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Old 11-03-2012, 06:46 AM   #31366
markk53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Those stainless steel bolts are OK (pricey), but my solution to finding longer good quality flange head metric bolts is my local Honda car dealership's parts department.

The local Ace Hardware has metric flange bolts but they are generic Chinese crap with poorly made threads and rough finishes--not something I trust to hold critical loads or look at and feel like ...

Turns out Honda's parts numbering system for bolts is readily decoded, and they use the same parts numbers for both motorcycles and cars. An 8x55 flange bolt is 95701-0805508. High quality Japanese-made, beautifully formed and spec'd. to meet the strength needed here. Call your nearest Honda car parts department, ask for that number, if they don't have it in stock they'll get it usually the next day. I paid about $1.25 per bolt, well worth it.

95701 = flange head bolt
08xxxxx = 8 mm dia.
xx055xx = 55 mm length
xxxxx08 = thread pitch??? (less certain about this...)
In reading this, I had some thoughts since I've had to deal with metric hardware in a sideline project making cam chain tensioners. If you did some digging might find the 8 is a rounded M8-.075 fine thread pitch. They do two fine pitches, M8-1.00 and M8-.075 threads per millimeter. But I'm guessing. The coarse 8mm thread is M8-1.25 threads per mm.

Here is a link to the ISO charts

I buy bolts at Fastenal, where they can be ordered individually (if not in stock and usually not). Problem is washers and nuts are not sold in singles. Just pointing out the alternative. I am fortunate in having a really good old style hardware store for the goofy or single stuff. I use Fastenal for my quantity purchases though.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:01 AM   #31367
markk53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoprire View Post
I've had good luck getting individual stainless bolts from http://www.desmoparts.com/ High quality bolts, great selection too. He has kits for some bikes, but a separate page for individual sizes.

Make sure you use anti-seize on them for sure when steel on stainless or stainless on stainless. I am not sure about aluminum. Seems when the bolts/nuts are threaded together the scraping of the surfaces causes some removal of a material that surfaces to avoid corrosion, then the material will bond together - aka sieze up. My brother used stainless for a nut/bolt pinch clamp on a Betor fork axle clamp. They seized and he had to snap the bolts to get them off.

I'd certainly check on the aluminum/stainless reaction to be sure. Here's Fastenal's take on it.

Here's another expert's take from an expert in the industry based on what I've found on a net search, Joe Greenslade.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:52 AM   #31368
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Originally Posted by Joe Watson View Post
Any Aussies out there scanning this thread for info because they are looking at buying. I have just put mine up for sale. Check out all the info here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=142



Sad..
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:56 AM   #31369
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Watson View Post
Any Aussies out there scanning this thread for info because they are looking at buying. I have just put mine up for sale. Check out all the info here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=142



Radiator on the left??
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:27 AM   #31370
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
Radiator on the left??
Damn, good eye there Mr. Tom. I can see a guard on the right as well.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:27 PM   #31371
EEKAMOUSE
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Damn, good eye there Mr. Tom. I can see a guard on the right as well.
And what's the giant skidplate plz share!
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #31372
Mikef5000
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Giant skid plate has a 'tool box' on each side.

The dual radiators is interesting!
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:59 PM   #31373
Gany
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Joe's build thread is here:
http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t4228-my-wr250r-build
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:56 PM   #31374
AZ TOM
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Dual radiators, a great idea, dummy radiator guard??? Seems like another place for catching dirt & mud?
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:17 PM   #31375
reddirtjoe
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Fork seals? How to replace?




91 Octane? Wnere? what does everyone else do?
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:05 PM   #31376
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddirtjoe View Post

91 Octane? Wnere? what does everyone else do?
I run 87 mostly, every so often I splurge and put in 93. It runs exactly the same.
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:38 AM   #31377
Joe Watson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddirtjoe View Post
Fork seals? How to replace?

Very very simple job:

http://youtu.be/Y43k1qFVGW4

http://youtu.be/C9ICr-DOmdk

I would never pay anyone to do my fork seals.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:22 AM   #31378
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sturgeon View Post
Something like this would also work well.

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...ield-mat/76/35

I've used it to insulate luggage from exhaust heat.
Yes but then you would have to cut and match the complex curve angles of the tank area around the fuel pump intake. So much easier to reorder the tank heat shield that comes on the OEM tank and place that around the fuel pump. That is what I did; it fits quite nicely and it took about 5 minutes with the tank off prior to its first installation.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:32 AM   #31379
Cycle Sector
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Im selling my stock levers in case anyone is interested, perfect condition except for some scuffs on the tip of the brake. Im also including the stock perch. $30 plus $7 shipping takes em. Please message me.

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Old 11-05-2012, 01:36 PM   #31380
Nice_Rumble
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License Plate Light

Anyone else's license plate light really loose? I tried tightening the bolts but there is an internal spacer that prohibits making it any tighter plus the nuts are capped. Is it loose by design? Shorter bolts or a standard nut makes no difference due to the spacer.

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