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Old 11-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #71221
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack82 View Post
Hi fellas........I'm thinking about getting a DR for a bit of offroad touring.I have a Gas Gas EC300 and an XR650R for the real dirty stuff but have just broken my right ankle so won't be kickstarting for a while.

If I could get a DR close to the XR's performance I'd be happy.

Would a big bore/cammed/carbed/piped DR have similar performance?

Is the Ricor shock/fork valve combo a good setup?

Cheer's Jack.
The opinion that seems to be the most prevalent around here is that the suspension is the weakest link. You'll be spending a ton of money and getting a lot done inside that engine to get the HP and torque up to an XR650R's level. However, you can spend a couple hundred bucks and get your forks completely re-done to be pretty solid.
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:26 PM   #71222
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
The bike I've been the best rider on was my ZX-7R. I think what you're believing is agility is actually a much lower weight, different rake, and possibly the thinner front tire.

Depending on the speed and the road, I could see how a fixed up DR650 would be great, but it's still nowhere in comparison to a ZX through sweeping fast turns. Even if a DR650 did have the HP to keep up, on a more open race track it's flex would be too much for me to care about it.

If a rider's hard turns are at 45 to 65 (or even under, obviously), the DR could seem like the bike to have. The 'agility' of a sport bike comes when you're taking corners faster than most states' top speed limits.
Sport bikes are obviously going to be better in the sweepers, but what I'm calling "agility" is my way of describing quick transitions from side to side and the way it goes around tight turns where the top speed isn't going to be in sport bike territory. For instance, our crest road up the Sandia mountains is a VERY tightly turning road. There's only a couple of nice sweepers where the sport bikes can let their hair down, but for the rest, even on a 21" front DS tire, I was able to stay comfortably close to some of the lesser riders of the sport bike group. I can imagine that better rubber would make it that much better, as the Shinko 705's did let go on me once or twice.
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:29 PM   #71223
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Question removing the kill switch

I've been having problems getting the bike to start, so I took the starter/kill switch assembly off the bars and decided to clean it. As soon as I popped the kill switch out, it basically disintegrated on me. I guess 12 year old plastic doesn't hold up very well to the New Mexico desert and sun. I never actually used the damn thing because it always stuck closed, so I'm just planning on leaving it off the bike entirely and sealing up the hole with a piece of rubber or something. My questions:
1. Is this okay to do?
2. When I de-solder the orange wires going to the kill switch, do I need to solder them together and make a connection or keep them separated so they cannot make a connection?
3. Anyone else done this before?
4. Why are there 6 wires on one end of the wiring loom and 7 on the other end?


Thanks!
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:45 PM   #71224
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Try a mini momentary push button type switch.My starter button broke into pieces,button fit perfect in the housing.Bought it at Radio Shack.Nice to have a kill switch.

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Old 11-17-2012, 02:53 PM   #71225
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
+1 on both points, I bought my DR650SM this summer and it is an absolute blast on the back roads and on a good day it does feel like an extension of myself...but I am not a princess (OR a corksniffer) .... FWIW I went from a 150/60 on the rear to a 150/70, not crazy about the looks but that effectively bumped the gearing up about 5% and my bike is much nicer to ride on freeways, it no longer sounds a bit strained at 70-75 mph. I need a front fender like yours for the winter though, the trimmed stocker sends water up and on to the bike and rider.
http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...cork%20sniffer

i have a 150/60-17 on the rear, and w/a 16t front sprocket, its gearing is almost identical to stock. i am considering a 150/70-17 when it's time to replace it, for that ~5% taller gearing, but even w/the stock gearing, the bike is pretty composed cruising at 80. and yes, the lower front fender is great; i found the stock fender was pretty-much like having no fender when there was water on the road.

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Old 11-17-2012, 02:59 PM   #71226
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Try a mini momentary push button type switch.My starter button broke into pieces,button fit perfect in the housing.Bought it at Radio Shack.Nice to have a kill switch.

Hm. I guess I'm just not sure exactly how the circuits are setup. When I look at the kill switch, there's four copper pads, and the orange wires appear to be soldered to the back two pads. However, I don't really know what was happening inside the switch when the button was pressed, so I don't know if I should cross the wires together or force them apart. I might check out a radio shack button though. I'm also looking at just getting an entire starter/killswitch/wiring assembly from eBay since some of the wiring looks a little rough as well.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:02 PM   #71227
eakins
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You and MeterPig should both hang out and complain how much the DR sucks. You sure aren't making any friends round these parts and at this point most probably think you're a whiney troll.

Either accept the stock DR for what it is, modify it to want you want it to be or sell the damn thing. It's a 1996 bike deal with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
I disagree. I weigh 130 lbs and both forks and shock have way too much compression damping. On sharp impacts the forks pack up and deliver a violent jolt to your arms. Shock is even worse because it effectively has no rebound damping, so on successive bumps it becomes airborne and essentially stalls forward momentum of the bike.


