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Old 11-05-2012, 01:11 PM   #6241
MFS
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power wires to coil

Hmm, pictures? Or verbal description of the wires/connectors that you mean? I couldn't find any noticeable problems with my wires, but then again, I know not what I look for Are we talking down on the right side of bike?

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Old 11-05-2012, 01:39 PM   #6242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFS View Post
Hmm, pictures? Or verbal description of the wires/connectors that you mean? I couldn't find any noticeable problems with my wires, but then again, I know not what I look for Are we talking down on the right side of bike?

MFS
Yes, there are 2 spade connectors on the coil. Check those. Also make sure the earth is clean and not corroded/rusty
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:46 PM   #6243
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Originally Posted by jorich View Post
The power wires going to the coil, the 2 spade connectors, were very corroded on my 2010. The gauge size is too small. I was have similar type of problems, it would run great, than barely idle or not start at all and no pattern to it. Just something else you may want to check
Just had this problem on my 08 in the Atlas mountains. Last night she was missing around 5k rpms. I checked the spray out of the injector and it was slightly weak so I switched it out. I also changed the spark plug. Still missing today then it cut out completely and wouldn't start.

I had weak to no spark and spade connector on the coil was so loose it fell off when I removed the coil. Problem solved. I also re-sanded the grounding while I was at it.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:31 PM   #6244
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Yah. I started cutting back my wires to get clean copper. My wires were black for about 4 inches. Those spades seem to get loose quite easily.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:27 PM   #6245
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My coil connectors were fine and I was dissapointed.

I pulled the injector but I have never messed with one on a bike before. I don't know how much fuel should come out on startup. When I turn on the key the fuel line going to the injector "chubbed up" so I figured the fuel pump is building pressure. I listened carefully to it though and it seems a bit noisy.

Cranking the bike with the throttle closed produced a light mist, I just don't know how much it should be. I do know that a bosch CIS system that just pees fuel all the time would produce a wetter output at the injector.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:31 PM   #6246
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Originally Posted by Mini Trail View Post
My coil connectors were fine and I was dissapointed.

I pulled the injector but I have never messed with one on a bike before. I don't know how much fuel should come out on startup. When I turn on the key the fuel line going to the injector "chubbed up" so I figured the fuel pump is building pressure. I listened carefully to it though and it seems a bit noisy.

Cranking the bike with the throttle closed produced a light mist, I just don't know how much it should be. I do know that a bosch CIS system that just pees fuel all the time would produce a wetter output at the injector.
CIS pressure is much higher, 80-120 PSI, double what the 690 puts out. Most CIS injectors are bad, so the dribble anyway
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:06 PM   #6247
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Cranking the bike with the throttle closed produced a light mist, I just don't know how much it should be. I do know that a bosch CIS system that just pees fuel all the time would produce a wetter output at the injector.
I couldn't resist here it is.

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Old 11-05-2012, 07:30 PM   #6248
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Mini,
Fuel spray looks light
Pull the injector out of the holder. Divert incoming fuel to another container.
With the injector still plugged into the electrical hook up a tube and airhose to the output side. Then push some air/solvent through backeards as you spin the motor to cycle the injector. I can take some pics tomorrow if it'll help.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:16 PM   #6249
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Injector Screen

The good thing about doing things yourself, is that the second time everything goes sooo much smoother.

That said, this is still the first time, and a lesson has now been learned!

Next time, I will defineatley pull the infector screen before reverse-blowing air through it. Like ever other screen/filter, from shop vac to bike do we not always take filter out, as seperate component and clean it then?

This time however, I messed up trying to get that lil sucker out, and have punctured it

Have the injector soaking in Diesel fuel conditioner (recommended?) for the night, will put the screen back in tommorrow, reinstall it all and try it out! Small puncture, but it can't run any worse! Will try to order injector screen kit tomorrow. um, if there is such a thing.

