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Old 11-16-2012, 12:53 PM   #49036
flatfender
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Location: Belle Fourche SD
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cam tensioner

I took off the rocker cover to investigate some upper engine noise. I found the spring for the cam chain tensioner is faulty, loose or broken. I don't want to continue until I get some expert help. Can I replace the spring without taking the head off? thanks for any advice.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:53 PM   #49037
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lane_N View Post
I fabbed up my own skid plate out of AL Plate and right now it has no venting holes in it. What do you guys think, drill some ventilation into it or leave it solid? I don't want to overheat (not a problem right now :) but I don't want it to become a catch all for mud and trail debris
either.

Yes I already tested it out and it works great, and I know I need a case saver.



Nice job on welding-did you do it yourself?
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:55 PM   #49038
mcma111
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Originally Posted by Cumbacheech View Post
Anyone know if a front break rotor will work on the rear?

Different animals.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #49039
mrfixit54016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfender View Post
I took off the rocker cover to investigate some upper engine noise. I found the spring for the cam chain tensioner is faulty, loose or broken. I don't want to continue until I get some expert help. Can I replace the spring without taking the head off? thanks for any advice.

Yes you can.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:00 PM   #49040
flatfender
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Originally Posted by mrfixit54016 View Post
Yes you can.
thanks mrfixit!
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #49041
bwalsh
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Originally Posted by Dooga View Post
There's a lot of advice as to which grips will not play nicely with the XRL's wimpy juice-box -- what heated grips are the most XRL-friendly? Also, which is the most XRL-friendly way to tap into juice for a vest and maybe pants so that I can ride through DC's relatively mild Winter? Thanks in advance, kids. I am going to man up and keep riding!
The heated grips at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC seem to be a hot item!
Can't answer the other question but be careful running all that. The battery can't keep up with all that running on high. I seem to remember an inmate running gloves on high and a vest on low and having success but not pants too. I think that will be too much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfender View Post
I took off the rocker cover to investigate some upper engine noise. I found the spring for the cam chain tensioner is faulty, loose or broken. I don't want to continue until I get some expert help. Can I replace the spring without taking the head off? thanks for any advice.
Kind of a tapping noise? I may have the same problem. I'll be pulling mine apart in the next week or two to take a peek inside.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:13 PM   #49042
Haywood
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Originally Posted by Barron View Post
Yep, that's what they are and I REALLY like them on the street. Great grip in all kinds of weather and they don't do anything crazy like cause wobble or head shake at 70+ MPH. They went on really easy and without a tube hold air pretty well. I'll buy another set when these wear out.

-Barron
Thanks! I have an extra set of wheels I'll be putting those on. Did you go with the 120 or 140 on the rear? I could not find them in 130/18.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:28 PM   #49043
flatfender
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Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Kind of a tapping noise? I may have the same problem. I'll be pulling mine apart in the next week or two to take a peek inside.
It got noisy after it warmed up, it was the cam chain banging on the cylinder head.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:31 PM   #49044
flatfender
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Originally Posted by mrfixit54016 View Post
Yes you can.
I just got back from attempting to disassemble the cam chain tensioner and as soon as I loosened the allen head bolt that retains the shaft the rocker fits on the rocker snapped back to being under tension. It is now where the unit is supposed to be. Can I consider it fixed so go ahead and put the engine back together?
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:02 PM   #49045
Barron
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Originally Posted by Haywood View Post
Thanks! I have an extra set of wheels I'll be putting those on. Did you go with the 120 or 140 on the rear? I could not find them in 130/18.
I thought it was a 130... might have been a 140... I can't check it right now cause it's on it's way to Japan... I'll let you know when I get the bike though.

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Old 11-16-2012, 02:08 PM   #49046
bwalsh
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Originally Posted by flatfender View Post
It got noisy after it warmed up, it was the cam chain banging on the cylinder head.
Oh, different issue. As to whether yours has fixed itself or not I can't answer that...
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:23 PM   #49047
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lane_N View Post
I fabbed up my own skid plate out of AL Plate and right now it has no venting holes in it. What do you guys think, drill some ventilation into it or leave it solid? I don't want to overheat (not a problem right now :) but I don't want it to become a catch all for mud and trail debris
either.

Yes I already tested it out and it works great, and I know I need a case saver.
Good job! Looks great. I would drill an oil drain hole in it. If you are careful when you remove the drain plug, you can drain your oil without making a mess. I made a helluva mess with mine at first, but Brian got my thinking straight As far as aesthetics... I would give it hell with a scotchbrite pad and call it a day.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:30 PM   #49048
techforlife
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Originally Posted by ShooterDave View Post
I think you are ok and it won't over heat. Most of where it needs to be cooled is in the cylinder anyways. If you really feel as though you need to put holes in it. I'd drill a bunch of smaller ones in the flange areas. Nothing in the direct front or bottom of it. Half inch holes should be sufficient. Big enough for good air yet small enough so most things wont get thru. Don't bother drilling an oil hole on the bottom. Those things never work and always make a mess. Just take the plate off for an oil change.
F Dave......i still can`t understand why you think removing the skidplate is necessary to do an oil change

I remove the engine drain bolt.......pull it out just enough so it drains straight down into my pan.........then when the flow slows down i remove the bolt completely away from the oil stream.......then reinsert when done..

I remove 2 bolts from the oil filter housing.......loosen the third a turn.......lean the bike over against my leg and pull the third bolt out and let the oil filter cover and filter drop into a rag in my right hand and all the oil in the filter housing drains straight into the oil pan........when it`s drained i stand the bike up quickly onto the side stand....i get very little if any drips.....easily wiped clean with a rag.....

Pulling the skidplate off is a pain in the freekin arse,i`m lazy......and this works............

smarten up.....











B
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:42 PM   #49049
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Now back to drinkin some micro brewery beer,,,,,not sure what the hell it is,but it`s goooooooooooooodddddddddddd shit..





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Old 11-16-2012, 05:12 PM   #49050
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfender View Post
I just got back from attempting to disassemble the cam chain tensioner and as soon as I loosened the allen head bolt that retains the shaft the rocker fits on the rocker snapped back to being under tension. It is now where the unit is supposed to be. Can I consider it fixed so go ahead and put the engine back together?

The question is how did the tensioner get at the relaxed position. It has a one way clutch in it and it should always be applying pressure on the chain guide. Not the other way round.
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BMW's
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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