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Old 11-06-2012, 04:17 PM   #70786
Skidmarkart
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Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
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BTW - Thanks to JagLite and Mongle too. I was just thinking if I was going to go through the trouble of removing and disassembling it, that I would go ahead and jet it.

I did confirm one thing on the way home today... it runs perfect with the cold start enrichment circuit out. Exactly like I would expect a well tuned biked to run. No bog, no limping idle, power quickly when the throttle is opened.

Guess I will be learning about cleaning a carb this weekend. You can drink beer while doing that right?
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:23 PM   #70787
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Guess I will be learning about cleaning a carb this weekend. You can drink beer while doing that right?
Don't know if you have seen this posting yet; great info!

Carb bible for the DR.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184


And I believe beer drinking is in the instrucions in that post!
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #70788
ER70S-2
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I'm going to post this before I accidently delete it, but I have more to add.
Ok, I'm done.

Please fill out your profile, state or country, it will help us figure out your riding conditions.
Like: what altitudes do you ride at?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Somewhat - the bike is fairly new to me. It wasn't running 100% when I got it, but it was running much better than it is now. In the past couple of weeks, it has gone downhill. There's more low-end bog (taking off from idle), and there is more popping when the throttle is released. Seems to run great with the choke on.

I got it about 4 weeks ago a 2005 with 800 miles... So, it has done a fair bit of sitting. The guy who had it before me got it as a present from his wife (cool wife right?), and put a total of 100 miles on it in the last year. I did that in the first day.

I don't know if the change in weather (it is much cooler here now) or simply riding a bike that hasn't been ridden that has loosened thing up a bit.

It is bone stock, never been off road, never had any service (to my knowledge) besides oil changes. I did one of those as soon as I got it, and it had very clean oil and a newer filter on it (someone had obviously done an oil change).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I have fiddled with the external adjustment screw, but I can't seem to find a happy spot.
Mongle asked: 'The right one or the left one?' Do you have a 'left one', or is it a brass plug (a mirror will be needed if it's still stock with a flush plug).



Jessepitt did this awesome photo essay: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=71
Including pics of the brass plug, this is one of them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Also, I have rotten mileage from what folks here seem to get. Maybe 30mpg?

Thanks for any info...
Stick around, someone will come up with the info to fixit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I just want my stock carb sorted, I am not really trying to do anything besides get rid of the bogging down, backfiring, and poor mileage. I am agnostic about how it is done.

I do not like the fact that there are many changes done at once, and apparently some sorting that may need to be done afterwards (this may be the case with any change to the carb). My biggest fear is getting into a situation where my bike is out of commission for a long time while I sort issues out.

Just about anyone here would no more about tuning that I do. I just like to ride it to work everyday and the one thing I do not have is time to chase gremlins out of the system.
The RED is for those hard of reading.

An easy way to tell if someone has been in the carb (which I doubt, too low mileage), is to look at the carb screws. A stock carb will have JIS screws (phillips look-a-likes). If you have allen heads (two on the top and two on the float bowl, you'll need a mirror), someone has been in the carb. The stock JIS screws are very tight, if your bit doesn't fit tight, you will strip them out. An impact wrench will help (one of those you hit with a hammer, not one with 6 hp and running on 175 pounds of air).

Just to the left of the petcock vacuum is an allen head screw w/washer; not stock. Before you start, buy 4 replacement allen head screws at any good hardware store, the carb screws are 5 x 14 mm. Buy 4, two top, two bottom



With mileage that poor and running lean; replace the pilot (fixes running better with the choke on), and these two o-rings (fixes your terrible mileage). They're metric and I'd suggest getting them from Zuki, Derek probably has them too.

Pilot jet itty-bitty orifice.



Leaky o-rings, murdered by ethanol. A light coat of grease will help the float assembly slip back into place.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Thanks Mongle,
Nice to have you speak up with your experience.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
My experience is working with engineers, and I have learned that this rule is all too true.

Rule of engineering #1:

If it was not taught in the books at school
if it has not already been done
if it isn't my idea

It isn't possible


Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
As Mongle said, dyno testing only helps, it is not the answer to all problems.
It is a tool to be used with knowledge and experience.
None of my bikes have ever seen a dyno.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Skidmarkart - sounds like your engine problem is just a carb that needs a complete cleaning by someone who knows what they are doing.
Could be you if you can read and follow directions.
Old gas has probably gummed things up and needs to be cleaned out.
Pilot jet is the common culprit I believe and while some have had success just cleaning it, most have found better results by replacing it.
Drain the old fuel, add something like Sea Foam to help clean where you can't see. This is normally the first step, but it sounds like the pilot is pretty much plugged.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Installing a jet kit will probably NOT solve the problem.
You said that you just want to ride, clean the carb, replace the pilot jet, two o-rings and put it back together stock. There are many of us happy with the stock stuff. If you get a lean surge, we'll talk about that later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I have not found a competent mechanic at any mc shop so I do my own work.
I am not a mechanic either but I can read and follow directions.

