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Old 11-07-2012, 06:46 PM   #70786
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
5L liters of reserve on a tank that size is just about right, IMHO. I'd go with it, be happy!
The important thing is how much of your reserve can you use. I would strap on a 5 liter fuel jug and run out your reserve ... just so you know your TRUE range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Don't worry about rotating the Elbow. Leave it. No drilling. Main thing is to know just how far you can go on your reserve. With the IMS, about 2 liters are left once reserve runs out. You can only use that last bit of fuel if you tip the bike over. Good luck! Enjoy!
If you can use all the gas on reserve, you're good. If there's much fuel left when the bike quits, then you might have to decide if you want to 'force' the carb elbow to turn or not.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:26 PM   #70787
heirhead
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Lowering links

Hello,

Thanks for all who responded. The shock is stock but have stiffer spring on it due to my fat ass!!
The shock has been lowered already. The RED CIRCLE is fine.
ProCycle, understood OK, just will have to lower forks more to see if that is enough.
Now what about that shock spring seat height???

I must be really short!!

Thanks again,

Heirhead
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:28 PM   #70788
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Thanks for all who responded. The shock is stock but have stiffer spring on it due to my fat ass!!
The shock has been lowered already. The RED CIRCLE is fine.
ProCycle, understood OK, just will have to lower forks more to see if that is enough.
Now what about that shock spring seat height???

I must be really short!!

Thanks again,

Heirhead
lol...yep you must be a shorty You're gonna have a flat-tracker when you get done lowering
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:44 PM   #70789
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

The shock has been lowered already. The RED CIRCLE is fine.
ProCycle, understood OK, just will have to lower forks more to see if that is enough.
Now what about that shock spring seat height???

Thanks again,

Heirhead
Did you lower the shock bolt or was it done by someone else? Maybe the shock spring seat height has already been taken care of. Ride the bike, if the tire isn't hitting the fender, you should be fine. I don't have a way to show or explain how it's done. It's in the service manual if you have access to one.

Edit: I found a photo, posted it and an explanation on 11-9-2012.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-09-2012 at 06:08 PM
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:46 PM   #70790
Phreaky Phil
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddle007 View Post
Wow. Post 71,001 Great thread. Thanks for all the info and inspiration. My commuter and weekend warrior.
Nice setup.
Is that the giant loop Buck n roll tank bag? Does it work ok, ie stay up on the sides of the tank above your knees ?
I have looked at pics of these but never seen one on a DR. I have a Safari tank and it looked like the bars would hit it on full lock. That headlight looks awesome, although ive read comments on it causing buffeting/turbulence ?>
Cheers Phil
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:06 PM   #70791
heirhead
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links, not golf

Hello,

Shock lowered by PO. Riding out to desert this weekend, will test it out.

Thanks,

Heirhead
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:23 PM   #70792
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

If you can use all the gas on reserve, you're good. If there's much fuel left when the bike quits, then you might have to decide if you want to 'force' the carb elbow to turn or not.
i have an IMS tank w/ their petcock and stock carb. i did not rotate my inlet tube and thus have a loop in my fuel line. i've run my bike bone dry in the tank. i wondered if the loop would affect things at the end of fuel and it did not.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:26 PM   #70793
JagLite
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Thumb Stock carb rebuild KIT

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I had a set of the float o-rings go bad after 18 months. They cost quite a bit of $$ from Suzuki. Any other sources? How about from KTM or anothe manufacturer that uses that carb?
Jeff at ProCycle is modest and didn't mention that they carry a stock BST carb rebuild kit in addition to their jet kit.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems

They are very helpful and will probably sell you parts if you don't need the full rebuild kit.

I like to check with PC before I start searching for bits here and there.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:49 PM   #70794
Aerocycle
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Hey guys, Anyone have experience with Shinko 244s? im confused about the sizes. They offer a 5.10-17 rated at 94mph but the front is offered in a 2.75-21 at 94 mph or a 3.00-21 at 75 mph.

