ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-15-2012, 05:15 PM   #49021
bomber1965
Duel
 
bomber1965's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Oddometer: 2,807
Quote:
Originally Posted by absoluteclint View Post




..... Think of some way to self-rescue... Maybe bring a come-along with me on solo rides.

Anybody have experience with a come-along, dual sports, and mud? Anyone know of a good compact come-along?



If you were stuck without help and needed to self-extricate..... using downed tree limbs to form a tripod then use rope and pulleys.






Work smarter...not harder, like these guys.


bomber1965 screwed with this post 11-15-2012 at 05:53 PM
bomber1965 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 05:23 PM   #49022
XR BADGER
Adventurer
 
XR BADGER's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Location: SO CAL
Oddometer: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I used JB Weld to attach my non Manracks case saver. It has held up great .

Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
+1 on JB weld, I wouldn't trust silicone to hold up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barron View Post
+2 on the JB weld. I used a dremel to rough up the case surface and the back of the saver then taped off the area that I wanted the JB weld on as Steve advised me in the past . It worked out great. I wouldn't trust the silicone to hold up either, just doesn't seem like the right tool for the job.

Here's a pic of mine...



-Barron
Thank you, jb weld it is. Also, just got the acerbics tank, so should be a fun install weekend!
__________________
2007 XR650L, Dave's carb mod's, XR'S only smog kit, XR'S only skid plate, Acerbis 5.8 tank, CRF 450 front fender...
XR BADGER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 08:30 PM   #49023
super samurai
Gnarly Adventurer
 
super samurai's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: port orchard,wash.
Oddometer: 316
I read that the tusk heated grips draw 36 watts but on the resistor for high says 10 watts. Anyone know what they really draw?
__________________
i know my clear tank is ugly!
super samurai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 08:35 PM   #49024
super samurai
Gnarly Adventurer
 
super samurai's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: port orchard,wash.
Oddometer: 316



Got mine installed just gotta wire them up.
Didnt think about having the throttle wore has gotta have some play in the wires. I heat shrinked the wires for clean look and made an aluminum mount for the toggle. Then put a rubber toggle boot on switch for water proffing.
__________________
i know my clear tank is ugly!
super samurai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2012, 11:01 PM   #49025
pngaudioguy
Just...one...more...
 
pngaudioguy's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Belgium
Oddometer: 465
Quote:
Originally Posted by super samurai View Post
I read that the tusk heated grips draw 36 watts but on the resistor for high says 10 watts. Anyone know what they really draw?
They probably draw 36 watts, as you read. That resistor usually goes on the low setting of the switch. It reduces the voltage through the actual heating coils. If you wired it on the high setting, not to worry, just flip the label around :). If you're wanting to conserve electrical power because of our whimpy stator, you might want to look into a pulse width modulated heat controller, which cycles the power on and off to reduce the heat instead of just soaking it up with a resistor.

Apparently, a cheap alternative single setting PWM is a heavy duty signal flasher, according to some others here on ADV.

I'm guessing your install diagram looked like this one from another thread on here. If so, then it is in fact most likely wired on the low setting, since usually the opposite pins are the ones that make contact when you flip a switch.
pngaudioguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 01:40 AM   #49026
Sourjon
TAT'erd
 
Sourjon's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Oddometer: 2,051
I made a heated vest and controller several years ago and used a DC motor controller for the heat control. That diagram will draw full power regardless of setting. The resistor just burns off the excess. The motor controller cycles the power off and on at a rate based on the knob position. Works like a charm.

MX033: PWM DC Motor Speed Control Module

Dimensions: 3.09 x 1.64 x 1.2 inch
Price: $20.95



Put it in this box and seal it up.
FB04: Multipurpose Box
Price: $4.95



John
__________________
Endeavor to suck less--Gaspipe
I would rather be riding an imperfect bike than waiting around for perfection. --JDowns
Sourjon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 06:04 AM   #49027
super samurai
Gnarly Adventurer
 
super samurai's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: port orchard,wash.
Oddometer: 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by pngaudioguy View Post
They probably draw 36 watts, as you read. That resistor usually goes on the low setting of the switch. It reduces the voltage through the actual heating coils. If you wired it on the high setting, not to worry, just flip the label around :). If you're wanting to conserve electrical power because of our whimpy stator, you might want to look into a pulse width modulated heat controller, which cycles the power on and off to reduce the heat instead of just soaking it up with a resistor.

Apparently, a cheap alternative single setting PWM is a heavy duty signal flasher, according to some others here on ADV.

