Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[leftystrat62]

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Originally Posted by ADVNCW

Timely. I was going to start a thread, but the discussion is right here right now!

I just pulled the trigger and cut the deal for an immaculate '09 WR250R with 1900 miles...commuting to work miles!

Bought it for the CDR next August and other trips.

What do you say, 3.1 gal tank or 4.7 gal tank?

I have been thinking I need 220 miles+ range for one part of the CDR. I could do that easily with the 3.1 gal plus my Kolpin 1.5 gal extra. And that way, I could leave the Kolpin off for trail riding, or when I do not need the long range. Last year I rode the WABDR and the distance between gas was < 90 miles.

Obviously, the 4.7 has the RANGE for big trips. But as alluded to I was wondering about possible problems not to mention the physical size affecting trail riding...

HOPE THESE PICTURES HELP ABOUT THE THE BIKE CAN BE USED OFF ROAD WITH A BIG TANK

[leftystrat62]

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[leftystrat62]

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[leftystrat62]

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Never regretted having the extra fuel,and figured if I always ride with my big tank and bags then I'll be used to it when I'm on my trips. Has worked for me so far,and all those pictures were while I was riding solo.

[leftystrat62]

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[ba_]

What tank is that?

[Crawdaddy]

Originally Posted by GotMojo?

Sweet looking R! Love the black. Whats the scoop on the wheels (they don't look like factory R wheels), and what tires (and sizes) are you running?

Black plastics kit from Wheeling

Warp 9 wheels

Pirelli MT43 rear tire:

Review: http://www.motorcycl...ire-Review.aspx

Motorcycle superstore link: http://www.motorcycl...-Rear-Tire.aspx

Pirelli XCMH front......also DOT legal and more aggressive than MT43: http://www.motorcycl...Front-Tire.aspx

[PappaBear]

Originally Posted by HighFive

Ok...let's see if I can get all these Replies in one post (from memory):

Scottmac: -

rpo83: - Difference between X & R is wheels & front brake. The X has smaller rims & larger front rotor. You might have to also change the front brake caliper to match the R rotor....I'm not positive. Makes me wonder if you could just swap the larger rotor from the X wheel over to the R wheel and keep the X caliper...?? Anybody know for sure?

Iceveign: - List of mods is long. Hhhmm....I'll give it a go in order of how I would prioritize, knowing what I know now, if I did it all over again. Here goes:
1) Skid Plate (Ricochet for me....Flatland good too, not OEM for this).

2) Flapper Mod (DIY freebie)

3) AIS Mod (DIY freebie almost...you don't need to buy a kit, just a piece of aluminum bar from Home Depot or Lowes, a hacksaw, a file, a drill, & elbow grease....plus a vacuum plug from Auto Parts store). All very cheap!

4) FMF Q4 muffler. Get rid of the constipated stocker. Disconnect & remove the EXUP cables. EXUP is valve inside of muffler stinger at mid-pipe connection. Leave the EXUP motor on...its out of way, under battery, won't hurt anything to stay put. Note: you may keep the stock header for now, to save some money. It will work pretty good with new muffler.

5) Power Programmer for fuel injection. FMF-PP for me. About $100 cheaper & easier self-contained adjustment versus Power Commander unit. Ultimately, I'll probably switch to Power Commander so I can dial in the very bottom range (1,000 - 3,500 rpm) to my liking. Can't do that on FMF unit. But this will require extra Dyno time & $$$$. So for your case, I'd recommend the FMF-PP.

6) Airbox Mod (DIY freebie). Open up the airbox a bunch to allow a whole lot more air to enter! Several options to do this. Find them throughout this thread. I went for the highest ground, so to speak.

That completes my short list of minimum mods to get the most bang for my buck on a limited budget. You would get amazingly better performance. Living with everything else stock, would work fine.

When you're ready to go to the next level, you could pursue additional mods. Here is the rest of my list. Some for performance, some for comfort, some for expanded functionality. Priority would vary by individual. Really, its very dependent upon "how you intend to use the bike".

6.5) Dunlop 606 tires: front & rear.

6.75) Heavy Duty inner tubes.

7) K&N Air Filter

7.5) FMF Powerbomb Header

8) Pro Taper "Evo" bars with oversize GYTR mounts: Henry/Reed Bend.

9) Progrip gel insert grips.

10) GYTR hand guards

11) Hebo Bar-end plugs

12) GYTR brake rotor guards: front & rear.

13) Sidewinder TI2 Rear Sprocket: 46 tooth.

14) Sidewinder Smart Chain: 10,000 psi tensile strength.

15) Sidewinder Chain Lube: Priceless....for any O-ring chain!

Note: cheaper chain & sprocket would work fine too. (I'm testing new product here)

16) Adjusted TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) to 98% (DIY freebie). Benefit unproven as yet...

17) Magnetic Oil Drain plug

18) Ram Mount (ball) for GPS. I have a Garmin 60CSX I transfer across all my bikes.

19) SAE Power Plug connector for GPS: my next install project.

20) SAE Power Plug connector for my heated clothing: ditto.

21) GYTR Tail Rack

22) Dirtbagz Rangers: my first set....Very Impressive!

23) DRC Tail Light Kit: for the Butt Tuck. Not necessary, but I gave in....
Haven't decided on blinkers yet, LED vs. Bulb. Might use the big fat Stockers. I LIKE to be seen EASILY. Prefer maximum visibility as top priority. I ride street a lot. There are smaller bulb units at local Cycle Gear for only $15 per pair. Might go that route, if OEM doesn't work out.