BTW, the best tuner I have known tuned by ear.
Yes, he had his own dyno too.
He tested air pressure, temperature and humidity before every run.
He kept a detailed notebook of every condition of every run.
He is an artist. Most tuners are technicians at best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
BTW - Thanks to JagLite and Mongle too. I was just thinking if I was going to go through the trouble of removing and disassembling it, that I would go ahead and jet it.
As JagLite said, "Ain't necessarily true."

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I did confirm one thing on the way home today... it runs perfect with the cold start enrichment circuit out. Exactly like I would expect a well tuned biked to run. No bog, no limping idle, power quickly when the throttle is opened.
Pilot jet.

Check the filter while you're in there. The rest of the story: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=52


Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Guess I will be learning about cleaning a carb this weekend. You can drink beer while doing that right?
If you're good with tools, yer golden. If not, all bets are off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Don't know if you have seen this posting yet; great info!

Carb bible for the DR.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184

And I believe beer drinking is in the instrucions in that post!
You don't have to read the whole thing, but there are lotsa pritty pictures, and you will learn lots. OBTW: Mongle is withholding information; many of the pics in the link are KTM BST-40. Just be aware there are differences, yours won't be identical.

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2013 WR250R

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 05:44 PM
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:02 PM   #70789
Chill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Carb bible for the DR.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184


And I believe beer drinking is in the instrucions in that post!
Good info. Nice post. My carb is actually running fine but I DO like the sound of drinking beer and inhaling carb cleaner fumes and seeing things.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:50 PM   #70790
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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ER70S, great clarification! I actually forgot the bible was ktm, good catch!

Do you hire out for "organizing"?


SKIDMARKART- you ever make it toward charlotte? If you dont have any luck hit me up and we might be able to make something happen!

Mongle screwed with this post 11-06-2012 at 07:59 PM
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:12 PM   #70791
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
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lowering links

Hello,

Back to the lowering links. Just wanted to say Thanks to the responders. Mucho gracias.
I called ProCycle this am. and measured my links compared to the ones they sold me. Theres indeed is longer.
I had that backwards in my post. The difference is 1/4 of an inch longer and they told me it lowered bike by 1"
Said it did not and they asked if I lowered forks also. Forks were already lowered 3/4 of an inch so no. They said the 1" is a combo of the links 1/4 of an inch AND front forks lowered. Guess I'll lower front forks more or get 2" links. They do not sell them as I was told that 1" is all anybody needs. Used to 5'9" but now must be shorter as I want bike lower still. Am on the right track, will have it dialed in soon. The Bergdonk RED CIRCLE is fine as the space gets bigger when lowering. I THINK!!!

Thanks again for your help,

Heirhead
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:56 PM   #70792
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
ER70S, great clarification! I actually forgot the bible was ktm, good catch!

Do you hire out for "organizing"?
Oh, hell yeah; a place for everything and everything in its place. Send money and I'll let you in on everything I've learned.





Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Back to the lowering links. Just wanted to say Thanks to the responders. Mucho gracias.
I called ProCycle this am. and measured my links compared to the ones they sold me. Theirs indeed is longer.
I had that backwards in my post. The difference is 1/4 of an inch longer and they told me it lowered bike by 1"
Said it did not and they asked if I lowered forks also. Forks were already lowered 3/4 of an inch so no. They said the 1" is a combo of the links 1/4 of an inch AND front forks lowered. Guess I'll lower front forks more or get 2" links. They do not sell them as I was told that 1" is all anybody needs. Used to 5'9" but now must be shorter as I want bike lower still. Am on the right track, will have it dialed in soon. The Bergdonk RED CIRCLE is fine as the space gets bigger when lowering. I THINK!!!

Thanks again for your help,

Heirhead
Thanks for the follow-up, inquiring minds want to know. I used to be 5'10" and lower would be better for me too. Let us know about the 'red circle'. I also hope it gets bigger with longer links.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:14 PM   #70793
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Back to the lowering links. Just wanted to say Thanks to the responders. Mucho gracias.
I called ProCycle this am. and measured my links compared to the ones they sold me. Theres indeed is longer.
I had that backwards in my post. The difference is 1/4 of an inch longer and they told me it lowered bike by 1"
Said it did not and they asked if I lowered forks also. Forks were already lowered 3/4 of an inch so no. They said the 1" is a combo of the links 1/4 of an inch AND front forks lowered.
I don't think you fully understood. The 1/4" longer links lower the rear suspension by one inch. Only the rear end of the bike is lowered. You can't lower the whole bike with links in the rear suspension. Since you sit near the middle of the bike the seat height will not change by the full amount. If you lower the front an equal amount to the rear then the seat height will also be lowered by the same amount.

