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Old 11-16-2012, 01:42 PM   #71191
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Could be grounding intermittently, or shorting somehow.
This can be a tough thing to diagnose. If its not the clutch cut out plug, side stand cut out mechanism or Kill switch ... then it could be either your ignitor (pick up coil) or Stator. (god forbid) The Ignitor has gone South on a few DR650's, not expensive. Stator failure is more rare ... but expensive if that is your problem. Banish the thought. Beyond that ... no clue here.

53,000 miles is very impressive ... and tells me someone took reasonable care of your bike. But no bike likes to SIT. Marvel Mystery Oil and Stabil in fuel is a must do for storage. Your bike will run like new ... even after sitting for a year. (battery on Battery Tender of course ... I have 4)

Wait till the harvest is over ... then take your time and go through the thing. You'll get it.

I've put Highway 36 up for my "Best Road in America" many times. So far, nothing I've ever ridden comes close.
The stator and pickup coil really aren't that difficult to replace. Including the oil, filter, and parts, I replaced the pickup coil for <$100. A new 250 watt stator from Procycle is around $250 (if I remember correctly). Out of all the things that could go wrong on your bike, those really aren't that tragic. The sidestand could be giving you problems on the highway because of the greater force applied by that wind speed. If the spring is weak after all those miles, maybe the wind is blowing it down just enough to take pressure off that switch. I'm not sure how feasible that is, but it's worth checking.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:50 PM   #71192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
... but something tells me that you're not really posing these questions in order to learn anything new.
I have to say John, I'm applauding your not losing patience as everyone tries to change your mind or offer suggestions, but I wonder why you're here. You've had the DR for a while, hate it, don't seem interested (to me anyway) in hearing suggestions about how you might be able to improve it, and are actively looking for a new bike. What are you hoping to get out of participating in this thread? To paraphrase your statement, it doesn't seem like you're here to learn anything new. Not trying to be a jerk, but as this goes on I'm becoming curious.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:55 PM   #71193
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And I should say that as someone who enjoys learning, regardless of who is right or wrong, I've been enjoying this discussion because I know nothing about frame flex properties.
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:06 PM   #71194
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Kinda reminds me of the guy who started the tread on how much better a husky is than a DR650. OK go ahead and buy a husky, but I and many others are very happy with the DR650.

At some point it become like trying to argue politics or religion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyP View Post
I have to say John, I'm applauding your not losing patience as everyone tries to change your mind or offer suggestions, but I wonder why you're here. You've had the DR for a while, hate it, don't seem interested (to me anyway) in hearing suggestions about how you might be able to improve it, and are actively looking for a new bike. What are you hoping to get out of participating in this thread? To paraphrase your statement, it doesn't seem like you're here to learn anything new. Not trying to be a jerk, but as this goes on I'm becoming curious.
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:13 PM   #71195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DowDuer View Post
Hello,
Starting about a month ago my DR began backfiring while cruising down the highway. This was happening between 50-60 mph. When it backfires the engine seems to stop and then bump start itself to life again. Now it is happening mostly from 60-70. The engine does not die if I pop the clutch and pull onto the shoulder but it does not have a any power for a second or two after the backfire and the bike decelerates rapidly. These backfires sometimes come in sets.

The bike is an 2002 with ~53,000 miles on it. K&N airfilter, stock air box/muffler. California model with extra hoses and junk. I do have an aftermarket milk crate on the back but I do not believe that is the source of the problem. I warm up the bike before riding. Air temps have been between 30-60 F with fog on some days. Damp weather seems to help.

Oh, and the clutch is slipping sometimes, so I changed the oil to 20W50 and leave a light bulb under the bike so it will start in the morning. Also oil leaks from front of engine at the head gasket and base plate. I have been working the Olive harvest and have not had time to do serious maintenance in a while.

I have cleaned the air filter, sprayed carb cleaner into the carb, run Gumout and Berrymans in the fuel. Tried different gas stations with different fuels. I also sprayed the carb cleaner on the outside of the boots while the bike was running to see if there was a leak. Doing all of these seemed to have a placebo like effect, bike runs good in the morning and bad on the trip home from work.

Anyone have any ideas? I did a search and the other posts did not seem to be the same issue.

Dow
As already mentioned, it could be the pickup coil.

