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[techforlife]

Originally Posted by ShooterDave

I think you are ok and it won't over heat. Most of where it needs to be cooled is in the cylinder anyways. If you really feel as though you need to put holes in it. I'd drill a bunch of smaller ones in the flange areas. Nothing in the direct front or bottom of it. Half inch holes should be sufficient. Big enough for good air yet small enough so most things wont get thru. Don't bother drilling an oil hole on the bottom. Those things never work and always make a mess. Just take the plate off for an oil change.

F Dave......i still can`t understand why you think removing the skidplate is necessary to do an oil change

I remove the engine drain bolt.......pull it out just enough so it drains straight down into my pan.........then when the flow slows down i remove the bolt completely away from the oil stream.......then reinsert when done..

I remove 2 bolts from the oil filter housing.......loosen the third a turn.......lean the bike over against my leg and pull the third bolt out and let the oil filter cover and filter drop into a rag in my right hand and all the oil in the filter housing drains straight into the oil pan........when it`s drained i stand the bike up quickly onto the side stand....i get very little if any drips.....easily wiped clean with a rag.....

Pulling the skidplate off is a pain in the freekin arse,i`m lazy......and this works............

smarten up.....











B

[techforlife]

Now back to drinkin some micro brewery beer,,,,,not sure what the hell it is,but it`s goooooooooooooodddddddddddd shit..





B

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by flatfender

I just got back from attempting to disassemble the cam chain tensioner and as soon as I loosened the allen head bolt that retains the shaft the rocker fits on the rocker snapped back to being under tension. It is now where the unit is supposed to be. Can I consider it fixed so go ahead and put the engine back together?

The question is how did the tensioner get at the relaxed position. It has a one way clutch in it and it should always be applying pressure on the chain guide. Not the other way round.

[KyoXR]

Originally Posted by mrfixit54016

Direct wire from the battery with a fuse in it to a 12V relay. The relay is turned on and off via your key switch. Just tap into any positive wire such as the headlight power to activate the relay.

be careful where you tap into the headlight power...I hooked my O2 sensor to my headlight power then one day I'm out riding and hit my high beams and poof...my O2 sensor stopped working...WTF?, hit the switch back to low beams and the O2 sensor comes back on...well...crap...one more thing to modify...

[purpledrake]

As soon as I get it legal in Japan I'll be able to reinstall my FMF exhaust, oil cooler, handguards, kickstarter, grip heaters......


Hey, Barron,

How goes the registration process?

PD

[purpledrake]

About $30 bucks ........they are stainless steel and poly.....stick them in a saddle bag and forget about them till needed.......put them away wet no problem, those others you posted would be all rusted and corroded.[/QUOTE]

Hey Bomber, that pulley in the camo bag is really slick. Where did you find this? I want one.

PD

[Lane_N]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I appreciate the input.

Originally Posted by taco250

Nice job on welding-did you do it yourself?

Taco, I cut, bent, and fit the plates, then just tacked it together and had one of the pro welders that I work with weld it out. I can weld steel passably well, but I make messes when I play with aluminum. I need more practice I guess, or more likely I'll just keep being lazy and let the guys that do it all day every day help me

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

Good job! Looks great. I would drill an oil drain hole in it. If you are careful when you remove the drain plug, you can drain your oil without making a mess. I made a helluva mess with mine at first, but Brian got my thinking straight As far as aesthetics... I would give it hell with a scotchbrite pad and call it a day.

Wayne, Thanks, I think I'll go the drain hole route and leave the rest intact. I put this on about 3 weeks ago and wanted to test it out a little first before I spent time making it look pretty, which it won't stay very long anyways. I had planned to buff it with the DA and an abrasive pad once I was done cutting on it.

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

About $30 bucks ........they are stainless steel and poly.....stick them in a saddle bag and forget about them till needed.......put them away wet no problem, those others you posted would be all rusted and corroded.

Hey Bomber, that pulley in the camo bag is really slick. Where did you find this? I want one.

PD[/QUOTE]
These are pricey... but small, light and easy to pack.
http://www.adventureengineering.com/...oducts/ez-pull

[ShooterDave]

Originally Posted by techforlife

F Dave......i still can`t understand why you think removing the skidplate is necessary to do an oil change

I remove the engine drain bolt.......pull it out just enough so it drains straight down into my pan.........then when the flow slows down i remove the bolt completely away from the oil stream.......then reinsert when done..

I remove 2 bolts from the oil filter housing.......loosen the third a turn.......lean the bike over against my leg and pull the third bolt out and let the oil filter cover and filter drop into a rag in my right hand and all the oil in the filter housing drains straight into the oil pan........when it`s drained i stand the bike up quickly onto the side stand....i get very little if any drips.....easily wiped clean with a rag.....

