The Ballad of Jane Honda: A vintage rebuild - Page 2

Mr. Fisherman · 10-29-2012, 05:01 AM

Sweet! Looking forward to watching the progress

You have had some pretty good advice given. Take your time and have fun with it.

Have you given thought to your first ride yet? It is never too soon to start day dreaming about where you'll go. It can help fuel those not so fun build days...

Randi · 10-29-2012, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman

Sweet! Looking forward to watching the progress

You have had some pretty good advice given. Take your time and have fun with it.

Have you given thought to your first ride yet? It is never too soon to start day dreaming about where you'll go. It can help fuel those not so fun build days...

I did some volunteer work this summer at Camp N-Sid-Sen along the back of Coeur d'Alene lake and kept thinking the whole way there how much better the trip would have been on a bike. Maybe I'll run her down to Harrison once she's up and running.

TwinDuro · 10-30-2012, 12:51 PM

Awesome project Randi! Looking forward to following your rebuild!

IMHO the CL350 will make a great first bike! Not only will you become intimately familiar with it's mechanicals and workings by the time you are done fixin' Jane up, which is invaluable, but the CB/CL350s are a just a flat-out fun bike to ride. They are plenty forgiving for the beginning rider (keeping in mind of course that it's a 40 year old motorcycle), but are still plenty exciting when you gain more experience.

My first "real" bike was a '70 CL350 bought as a parts bike when I was just getting into motorcycles as well. Fixing it up to the point of being able to ride it was a fantastic learning experience, and one that I wouldn't trade for the world. Once it was running and riding, thumbing the starter-button, shifting into gear and letting out the clutch for the first time was something that I'll never forget, it was that awesome!

For cleaning chrome, a trick I learned from a buddy years ago that's worked fantastic for me is white vinegar and a fine brass-brush. For some reason, the acid in the vinegar and the gentle action of the brass brush really cleans up nasty chrome nicely while not putting new scratches onto it.

As OC said, the Evapo-rust is truly "the nectar of the god's" for removing rust! BTW, the cheapest place I've found it is at Pep Boys.

Randi · 11-05-2012, 10:13 PM

Front forks arrived in the mail today. Jury is still out on whether or not they will work. Seems to be the right diameter but will need some tweaking to be just right. Dillon is going to help me salvage some parts of the old forks to cobble together one working set. I also have a new seat cover coming that will require some assembly on my part, but overall not bad. This weekend my FIL is picking up a sandblaster for his garage and I'll get to blasting some things for painting!

Randi · 11-10-2012, 07:42 PM

Looks like the front forks will work just fine. We will have to use some of the viable pieces off of the old ones and put them together with the ones I picked up off of Ebay to make everything fit right, but it seems to have been a worth while purchase. Speaking of Ebay, I took Ed's advice and picked up a pre-made seat cover for pretty cheap and reupholstered the seat myself today.

Here is what the seat looked like before:

And after a little bit of work it now looks like this:

The foam was in great shape so it went pretty smooth after I figured out a way to secure everything and McGyver'd my own trim pieces for it. I still need to add the strap back on which will most likely require some grommets since the hardware was too rusty to salvage. Other than that she's ready to go (and mighty comfy too).

Also picked up a sand blasting cabinet today and Dillon will be getting it assembled and ready to start blasting parts for painting.

OBIWAN · 11-10-2012, 08:28 PM

You can use electrolysis to remove rust. For example you can use a 5 gallon electrolysis tank (plastic). Use Sodium Carbonate (Arm and Hammer Washing Soda), a 12 volt motorcycle battery charger, and a steel rod. Add 1/4 cup of A&H soda for every gallon of water. Electricity induces the chemical reaction so, you connect the negative lead on the rusty piece and the positive lead on the steel rod. The electricity induces the reaction to move the rust from the work/piece to the sacrificial steel rod. End result: Given enough time and electric current, the rust moves from the work to the rod. Electrolysis won't add metal back where it's been rusted away, but it will help stop the rust in it's tracks so you can paint and restore the metal.

That tank looks like one from a 1996 CB750 I use to have.

dillon · 11-17-2012, 02:05 PM

So I finally got to rebuilding the forks. The ones that were on the bike were pitted to the point where I doubted thier integrity...

