ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Battle scooters
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-19-2011, 08:10 PM   #61
THE_SHRUB
Potted plant
 
THE_SHRUB's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Oddometer: 105
Cameron, it sounds like you have a busted CDI. On the elite 150 it is common for the engine to start strong and have full power one time, then you go to run it later that day and it running like crap, then goes back to running well when the CDI is not working properly

Replace the CDI and I think you will find yout troubles will be solved
__________________
-1984 Honda elite 150 "Thumper"
THE_SHRUB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 08:19 PM   #62
Cameron1977
n00b
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEDI 2.0 View Post
Passed by one o those radar-trailer setups that tells you if you're speeding. ...76mph . ..on THIS bad boy! . ....It's the same type of scoot as Cameron's, that yellow one.

SOOO tempted to go this route with mine too, it looks great! how do you manage the foot brake though?


If anyone else has an 87. . . panel sets are available on ebay for 220 +shipping.
__________________
Cameron
http://cameroncharles.me

Cameron1977 screwed with this post 06-19-2011 at 08:35 PM
Cameron1977 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #63
Cameron1977
n00b
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 7
great, you are probably right. the water part of this is confusing me though.

has anyone tried these "performance" CDIs on ebay? what does it do, remove a rev limiter or something?

Quote:
Originally Posted by THE_SHRUB View Post
Cameron, it sounds like you have a busted CDI. On the elite 150 it is common for the engine to start strong and have full power one time, then you go to run it later that day and it running like crap, then goes back to running well when the CDI is not working properly

Replace the CDI and I think you will find yout troubles will be solved
__________________
Cameron
http://cameroncharles.me

Cameron1977 screwed with this post 06-19-2011 at 08:30 PM
Cameron1977 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2011, 01:09 PM   #64
btcn
Beastly Adventurer
 
btcn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Morgan Hill CA
Oddometer: 2,880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameron1977 View Post
great, you are probably right. the water part of this is confusing me though.

has anyone tried these "performance" CDIs on ebay? what does it do, remove a rev limiter or something?

Yep, THE_SHRUB nailed it. These CDIs suck and fail ALOT on Elite 150s.

I do have a high performance No Rev Limit Monster CDI. Paid $39 shipped for it and it works great no problems.

As for the performance, it really does nothing. Rev limit or not it doesn't matter.

See, Elite 150s top speed, unlike most bikes are limited by HP, NOT RPM limit. This is part of the low stress engine design. Basically the power curves start to flatten out all of the sudden at higher RPMs. So when your running WOT there is just no power left. Thats why the Elite 150 is so slow after 50 MPH. It will slowly pull to 60-65+ MPH, but that takes years and a tailwind plus lessons from professional Moto GP champions on aerodynamics and tucking in! Not to mention a $3,000 super dynamic racing suit+helmet!

JEDI 2.0 says the stock CDI Rev Limit doesn't kick in until around 76-80 MPH or something like that.

I would actually suggest an aftermarket CDI for reliability and longevity over the stock unit, look at Monster Scooter Parts. Great pricing and quick shipping. NOT cheap Chinese CDIs on Ebay though.
btcn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2011, 04:45 PM   #65
D0N
Banned
 
D0N's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: upstate NY
Oddometer: 280
Thumb

I put a UNI dual layer filter on mine and it seems to have made a difference in the low end power. It sounds better too.

I will say that every once in while... when I've just started it and it isn't warmed up, the engine is super "doggy". Like it's running at 1/2 power. This always goes away within a few minutes (about a 1/2 mile of riding).

I'd like to hear more about derestricting the exhaust that JEDI spoke about in this thread. Anyone have pics or a how-to guide?

Here's a pic I took today.



D0N screwed with this post 06-20-2011 at 05:02 PM
D0N is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2012, 05:25 PM   #66
outofcontrol
Gnarly Adventurer
 
outofcontrol's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Portlandia
Oddometer: 119
70mph!!! and 80-90mpg???

I know this is an old post, but it brings up my new questions. 70mph! and 80-90 mpg???

I just filled up for the 3rd time since I bought this scooter and I'm not quite getting the MPG that I thought I'd get.
51.0 mpg 1st
50.3 mpg 2nd tank


On this most recent tank I'm going to adjust the nut behind the bars and see if it's just my right hand causing the damage. I also dumped a little Seafoam in there for this tank. All my riding is around town and suburbia in Portland. Lots of hills, almost zero freeway. I took her out on the freeway once just to see what she'd do; in a tuck after a mile or so I think I saw 60mph. But it's hard to find a stretch of highway that's flat...and long enough.

The PO had adjusted the brakes too tight and they were dragging, but that was fixed after the first 30 miles. New air filter, plug, carb cleaned twice, new carb-to-head boot, oils, coolant, etc.

I did fix a gas leak coming from the fuel gauge sender unit, but was only when the tank was super full, and that was on the first tank. I do smell gas in the garage after the scoot is hot, but it's so faint, and there's no fuel dripping from it.

