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Old 11-08-2012, 07:23 AM   #6256
NovaMoto
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Oddometer: 133
I think you would have to have a lot of mineral fluid in the case to damage a bearing. Many of us have run our engines with a litre of coolant/water mix in the case for kilometers without knowing or without choice. I'm one of those guys & 5,000km later my engine is as quiet as it was when it was new. That said, perhaps the longevity has been compromised

Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Interesting points.

Although I don't know if it is a language barrier, mistake, or if you are not aware.. The fluid in the hydraulic clutch system is mineral oil. If this is a misconception on your part, I'm sure you must realize the difference in lubricity between mineral oil, and hydraulic fluid in that environment..

I find your theory about the way such a leak would end up in the engine case interesting, and worhty of consideration.

I did fail to mention that I was having clutch engagement/ disengagement issues over a period of months before my failure happened. Flushing the system of old fluid, and bleeding it "seemed" to cure the problem (had to do 2 or 3 times in those 5 or so months preceeding the failure).

My theory could certainly be flawed, it wouldn't be the first time.

NovaMoto screwed with this post 11-08-2012 at 09:52 AM
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:03 AM   #6257
rickypanecatyl
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Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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Fair price for new '11

Hey guys I've got a brand new '11 690R enduro I'm thinking of putting up for sale and was wondering what y'all think a good price is? I haven't discussed that particular bike much for legal reasons - its actually better than new; here is the scoop on it.

1. It's a brand new '11 that I haven't ridden or even sat on.
2. It had 2 days being set up and going over by KTM NA's top two 690 mechanics - Tyler Berner andd 1 other guys I'm forgetting right now. It was not touched by a local dealer! Most on here are familiar with my bikes reliability problems as of course is KTM NA and Austria. As they thought some of those reliability issues may have come from poor dealer set up this bike got to have 2 days time of the top 2 KTM guys going over it.
3. In addition to the stock dash/light it also has the larger 08 E set up.
4. KTM hard parts pannier racks; pelican cases.
5. Stock seat AND Renazco suede.

And lots of little stuff - any ideas what's its worth? It's in the Seattle area if that makes a difference. Did the '12 knock down the price of the 654's? What are guys walking out the door with them for?
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:12 AM   #6258
wsmc831
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Location: Central Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
Hey guys I've got a brand new '11 690R enduro I'm thinking of putting up for sale and was wondering what y'all think a good price is? I haven't discussed that particular bike much for legal reasons - its actually better than new; here is the scoop on it.

1. It's a brand new '11 that I haven't ridden or even sat on.
2. It had 2 days being set up and going over by KTM NA's top two 690 mechanics - Tyler Berner andd 1 other guys I'm forgetting right now. It was not touched by a local dealer! Most on here are familiar with my bikes reliability problems as of course is KTM NA and Austria. As they thought some of those reliability issues may have come from poor dealer set up this bike got to have 2 days time of the top 2 KTM guys going over it.
3. In addition to the stock dash/light it also has the larger 08 E set up.
4. KTM hard parts pannier racks; pelican cases.
5. Stock seat AND Renazco suede.

And lots of little stuff - any ideas what's its worth? It's in the Seattle area if that makes a difference. Did the '12 knock down the price of the 654's? What are guys walking out the door with them for?
I bought my 10 from a guy in Bellingham in April (I'm from SF bay area). Fairly stock with 4k miles, 8200. I would guess 9k or so. Friend bought the only other one in the NW for sale at the time a bit later, about 11k out the door for a new 12.


How was the 08 dash added? Sure hate the small one of my 10, though I have it covered up with a zumo 660.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:43 AM   #6259
BK.RD.RNR
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I paid $9600 for my new 2012 (+taxes etc.etc..). No setup fee.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:34 PM   #6260
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post

How was the 08 dash added? Sure hate the small one of my 10, though I have it covered up with a zumo 660.
Thanks for the feedback guys! As for the dash I haven't even seen it but will tomorrow! It has the stock one mounted but the light, mounting bracket and dash from the 08 with it; I'm hoping its nots a problem. Without question the 08 headlight is better. I do prefer the 08 dash as well WHEN it's working which on mine has never been for too long; actually it's probably the '12 but I don't even know if there is a difference.