Another possibility is vapor lock. Stock or aftermarket gas tank?
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:22 PM   #71196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Nothing to do with the motor; motor forces are longitudinal, frame flex is mainly along the transverse plane.
No. Again, the forces from a washboard road are along the longitudinal plane, you need transverse forces to excite frame resonances. Picture a seam without any height difference between the left and right planes; suspension is not involved. I could start expounding on the physics of sharp impacts, Fourier transforms, low pass filters, and resonant frequencies, but something tells me that you're not really posing these questions in order to learn anything new.
Oh big words, getting dizzy and sleepy, must get air, brain seems to be shutting down better go take a ride before head explodes... too much information....too much
Wait wait, what was this about exciting frame resonances?
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:28 PM   #71197
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Stock petcock question

Did the search once again and didn't find a clear answer. I'm bringing a '04 back to life after it sat for couple years and have an issue (I think) with the petcock. It's a stock tank, petcock, and carb. I had the tank off for about week stored in my trailer. When I went to reinstall it had obviously leaked about 1/2 cup of gas in my trailer. Will the float system prevent gas from entering the crankcase? Is the petcock rebuildable or am I better off to replace with the Raptor? petcock I read about? If I do the Raptor deal, do I have to modify anything else? Is the Raptor a m/c model or is Raptor an aftermarket part like Pingel?
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:48 PM   #71198
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timan View Post
Did the search once again and didn't find a clear answer. I'm bringing a '04 back to life after it sat for couple years and have an issue (I think) with the petcock. It's a stock tank, petcock, and carb. I had the tank off for about week stored in my trailer. When I went to reinstall it had obviously leaked about 1/2 cup of gas in my trailer. Will the float system prevent gas from entering the crankcase? Is the petcock rebuildable or am I better off to replace with the Raptor? petcock I read about? If I do the Raptor deal, do I have to modify anything else? Is the Raptor a m/c model or is Raptor an aftermarket part like Pingel?
If you're living in Should-land, the carb float should prevent the gas from entering the crankcase. The upside to the stock petcock is that it's vacuum operated, so if there's no vacuum being drawn, it won't flow fuel. Now, since yours is clearly not on board with that plan, you're counting on the float to keep things in check. For as cheap as the raptor petcock is, I'm not sure rebuilding the stock one is worth it. If you do the raptor deal, you just need to make sure you set it to off when you're parked as it will constantly try to flow fuel. I have this petcock, and as much as I forget to do that, the float has worked just fine.
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:27 PM   #71199
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That's the best plug reading guide I've ever seen! Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Plug reading can be hard. You need to look down inside the plug at the porcelain where it meets the metal base. That is where you read the color for fuel mixture. And, I have seen some newer fuel additives make this almost impossible to do just from the additives giving the porcelain color. Oil burning can give false readings as well.

Also, you will only be reading the fuel mixture where you shut the engine off. If you shut it off at idle then that is all you will be reading. If you want to read mixture at wide open you need to do a wide open pull- chop throttle then shut engine off. Pull the plug before you start the bike back up.

And look at how many threads are showing heat (for heat range). Should be 3-5 threads showing heat. More threads with heat means you need a colder plug. Only 1-2 threads showing heat you need a hotter plug.

Here, this should make it all clear as mud! Good luck!
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:50 PM   #71200
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There's no rebound adjustment on the stock DR shock...except changing the oil weight. That can have it's drawbacks too though.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:23 PM   #71201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timan View Post
Did the search once again and didn't find a clear answer. I'm bringing a '04 back to life after it sat for couple years and have an issue (I think) with the petcock. It's a stock tank, petcock, and carb. I had the tank off for about week stored in my trailer. When I went to reinstall it had obviously leaked about 1/2 cup of gas in my trailer. Will the float system prevent gas from entering the crankcase? Is the petcock rebuildable or am I better off to replace with the Raptor? petcock I read about? If I do the Raptor deal, do I have to modify anything else? Is the Raptor a m/c model or is Raptor an aftermarket part like Pingel?
The Raptor petcock is a Yamaha Raptor ATV, I think. And it's about 1/3 the cost of a Pingel.

There are two possible leaks in the BST, one being the needle and seat. The other is the larger o-ring on the float assembly. If either one leaks, you could fill your airbox and crankcase with fuel. Add the possibility of me leaving the petcock on for two or three days is probably 100%. The stock petcock is rather expensive but the chances are that yours only needs to be cleaned out.