Watch out for bottoming problems with the 2" lowering links. That's why we don't sell them.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:40 AM   #70794
canoli
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On reserve already?

Two questions for the collective:
1) I have about 5L of gas left in the safari tank. Is it normal to be on reserve already?



2) If I try to rotate the carb elbow to the 9 o-clock position to try and get all the fuel out of the tank I feel like it is going to snap off. What are my options if this thing wont budge? I dont have enough talent or skill to drill it out and fit a new inlet...nor do I actually own a bench vice . Should I just give it a go with a vice grip and if I break it, buy a new carb (would rather not)? Is there a fuel pump or vacuum that I can hook up?

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:34 AM   #70795
TRAVELGUY
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Oddometer: 571
My Safari goes totally dry on reserve. Try blowing into your cap vent line and see if that clears a vapor lock in your gas line.

Travelguy


Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Two questions for the collective:
1) I have about 5L of gas left in the safari tank. Is it normal to be on reserve already?



2) If I try to rotate the carb elbow to the 9 o-clock position to try and get all the fuel out of the tank I feel like it is going to snap off. What are my options if this thing wont budge? I dont have enough talent or skill to drill it out and fit a new inlet...nor do I actually own a bench vice . Should I just give it a go with a vice grip and if I break it, buy a new carb (would rather not)? Is there a fuel pump or vacuum that I can hook up?

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:43 AM   #70796
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Two questions for the collective:
1) I have about 5L of gas left in the safari tank. Is it normal to be on reserve already?
2) If I try to rotate the carb elbow to the 9 o-clock position to try and get all the fuel out of the tank I feel like it is going to snap off. What are my options if this thing wont budge?
The point where you go on reserve is determined by how tall the pipe coming out of the top of the petcock is. If you want less reserve fuel you can cut the pipe shorter. Changing the angle of the carb inlet won't affect when it goes on reserve.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:24 AM   #70797
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Two questions for the collective:
1) I have about 5L of gas left in the safari tank. Is it normal to be on reserve already?
5L liters of reserve on a tank that size is just about right, IMHO. I'd go with it, be happy!
The important thing is how much of your reserve can you use. I would strap on a 5 liter fuel jug and run out your reserve ... just so you know your TRUE range.
Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
2) If I try to rotate the carb elbow to the 9 o-clock position to try and get all the fuel out of the tank I feel like it is going to snap off. What are my options if this thing wont budge? I dont have enough talent or skill to drill it out and fit a new inlet...nor do I actually own a bench vice . Should I just give it a go with a vice grip and if I break it, buy a new carb (would rather not)? Is there a fuel pump or vacuum that I can hook up?
Thanks,
Canoli
Don't worry about rotating the Elbow. Leave it. No drilling. Main thing is to know just how far you can go on your reserve. With the IMS, about 2 liters are left once reserve runs out. You can only use that last bit of fuel if you tip the bike over. Good luck! Enjoy!
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:48 AM   #70798
Paddle007
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Wow. Post 71,001 Great thread. Thanks for all the info and inspiration. My commuter and weekend warrior.

Paddle007 screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 10:54 AM Reason: Add pic
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:47 AM   #70799
Skidmarkart
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Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
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Wow, thanks for the awesome write-ups everyone. I feel inspired. Hell, I feel downright confident, and I haven't even had a beer yet.

ER70S-2 - Wow, I feel like I am ready to tackle this job. Well, as soon as I get a six-pack I will be.

I guess I am pretty handy with tools, I used to rebuild camera and lenses, and work with computers and servers daily.

A "stock rebuild" kit is on the way from Moose Racing. I didn't want to get in there and find something like gasket, jet, etc that would leave me bike-less while I wait for parts. If it gets here before the weekend, I'll be getting dirty down in the garage with some carb work.

Mongel - I get down to Charlotte occasionally, not as much as I used to before I had kids, but I do a lot of things occasionally now days.

Same to you, if you are ever in Durham, I'd be happy to show all the swell bars!

Skidmarkart screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 11:48 AM Reason: hands faster than eyes and brain - gets me in a lot of trouble.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:41 PM   #70800
MikeyP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
Wow. Post 71,001 Great thread. Thanks for all the info and inspiration. My commuter and weekend warrior.

Nice looking setup! What happened to the windscreen on your lynx fairing? I've gotten much better at remembering to lower mine all the way down when going offroad after smashing it on a tricky downhill, along with my handguard plastic.
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