What are the right sizes? I rarely go over 94 mph but 75 is occasional. The 244s have mostly good reviews and I think im going to try them. Its ether those or the 700s. The sizing and speed rating is screwing with me
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:32 PM   #70795
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
i have an IMS tank w/ their petcock and stock carb. i did not rotate my inlet tube and thus have a loop in my fuel line. i've run my bike bone dry in the tank. i wondered if the loop would affect things at the end of fuel and it did not.
I agree, until he tries to ride the tank dry, he won't know. It seems some aftermarket tanks, like yours, work fine. Others get the air bubble in the uphill loop and can't use all the fuel in the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
Hey guys, Anyone have experience with Shinko 244s? im confused about the sizes. They offer a 5.10-17 rated at 94mph but the front is offered in a 2.75-21 at 94 mph or a 3.00-21 at 75 mph.

What are the right sizes? I rarely go over 94 mph but 75 is occasional. The 244s have mostly good reviews and I think im going to try them. Its ether those or the 700s. The sizing and speed rating is screwing with me
I'm running the 244s right now: a 3:00-21 on the front and a 5:10-17 on the rear. Since the DR is 'portly' and I occassionaly ride a little sand, I want the extra floatation (if it even matters). I'm thinking the 2:75 would knife in easier and I don't like that concept.

Unless I buy another FJR, I'm not going to worry about speed. Tires are rated at some 'big' safety factor and I'm ok with that. The wind buffeting at those speeds will slow ME down a long time before the tire is a problem. IMO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 10:42 PM
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:34 PM   #70796
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I agree, until he tries to ride the tank dry, he won't know. It seems some aftermarket tanks, like yours, work fine. Others get the air bubble in the uphill loop and can't use all the fuel in the tank.

I'm running the 244s right now: a 3:00-21 on the front and a 5:10-17 on the rear. Since the DR is 'portly' and I occassionaly ride a little sand, I want the extra floatation (if it even matters). I'm thinking the 2:75 would knife in easier and I don't like that concept.

Unless I buy another FJR, I'm not going to worry about speed. Tires are rated at some 'big' safety factor and I'm ok with that. The wind buffeting at those speeds will slow ME down a long time before the tire is a problem. IMO
I run full off-road knobbies on the road at 70mph for extended periods and have never had an issue. Just remember to run the recommended factory pressure in them......NOT low off-road pressures. I run 22psi on and off road with no traction or handling issues whatsoever
The speed ratings are VERY extreme......unless you run way beyond the max for literally hours upon hours (which is how they test them) you'll be fine with any decent tire.......especially on a low power dual sport. I'm MUCH more careful of tire choices on my turbo zx14 or hayabusa running in the upper triple digits tho. THATS when you take your tire pressures, wear, and ratings seriously
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:03 AM   #70797
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm running the 244s right now: a 3:00-21 on the front and a 5:10-17 on the rear. Since the DR is 'portly' and I occassionaly ride a little sand, I want the extra floatation (if it even matters). I'm thinking the 2:75 would knife in easier and I don't like that concept.
Ditto.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:27 AM   #70798
Skidmarkart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Jeff at ProCycle is modest and didn't mention that they carry a stock BST carb rebuild kit in addition to their jet kit.

I like to check with PC before I start searching for bits here and there.
Dang - I actually checked on Procycle's site first, but I didn't see a stock rebuild kit.

Next time...
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:38 AM   #70799
Rusty Rocket
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I did contact ProCycle about the 2 o-rings on the float mechanism. At that time he told me he did not have them separately. That was 2 years ago and I did neglect to ask when they went bad again. Maybe they are available now, I'll have to ask. Probably will need them again soon.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:18 AM   #70800
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I did contact ProCycle about the 2 o-rings on the float mechanism. At that time he told me he did not have them separately. That was 2 years ago and I did neglect to ask when they went bad again. Maybe they are available now, I'll have to ask. Probably will need them again soon.
Please...
if any of you want us to pull a couple of orings out of an already made up kit. Please find some other items you need to add to the order. Make it worth the extra time and effort it costs us. Shipping out only a couple of orings is a money loosing process for us. Not to mention setting aside a broken up carb repair kit and making sure replacement orings get back into it. We don't just have orings sitting in a bin on a shelf. We order in all the kit parts and package them up into complete kits and put the kits in a bin on a shelf waiting to ship out.
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