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Old 10-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #61
dickosaurus
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We're enjoying your trip and your dialogue and thanks for taking the time to post it.
Buen viaje, amiga
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:04 PM   #62
Turkeycreek
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You may be riding alone but you are not really alone Deb, So many people are pulling for you and rooting you on. There are lots of ADVers and others rabidly following you RR. I have great admiration for you and your audacious plan. And from getting to know you a bit from the time you spent here in Banamichi I have no doubt in your ability to succeed. So when you are in the 4h or 6th hour of riding sola, know that we are along for the ride.

Abrazos
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:06 PM   #63
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeycreek View Post
You may be riding alone but you are not really alone Deb, So many people are pulling for you and rooting you on. There are lots of ADVers and others rabidly following you RR. I have great admiration for you and your audacious plan. And from getting to know you a bit from the time you spent here in Banamichi I have no doubt in your ability to succeed. So when you are in the 4h or 6th hour of riding sola, know that we are along for the ride.

Abrazos
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:13 PM   #64
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeycreek View Post
You may be riding alone but you are not really alone Deb, So many people are pulling for you and rooting you on. There are lots of ADVers and others rabidly following you RR. I have great admiration for you and your audacious plan. And from getting to know you a bit from the time you spent here in Banamichi I have no doubt in your ability to succeed. So when you are in the 4h or 6th hour of riding sola, know that we are along for the ride.

Abrazos

Thanks Tom, and thanks all. Your support makes a world of difference in the ups and downs of the adventure. And FYI plans changed and Guatemalan language school got changed for a school in Oaxaca. Just not traveling fast enough to fit it all in!
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:27 PM   #65
BearII
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewby View Post
...The mole from this region was also something to be had; a tasting plate in a local restaurant leaves my taste buds dancing with flavors. IMG_2279

The Cuetlas, (caterpillars)

IMG_2277

and the chapulines (grasshoppers)
IMG_2259
Both crunchy and slightly chewy, possibly did not arrive in my table with their best colors, and left a little to be desired.
I love this, it is so great to see someone experiencing the local culture and food instead of looking for the closest McDonalds!! Awesome! Great RR, loving every post.
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:44 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewby View Post
...A man carrying a machete comes out of the bushes and walks to my bike, his machete nonchalantly swinging in his hand...


"I can now accept a door being opened for me, a bag being carried, a walk to my car. I can even enjoy it. I can thank and love the men that offer, and not send a curt reply. Content that it doesn’t mean that I am not capable, but more an acceptance of a gift of another."


But still I refuse to live my life in fear


‘If I die doing something that I love, know that I have lived’.


I hope that by doing these things I advocate and show others that it can be done,
and not to stop doing something that you dream because of fear,
whether it be small like putting your hand up to complete a presentation,
or bigger such as travelling the world solo.
Wow, that was an amazing post. So nice to see a woman with enough confidence to appreciate chivalry. I admire your courage and bravery, not just in the face of a machete but every day on the road alone! You are an inspiration!
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Wandering the world with purpose...

'13 BMW R1200GS ADV (triple black) - it doesn't get any better... just had to get another one!, '07 BMW R1200GS ADV - sold after 73,000 wonderful miles together
'13 Ford Raptor SVT - wow, what a truck!
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #67
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Thanks BearII. Been away a while as been off the bike... but more to follow soon.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:35 PM   #68
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Oaxaca

A month in the lovely Oaxaca has flown by. Three weeks of Spanish school and living in a home-stay, and one week of celebrating dia de los muertos with Marcin, Sara and Dan, and other wonderful friends. It was a time to consolidate and regroup from my trip so far, and at one point, after walking everywhere for weeks, I almost forgot what it was like to travel by bike.
So a recap of the last 4 weeks in installments….

Firstly an update on the bike....
I had been having intermittent problems with the bike. The bike at times when riding at higher speeds seeming to drop into a false neutral, and while the engine was going the wheels were no longer being driven, no matter what gear I shifted into. But then the problem would disappear once I stopped and turned the bike on and off. At other times the rev meter would suddenly start flicking around, sitting for minutes in the red at 8, when I normally cruise at 4. The engine however was not seeming to be changing rev’s. But again the problem was intermittent. I admit, I wanted to ignore it. But I thought better of it...

So I took the bike into BMW Oaxaca, initially worried that I would again hit misunderstanding, not knowing enough spanish to explain my strange problems however I found the service there fantastic. Adan, the 'asesor de servico' working tirelessly to ensure that they found what was wrong with my bike, and keeping me updated by email and phone. They checked over the bike fixing my small issues with dripping oil, and my fears of my gearbox problems, they also discovered the pulse generator was faulty.

Thankfully Marcin/Huzar was also coming to visit me in Oaxaca, so the part I required was express shipped with him in 4 days rather than the quoted 4 weeks (or longer- BMW owners in Mexico city say 3 months is common) that it would take to get parts in Mexico. after receiving the parts in the morning, they fixed the bike by the end of the day, and she was shining and running smoothly again.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:34 PM   #69
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Some nice pics there! Good eye!
I've only skimmed your report ... couple things caught my eye.
I 100% subscribe to the idea of using Taxi's to get through strange cities.
I'm not a GPS guy ...and I know they help in town, but many times they are not accurate. Taxi's work for me ... but always BARGAIN hard on the rate before hand, don't pay in advance. If the driver gives you grief ... find another.

After your language school I'm guessing you've learned a bit more about the culture and are beginning to understand what Machismo is really about. A Blond Gringa will always attract unwanted attention. I hope it doesn't put you off the trip. Remember Lois's (On The Loose) trick?
Wedding ring? y .. "... me espera mi esposo." I met Lois here in San Francisco back in 2003. She had just married Austin. (or was about to?)