Lightwise I've been running a FX-R, 50 watt Bi-Xenon projector which has the most brillant road legal pattern possibly anywhere. I haven't really plugged it because all though the light is 100X better than stock its cheap and not very rugged.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #6261
wsmc831
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Would love to know how they got the larger dash in there. Same dash on my 08 duke, friends 08 e, and 2012 r...but different connector from my 2010, worthless dash. More room behind the light like 08/12 sure would be nice as well...
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:10 PM   #6262
Pantah
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I paid $9700 for my 12 plus taxes and reg.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:33 AM   #6263
Reshad
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Location: Rodrigues, Mauritius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Interesting points.

Although I don't know if it is a language barrier, mistake, or if you are not aware.. The fluid in the hydraulic clutch system is mineral oil. If this is a misconception on your part, I'm sure you must realize the difference in lubricity between mineral oil, and hydraulic fluid in that environment..

I find your theory about the way such a leak would end up in the engine case interesting, and worhty of consideration.

I did fail to mention that I was having clutch engagement/ disengagement issues over a period of months before my failure happened. Flushing the system of old fluid, and bleeding it "seemed" to cure the problem (had to do 2 or 3 times in those 5 or so months preceeding the failure).

My theory could certainly be flawed, it wouldn't be the first time.
No doubt about it, mineral oil won't be a very good lubricant compared to the recommended Motorex, but for a significant drop in overall lubricity, I think you would need to have more mineral oil go in than seepage amounts. My clutch has mostly been fine though i must admit, recently, on a few occasions it didn't go straight into neutral as it always has...might be a sign. Will dismantle my slave, see what I find and report back.

Did you ever manage to lay your hands on another engine to replace your damaged one?
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:48 AM   #6264
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reshad View Post
No doubt about it, mineral oil won't be a very good lubricant compared to the recommended Motorex, but for a significant drop in overall lubricity, I think you would need to have more mineral oil go in than seepage amounts. My clutch has mostly been fine though i must admit, recently, on a few occasions it didn't go straight into neutral as it always has...might be a sign. Will dismantle my slave, see what I find and report back.

Did you ever manage to lay your hands on another engine to replace your damaged one?
As of yet I have not repaired mine... I did however go out and get a new 2012 690E. I have not decided if I will bother repairing the 08, or just use it for parts etc...


Speaking of which, I have a number of NTO, and used parts taking up space in the garage. I doubt that I'll sell any of the NTO stuff at this point, but I have an 08 stock muffler, the tailrack with the horseshoe thingy on it, an 08 stock seat (with damaged seat pan), and some other stuff.

If somebody needs something, feel free to pm me.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:11 PM   #6265
Gros Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reshad View Post
Next logical step to me is to heat up the nut a bit and try again... Any recommendations on how to proceed?
At 212 F, Red Loctite looses roughly 30% of its strength. It looses 80% at 300 F.

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Old 11-10-2012, 09:17 PM   #6266
Reshad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
At 212 F, Red Loctite looses roughly 30% of its strength. It looses 80% at 300 F.

Paul Jr
Cheers Paul Jr. I managed to get the nut loose in the end, but good facts to know for future reference.
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:55 AM   #6267
Reshad
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I've completely dismantled my clutch; everything I could check with the service manual is in spec and my only remaining concern is the ~0.5 mm axial play in the mainshaft. Could this be normal? ...no mention in the manual! Looking at the half washers, since they could decrease axial play when the clutch is assembled, I see they both appear to be crushed, or maybe it's just the normal finish, would greatly appreciate your views. They both measure 2.95 mm in thickness, does anyone know if this is in spec, as there is nothing noted in the service manual on this. Similarly, the stepped washer i measure is 5.1 mm in thickness, is this in spec? Cheers
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:19 AM   #6268
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantah View Post
I paid $9700 for my 12 plus taxes and reg.
Nice bike...

You from RI Pantah ?
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:36 AM   #6269
Pundy
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Location: North of North New Portland
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Frank, you need a 690, it's the greatest all around bike. You'd love it for the type of adventuring you do.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:04 AM   #6270
Pantah
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Nice bike...

You from RI Pantah ?
Thanks. I live downtown Boston in a high rise.
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