Otherwise she purrs like a kitten, and goes just fine. I honestly don't want more speed, I have a Liter bike for that. Plus I don't want to be tempted to take it on the freeway. I just want her to run perfectly... and get 70MPG! That was the whole idea (excuse) behind this scoot anyway.

Thanks,
Kevin
outofcontrol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 05:20 PM   #67
HandKPhil
Gnarly Adventurer
 
HandKPhil's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Southeast Michigan
Oddometer: 454
My '87

I took my '87 Elite 150 out for a blast around the neighborhood early this morning, before waxing it and putting it up for sale on Craigslist. I've got 4 bikes in the stable now (including my new Majesty), and there's no room left in my garage.

I average about 75 mpg. from mine, and my top speed is 61-62 mph with my large, 230lb. butt in the saddle.

__________________
HandKPhil
HandKPhil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 08:15 PM   #68
Warney
Studly Adventurer
 
Warney's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Omaha, Ne
Oddometer: 559
That 1987 Elite 150 is in amazing condition, details?
Warney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2012, 06:49 AM   #69
HandKPhil
Gnarly Adventurer
 
HandKPhil's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Southeast Michigan
Oddometer: 454
My '87 Elite 150

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warney View Post
That 1987 Elite 150 is in amazing condition, details?

Thanks. I don't want to hijack the original poster's thread with an ad for my bike, so I'll keep it short.

I bought my '87 about three years ago from the guy who bought the bike originally back in '87. When I got it in was dirty, dusty, and didn't run well, but after cleaning it up and doing the usual tank and carb cleaning, changing fluids, filters, tires, etc. it ran great.

I totally went through it and had the rear brakes and brake switch replaced by the dealership, added Honda rear shocks from a clean, low-mileage CL360, replaced the rollers, and rode the bike for two summers. I stored the bike properly last fall, and didn't get it out of storage until about a week ago, when a guy at work said he wanted to buy it. Of course after I filled it with gas, re-installed the battery, etc. the guy changed his mind without ever even coming over to look at the bike. After that I figured since I don't use it anymore, it's time to sell.
__________________
HandKPhil
HandKPhil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2012, 01:36 PM   #70
outofcontrol
Gnarly Adventurer
 
outofcontrol's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Portlandia
Oddometer: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by HandKPhil View Post
Thanks. I don't want to hijack the original poster's thread with an ad for my bike, so I'll keep it short.
I don't think you're really hijacking a thread since the OP's inquiry was made in 2006. There's a lot of good info here that anyone can use. That's a good looking scoot, and I think I read your thread about the renewal of this scoot- another good source of info.

I mentioned that I could smell gas around my scoot in the garage, and the more I thought about it, that could only mean one thing: it was leaking gas. The 2 most probable things would be the vacuum operated petcock and/or the float valve. So last night I pulled the fuel line and tested the petcock, and it was passing about 1 drop every 10 seconds. Because I removed the broken in-tank screen and replaced it with an in-line filter, I'm guessing some leftover rust particles must have lodged in the petcock diaphragm. I flushed it with fuel and it is holding now. But that means that my float valve is leaking too.

1 drop every 10 seconds doesn't seem like much, but considering 15,000 drips is a gallon, that's almost a half gallon per day. I'm going to assume that the float valve was slowing this flow down, but even 1 drop per minute would have a serious effect on the performance of a 2 gallon tank over the course of a week. It also wouldn't leave enough to make a puddle on the ground, but enough to leave a gas smell.

Even though I thoroughly rinsed the tank after I cleaned it, there is obviously some residual rust granules, and if they got passed through once, they'll pass again.

I'm going to replace the in-tank screen, and replace the float valve. That should be cheap, and hopefully cure any leaks. A faulty float valve would probably mean a rich fuel condition, also contributing to high fuel consumption. I guess things wear out over 26 years! A little more work, and a couple tanks of gas, and I'll report back. Hopefully the result will be some better MPGs.

__________________
Current Quiver:
1986 CH150D - 1982 GS1100E - 1977 IT400 - 2004 TTR150 - 2004 CRF250X - 2005 WR250f
outofcontrol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2012, 07:52 PM   #71
Hardguy
Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Oddometer: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by HandKPhil View Post
I took my '87 Elite 150 out for a blast around the neighborhood early this morning, before waxing it and putting it up for sale on Craigslist. I've got 4 bikes in the stable now (including my new Majesty), and there's no room left in my garage.