After 7 years in Latin America I've seen a few things. Mexico can be one of the most offensive in this regard. Such a terrible beauty.

I worry about your bike. Some very strange symptoms ... lets hope none are fatal. Waiting for parts is lost time and money. If you end up stuck waiting, consider selling the bike off. It's worth a fortune down South, even broken. Or ... you could go to the Galapagos Islands ? .. or Antarctica ... or anyplace. More Spanish classes? Or, if in Buenos Aires, study Tango. Suerte!
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:42 PM   #70
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While in Oaxaca I managed to not only develop my Spanish skills but worked hard trying to develop my knowledge of the local cuisine and cooking techniques. I managed to get a week of cooking workshop at school, took a day course with a local family where I was the only student, perused the local markets and restaurants frequently, and cooked occasionally with my home stay host. Marcin/Huzars arrival for a week also led to some brillant extended multi course meals in fabulous restaurants. Delicious!

Mole- the easy way
IMG_2524

And the hard way! Gathering some of the 25 ingredients!
IMG_2755
IMG_2766
Grinding each one down....
IMG_2772

Then cooking for hours!

Tamales are defiantly somethingI will make a habit of making at home. So many ways of making them, and filled with chicken mole they are sublime.
IMG_2627

Grinding the maize for Atole- a corn based drink that they often give to the sick. It's a lot easier to use a food processor trust me!
IMG_2548


Making Aztec soup with epazote herb
IMG_2913

Chapulines/grasshopper- that you could purchase from roving market vendors all over town! good as a snack, but better in warm tortillas with guacamole
IMG_2360

I spent ages watching the chocolate makers all over the town, where people would line up to haul away 3 kilo bags of freshly ground, warm chocolate.
IMG_2414

Blue corn tortillas with pumpkin flowers and yummy Oaxacan cheese at the market

IMG_2908

Duck tacos- exquisite!

duck tacos

The food in Mexico is brilliant, and I could go on and on posting, but I dont want to make you jealous!
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:51 PM   #71
Hewby OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Some nice pics there! Good eye!
I've only skimmed your report ... couple things caught my eye.
I 100% subscribe to the idea of using Taxi's to get through strange cities.
I'm not a GPS guy ...and I know they help in town, but many times they are not accurate. Taxi's work for me ... but always BARGAIN hard on the rate before hand, don't pay in advance. If the driver gives you grief ... find another.

After your language school I'm guessing you've learned a bit more about the culture and are beginning to understand what Machismo is really about. A Blond Gringa will always attract unwanted attention. I hope it doesn't put you off the trip. Remember Lois's (On The Loose) trick?
Wedding ring? y .. "... me espera mi esposo." I met Lois here in San Francisco back in 2003. She had just married Austin. (or was about to?)

After 7 years in Latin America I've seen a few things. Mexico can be one of the most offensive in this regard. Such a terrible beauty.

I worry about your bike. Some very strange symptoms ... lets hope none are fatal. Waiting for parts is lost time and money. If you end up stuck waiting, consider selling the bike off. It's worth a fortune down South, even broken. Or ... you could go to the Galapagos Islands ? .. or Antarctica ... or anyplace. More Spanish classes? Or, if in Buenos Aires, study Tango. Suerte!
The wedding ring I wear on my finger comes out with the first words, trust me! I have considered cutting and dying my hair, and wearing fake contact lenses to stop the intense staring in the eyes with the dreamy mutterings and wandering hands. But again, I am too stubbon to do this, its like giving in. But I have made it through 2 months of Mexico, so lets see how it goes further south.

And yes the bike....I am trying to stay positive... but it did a crazy flicking of the rev meter again since leaving Oaxaca, without the associated engine noises. A friend suggested a pice of paper firmly taped over it should do the trick!
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:59 PM   #72
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The best thing about my Spanish school, while larger than most so less one on one time, was the intercambio program. While I had spent many nights in the Zocalo talking to the locals that came up to me asking to practice their English. These were all men, and while the conversation all started with my ‘husband’ is in the USA and coming to Oaxaca next week’. Sadly they all ended in ‘please don’t touch me and no you cannot kiss me…’ While mostly harmless, it was again an ongoing drain on my want to continue to interact with the locals and practice my Spanish. The school however, organized for each student, a local English student to pair with to practice respective languages and learn more about each others culture.
My intercambio, Annel gave me insight to the local women, showed me around Oaxaca and the surrounding neighborhoods and markets, took me home for dinner and we shared many evenings laughing. I also went to her school and spoke with the class, which was an eye opener to see the school conditions, and the angle the teaching took.
IMG_2673
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:09 PM   #73
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Bikers converge

Since being in Oaxaca I have seen on the road and met up with more bikers than ever before. I met up with Wildrider, and another rider who I had met at my school, Derek, who both gave me bike envy with their light bikes and tiny luggage (both only travelling central America and not set for camping) and we went out for some rustic carne asada in the market with some other friends from school.
IMG_2565
My good friends Dan and Sara, introduced me briefly to Alicia from Spain who is seemingly on a whirlwind trip as she travels round the world with talks at BMW all over the place. That girl can cover some ground! With her at this point was “Don Solaris’ and ‘El Buffalo’ both interesting characters who had met Alicia on route.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #74
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just found your RR... sure hope your bike problems are over with!!!
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:35 PM   #75
Turkeycreek
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Nice to see you back on the air, Señorita Hewby.
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