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Old 10-03-2012, 08:24 PM   #3466
stinkycheezmonky
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Winchester, VA
Oddometer: 51
Yay, I get to join the club! Picked this up tonight:


Towed home 1.5hrs...with a Miata. It was interesting, and I intend to never do it again
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:31 AM   #3467
jspringator
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Location: Versailles, KY
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Is that a u-haul trailer? If so, how was it. I owned a Miata for years. I bet that was some ride! I now have a BMW 3 series convertible. I put a hitch on it, but haven't towed anything yet. Those U-Hauls look pretty slick.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:10 AM   #3468
stinkycheezmonky
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The trailer itself was actually pretty nice, just a little heavy for my car. The ramp was easy to use and kind of spring-loaded so it didn't just drop to the ground when you unhook it. There was a notch in the front specifically for a motorcycle tire too, kind of holds it in place. Enough D-rings to strap pretty much anything down and rode fairly nice. Anything with more than like 150hp should be able to tow it just fine, so I'm sure your BMW wouldn't have a problem :)

For reference, this was the 5'x9' open trailer with ramp from Uhaul. Cost me $25 to rent it for the night. I had OODLES of room, and probably could have gotten away with the 5'x8' which was quite a bit smaller, but also doesn't have a ramp.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:01 AM   #3469
Tourniquet
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Location: NYC
Oddometer: 75
Thanks for the info. Chain is less than a year old with 10k or less miles on it. The rear sprocket looks good could it be the front one. I heard there was a bearing in the clutch that might get noisy so I will replace that as well this weekend.

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Old 10-23-2012, 06:32 PM   #3470
Tourniquet
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Location: NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourniquet View Post
Thanks for the info. Chain is less than a year old with 10k or less miles on it. The rear sprocket looks good could it be the front one. I heard there was a bearing in the clutch that might get noisy so I will replace that as well this weekend.
So I tried to replace my clutch this weekend. There was a bolt on the shaft that held all the disks in. The bolt seemed to require a special key and also a it had a piece of metal bent into a groove.

I didn't think I needed any special "key's" to just replace the friction plates. Has anyone replaced a clutch on a 90's 750 NH?
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:20 AM   #3471
RABBIT170
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Wayne, IN
Oddometer: 99
Jet Kit NH750

Hey guys,
I'm looking to get the V&H's pipes for my 99 750 (and a K&N filter), I know it will need a jet kit, I plan on getting it installed and tuned on a Dyno. So what jet kit should I get? or should I just see what the Dyno shop recommends? I would really like them to tune it so the pipes do not turn blue.

I know dynojet sell a stage 1, but i would really like it to be a stage 2.
Any thoughts?

thanks
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:08 PM   #3472
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Location: VA NRV
Oddometer: 125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tourniquet View Post
So I tried to replace my clutch this weekend. There was a bolt on the shaft that held all the disks in. The bolt seemed to require a special key and also a it had a piece of metal bent into a groove.

I didn't think I needed any special "key's" to just replace the friction plates. Has anyone replaced a clutch on a 90's 750 NH?
Its called a Castle Nut, and needs a Castle Wrench to turn it. I borrowed the wrench from a local mechanic. If you're handy, you could make it out of a 32(?)mm socket, as I've seen done before. The metal that's bent into the groove is a locking device and will have to be replaced.

You do have a repair manual, yes?
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:13 PM   #3473
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Location: VA NRV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RABBIT170 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm looking to get the V&H's pipes for my 99 750 (and a K&N filter), I know it will need a jet kit, I plan on getting it installed and tuned on a Dyno. So what jet kit should I get? or should I just see what the Dyno shop recommends? I would really like them to tune it so the pipes do not turn blue.

I know dynojet sell a stage 1, but i would really like it to be a stage 2.
Any thoughts?

thanks
Stage 1 is generally for stock setup, to make it run less 'lean'. You may have to get individual jets (instead of a kit) if a stage 2 isnt available. Havent personally seen many webpages on re-jetting a nighthawk, and figuring it out on your own could get pricey. I would totally work with your dyno shop.

