Engine overheating slow moving - Page 4

tagesk · 08-16-2011, 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manatee2000

When I am in Death Valley riding along at 55 to 105 MPH watching the temperature gauge creep up past the top hash I don't want to be wondering for couple of hours if my bike is going to over heat.

Sir,
If you experience over heating while the bike is moving at more than a brisk walking speed, there is something wrong with your bike.
You should bring it to a qualified mechanic to find and correct the error.

The issue at hand, however, was that when the bike is not moving the engine will over heat due to lack of cooling.

At great expense, very little added value and reduced esthetics, I am sure you can fit a cooling fan on your bike.
Please note that BMW has not fitted your bike with a fan. Not due to a design error, but based on a pro-con evaluation.

Motto: Ride your bike.
When you don't ride it, shut off the engine.

[TaSK]

JimVonBaden · 08-16-2011, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lobby

I wasn't being disrespectful of your position. Just smiling at the strength of Jim's response.

I think you're both right. Jim is saying that the bike is air cooled; what can one expect if no air is flowing over the engine to cool it off while in stop and go traffic.

You're saying that with today's engineering capabilities, adequate temperature control can be designed and installed to prevent overheating.

I think you're both right.

But I also think that the hexheads are already pretty good at engine temperature management. If I were to ask BMW for improvements, this wouldn't make my list.

Definitely superior to the R1100/1150!

Jim

Hikertrash · 09-15-2012, 04:18 PM

Sorry to revive and old post, but after owning my '11 1200GSA for almost a year now, I finally had it too hot. I had just ridden about 7 hours with just one short fuel stop and was stopped for about 20 minutes while waiting to cross back into the US. After about 15 minutes of idle, the oil lamp started flashing and the yellow warning lamp came on. I routinely get the temp guage to the top hash mark while slow rolling off road, but I've never had the oil lamp flash like that. I did have quite a bit of mud and dirt caked on the engine from the prior day of riding through flooded Mexican streets and muddy dirt roads, but I didn't think that would have effected it since the bike is oil cooled, but who knows. The bike is using 20w50 synthetic and air temp was only 85F. Once I crossed back into the US and hopped onto the highway, the temp went right back down. Has anyone else had this happen or was this a fluke caused buy all the mud on the engine? This incident has me second guessing my decision to purchase the GSA for my needs, however since its supposed to be designed to ride around the world, I thought maybe there was an underlining problem that maybe the dealer should look into.

tagesk · 09-16-2012, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikertrash

The bike is using 20w50 synthetic ......

Sir,
even with synth, you should probably replace your oil now. It has had a very good heating and, as I am sure you are aware, oil break down faster with higher temperatures.

[TaSK]

Willie B · 09-16-2012, 10:05 AM

I haven't experienced this, but did notice after replacing the stock exhaust with a full Akropovic system, the oil-engine temperature runs 1 to 2 bars cooler on warm days. I rode the bike this summer in the 100+ degree weather and didn't see anything above the mid mark on the gauge. I've also never seen my oil light illuminated while riding the bike. I assume by removing the catalysts from beneath the sump has made the difference? BTW, I run 20-50 full synthetic year round and change the oil and filter religiously every 3K miles. I had the BMW dealer install my HID headlights and was pissed when I realized they had zip tied the ballasts to the backside of the oil cooler. I redid the install myself and righted a complete oversight on their part. My dog could have done a better job had she been allowed in the garage. When I rang them about their oversight, I was made to feel it wouldn't have made a difference in the bike's cooling and ballast performance. In retrospect, I should have done the install myself and I will perform all work on my bikes going forward.

John Smallberries · 09-16-2012, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tagesk

Sir,
even with synth, you should probably replace your oil now. It has had a very good heating and, as I am sure you are aware, oil break down faster with higher temperatures.

