's an H4 bulb, is 55w or 4.6 Amps
The instrument lights (on when you have the lights on) are 3.4w each and there may be 4 of them = 13.6w or 1.13 Amps
The tail light is 5w or 0.42 Amps
the brake light is 21W or 1.75 Amps
The indicators (only on for a short while obviously) are 21w each with a 5w instrument panel light = 47w or 4 Amps
You've just fitted heated grips that are 36W or 3 Amps (less than a pair of moulded ones and nowhere near as warm - I've had both types)

So, if your engine is running and you have your lights on whilst braking and indicating you're using 176.6w or 14.72 Amps - your generator is roughly 187w if it's the same as mine, an 600E 2003.
If your heated grips are on then you will be running a deficit until you knock off your indicators and brake lights.

I'm fitting a front CREE LED lamp that draws 10w or 0.83 Amps so I don't have to run with my headlight on when traversing Europe, Asia, Alaska and Canada next year. Then I can run my 40w heated waistcoat as well as my 50w heated grips. I have already cut down my energy usage by fitting a 35w HiD headlight unit which is 3 times brighter than the H4 and uses 20w less on dip and 25w less on main beam.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:59 PM   #3761
reimorei
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XT 660R or Husky TE610 in Brazil

Hi folks! Im looking for a dual-purpose bike here in Brazil and my choices narrowed to the Yamaha XT 660R or a Husky TE610. The Yamaha, I think, is more road oriented then the Husky but as Im a former enduro rider here (used to have WR 450, KTM 200, KTM 250, etc..) I think Ill have more fun with the Husky in off road sections and bad Jeep roads, although Ill need to use the bike also on the street, but only for comuting to work, about 5 to 10 miles a day.
For the same Year-model, the Husky costs 25% less then the Yamaha, and this is because the Husky importer here went out of businness and we have replacement parts problems, whereas Yamaha is solid here for more then 40 yrs, and the XT 660R is built in Brazil, and as its much more popular its resale is also better.
Ive heard of some XT660R putting more than 100k miles before a major engine rebuild.
What can I expect from a TE610 before a rebuild? Im aware of the cam chain problem.
The TE610 weighs around 100 lbs less than the Yamaha (306 vs 400) and have 5hp more.
I can find a 2008 TE610 here with the odo as low as 3.000 miles for 75% the price of 2008 XT660 averaging 15.000 miles.
Can I live with the TE610 in the streets on a daily basis? Im 56 tall, would have to lower the bike?
I can import parts if needed from USA, only have to wait more.
Thanks in advance for the advices
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:38 PM   #3762
G600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reimorei View Post
Hi folks! Im looking for a dual-purpose bike here in Brazil and my choices narrowed to the Yamaha XT 660R or a Husky TE610. The Yamaha, I think, is more road oriented then the Husky but as Im a former enduro rider here (used to have WR 450, KTM 200, KTM 250, etc..) I think Ill have more fun with the Husky in off road sections and bad Jeep roads, although Ill need to use the bike also on the street, but only for comuting to work, about 5 to 10 miles a day.
For the same Year-model, the Husky costs 25% less then the Yamaha, and this is because the Husky importer here went out of businness and we have replacement parts problems, whereas Yamaha is solid here for more then 40 yrs, and the XT 660R is built in Brazil, and as its much more popular its resale is also better.
Ive heard of some XT660R putting more than 100k miles before a major engine rebuild.
What can I expect from a TE610 before a rebuild? Im aware of the cam chain problem.
The TE610 weighs around 100 lbs less than the Yamaha (306 vs 400) and have 5hp more.
I can find a 2008 TE610 here with the odo as low as 3.000 miles for 75% the price of 2008 XT660 averaging 15.000 miles.
Can I live with the TE610 in the streets on a daily basis? Im 56 tall, would have to lower the bike?
I can import parts if needed from USA, only have to wait more.
Thanks in advance for the advices
I guess it depends on what “dual purpose” means to you. The XT660R is not much of a dirtbike but it is very good for long days in the saddle. Comfortable commuter and adv bike, will handle luggage well, and is ok for easy trails.

I sold my XT660R this summer. I have not owned a TE610E (I assume you are talking about the E model) but have had several Husky bikes through the years and I’m sure it is much more capable off road. 5-10 miles per day commuting is nothing, the husky will be fine for that.

I don’t know about the fuelling system in the TE610E in your area, but the XT660R Yamaha has FI and not a carb. IMHO that is a big minus, lots of things more to go wrong.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:31 PM   #3763
JensEskildsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp View Post
That has me excited... so where and how should i connect it, and using a relay or no? Also, with all that wattage, does this mean I could possibly also have a heated jacket? That would rule. Looking for something thin for inside the aerostich.
Use a relay, or run them directly to the battery, either one has its advantages and disadvantages.

As I said, you've got 50w or so to spare, but if its not required to run with the headlight on, you can turn that off and save another 50-60w.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:34 PM   #3764
Zombie_Stomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joatmoa View Post
Hi Zombie Stomp

Before you get all excited about your fabulous output from the alternator you need to consider the following...

The engine needs 35 watts to run or 3 Amps
The headlight, if it's an H4 bulb, is 55w or 4.6 Amps
The instrument lights (on when you have the lights on) are 3.4w each and there may be 4 of them = 13.6w or 1.13 Amps
The tail light is 5w or 0.42 Amps
the brake light is 21W or 1.75 Amps
The indicators (only on for a short while obviously) are 21w each with a 5w instrument panel light = 47w or 4 Amps
You've just fitted heated grips that are 36W or 3 Amps (less than a pair of moulded ones and nowhere near as warm - I've had both types)

So, if your engine is running and you have your lights on whilst braking and indicating you're using 176.6w or 14.72 Amps - your generator is roughly 187w if it's the same as mine, an 600E 2003.
If your heated grips are on then you will be running a deficit until you knock off your indicators and brake lights.

I'm fitting a front CREE LED lamp that draws 10w or 0.83 Amps so I don't have to run with my headlight on when traversing Europe, Asia, Alaska and Canada next year. Then I can run my 40w heated waistcoat as well as my 50w heated grips. I have already cut down my energy usage by fitting a 35w HiD headlight unit which is 3 times brighter than the H4 and uses 20w less on dip and 25w less on main beam.
I have not bought them yet. Where do you get these molded ones you speak of? I am picturing something that has the heat element closer to the surface of the grip and is integrated into it? As for the wattage, I'll replace tail lite and turn signals with LED to save as much power as possible. Also, where do you get the LED HID headlight? I bought the bike with a Lithium Ion battery, should I add the relay after the fuse? Thanks!
__________________
1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:16 AM   #3765
no eye deer
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2003 XT Black or blue?

G'day,
I am new to the site. i've owned a TT500 an XT 500. Also a TT600 and an "cough" XR600.Also numerous smaller 250's, and some roadbikes. .

What Id like to know is - what motor designation is in the XT600e from 2003.

Also, whats the difference between black and blue models around 2003?

I am getting a 2003 Black XT600 2003 tomorrow. Cant wait.
Thanks fellas.
(Anyone on here in Cairns?)


Mark from Cairns Au.
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