And keep up posted on what you come up with!
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:54 PM   #3474
Deadly
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Excelsior Springs, MO
Oddometer: 1,520
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Kurgan View Post
In case anybody is looking...

http://searchck.com

Type: "Honda Nighthawk 750" in search box.

Currently, there are 10 pages of Nighthawks across the USA, some are in pristine condition, with low mileage and expensive extras (like Corbin seats)... prices are usually under $3000, with many hovering around $2000 or less!


It looks like our Nighthawk 750's are starting to lose some value.


.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:56 PM   #3475
AZbiker
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Phoenix, in the Arcadia area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RABBIT170 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm looking to get the V&H's pipes for my 99 750 (and a K&N filter), I know it will need a jet kit, I plan on getting it installed and tuned on a Dyno. So what jet kit should I get? or should I just see what the Dyno shop recommends? I would really like them to tune it so the pipes do not turn blue.

I know dynojet sell a stage 1, but i would really like it to be a stage 2.
Any thoughts?

thanks
Stock pipes don't turn blue because they are double-walled.

So what exactly does a Stage 1 and Stage 2 mean to you?
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:40 PM   #3476
Meter Man
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Location: Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZbiker View Post
Also make sure the boots going from the carb to the airbox are soft rubber--exposure to the elements hardens the material and then you won't get a good seal. Also the manifold from the carb to the motor shouldn't be cracked--that can also let air in.

The reason it runs good on the choke is that you're running lean. Either this is the result of a plugged pilot jet (just buy a new jet when you get the carb apart, only costs $5-7), or air entering the system at another place besides the air filter.
My bet is the the pilot jet. You should be able to pull the carb, clean the carb, replace the pilot jet in a few hours if you are slow, an hour if you have done it before.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:22 AM   #3477
Purcell69
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Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,559
I need some help troubleshooting a no-start issue with my 1985 CB700SC. The other day when riding home from work, I stopped to fill the tank about 15 miles from home. The bike had been running flawlessly for the past 30 miles. When I went to restart the engine, I push the start button and nothing happened. The headlight dropped out of circuit, but no click from the starter relay. Everything else worked as it should. I tried to push start, but there were no signs of life.

I have the bike home now and have tried cleaning the start button with electrical parts cleaner. No change. I can jump between the starter solenoid and the + terminal on the starter motor, with the key on and the clutch pulled, only the have the motor crank over but no spark. The Run/Stop switch is in the "Run" position and does not get used.

Suggestions?

-Joe
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Purcell69 screwed with this post 11-01-2012 at 10:31 AM
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:13 PM   #3478
Ailkel
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Oklahoma
Oddometer: 7
Hi Joe,

Have you checked the fuses and the fuse block? I have seen some really weird things on motorcycles.

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Old 11-01-2012, 01:30 PM   #3479
Purcell69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ailkel View Post
Hi Joe,

Have you checked the fuses and the fuse block? I have seen some really weird things on motorcycles.

Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2
Yep, I checked those while I was waiting for the wife with the truck and trailer.

I was playing with the test light this morning and found that with the key on, clutch switch bypassed, and the start button pushed, I only get power to one of the two poles that should be powered when the start button is pushed. I looks like it is a bad start button/switch.

-Joe
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:41 PM   #3480
Purcell69
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Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
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The "start" button is bad. I picked up a momentary switch from the auto parts store and wired it in to the right switch harness. The bike starts and runs perfectly again. I just need a more permanent solution, since this switch is not weather proof. I bought a used right switch assembly on E-Bay that will get me back to OE, but it's still almost 30 years old. I am thinking about trying to install the starter push button from a newer Nighthawk in the 1985 assembly. At least then I would have a new switch.

-Joe
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