I average about 75 mpg. from mine, and my top speed is 61-62 mph with my large, 230lb. butt in the saddle.
Hey HandKPhil, I'm interested in that Elite 150. Can you private message me the craigslist link to your for sale ad please? Thanks.
Hardguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 08:51 AM   #72
HandKPhil
Gnarly Adventurer
 
HandKPhil's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Southeast Michigan
Oddometer: 454
My Elite sold

It sold the day after I posted it, to the first guy that looked at it. I got my asking price of $1200 too. Had lots of calls and interest in the bike in the 24 hours that it was for sale. (...probably should have priced it a little higher )

Thanks for your interest.
__________________
HandKPhil
HandKPhil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 06:23 PM   #73
pradecki
n00b
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 2
similar but different performance (stalling) problem

So I got an old Honda '87 150cc Elite during the summer in exchange for some construction work I did, the scooter didn't run, I rebuilt the carb, cleaned air filter and gas filter, changed oil, and gas, replaced the rear tire, throttle cable, and got a battery for it (spark seems good and plug is pretty new). It runs now (I got it up to 45mph) but I think it might be able to be tuned a bit better and was wondering if any of you would have advice.

Symptoms: When I start the bike if I haven't ran it for a week then when I give it any throttle it will instantly die, I have to wait about 5 to 10 min for it to warm up and then it runs great. The next time I give it a cold start (later in the day for example), it will start up fine and if I give it throttle it will take off just fine. However when I let off the throttle it will immediately stall out. Its funny because if I just start the bike it idles fine but if I rev the engine up and then bring it back to an idle it stalls when I get to idle. My inkling is that it is running to lean and that I need to adjust the air-to-fuel adjustment screw. When I rebuilt the carb I cleaned the jets because one was plugged but never adjusted the AFR screw because it was still factory plugged and I assumed it was fine. A few times I have also noticed when at mid throttle that the engine (rarely) will seem to miss-fire, just like the engine is quiet and combustion doesn't occur for one stroke. Also I noticed the stalling problem to be more prevalent on cold days (40 deg F) than warm days (80 deg F) which made me think it was too lean because the air is denser on a cold day. Today driving home from school I had to keep giving it throttle at the first few stop signs I came to in order to keep it from stalling. Also I noticed that the idle speed seems to change, sometimes after riding the idle will be real fast, but I have the idle set screw adjusted just fast enough so that the engine sounds smooth when I start it and doesn't sound like its about to stall constantly.

Does this sound like the bike is running too lean? Should I pull the carb back off, drill out that plug and try adjusting that AFR screw? Or does it sound more like valve adjustment is bad? This is the first scooter I have ever worked on (I'm more of a car guy) so I don't have much experience to know what other culprits could be causing this. Any advice is appreciated.

One other small thing occasionally when I press the rear-brake pedal the brake doesn't release itself and I have to reach down and press the lever on the rear wheel back so that the rear-brake releases. I assume something needs to be greased or maybe the return spring is fatigued. Anyone else have this problem? A related problem is that I really have to press the rear-brake pedal hard in order to start the bike even though the rear-brake light comes on when tapping the rear brake pedal very lightly, is this a sign that rear brake light switch just needs to be replaced, or is it more likely a sign the rear brake pads are worn or need adjustment?
pradecki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2012, 12:52 PM   #74
outofcontrol
Gnarly Adventurer
 
outofcontrol's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Portlandia
Oddometer: 119
First, you should start a new thread because any good answers will get lost in the subject matter of this thread.

2. I would go back through the Carb and clean out everything. Including the air screw. There could be lacquered fuel completely blocking that circuit. Make sure there aren't any holes in the diaphragm too. How did you clean the plugged jets?

3. Check the operation of the "bystarter". It's a common culprit and when the part fails, it screws up the whole carb. It's basically an electric choke and as it heats up it closes a fuel circuit that enriches the starting mixture.

4. replace the intake boot between the carb and the head. Just buy a Chinese replica part for ~$6-9 (it's not something that needs finite tolerance) If it's not leaking now, it will be soon.

5. Valves are easy to check, but I doubt you have a problem there.

6. Put a clear in-line fuel filter on the fuel line. I had so much fuel tank rust going down the line that it was messing with my float valve and causing ill carburetion. The little screen in the tank had failed.

7. You pretty much have to turn the bike upside down to trouble shoot the brake pedal. You're right on track there. Lube the connections, and check/replace the spring.

8. I think the brake switch and starter interlock switch are two different switches. And yes, I have to floor my brake pedal to start the bike too.

Good luck,
Kevin
__________________
Current Quiver:
1986 CH150D - 1982 GS1100E - 1977 IT400 - 2004 TTR150 - 2004 CRF250X - 2005 WR250f
outofcontrol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2012, 06:22 PM   #75
Wentwest
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Northern California
Oddometer: 376
The answers you got are right, except for the sticky brake. The problem is the shaft at the rear wheel. The brake cable pulls on an arm that rotates a shaft that goes through the rear hub. The shaft gets dirty and sticky from water and old grease. You have to remove the rear wheel, then disconnect the arm from the shaft (note there are a couple of splines missing on the shaft that line up with the arm), then pull the shaft out, clean it up good, clean out the hole, grease it lightly and put it all together again.

And you almost for certain have a bystarter that isn't working. Check all the electric connections.
Wentwest is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014