[TaSK]

I found this thread with a Google search and am glad I did. I got my '05 hot for the first time on Friday. I rode at 80+ mph on the highway (ambient ~72F) for nearly 2 hours, then hit a dead stop due to an accident. I crept forward at less than walking pace for around 30 minutes. My temp bar crept up 2 notches and my oil pressure warning started to flicker. Something started to smell hot, but I'm not sure what. A bit of elevated engine speed kept the pressure OK. I finally realized that I was on an air cooled bike with 2-lanes of stopped traffic and an open shoulder. I rode at ~25 mph to the end of the blockage (accident - non-fatal, thank God) and back into normal speeds. I was rehearsing my "my bike was overheating" speech for the cops, but never needed it.

I'll change my oil this week as I'm sure it got a very good heating as well.

der Silberfuchs · 11-15-2012, 04:18 PM

My 2011 R1200R and my R1200GS have both had a leaking gasket behind the chain tensioner gasket.... has anyone else encountered this problem? Both dealers feel that the gasket was damaged at the factory. the "R" was leaking from day one... like a ... wait for it... an HD! Sorry, had to go there! Now my GS made it to 11850 miles before leaking at the same place.

hardpackrider · 11-15-2012, 08:26 PM

2012 GSA... summertime night traffic jam... stopped.. watched bars go up and up.. finally at 8 bars (too from top), pulled off and found long straight away... dropped down to five... then four. only time, and never got warning light... but definitely can happen.... just turn off or stop... just my two cents. no sense cooking yer motor..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pir8te · 11-18-2012, 08:54 PM

I rode for years in PHX rush hour with a 2006 HP2 never had a issue with the bike

Pickup man · 11-19-2012, 10:32 AM

Has anyone had the reverse? Last week I was commuting into work at -5 C or 24 F and while I was clipping along at
100kph (slower then I normally ride the highway due to the cold). Unless my sleepy eyes were playing tricks on me,
I swear I went from 4 bars to 3 bars for a bit. !

Pete O Static · 11-19-2012, 10:50 AM

Personally, I would not start running synthetic in an engine that is not even close to being broken in.

I have a 2011 cam head and depending on the oil weight vs ambient temperature, the oil can get pretty hot in stop and go traffic. Case and point, I was running 10w40 in Oregon but the engine got very warm in Nevada, to the point I had to stop and let it cool in hot stop and go traffic. This is not an issue if I am running 20w50.

So before you go spending huge amounts of money trying out various synthetics, just try checking if your running the appropriate viscosity.

def · 11-19-2012, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pickup man

Has anyone had the reverse? Last week I was commuting into work at -5 C or 24 F and while I was clipping along at
100kph (slower then I normally ride the highway due to the cold). Unless my sleepy eyes were playing tricks on me,
I swear I went from 4 bars to 3 bars for a bit. !

Yes, I have experienced cold oil operating temps for just a few minutes during very cold temperatures (< 20 F.). But, mine is a R1150GS and the oil cooling systems design and engine heating and cooling dynamics are different than the more recent boxer models. If you are running summer oil viscosity, it might be wise to change to a lower viscosity for improved pumpability and oil circulation in winter climates with cold riding temperatures.

Pickup man · 11-19-2012, 03:02 PM

Yes def, that is more than likely the problem, Im still running 15W 50 Mobil 1 synth.
Im gonna change the oil this weekend to 10W 40 for the winter. Should make easier
cold weather starts and fuel consumption should improve a little.

11-15-2012, 04:18 PM	#52
der Silberfuchs n00b Joined: Nov 2012 Oddometer: 1	I have had two new bikes with oil leaks My 2011 R1200R and my R1200GS have both had a leaking gasket behind the chain tensioner gasket.... has anyone else encountered this problem? Both dealers feel that the gasket was damaged at the factory. the "R" was leaking from day one... like a ... wait for it... an HD! Sorry, had to go there! Now my GS made it to 11850 miles before leaking at the same place.