I think I can discern a pattern here. I rode a DRZ400E around 2002, and after a relatively short gnarly section my arms were shot: way too much compression damping was transmitting all impacts to my arms -- and the setting had already been adjusted full soft. The Husaberg FE400 that I hopped on immediately afterwards felt like a magic carpet in comparison. So I disagree on the DRZ too: it wasn't good even when it was first introduced.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:07 PM   #71228
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I'm not 100% sure how it works, but I'd guess you can eliminate it just fine and just the key only. De-solder the to wires that lead into the switch and leave them apart and try and start the bike. My gut says when they are apart the bike runs and connected it stops. If the bike runs, seal them and call it a day. If it doesn't start then connect them and start it and seal em.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I've been having problems getting the bike to start, so I took the starter/kill switch assembly off the bars and decided to clean it. As soon as I popped the kill switch out, it basically disintegrated on me. I guess 12 year old plastic doesn't hold up very well to the New Mexico desert and sun. I never actually used the damn thing because it always stuck closed, so I'm just planning on leaving it off the bike entirely and sealing up the hole with a piece of rubber or something. My questions:
1. Is this okay to do?
2. When I de-solder the orange wires going to the kill switch, do I need to solder them together and make a connection or keep them separated so they cannot make a connection?
3. Anyone else done this before?
4. Why are there 6 wires on one end of the wiring loom and 7 on the other end?


Thanks!
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:08 PM   #71229
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I've been having problems getting the bike to start, so I took the starter/kill switch assembly off the bars and decided to clean it. As soon as I popped the kill switch out, it basically disintegrated on me. I guess 12 year old plastic doesn't hold up very well to the New Mexico desert and sun. I never actually used the damn thing because it always stuck closed, so I'm just planning on leaving it off the bike entirely and sealing up the hole with a piece of rubber or something. My questions:
1. Is this okay to do?
2. When I de-solder the orange wires going to the kill switch, do I need to solder them together and make a connection or keep them separated so they cannot make a connection?
3. Anyone else done this before?
4. Why are there 6 wires on one end of the wiring loom and 7 on the other end?


Thanks!

Another quick question:
There's two wires (black and black w/ red stripe) that split out from the wiring harness about 4/5 of the way up to the handlebar assembly. These plug-in right near the throttle and are on spade type connectors. Can anyone tell me what these are for?
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:09 PM   #71230
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I'm not 100% sure how it works, but I'd guess you can eliminate it just fine and just the key only. De-solder the to wires that lead into the switch and leave them apart and try and start the bike. My gut says when they are apart the bike runs and connected it stops. If the bike runs, seal them and call it a day. If it doesn't start then connect them and start it and seal em.
Thanks! I guess I don't really stand to lose anything by just fiddling with it at this point. If I have to break down and just buy a brand new assemble with the wiring harness, it really isn't all that expensive.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:10 PM   #71231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
so I'm just planning on leaving it off the bike entirely and sealing up the hole with a piece of rubber or something. My questions:
1. Is this okay to do?


No not really it's a safety issue u must keep that button in working order. If u crash and ur hurt (or u got under the bike) it's easy to press that botton to shut the engine than to reach to the key to do it. I barely use it myself but i found out how important it was the hard way once.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:24 PM   #71232
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650SEDDY View Post
No not really it's a safety issue u must keep that button in working order. If u crash and ur hurt (or u got under the bike) it's easy to press that botton to shut the engine than to reach to the key to do it. I barely use it myself but i found out how important it was the hard way once.
That's a good point. I'll pickup a couple of buttons at Radio Shack or something to get the starter and kill switch working again. At this point, whether I cross the kill switch wires or leave them apart seems to make no difference, though the problem I was trying to solve to begin with was that the bike was not wanting to start at all. Since the existing buttons appear to be *mostly* a loss, I might just try pulling all the wires out, crossing the starter button wires, and see if it tries to turn over. If it does, then I've tracked it down to that button being my problem all along. If not, then I'm no worse off. Also, I might as well knock out that clutch safety switch thing. Do I just find where the two wires go from the clutch and connect those two together?
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:40 PM   #71233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post

I think I can discern a pattern here. I rode a DRZ400E around 2002, and after a relatively short gnarly section my arms were shot: way too much compression damping was transmitting all impacts to my arms .
Then hit the gym and pump up those arms for more muscleMust we always blame others? (i mean da bikes)

Quote:
and the setting had already been adjusted full soft. So I disagree on the DRZ too
I wouldn't talk bad bout DRZ , specially the E model. I have both bikes & they're great for what they do, i did so many radical terrains on my DRZ400 (with farkeled suspensions) from deep sand washes to miles of rocky terrains never had any issues with that bike, from the way i ride that bike should be in pieces, but it still runnig strong so as my DR6fiddy ...
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:50 PM   #71234
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
I'm not a racer or anything, but my DR actual feels more stable in turns (smooth or rough) than my CBR 600...
Then your CBR is a piece of shit!
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:55 PM   #71235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I've got no real issue with my bike. I bet my highway cruising problems would go away if I just ran on a treadmill and lost some weight

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
WTF, highway cruising is for cars.
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