Pulling the skidplate off is a pain in the freekin arse,i`m lazy......and this works............

smarten up.....











B

How on God's green earth are you able to drain it from the main lug without getting it all over the place. If you remove the bolt slightly and leave it there, it sprays all over the place. I never once was able to do it without it getting all over the skid plate. Ok, well ALL OVER is an overstatement. It would always end up on the skid plate, a lot more than I would like. When I finally took the skid plate off.... it was an oily, gunky mess. It was so annoying that with the new skid plate I got for my other bike, I didn't care that it didn't have an oil hole. This skid plate is the best protection ever.

I need pics / video or it ain't true dude.

[flatfender]

Originally Posted by mcma111

The question is how did the tensioner get at the relaxed position. It has a one way clutch in it and it should always be applying pressure on the chain guide. Not the other way round.

Hey Steve thanks for your help. Good question.. could it be possible I put this together backwards? When I took the cover off I found the cam sprocket could be moved back and forth like when the tensioner is locked in the retracted position during the assembly process. The tensioner arm was pushing on the chain guide but it had no real pressure, When I rotated the cam sprocket clockwise to tighten the chain on the tensioner side this pushed the tensioner out of the way.

Then I loosened the allen bolt and it snapped back with the correct spring pressure. Now the chain is tight and the cam sprocket cannot be rotated. I put a screwdriver on it to force the tensioner in the retracted position and it moved back a quarter inch but has good pressure on the chain guide. Should I not be able to move it back any?



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[corsair4360]

purpledrake

Several arborists internet sales places sell micro pulleys and line to make your own. Harbor Freight sells one called a Rope Hoist that is "rated" at 500 pounds for $7 (http://www.harborfreight.com/general...ist-45076.html.

If you want one small that can handle higher loads the arborists supply places have the pulleys and rope. For instance at Baileysonline - one double pulley rated to handle 7,000 pounds and up to 1/2" rope is priced at $45. Two of those pulleys and your choice of rope, the length you would like to have, and you are set. Those pulleys are made by CMI and other places sell them as well. The challenge will be getting rope that is not to large, most arborists rope starts at 1/2 inch, with some down to 5/16".

Hope that helps

[Walterxr650l]

Originally Posted by flatfender

Hey Steve thanks for your help. Good question.. could it be possible I put this together backwards? When I took the cover off I found the cam sprocket could be moved back and forth like when the tensioner is locked in the retracted position during the assembly process. The tensioner arm was pushing on the chain guide but it had no real pressure, When I rotated the cam sprocket clockwise to tighten the chain on the tensioner side this pushed the tensioner out of the way.

Then I loosened the allen bolt and it snapped back with the correct spring pressure. Now the chain is tight and the cam sprocket cannot be rotated. I put a screwdriver on it to force the tensioner in the retracted position and it moved back a quarter inch but has good pressure on the chain guide. Should I not be able to move it back any?



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It should not be able to rotate backwards unless that allen head bolt, just above it in the picture, has been removed.

Walter

[purpledrake]

[QUOTE=corsair4360;20062265][URL="http://www.advrider.com/forums/

Hope that helps[/QUOTE]

Hey Corsair

Thanks. I can make my own (with carabiners and climbing rope) but the package with the camp bag looked really nice. I never thought about arborist sites! I will look into these.

PD

[Barron]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

Hey, Barron,

How goes the registration process?

PD

I haven't started yet, hopefully I will be doing it in about 3 weeks

-Barron

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by flatfender

Hey Steve thanks for your help. Good question.. could it be possible I put this together backwards? When I took the cover off I found the cam sprocket could be moved back and forth like when the tensioner is locked in the retracted position during the assembly process. The tensioner arm was pushing on the chain guide but it had no real pressure, When I rotated the cam sprocket clockwise to tighten the chain on the tensioner side this pushed the tensioner out of the way.

Then I loosened the allen bolt and it snapped back with the correct spring pressure. Now the chain is tight and the cam sprocket cannot be rotated. I put a screwdriver on it to force the tensioner in the retracted position and it moved back a quarter inch but has good pressure on the chain guide. Should I not be able to move it back any?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Your going to have to remove the tensioner and shaft and test the one way clutch. Hold the shaft (by the flat at the end of the shaft) with a pair of vise grips and see if you can get the clutch to skip when pushing backwards on it. Perhaps there are wear or flat spots on the shaft that are allowing this to happen. You do know that if the chain tension is not controlled that the chain can jump some teeth and even allow the valves to hit the piston. You don't want this to happen do ya??