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Old 11-13-2012, 03:48 PM   #16
Strong Bad
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Plenty! Hahahaha! I'm thinking the dual shield is a wee bit of an over kill.........Stick with the normal mig side of that thing!
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:48 PM   #17
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Update:
I finally got something cobbled together. Trial and error fit at this point. On version 1.3 right now.


This tab will have to be redone. Too much interference with the exhaust header.

Rear mount tabs will be bolted to a long 1/2" bolt that will run through the centerstand pivot shaft. There will be spacers made to fill the gap between the centerstand and the tabs.



I'm thinking of redoing this tab coming vertically from the outside face at 45 degrees tilted forward. It's gonna be tight but it can't be left off.
The square tube is 1.25" diameter for reference.

I got bored and made up a heavy duty coat rack for motogear.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:56 AM   #18
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Nice work! Keep up with the pictures!

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Old 12-16-2012, 03:23 PM   #19
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Version 1.4 is very close to correct.
The bracket just kisses the exhaust so I need to grind down just a couple spots.
I'm happy how snug it fits around the oil pan and centerstand. Some told me to remove it but I believe I can retain it for chain service.



While I was here, I replaced the shifter shaft seal which is a known issue on CB's

Megadeus screwed with this post 12-16-2012 at 05:19 PM
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:33 PM   #20
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Update...
Subframe is finished.. now for the attachment rods.

I'm just hacking it.... har har.....

What do you guys think of using 3/4" high carbon steel rod and attaching a 1/2 bolt to the end to thread into a female base heim joint?



1/2" inch bolt shank welded to a 3/4" steel rod. Bad idea?




This is the rail that will be stich welded to the bottom of the CB's subframe. It will be the bike side attachment points for the low side struts...



DIY connection.. Do you think I put enough heat into that piece? Thats about 4 passes total all around.

Yes, I'm rusty at welding. Remembering more everyday now.




Cleaned up some of the slag mess on my catshit welds and mock fitted to the bottom rail heim joint.

Would you buy that for a dollar?

I could try other ways of creating struts. I have 1 1/4" box steel tubing at my disposal but it's a bit wide or I might have to goto a bigger hiem joint to accomodate the bigger strut.

This is not going to be a very heavy sidecar so do you think a 1/2" bolt shank is enough beef to handle that level of stress? The strut illustrated will be the lower rear.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:23 PM   #21
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On the way home I thought of something else that might work.

I could fill in the area between the nut and 3/4" shank with weld till it is one continuous even cylinder. That would eliminate any possibility of adjustment at that point.

To alleviate the adjustment problem, I could cut the 3/4" rod in the middle and find a split sleeve to join the 2 pieces and allow for axial adjustment.

Just a thought.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadeus View Post
Update...
Subframe is finished.. now for the attachment rods.

I'm just hacking it.... har har.....

What do you guys think of using 3/4" high carbon steel rod and attaching a 1/2 bolt to the end to thread into a female base heim joint?



1/2" inch bolt shank welded to a 3/4" steel rod. Bad idea?

.
I think that butt weld has the potential to be a massive failure. Would hate to see an injury related to that. I'm all for a frugal build, but not when it comes to safety.
Any farm implement supply will offer different length threaded struts for a reasonable price.
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:15 AM   #23
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The biggest hurdle I face around here is finding threaded rod that will fit that heim joint. A lot of the stores that are old standbys are closing up or have nothing in stock. (grainger, fastenal, etc...) 'Oh we can have it shipped to you in 3-7 business days'.

Another idea? Would a male hiem joint and a female thread sleeve welded to the inside perimeter of a steel square tube work better?
** scratch that **

Dang it, everything grainger has been offering has gone down hill. All of their threaded rod is class 1a.... shit...

I'll check out Union Bearing in town and see what they have to offer.


In regards to that butt weld, I'm going to build weld up 90 degrees to the butt weld joint. I'm using a 400 amp welder that can blow through that rod if I really wanted to. The penetration on that butt weld is pretty deep on the practice joint I tried earlier. There is a reason why the rod is blued 3 inches from the weld.