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Old 11-16-2012, 07:27 PM   #71202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DowDuer View Post
Hello,
Starting about a month ago my DR began backfiring while cruising down the highway. This was happening between 50-60 mph. When it backfires the engine seems to stop and then bump start itself to life again. Now it is happening mostly from 60-70. The engine does not die if I pop the clutch and pull onto the shoulder but it does not have a any power for a second or two after the backfire and the bike decelerates rapidly. These backfires sometimes come in sets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
Another possibility is vapor lock. Stock or aftermarket gas tank?
Good thinking here. My DR behaves in a similar manner when the IMS tank locking gas cap vent gets plugged. (Procycle says to fix it by poking a hole in the rubber disk under the green plastic piece. I've done that and it works for a while, but needs poking with an ice pick every now and then to keep the hole open).

[I]Originally Posted by procycle:
The locking cap has a small rubber disk inside it that acts as a one way valve so fuel doesn't splash out through the internal vent. You can access the disk by removing the rubber gasket and unscrewing the green plastic piece inside the cap. Take a sharp pointed pick and poke a tiny hole in the disk and you will solve the venting issues. The hole should be barely more than a pinhole. If you make the hole too big you might have a small amount of fuel spillage in a tipover.[/I]


Another possibility is the small filter on the breather from the carb. Mine had a tiny piece of rag sucked in there and had similar symptoms to what you describe.

Both of these would be easy to check out.

................shu
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:34 PM   #71203
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
And then I hop on the DR and I am transported twenty years back to a place I really don't want to revisit; been there, done that, I want something more.
OK Johnkol get rid of the DR and get something else . No one is stopping you,from doing that. I like a few others are wondering what you are trying to really say . Is it you don't like your DR 650 , but you have said it's a good solid bike in stock form as long as your not pressing it.You like the other bikes you have owned, fine. Go ride them I thought this forum thread was intended for the free transmission of information about the DR 650. If your really interested in riding another bike go to it. Don't let us stop you. While there has been some back and forth about ideas and fixes I really see no end game for you (JMHO). I mean your calling it down by piece from the frame, suspension and motor. If your that bummed out about it, get rid of it get the bike you want and join that thread of the bike you own. For a bike that was developed about 20 yrs ago I and others think it's a great bike. NO bike stock will ever be 100 % its all a matter of preference. If you want a KTM, BMW, Yamaha Honda ETC., get one but there will always be something someone else will add on or modify on it. Thats what I learned when i started riding in the early 70's. If you buy something that was designed 20 yrs ago yes it will be showing flaws in comparison to newer models. I remember my YZ 125 A geez was it a beast didnt know it at the time but now forget about it. I also remember when works bike didn't have 38 mm forks or over 6 inches of travel. now a days its tough to find a bike that doesn't have 8 " of single shocked rear suspension and at least 40 mm front tubes. It's all comparative after reading your posts throughout the thread I am still left shaking my head as to why you still have it, or if you dont have it why you kept it longer then a week.. my 2 cents peace out
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:23 PM   #71204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
Nothing to do with the environment; it depends solely on the impact forces.


Nothing to do with the motor; motor forces are longitudinal, frame flex is mainly along the transverse plane.


No. Again, the forces from a washboard road are along the longitudinal plane, you need transverse forces to excite frame resonances.


Picture a seam without any height difference between the left and right planes; suspension is not involved.


I could start expounding on the physics of sharp impacts, Fourier transforms, low pass filters, and resonant frequencies, but something tells me that you're not really posing these questions in order to learn anything new.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:38 PM   #71205
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timan View Post
Did the search once again and didn't find a clear answer. I'm bringing a '04 back to life after it sat for couple years and have an issue (I think) with the petcock. It's a stock tank, petcock, and carb. I had the tank off for about week stored in my trailer. When I went to reinstall it had obviously leaked about 1/2 cup of gas in my trailer. Will the float system prevent gas from entering the crankcase? Is the petcock rebuildable or am I better off to replace with the Raptor? petcock I read about? If I do the Raptor deal, do I have to modify anything else? Is the Raptor a m/c model or is Raptor an aftermarket part like Pingel?
The Raptor petcock, is indeed from an ATV by Yamaha. I bought a Raptor petcock for about $20 from the dealer. Don't make the same mistake I did. I bought the O-ring that seals it against the tank. Didn't have to, it comes with the petcock. The only thing you have to do is plug the vacuum line for the stock petcock at the carb, Oh, and remember to turn off you gas when you are done riding. I like mine and I'm very glad I made the change.
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