Did check the spade connectors on the coil, the rubber housing on one was loose, and rubbed through by a rad hose. Pinched it on a bit tighter and hopefully that and a super clean injector will make a difference....

Gonna be "extra ready" for spring...

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Old 11-07-2012, 08:15 PM   #6250
Reshad
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Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
So... If any of you guys hear a squeaking/ chirping sound that does not seem to come from any of the obvious places (ie; skid plate, engine mount bolts, etc..). Do yourselves a favor, and tow/ truck the bike home, drain the fluids, pull the clutch clutch cover, and check the clutch assembly for play.

It seems that my bearing for the main shaft into the transmission let loose, and took some of the engine case with it...



Those needle bearings I was hoping were the problem sure held up well..











Not bad for 30k miles..







I decided to put away a few of these after I realized I was dealing with the worst case scenario.

Sorry to bring up this painful set of pics, but I believe I'm developing the same problem, albeit at an early stage, hearing clutch noises and feeling vibration in my bike. I removed the clutch cover, no apparent damage praise the lord, but found my clutch cage and has in/out and sideways play. I'm guessing either my primary shaft bearing, bearing seat or shaft itself are worn and would like to remove the clutch cage to better assess the situation. Unfortunately I don't have the special tool (Gear segment 75029081000) to block the clutch and remove the inner clutch hub nut :/ I read somewhere in SMJ that if you put the bike in gear and apply the brakes the nut can be undone. I tried this with the help of a friend but we were unable to make it budge (Lock-washer unlocked). Also tried the cloth wedge between the gears trick and while it effectively stops the clutch from turning, the nut simply won't budge. Seems like either KTM put on permanent thread-locker or torqued it like a bastard, or both. The prescribed torque is 100 Nm (73.8 lbs ft) but with a 1 foot long wrench i can put my entire weight (145 lbs) on it without any effect i.e. an effective 200 Nm torque. Is this normal in your opinion? Next logical step to me is to heat up the nut a bit and try again... Any recommendations on how to proceed?
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:23 PM   #6251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reshad View Post
Sorry to bring up this painful set of pics, but I believe I'm developing the same problem, albeit at an early stage, hearing clutch noises and feeling vibration in my bike. I removed the clutch cover, no apparent damage praise the lord, but found my clutch cage and has in/out and sideways play. I'm guessing either my primary shaft bearing, bearing seat or shaft itself are worn and would like to remove the clutch cage to better assess the situation. Unfortunately I don't have the special tool (Gear segment 75029081000) to block the clutch and remove the inner clutch hub nut :/ I read somewhere in SMJ that if you put the bike in gear and apply the brakes the nut can be undone. I tried this with the help of a friend but we were unable to make it budge (Lock-washer unlocked). Also tried the cloth wedge between the gears trick and while it effectively stops the clutch from turning, the nut simply won't budge. Seems like either KTM put on permanent thread-locker or torqued it like a bastard, or both. The prescribed torque is 100 Nm (73.8 lbs ft) but with a 1 foot long wrench i can put my entire weight (145 lbs) on it without any effect i.e. an effective 200 Nm torque. Is this normal in your opinion? Next logical step to me is to heat up the nut a bit and try again... Any recommendations on how to proceed?
you need more leverage or an impact gun. Try a socket and breaker bar and if that doesn't work find a pipe for more leverage. Good luck!
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:34 PM   #6252
Reshad
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
you need more leverage or an impact gun. Try a socket and breaker bar and if that doesn't work find a pipe for more leverage. Good luck!
Cheers for the advice crankshaft. Would def prefer to use an impact gun, but i don't have one, the bike is in my sitting room oil drained and the closest impact gun is down town and attached to an unmovable compressor... I'm concerned if i apply too much torque using a breaker bar or extension pipe the primary shaft might get sectioned as it is hollow in that part, or that the gears will eat up my wedge putting unnecessary perpendicular pressure on the crank and clutch cage cog, pushing either of them them out of trueness... What do you reckon are they all rock solid and i should just apply pressure until the nut loosens?
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:18 PM   #6253
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Managed to remove the nut by mimicking an impact wrench by firmly using a piece of wood as impactor against the flex wrench so as not to damage my ratchet..three taps and the nut came loose! I then removed the inner clutch hub; it looks mint in condition. The clutch cage definitely has some play at the needle-bearing interface and it came out easily too. All contact surfaces look fine with only normal wear. If the clutch cage play is not normal, then either the bearing is worn or either of the surfaces, shaft or clutch cage are worn. The primary shaft bearing looks intact, no traces of seizure or damage to the bearing cage, but here’s what I found that doesn’t seem quite right…The main shaft turns freely inside the bearing, no radial play but full axial play, so either the shaft or bearing surface is worn :/ I’d put my money on the shaft being softer and wearing rather than the bearing. Do yous reckon it’s it normal the shaft moves in and out of the bearing like that? Doesn’t seem normal to me, but as I’m no expert with the LC4 I might be wrong. The fact the whole assembly looks in such good condition, I’m tempted to replace the needle bearing only, put it all back together and play it by ear. Any thoughts? The alternative is a full rebuild to check/change the shaft or bearing, yikes for the wallet :/
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:48 AM   #6254
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reshad View Post
Managed to remove the nut by mimicking an impact wrench by firmly using a piece of wood as impactor against the flex wrench so as not to damage my ratchet..three taps and the nut came loose! I then removed the inner clutch hub; it looks mint in condition. The clutch cage definitely has some play at the needle-bearing interface and it came out easily too. All contact surfaces look fine with only normal wear. If the clutch cage play is not normal, then either the bearing is worn or either of the surfaces, shaft or clutch cage are worn. The primary shaft bearing looks intact, no traces of seizure or damage to the bearing cage, but here’s what I found that doesn’t seem quite right…The main shaft turns freely inside the bearing, no radial play but full axial play, so either the shaft or bearing surface is worn :/ I’d put my money on the shaft being softer and wearing rather than the bearing. Do yous reckon it’s it normal the shaft moves in and out of the bearing like that? Doesn’t seem normal to me, but as I’m no expert with the LC4 I might be wrong. The fact the whole assembly looks in such good condition, I’m tempted to replace the needle bearing only, put it all back together and play it by ear. Any thoughts? The alternative is a full rebuild to check/change the shaft or bearing, yikes for the wallet :/

