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Old 11-05-2012, 10:48 PM   #70756
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 422
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Ding, the light goes on. TravelGuy nailed it. I knew if we talked long enough, someone would figure it out.

Heirhead:

Shorter links won't work in the DR, there will be interference at the red circle. (BergDonk's photo) Look at your bike, good chance yours is hitting.
To lower the bike, you want longer arms.

BergDonk said this in the linked post:
"And results in about 2 mm clearance, although not real obvious in the pic. The shock will extend further too when it tops out, about 2 mm according to Frank, so a bit of clearance is good. It's also why shorter link arms aren't really a solution to getting the ride height up. "

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=54

Hello,

13 tooth was a two holer and came with retainer, Yamaha. Just wanted to make sure it was right, THANKS!!!
Lowering links were from ProCycle and supposed to make the bike 1" lower. When I put them on I also put on Corbin seat which is wider. Bike felt way taller. Put Gel seat on and bike still felt tall. Will call Pro Cycle in am to get Dim. on holes. Then will see about RED CIRCLE!! If the links need to be longer to lower the circle maybe will not come into play.

Thanks again guys for the great info.

Heirhead
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:56 PM   #70757
Magnum Noel
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Location: Wellington NZ
Oddometer: 173
"Tape a piece of tubing to your vacuum and suck it out."

Hey what a brillient idea
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:03 AM   #70758
Taikimoto
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Weaverville, NC
Oddometer: 41
I have the procycle brake light / license plate kit and was wondering if anyone else has had problems with the brake light element going on in the brake bulb. The running light element is fine, but the brake light element burns out often, is it a wiring issue or just crappy bulbs? I replace it with the stock # bulbs.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:08 AM   #70759
Skidmarkart
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
Oddometer: 171
I am going to pull my BST40 carb and clean it, and hopefully do some mild mods to make it work a little better. Is the Procycle kit the way to go? I think I have seen a couple of others (like Moose) but they seem to be more tilted toward a stock rebuild or freshen-up.

TIA for any info.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:20 AM   #70760
disconnected
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Location: Pittsburgh
Oddometer: 6,525
howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

Thanks,


Greg
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:26 AM   #70761
acap650
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

Thanks,


Greg
I've been looking at this one for the same reason. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692098
Waterproof but not very bright so needs to be mounted in shaded area. I just ordered one and plan to mount it on top of indicator light pod where it will be somewhat shaded by headlight fairing. Will post pic when I get it.
Yo Greg, where you at? I'm in Verona.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:40 AM   #70762
victor441
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Oddometer: 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
howdy. can you guys recomend a good voltmeter.I have seen a bunch, but they all look the same on the internet. I Want to run my heated gloves and vest, but need to monitor and switch off/on accordingly.

Thanks,


Greg
I like the LED type, it gives plenty of info, am running this one and especially like that it dims to half brightness when it is in a steady state for a minute or so but goes to full brightness if there is a change...$28

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Old 11-06-2012, 07:46 AM   #70763
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,795
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
INow ... when I "fool" with spark plugs I first use high pressure air (or a good wash) to blow out all the grit and sand that settles down around the plug wells. Then, when you pull the plug ... go slow and LOOK for crud around there, try to get it out or just don't disturb it.
Good advice but if you don't have the luxury of an air hose or good wash, it helps if you loosen the spark plug a few turns then turn the engine over with the starter for 20 seconds or so. The air leaking around the spark plug helps to dislodge and blow away sand and other harmful particles.

Repeating the process a couple of times as you take the plugs out is even better.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:55 AM   #70764
acap650
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Hey folks... got a new one for you.

I have an FCR_MX carb (from MXRob) on my DR650. For as long as I've had the bike, the choke knob won't stay all the way out. I have to sit there and hold it in place til it warms up enough, or just ride it and deal with the lean surge.