Megadeus screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 08:43 AM
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:06 PM   #24
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I decided to lay down another layer of weld around the butt weld. I didn't grind it smooth this time. Just a little wire brush action...

That Miller sure does lay it down pretty nice...

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Old 12-28-2012, 09:42 PM   #25
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After doing more research, I'm going to redo that butt weld again.

Stay tuned...
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:04 PM   #26
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After reviewing my work on the strut and digging through some old notebooks I have for reference. I came to the conclusion my original buttweld was complete shit.

First mistake was over welding the F out of the steel with multiple passes. I had forgotten about the effects of the 'Heat Affected Zone' and the resulting embrittlement. 2nd mistake was prepping the joint as a square edge butt joint.
The correct prep is to grind the joints into chisel ends and leave a 1mm gap for maximum penetration on the 1st pass.
Set the welder to 25 volts and wire speed to 225. Strike that first weld and watch the magic happen. The puddle pulled a nice little buttonhole void ahead of the arc. This told me the native metal was being pulled into the puddle. Success! Finished the 1st pass and had a bit of warping but the 2nd pass on the opposite side warped it back to the correct alignment. It took just 2 more passes on each side to fill the crevasse and the weld was even with the rod width. This method was a lightbulb eureka moment for me. I used to weld a lot but had forgotten some of the subtle things that make the process go like butter.
No pictures this time but it looks the part with minimal HAZ bluing. I polished the whole piece with a roll-loc disc to remove as many stress risers as possible.
Primed with self etching primer then top coated with black engine paint.
Both ends will be attached to heim joints so the majority of the forces will be axial
compression and tension.

I'm sending off the front lower velorex strut to Jay at DMC do I can have some real adjustment available for wheel lead and the like.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:26 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadeus View Post
After reviewing my work on the strut and digging through some old notebooks I have for reference. I came to the conclusion my original buttweld was complete shit.

First mistake was over welding the F out of the steel with multiple passes. I had forgotten about the effects of the 'Heat Affected Zone' and the resulting embrittlement. 2nd mistake was prepping the joint as a square edge butt joint.
The correct prep is to grind the joints into chisel ends and leave a 1mm gap for maximum penetration on the 1st pass.
Set the welder to 25 volts and wire speed to 225. Strike that first weld and watch the magic happen. The puddle pulled a nice little buttonhole void ahead of the arc. This told me the native metal was being pulled into the puddle. Success! Finished the 1st pass and had a bit of warping but the 2nd pass on the opposite side warped it back to the correct alignment. It took just 2 more passes on each side to fill the crevasse and the weld was even with the rod width. This method was a lightbulb eureka moment for me. I used to weld a lot but had forgotten some of the subtle things that make the process go like butter.
No pictures this time but it looks the part with minimal HAZ bluing. I polished the whole piece with a roll-loc disc to remove as many stress risers as possible.
Primed with self etching primer then top coated with black engine paint.
Both ends will be attached to heim joints so the majority of the forces will be axial
compression and tension.

I'm sending off the front lower velorex strut to Jay at DMC do I can have some real adjustment available for wheel lead and the like.

Sounds like an excellent plan, carry on!
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:31 PM   #28
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Update:

Spend some money on bits for connections. Waiting on the products to be shipped. In the meantime:

Prep n' paint! Ooo... Purday!


Acid Etching primer


Cleaning threads and collets


Shock tower. This thing was Nasty!



Sidecar frame with final coat. I hit it with a flat black 1st coat then top coated with gloss black. I like the semi-gloss finish.

The hack transformation will be very soon. Just waiting for the big brown truck!
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #29
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Awww yeah!!!

The subframe fits very nicely. No kludging required!!

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Old 01-23-2013, 03:07 AM   #30
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Had you fitted the chair on the correct side, it would have been so muc easier!

Great work though.
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