So Randi found a set of forks from a CM400 for cheap and got em coming in the mail. After checking em out I saw they would not be a bolt in, so I pulled em apart and what do you know, the inner tube and guts bolted right into the lower fork legs of the CL. The springs are even progressive!

The CM400 inner tubes are a touch longer than the CLs, but Im thinking we can just push em up in the triple trees if needed. I also picked up a set of tapered roller bearings for the steering head today. So after the frame gets painted those will go in and we will be able to see how these forks install. Engine gaskets should be here right before Thanksgiving, so after that we should be able to inspect the engine and ensure its good to go...

Randi · 11-17-2012, 03:14 PM

It's getting kinda obvious who does the mechanical shit and who does the pretty shit.

Live2Ride · 11-17-2012, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randi

It's getting kinda obvious who does the mechanical shit and who does the pretty shit.

So you're doing the mechanical shit.

dillon · 11-18-2012, 06:35 AM

Have you seen any of my bikes?

Live2Ride · 11-18-2012, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dillon

Have you seen any of my bikes?

Just the ninja.

dillon · 11-18-2012, 07:22 AM

Yeah youre right, that was one pretty bike...

kimel · 11-18-2012, 12:38 PM

You realize that the point at which Jane is dubbed "ready to ride" will coincide with the largest blizzard of the winter...right?

Randi · 11-19-2012, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kimel

You realize that the point at which Jane is dubbed "ready to ride" will coincide with the largest blizzard of the winter...right?

Well when it's snowing like a banshee you'd better pop back into this thread for pics of my crashing her down my snow covered driveway then!

Dansrc51 · 11-20-2012, 03:31 PM

This thread should help with my vintage Honda lust. thanks for sharing

10-29-2012, 05:01 AM	#16
Mr. Fisherman oneandahalfassed Joined: Oct 2006 Location: Eyejamnotta Sanchez Oddometer: 9,806	Sweet! Looking forward to watching the progress You have had some pretty good advice given. Take your time and have fun with it. Have you given thought to your first ride yet? It is never too soon to start day dreaming about where you'll go. It can help fuel those not so fun build days... __________________ *Round Way Round, 2 months and several thousand miles on a WR250X*

10-30-2012, 12:51 PM	#18
TwinDuro Befuddled Adventurer Joined: Jun 2007 Location: Pac Nor-Wet, WA Oddometer: 256	Awesome project Randi! Looking forward to following your rebuild! IMHO the CL350 will make a great first bike! Not only will you become intimately familiar with it's mechanicals and workings by the time you are done fixin' Jane up, which is invaluable, but the CB/CL350s are a just a flat-out fun bike to ride. They are plenty forgiving for the beginning rider (keeping in mind of course that it's a 40 year old motorcycle), but are still plenty exciting when you gain more experience. My first "real" bike was a '70 CL350 bought as a parts bike when I was just getting into motorcycles as well. Fixing it up to the point of being able to ride it was a fantastic learning experience, and one that I wouldn't trade for the world. Once it was running and riding, thumbing the starter-button, shifting into gear and letting out the clutch for the first time was something that I'll never forget, it was that awesome! For cleaning chrome, a trick I learned from a buddy years ago that's worked fantastic for me is white vinegar and a fine brass-brush. For some reason, the acid in the vinegar and the gentle action of the brass brush really cleans up nasty chrome nicely while not putting new scratches onto it. As OC said, the Evapo-rust is truly "the nectar of the god's" for removing rust! BTW, the cheapest place I've found it is at Pep Boys. __________________ "Remember, you may have to grow old, but you don't have to mature." - Red Green

11-05-2012, 10:13 PM	#19
Randi ^OP Adventurer Joined: May 2012 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Oddometer: 15	Front forks arrived in the mail today. Jury is still out on whether or not they will work. Seems to be the right diameter but will need some tweaking to be just right. Dillon is going to help me salvage some parts of the old forks to cobble together one working set. I also have a new seat cover coming that will require some assembly on my part, but overall not bad. This weekend my FIL is picking up a sandblaster for his garage and I'll get to blasting some things for painting! __________________ Ron Goldwing says "Vintage is better"