I'm guessing your install diagram looked like this one from another thread on here. If so, then it is in fact most likely wired on the low setting, since usually the opposite pins are the ones that make contact when you flip a switch.
Yup same diagram, forgot that it is the low side of the switch the way it throws it.
I am not too concerned for juice, my headlight is hid 35 watts and my 2 extra lights are a total of 6 watts and the grips are 36 watts, so a total of 77 watts on high beam with grip heaters on wont be bad.low beam will be 71 watts.
__________________
i know my clear tank is ugly!
super samurai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 06:47 AM   #49028
Cumbacheech
XRated
 
Cumbacheech's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Bolton, ON
Oddometer: 823
Anyone know if a front break rotor will work on the rear?
__________________
2001 XR650L - Done for now...!!

Pics: Adventure setup, SUMO setup, Dirt setup
Cumbacheech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 07:01 AM   #49029
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
ThumpnRed's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,399
Where are you gents drawing power from for your grip heaters? Running a wire to the battery? Tapping into the wiring harness? I would like to run mine on a keyed circuit if possible so I don't have to worry about killing the battery when I forget to turn off the toggle switch. Mine should be here today or tomorrow, so the install shall begin soon
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
ThumpnRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 07:27 AM   #49030
mrfixit54016
Wisconsin Dual Sporter
 
mrfixit54016's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Hudson, WI
Oddometer: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
Where are you gents drawing power from for your grip heaters? Running a wire to the battery? Tapping into the wiring harness? I would like to run mine on a keyed circuit if possible so I don't have to worry about killing the battery when I forget to turn off the toggle switch. Mine should be here today or tomorrow, so the install shall begin soon

Direct wire from the battery with a fuse in it to a 12V relay. The relay is turned on and off via your key switch. Just tap into any positive wire such as the headlight power to activate the relay.
__________________
1994 XR650L farkled
1985 XL600R (sold!)
1985 XR600R tagged
1983 XL100S, 1980 XL80S, and 1985 ATC250ES
mrfixit54016 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 07:58 AM   #49031
kubiak
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: madera california
Oddometer: 4,809
Quote:
Originally Posted by super samurai View Post



Got mine installed just gotta wire them up.
Didnt think about having the throttle wore has gotta have some play in the wires. I heat shrinked the wires for clean look and made an aluminum mount for the toggle. Then put a rubber toggle boot on switch for water proffing.
watch out where you mount the resistor, it gets really really hot.
kubiak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 10:19 AM   #49032
Haywood
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Haywood's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Chula Vista,CA (spittin' distance from Baja)
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barron View Post
+2 on the JB weld. I used a dremel to rough up the case surface and the back of the saver then taped off the area that I wanted the JB weld on as Steve advised me in the past . It worked out great. I wouldn't trust the silicone to hold up either, just doesn't seem like the right tool for the job.

Here's a pic of mine...



-Barron
Barron, are those tires the Pirellis MT90's What size is the rear and how do you like them for the street?
Haywood is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 11:59 AM   #49033
Barron
M0DAH0LIC
 
Barron's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
Oddometer: 2,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haywood View Post
Barron, are those tires the Pirellis MT90's What size is the rear and how do you like them for the street?
Yep, that's what they are and I REALLY like them on the street. Great grip in all kinds of weather and they don't do anything crazy like cause wobble or head shake at 70+ MPH. They went on really easy and without a tube hold air pretty well. I'll buy another set when these wear out.

-Barron
__________________
1996 XR650L with a couple mods
If everyone brewed beer there would be no war.
Barron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 12:02 PM   #49034
Lane_N
Pig Wrangler
 
Lane_N's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Idaho
Oddometer: 87
I fabbed up my own skid plate out of AL Plate and right now it has no venting holes in it. What do you guys think, drill some ventilation into it or leave it solid? I don't want to overheat (not a problem right now :) but I don't want it to become a catch all for mud and trail debris
either.

Yes I already tested it out and it works great, and I know I need a case saver.




Lane_N is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 12:39 PM   #49035
ShooterDave
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Caliscrewitself
Oddometer: 1,381
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lane_N View Post
I fabbed up my own skid plate out of AL Plate and right now it has no venting holes in it. What do you guys think, drill some ventilation into it or leave it solid? I don't want to overheat (not a problem right now :) but I don't want it to become a catch all for mud and trail debris
either.

Yes I already tested it out and it works great, and I know I need a case saver.


I think you are ok and it won't over heat. Most of where it needs to be cooled is in the cylinder anyways. If you really feel as though you need to put holes in it. I'd drill a bunch of smaller ones in the flange areas. Nothing in the direct front or bottom of it. Half inch holes should be sufficient. Big enough for good air yet small enough so most things wont get thru. Don't bother drilling an oil hole on the bottom. Those things never work and always make a mess. Just take the plate off for an oil change.
__________________
My Lower 48+ ride on my XR650L - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565350

ShooterDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014