I am no one to diagnose your issue from afar, but my thoughts..

I now believe that my issue was caused by a leaky slave cylinder. When I took a few of the metal pieces (still covefred in oil) and put them on a clean piece of paper, I noticed a clear ring soak into the paper before the engine oil did.
I think it was mineral oil from the clutch system. If I am correct, the bearing that went on me was the one closest to where that mineral oil would escape the clutch system.

I would say from the sounds of it, you are in much better shape than me at this point (having caught it earlier). Do you have any marking from the basket on the inside of the clutch cover?
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:42 AM   #6255
blueillusion10
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tps?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini Trail View Post
My coil connectors were fine and I was dissapointed.

I pulled the injector but I have never messed with one on a bike before. I don't know how much fuel should come out on startup. When I turn on the key the fuel line going to the injector "chubbed up" so I figured the fuel pump is building pressure. I listened carefully to it though and it seems a bit noisy.

Cranking the bike with the throttle closed produced a light mist, I just don't know how much it should be. I do know that a bosch CIS system that just pees fuel all the time would produce a wetter output at the injector.
Hey,

I had very similar issues with my 09. I went thru everything you are, new fuel filter, new injector, new pressure regulator(that one was my fault). Spent hours screwing with it. In the end it was a faulty throttle position sensor. 100 bucks fixed everything. I hate to say it but bring it to a dealer and have them plug it in to the bazillion dollar ktm computer. In a couple minutes they will let you know if its a computer/electrical issue.

good luck with it.
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