11-15-2012, 08:26 PM	#53
hardpackrider Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2009 Location: San Franciso, Bay Area, CA Oddometer: 139	2012 GSA... summertime night traffic jam... stopped.. watched bars go up and up.. finally at 8 bars (too from top), pulled off and found long straight away... dropped down to five... then four. only time, and never got warning light... but definitely can happen.... just turn off or stop... just my two cents. no sense cooking yer motor.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 2012 GSA - xxx-black ________--- ____ -- .... .. . - . . . – Every man dies. Not every man really lives. – William Wallace – I'm working on that Bill... it's why I'm here. – hardpackrider

11-18-2012, 08:54 PM	#54
Pir8te over forty victim of fate Joined: Jul 2004 Location: East of Malibu Oddometer: 1,445	110+ I rode for years in PHX rush hour with a 2006 HP2 never had a issue with the bike __________________ In the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years. Abraham Lincoln

11-19-2012, 10:50 AM	#56
Pete O Static Adventure Seeker Joined: Apr 2009 Location: The Great White North Oddometer: 527	Personally, I would not start running synthetic in an engine that is not even close to being broken in. I have a 2011 cam head and depending on the oil weight vs ambient temperature, the oil can get pretty hot in stop and go traffic. Case and point, I was running 10w40 in Oregon but the engine got very warm in Nevada, to the point I had to stop and let it cool in hot stop and go traffic. This is not an issue if I am running 20w50. So before you go spending huge amounts of money trying out various synthetics, just try checking if your running the appropriate viscosity. __________________ "The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you don't really know if they are accurate" - Thomas Edison-

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09-15-2012, 04:18 PM	#48
Hikertrash Beastly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2011 Location: Arizona Oddometer: 1,018	Sorry to revive and old post, but after owning my '11 1200GSA for almost a year now, I finally had it too hot. I had just ridden about 7 hours with just one short fuel stop and was stopped for about 20 minutes while waiting to cross back into the US. After about 15 minutes of idle, the oil lamp started flashing and the yellow warning lamp came on. I routinely get the temp guage to the top hash mark while slow rolling off road, but I've never had the oil lamp flash like that. I did have quite a bit of mud and dirt caked on the engine from the prior day of riding through flooded Mexican streets and muddy dirt roads, but I didn't think that would have effected it since the bike is oil cooled, but who knows. The bike is using 20w50 synthetic and air temp was only 85F. Once I crossed back into the US and hopped onto the highway, the temp went right back down. Has anyone else had this happen or was this a fluke caused buy all the mud on the engine? This incident has me second guessing my decision to purchase the GSA for my needs, however since its supposed to be designed to ride around the world, I thought maybe there was an underlining problem that maybe the dealer should look into.

09-16-2012, 10:05 AM	#50
Willie B Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2012 Oddometer: 122	I haven't experienced this, but did notice after replacing the stock exhaust with a full Akropovic system, the oil-engine temperature runs 1 to 2 bars cooler on warm days. I rode the bike this summer in the 100+ degree weather and didn't see anything above the mid mark on the gauge. I've also never seen my oil light illuminated while riding the bike. I assume by removing the catalysts from beneath the sump has made the difference? BTW, I run 20-50 full synthetic year round and change the oil and filter religiously every 3K miles. I had the BMW dealer install my HID headlights and was pissed when I realized they had zip tied the ballasts to the backside of the oil cooler. I redid the install myself and righted a complete oversight on their part. My dog could have done a better job had she been allowed in the garage. When I rang them about their oversight, I was made to feel it wouldn't have made a difference in the bike's cooling and ballast performance. In retrospect, I should have done the install myself and I will perform all work on my bikes going forward.

11-19-2012, 10:32 AM	#55
Pickup man Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2011 Location: Toronto Oddometer: 137	Has anyone had the reverse? Last week I was commuting into work at -5 C or 24 F and while I was clipping along at 100kph (slower then I normally ride the highway due to the cold). Unless my sleepy eyes were playing tricks on me, I swear I went from 4 bars to 3 bars for a bit. !

11-19-2012, 03:02 PM	#58
Pickup man Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2011 Location: Toronto Oddometer: 137	Yes def, that is more than likely the problem, Im still running 15W 50 Mobil 1 synth. Im gonna change the oil this weekend to 10W 40 for the winter. Should make easier cold weather starts and fuel consumption should improve a little.