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Old 11-08-2012, 10:34 AM   #31411
Nice_Rumble
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Not a bad idea to change suspension fluid every couple of years. It will certainly enhance how the suspension works but also prolong it's life. Gets rid of that nasty moisture.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:20 AM   #31412
leftystrat62
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Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
If your seals are not leaking & your happy with the way the front end feels when riding, don't mess with it
Wasn't planning on mucking with my seals while they're not leaking,just interested in knowing how to do the repair if that occurs( I do carry a strip of film neg in my trail repair kit)., and yes we in the Northern country do have to find things to do while we're cooped up during the snowy winters,that and the oil should be changed by now. Plan on riding the TAT solo next summer from R.I to OR -can't hurt to get everything properly lubed,and fluids changed
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:26 AM   #31413
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Originally Posted by leftystrat62 View Post
Plan on riding the TAT solo next summer from R.I to OR -can't hurt to get everything properly lubed,and fluids changed
Nice!
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:32 PM   #31414
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I did a fork oil change about a month ago. Very simple to do, especially if you've got a fork oil siphon tool.

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Old 11-08-2012, 04:08 PM   #31415
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Originally Posted by scottmac View Post
I did a fork oil change about a month ago. Very simple to do, especially if you've got a fork oil siphon tool.

It's also easy to rig one up if you already have a mityvac tool, all you need to add is a length of brass tubing and a zip tie
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:12 PM   #31416
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Am I an idiot or am I going to have to drill extra holes in my CA plate in order to mount it on my new DRC edge 2 fender elim kit???

EDIT - drilled it
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:24 PM   #31417
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BUT!!!!!! Now my bloody indicator switch wont push in to return. I have pulled it apart cleaned, lubed and everything, but I just can't get it to push and return. Any suggestions on how to fix it before I fork out for a new one of these?
A couple of years ago mine was also not working. From memory the white plastic indicator box inside the handlebar clamp was a loose fit so I used a 2mm ziptie tail as a packer. It worked and hasn't needed adjustment since
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:17 PM   #31418
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I have a wr250x, has a Kenda 270 mounted on the front by the previous owner; not a bad set up, but seems to develop speed wobbles above 70... Running 30# on the road; what is recommended with this tire? If I end up keeping the bike, I will probably end up swapping the Kendas for a Shinko, but would like to take it out this weekend for a back to back comparison with my DR.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:17 AM   #31419
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Legendary!! I will pull it apart again and have a look. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by andy mac View Post
A couple of years ago mine was also not working. From memory the white plastic indicator box inside the handlebar clamp was a loose fit so I used a 2mm ziptie tail as a packer. It worked and hasn't needed adjustment since
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:55 AM   #31420
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Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
I have a wr250x, has a Kenda 270 mounted on the front by the previous owner; not a bad set up, but seems to develop speed wobbles above 70... Running 30# on the road; what is recommended with this tire? If I end up keeping the bike, I will probably end up swapping the Kendas for a Shinko, but would like to take it out this weekend for a back to back comparison with my DR.
30lbs is a lot. I'd go down to 20 and go for a ride. I run 18 in MT-21 front
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:05 AM   #31421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw View Post
I have a wr250x, has a Kenda 270 mounted on the front by the previous owner; not a bad set up, but seems to develop speed wobbles above 70... Running 30# on the road; what is recommended with this tire? If I end up keeping the bike, I will probably end up swapping the Kendas for a Shinko, but would like to take it out this weekend for a back to back comparison with my DR.
dogjaw,

I assume since your on a "X" your running mostly road (@ 70mph)? If so 4-6 Lbs under Max which is 33psi for a 270 (have the same tire) off road take it down to 18-20psi, but don't forget to air up when you return to hard surface. You may also need to check steering stem bearing for looseness and tighten up a little. Also if the Kenda is well worn but not so much to change out; recut the leading edge of the lugs(square them up) or take the tire off and reverse the tread pattern. Let us know if you alleviate your problem.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:52 PM   #31422
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Like New Again

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Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
Anyone else's license plate light really loose? I tried tightening the bolts but there is an internal spacer that prohibits making it any tighter plus the nuts are capped. Is it loose by design? Shorter bolts or a standard nut makes no difference due to the spacer.

I took a coping saw and removed about 1/4" from the end of both internal spacers. That along with standard nuts was able to snug up the license plate light. Job done!



I also noticed the LED tailight was getting loose in it's plastic housing as well. I placed washers on the ends of the bolts that secures the bracket to the sub-frame and that was enough to snug it up. Job done!

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Old 11-09-2012, 02:11 PM   #31423
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
dogjaw,

I assume since your on a "X" your running mostly road (@ 70mph)? If so 4-6 Lbs under Max which is 33psi for a 270 (have the same tire) off road take it down to 18-20psi, but don't forget to air up when you return to hard surface. You may also need to check steering stem bearing for looseness and tighten up a little. Also if the Kenda is well worn but not so much to change out; recut the leading edge of the lugs(square them up) or take the tire off and reverse the tread pattern. Let us know if you alleviate your problem.
I replied above based on what the R is spec'd for - 18 lbs. I lower mine to 12-14 for off-road.

Personally, I would go by what Yamaha says, not the max for the tire. That said, the X calls for 29 front, so you're right, upper 20s would be a good place to start. Personally I'd release 2 or 3 pounds, ride and check for the wobble, and if still present, then release 2 or 3 more and check again.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:00 PM   #31424
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Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I replied above based on what the R is spec'd for - 18 lbs. I lower mine to 12-14 for off-road.

Personally, I would go by what Yamaha says, not the max for the tire. That said, the X calls for 29 front, so you're right, upper 20s would be a good place to start. Personally I'd release 2 or 3 pounds, ride and check for the wobble, and if still present, then release 2 or 3 more and check again.
Personally, I think you just don't have enough experience to lecture like that. If I need 2500 more miles out of a set of DOT knobby's on tar to get to my trailer, I run 40psi front/rear, and so does every other old salt... If I want no pinch flats to ride a loop that will have a few rock gardens, I run 32 both ends. Whatever I give up in performance doesn't warrant a pinch flat. If I was racing an enduro or MX, I'd run much lower pressures and have rimlocks. The WR doesn't have those things.

32lbs even works well enough in sand washes miles long. Just need the right tire. Mine is a Michelin T63 or a Pirelli MT21.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:30 PM   #31425
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Personally, I think you just don't have enough experience to lecture like that.
Personally, I think his lecture is just as helpful as yours.

And even personally-er... I run around 20 psi front and rear on my R just about all the time. I've kicked it up to 30 and noticed no difference on pavement, but some difference (more deflection) off-road, and I've dropped it down to 15, but noticed no real difference from the 20.
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