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Old 11-04-2012, 06:04 PM   #6211
crankshaft OP
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Originally Posted by offworlder View Post
I recently replaced the stock can on my 690 with the FMF Q4, and after examining the bike post ride, noticed the FMF was loose, even though the bolts are as tight as they can go. The FMF mounts via only one side of the exhaust mounting bracket. While the rubber grommets in the mounting bracket may introduce some play, they are likely present more so to decouple the pipe from the tank (shock absorption). If memory serves, the stock pipe was rock solid.

Anyone else experience this, and have a working fix ?

Thanks.
Tighten the clamp on the pipe, I have the same exhaust and its solid. Ridden all kinds of nasty with zero issues. You might be doing it wrong
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:18 PM   #6212
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Tighten the clamp on the pipe, I have the same exhaust and its solid. Ridden all kinds of nasty with zero issues. You might be doing it wrong
(as the upper mount is riveted/siliconed to the pipe, and hence cant be tightened) How tight should the lower pipe clamp be ? I cant see the lower clamp being primarily responsible for rigidity, as that would put alot of stress on the header...

Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:38 PM   #6213
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Originally Posted by offworlder View Post
(as the upper mount is riveted/siliconed to the pipe, and hence cant be tightened) How tight should the lower pipe clamp be ? I cant see the lower clamp being primarily responsible for rigidity, as that would put alot of stress on the header...

Thanks.
A loose exhaust is probably worse than a tight clamp, think of the weight of the muffler moving around. Think of it like a slide hammer.

Tight man, can't explain it..
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:26 PM   #6214
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
A loose exhaust is probably worse than a tight clamp, think of the weight of the muffler moving around. Think of it like a slide hammer.

Tight man, can't explain it..
Tighten I have, and she now feels much firmer. I'll slap myself for thinking the upper mount would/should bear the brunt of the weight....

Thanks Crank.
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:45 AM   #6215
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Originally Posted by Mini Trail View Post
OK need some help again. Backstory, I had the fuel pump replaced in March, then it started smoking so I replaced the piston and rings. I rode it about 60 miles and shut it off and it wouldn't restart, then it bound up. I pulled the valve cover and the wheel pin worked its way out of the intake valve rocker and was interfering with the exhause rocker.

I got it back together today and it started quick enough but is running like crap and sometimes won't start at all. When it does start it runs rough backfires a little, won't idle for long and if I give it throttle it bogs like a carbureted bike when it is still cold.

The only thing I know to check is the cam timing for the 3rd time. The engine light is not on.

Start off checking the injector. Sounds like it could be fuel related. is the pump cycling when powered up? I know you replaced the pump already, but I'd start with fuel, and spark.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:47 AM   #6216
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Start off checking the injector. Sounds like it could be fuel related. is the pump cycling when powered up? I know you replaced the pump already, but I'd start with fuel, and spark.
Honestly it is acting like the pump but I don't want to go there. The pump is making noise. I checked the spark before I put it all back together. I guess I'll study up on the injector.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:05 AM   #6217
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Fuel Injector

That's where I'm at right now also. I cleaned mine myself, and the 690 fired up all sweet like (previously was not starting at all) but it does stall. Changed the fuel filter, recleaned the injector and and runs poor. Stalls when decelerating/stopping, and misses when accelerating. Holding Rpm, it runs, say doing steady 80 kph, or higher. But crack the throttle and it misses.

I have checked spark, wires, everything I could myself and taking the injector out and putting it back in was the only item that resulted in a positve.

So now today I'm in the process of finding someone to do the "ultrasonic" cleaning? Or at least at more "proffessional" cleaning than I gave it. Funny though, the shops I've called so far seem to do the same, homemade cleaning style that I do, just blow air backwards through it.

Once I can rule out the injector, then I'll look at a different part I suppose...but I think it's got something to do with it...

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Old 11-05-2012, 09:34 AM   #6218
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I'd try to get some wideband O2 readings so you actually know what the bike is doing under load at various RPMs.

Running rich can create just as much damage as running lean.
Agree, although finding such equipment with qualified technicians around here is quite a task.

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Old 11-05-2012, 11:43 AM   #6219
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The power wires going to the coil, the 2 spade connectors, were very corroded on my 2010. The gauge size is too small. I was have similar type of problems, it would run great, than barely idle or not start at all and no pattern to it. Just something else you may want to check
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:02 PM   #6220
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The power wires going to the coil, the 2 spade connectors, were very corroded on my 2010. The gauge size is too small. I was have similar type of problems, it would run great, than barely idle or not start at all and no pattern to it. Just something else you may want to check
I had the same problem on my 09 690r. Seemed like a fuel problem but it was those blade connectors on the coil being a little loose. They were not corroded on my bike but crimping them for a tighter fit solved the problem.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:11 PM   #6221
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power wires to coil

Hmm, pictures? Or verbal description of the wires/connectors that you mean? I couldn't find any noticeable problems with my wires, but then again, I know not what I look for Are we talking down on the right side of bike?

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Old 11-05-2012, 01:39 PM   #6222
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Originally Posted by MFS View Post
Hmm, pictures? Or verbal description of the wires/connectors that you mean? I couldn't find any noticeable problems with my wires, but then again, I know not what I look for Are we talking down on the right side of bike?

MFS
Yes, there are 2 spade connectors on the coil. Check those. Also make sure the earth is clean and not corroded/rusty
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:46 PM   #6223
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Originally Posted by jorich View Post
The power wires going to the coil, the 2 spade connectors, were very corroded on my 2010. The gauge size is too small. I was have similar type of problems, it would run great, than barely idle or not start at all and no pattern to it. Just something else you may want to check
Just had this problem on my 08 in the Atlas mountains. Last night she was missing around 5k rpms. I checked the spray out of the injector and it was slightly weak so I switched it out. I also changed the spark plug. Still missing today then it cut out completely and wouldn't start.

I had weak to no spark and spade connector on the coil was so loose it fell off when I removed the coil. Problem solved. I also re-sanded the grounding while I was at it.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:31 PM   #6224
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Yah. I started cutting back my wires to get clean copper. My wires were black for about 4 inches. Those spades seem to get loose quite easily.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:27 PM   #6225
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My coil connectors were fine and I was dissapointed.

I pulled the injector but I have never messed with one on a bike before. I don't know how much fuel should come out on startup. When I turn on the key the fuel line going to the injector "chubbed up" so I figured the fuel pump is building pressure. I listened carefully to it though and it seems a bit noisy.

Cranking the bike with the throttle closed produced a light mist, I just don't know how much it should be. I do know that a bosch CIS system that just pees fuel all the time would produce a wetter output at the injector.
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