Rob
Not sure if this is relevant but I installed the Procycle engine mounted choke for the BST40 and found the engine would not idle after warm-up with choke off. Replaced the brass plunger with the stock one and stalling problem was solved but the knob would not stay out for starting. About 90% of the time it would pop in as soon as the starter cranked. It requires three hands to hold it out while pressing the starter and squeezing the clutch so I took it apart and replaced the spring with the stock spring (must be slightly weaker) and now it pops in about 10% of the time. The detent notch is just too shallow. If it works like the BST choke, you might try a similar approach - some hardware stores have an assortment of compression springs in various sizes.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:04 AM   #70765
sandwash
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Flagstaff Az
Oddometer: 1,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Good advice but if you don't have the an air hose or good wash, it helps if you loosen the spark plug a few turns then turn the engine over with the starter for 20 seconds or so. The air leaking around the spark plug helps to dislodge and blow away sand and other harmful particles.

Repeating the process a couple of times as you take the plugs out is even better.
I just use a small screw driver and a length of tubing to break the junk up and than blow the crap out of the well(s).Loosen the plug couple of turns and and repeat.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:28 AM   #70766
JagLite
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 945
Eh? Monday goofup is SOP

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
I think you have the backwards? Shorter links should raise the seat height, longer links will lower the seat height.

TravelGuy

If the lowering link holes are closer together than the ones you removed, the bike is now lower in the rear.
Period.
UNLESS, you increased the preload on the shock and raised the back end up.
Did you change anything else when you installed the links?
[/QUOTE]

Hah!
That should teach me to reply from work....
My brain doesn't work very well when I am not looking at the problem.
I should have said that if the link holes are closer or farther apart the ride height WILL change up or down.
Or something like that maybe.

I should know that, having taken mine off and on several times and have raised and lowered my bike.
Thanks for being kind and tactful Travelguy!

Hey! it was a Monday after all....
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:57 AM   #70767
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,275
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
I just use a small screw driver and a length of tubing to break the junk up and than blow the crap out of the well(s).Loosen the plug couple of turns and and repeat.
I must be retentive in nature.

I do all of it. First blow with the air hose. Scrape around with a little pick and break the plugs loose. Blow again with the air hose. Then take plugs all the way out and hit it with the shop vac.

Sand is really hard- a piece between the piston and cylinder does bad stuff!
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:01 AM   #70768
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 945
Thumb Jet kit options

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I am going to pull my BST40 carb and clean it, and hopefully do some mild mods to make it work a little better. Is the Procycle kit the way to go? I think I have seen a couple of others (like Moose) but they seem to be more tilted toward a stock rebuild or freshen-up.

TIA for any info.
I vote for ProCycle (PC).
I have their kit in both of my DR's.
You do need to modify the airbox by cutting the top open as their instructions tell you to do.
If you do NOT want to cut the airbox, use the Factory Pro (?) kit that is designed for the stock airbox.

I believe the ProCycle kit uses the Dynojet needle but not the Dynojet jets as they have their own sizing.

From their site:
Quote:
Our own jet kit for the DR650 stock Mikuni BST40 carburetor. Includes the extended fuel mixture screw and stainless steel allen screws for the float bowl and top cap. Comes with easy to understand detailed instructions and diagrams - even a template for modifying the airbox.
The major advantage of using PC parts is that they actually ride DR's and have first hand experience.
If you have any problems or questions you can just call them and they will know what you are talking about and can offer useful help.
Try calling Moose or Dynojet ...


Derek at Motolab is also very helpful and although he disagrees with PC on how to tune our carb, if you want to call him, you can have him set you up with the parts and tuning guidelines. He sells all the stock carb parts, needles, jets, etc. I don't think he has (yet?) a special "jet kit" to wake the DR engine up, but he has a strong background in engine tuning.

Bottom line is that many of us are very happy with how our DR's run using the PC "jet kit" and their tuning instructions.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:12 AM   #70769
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
I like the LED type, it gives plenty of info, am running this one and especially like that it dims to half brightness when it is in a steady state for a minute or so but goes to full brightness if there is a change...$28

I've been using one of those on my '05 DR650 for about six years and have been happy with the way it works and the information it gives.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:21 AM   #70770
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
Oddometer: 8,373
Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
I like the LED type, it gives plenty of info, am running this one and especially like that it dims to half brightness when it is in a steady state for a minute or so but goes to full brightness if there is a change...$28

Mount it up right next to:



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