11-10-2012, 07:42 PM	#20
Randi ^OP Adventurer Joined: May 2012 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Oddometer: 15	Looks like the front forks will work just fine. We will have to use some of the viable pieces off of the old ones and put them together with the ones I picked up off of Ebay to make everything fit right, but it seems to have been a worth while purchase. Speaking of Ebay, I took Ed's advice and picked up a pre-made seat cover for pretty cheap and reupholstered the seat myself today. Here is what the seat looked like before: And after a little bit of work it now looks like this: The foam was in great shape so it went pretty smooth after I figured out a way to secure everything and McGyver'd my own trim pieces for it. I still need to add the strap back on which will most likely require some grommets since the hardware was too rusty to salvage. Other than that she's ready to go (and mighty comfy too). Also picked up a sand blasting cabinet today and Dillon will be getting it assembled and ready to start blasting parts for painting. __________________ Ron Goldwing says "Vintage is better"

11-10-2012, 08:28 PM	#21
OBIWAN Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2003 Location: OK, USA Oddometer: 118	Remove rust with Electrolysis You can use electrolysis to remove rust. For example you can use a 5 gallon electrolysis tank (plastic). Use Sodium Carbonate (Arm and Hammer Washing Soda), a 12 volt motorcycle battery charger, and a steel rod. Add 1/4 cup of A&H soda for every gallon of water. Electricity induces the chemical reaction so, you connect the negative lead on the rusty piece and the positive lead on the steel rod. The electricity induces the reaction to move the rust from the work/piece to the sacrificial steel rod. End result: Given enough time and electric current, the rust moves from the work to the rod. Electrolysis won't add metal back where it's been rusted away, but it will help stop the rust in it's tracks so you can paint and restore the metal. That tank looks like one from a 1996 CB750 I use to have. __________________ __________________________________________________ _________ Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checked by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat. ------Theodore Roosevelt.

11-17-2012, 02:05 PM	#22
dillon Low Speed, High Drag Joined: Mar 2006 Location: Spokavegas, WA. Oddometer: 1,629	So I finally got to rebuilding the forks. The ones that were on the bike were pitted to the point where I doubted thier integrity... So Randi found a set of forks from a CM400 for cheap and got em coming in the mail. After checking em out I saw they would not be a bolt in, so I pulled em apart and what do you know, the inner tube and guts bolted right into the lower fork legs of the CL. The springs are even progressive! The CM400 inner tubes are a touch longer than the CLs, but Im thinking we can just push em up in the triple trees if needed. I also picked up a set of tapered roller bearings for the steering head today. So after the frame gets painted those will go in and we will be able to see how these forks install. Engine gaskets should be here right before Thanksgiving, so after that we should be able to inspect the engine and ensure its good to go... __________________ I do stupid stuff, brace yourself...

11-17-2012, 03:14 PM	#23
Randi ^OP Adventurer Joined: May 2012 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Oddometer: 15	It's getting kinda obvious who does the mechanical shit and who does the pretty shit. __________________ Ron Goldwing says "Vintage is better"

11-18-2012, 06:35 AM	#25
dillon Low Speed, High Drag Joined: Mar 2006 Location: Spokavegas, WA. Oddometer: 1,629	Have you seen any of my bikes? __________________ I do stupid stuff, brace yourself...

11-18-2012, 07:22 AM	#27
dillon Low Speed, High Drag Joined: Mar 2006 Location: Spokavegas, WA. Oddometer: 1,629	Yeah youre right, that was one pretty bike... __________________ I do stupid stuff, brace yourself...

11-18-2012, 12:38 PM	#28
kimel I hit what? Joined: Mar 2010 Location: The Palouse, Washington State Oddometer: 179	You realize that the point at which Jane is dubbed "ready to ride" will coincide with the largest blizzard of the winter...right?

11-20-2012, 03:31 PM	#30
Dansrc51 I need a cape.... Joined: May 2008 Location: Eugene, Oregon Oddometer: 983	This thread should help with my vintage Honda lust. thanks for sharing __________________ motorcycles are a disease and riding is the only cure.

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