Also, I MUCH PREFER the "running lights"....i.e. blinkers lit at night, for same visibility reason. The Zeta handguard flashers eliminate this option. That's no good for me.

Additional necessary essentials (for me....maybe not you) depending upon the trip:

24) Wolfman Explorer Lite tank bag. Got to have it....fits perfectly!

25) Wolfman Fender Bag: put spare tubes, tire irons, & air pump in there. (don't necessarily carry on my fender. Usually strap it to my tailrack or put it inside my tank bag. But I like having the "fender" option available.

26) Wolfman Tool Roll. Nice & compact. Just right for me.

Yeah....I like Wolfman stuff. Cause its great quality made by real riders. Purpose built, super durable, good value.

I'm probably forgetting something, but that covers most of it....to date. Nearly everything I do to my bikes is performance or function related. I rarely ever do anything "just for looks". The DRC Butt Tuck falls into this category...IMO. So, I'm violating my rules a bit. I've beat the snot out of my R² in some super tough off-road rides and the OEM Tail Mess hasn't missed a beat or caused any performance problems whatsoever. Therefore, the Butt Tuck is absolutely "just for looks".

27) Future Plans: Radiator Guard & Larger Tank


TX2Whlr: - I ride Colorado every year. I plan to take R² on the Rainbow Trail near Salida. I think she will do terrific for me....with the performance mods mentioned (above). Get her unplugged and breathing air, adjust the fuel injection with a Power Programmer and you'll be having a ball ALL DAY LONG. That's the key. The WR-F models are great, but can be very fatiguing on the body after a few hours in the saddle. And, not as easy to "haul your gear".

I've rode my KLR over several passes like: Hayden & Medino. R² will eat those jeep passes for lunch! And, still be GREAT on the Highway. CAUTION: Hayden Pass has become very difficult on the Western side. Too much for a loaded KLR in my "experienced" opinion. Just fyi...

I don't want to ride 2 hours on the slab with a WR-F. Keep in mind I OWN a WR450F. So, I know my subject matter. By the way, its being sold to my Brother. If that's any indication of my real opinion. And, I love that bike...BTW.

Hope that covers everybody's questions. Time to go ride!!!

HF

Thanks for the summary, HF. I've been working my way through this epic thread for a few days now, and this summary is a great recap. Thank you.

By way of introduction, I've owned my 2008 R² for a month now, and am loving it. I'm new to motorcycle ownership, and am very happy with bike so far. I did lots of research before buying, but reading everyone's comments in this thread have helped me understand my new toy's potential even better. Thanks to all of you for sharing your hard-earned knowledge so freely.

[ADVNCW]

Thanks for putting that up!

Originally Posted by leftystrat62

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HOPE THESE PICTURES HELP ABOUT THE THE BIKE CAN BE USED OFF ROAD WITH A BIG TANK

[coresports]

both bikes are 08 wrr's, equal rider skill level, grainy video is on purpose & we both are WFO.
we were just riding and did not line them up & have someone drop a flag but it's close enough.
i don't have an opinion one way or the other stock vs mod...when i was younger i liked to tinker with my rides,
now that i am older, i just like to ride - either way these bikes are a riot!!


bike on the left is modded: pipe, programmer, ais, airbox, edge, dunlops

vs

bike on the right (camera) 100% stock + dunlops

[HighFive]

Originally Posted by PappaBear

Thanks for the summary, HF. I've been working my way through this epic thread for a few days now, and this summary is a great recap. Thank you.

By way of introduction, I've owned my 2008 R² for a month now, and am loving it. I'm new to motorcycle ownership, and am very happy with bike so far. I did lots of research before buying, but reading everyone's comments in this thread have helped me understand my new toy's potential even better. Thanks to all of you for sharing your hard-earned knowledge so freely.

Oh my....that was a long while back. But your welcome, just the same. I would add a few changes to the list. Skip the Sidewinder sprocket and chain and go with a Supersprox set + good Renthal, Regina, or DID O-ring chain for lower cost and longer life. The Sidewinder performance was good, but too short lived....which was disappointing given the lifetime guarantee.

Overall, a suspension upgrade was the best money spent (benefit per dollar) for me.

HF

[simmons1]

Originally Posted by HighFive

Overall, a suspension upgrade was the best money spent (benefit per dollar) for me.

HF

I agree completely. When I was a kid I always looked for more performance first. In my old fat old age I always go for the suspension first.

[Bob in Indy]

Originally Posted by coresports

both bikes are 08 wrr's, equal rider skill level, grainy video is on purpose & we both are WFO.
we were just riding and did not line them up & have someone drop a flag but it's close enough.
i don't have an opinion one way or the other stock vs mod...when i was younger i liked to tinker with my rides,
now that i am older, i just like to ride - either way these bikes are a riot!!


bike on the left is modded: pipe, programmer, ais, airbox, edge, dunlops

vs

bike on the right (camera) 100% stock + dunlops

Wow... that doesn't seem to be a big difference, at least from the video.

[DougZ73]

Rider weight plays a big part is how quick these bikes accelerate.

[Scott_PDX]

Originally Posted by Bob in Indy

Wow... that doesn't seem to be a big difference, at least from the video.

Yeah, but not much of a scientific test. Sure would like to see a drag race from stop on the mods vs. not modded. I just added a full FMF set up and did the airbox mods etc. Only had a chance to ride around the neighborhood so far, but the "seat of the pants" dyno sure seems like more power than what I'm seeing in that video.