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Old 11-19-2012, 08:26 PM   #71296
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Fixed. This is not a BMW with linked brakes we're talking about.
I was going to make the same reply...lol. Also the wires attach to a separate replaceable micro switch mounted underneath the master cylinder...not the master cylinder itself. You should hear an audible click from the switch when you pull the brake lever. You are correct no electronic linked braking system on the DR. Maybe next year when it gets a new purple frame to go with the new grey color scheme.

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Old 11-19-2012, 08:45 PM   #71297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
It sounds like people have converted to 520 chain/sprockets without any issues? Anybody have premature wear or breakage issues? What do other 650 class thumpers use? I'm due for new & am thinking about making the switch.
There are more sprocket choices available for the 520 chain and I think 520 chain is easier to find in other countries. The 520 won't match the mileage of an equal quality 525, but that wouldn't be considered premature wear. Since I can find the sprocket combo I like, I'm staying with the 525.

I would run a 520 set before I'd run a 13t front sprocket for extended distances. IIRC, those using a 13t have no choice but a 520 sprocket.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:45 PM   #71298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Those wires hook onto the front brake master... and turn on the rear brake when you apply the front brake. The rear brake switch does the same brake light... two ways to turn on the brake light.

Dave
Cool. Thanks for the info [and everyone who responded with the missing word added back in]. I just noticed that one of the wires was a little loose, and I wanted to make sure my bike wasn't going to shut off if that wiggled off on the highway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Had my kill switch opened for a repair last month. First link shows pictures.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70736

This second link has a link to the kill switch repair/change to momentary contact kill.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=70791

The two wires to the kill switch have to make contact (complete the circuit) for the engine to run. When you push the kill switch, it breaks the circuit and no power gets thru to power the ignition.

Look at my pictures of the wiring harness going to the kill switch. I removed the plastic sheath and found lots of wires. Some joined together inside the sheath, making for more coming out one end than going in the front. I soldered the crimp connectors in the middle that were loose and taped them up and put the sheath back on with another sheath over that. It rains all winter in Oregon.

Hope that helps your kill switch.

Dave
Right now, I have the wires twisted together and hidden under a bunch of electrical tape until I can run over to Radio Shack and pick up a cheap switch. I don't want to get another "click in/click out" type switch. I'm just going to get a regular toggle type switch. Massive thanks to everyone for being knowledgeable in a pinch.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:09 PM   #71299
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The problem is that NOBODY, once again, NOBODY else feels what you do, except me when my swingarm bushings were destroyed. We all have riden other rigs - even the same ones you have, yet nobody has the same experience. This seems to indicate that you have a DIFFERENT DR650 than the rest of us. Using LOGIC this is what the obvious answer is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnkol View Post
I was talking about crossing a seam at a shallow angle. I can do that in my puny 15-lb road bike and the bike feels solid as a rock. I can ride uneven ruts with my KTM and the bike goes straight as an arrow without any dramas. I've never had any four-wheeled vehicle that was affected by seams.

I can only speculate that you are thinking of something completely different?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:20 PM   #71300
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in Santa Fe View Post
Greetings all, I am looking at a 2005 DR 650 that has 24,000 miles. (Mostly highway as a commuter).
The guy has full records and the bike looks well cared for.
Question: IS 24K high mileage for a DR 650 engine that has been maintained?
(I have an old BMW Boxer, where 24K is barely broken in, so my thinking may be off.)
Thanks, Steve
If you look closely for touched up paint chips, dinged frame rails under the engine (maybe hidden by a new skidplate), scuffed brush gaurds, headlight cowling, lever ends & mirrors, weird fitting replacement nuts and bolts, etc, abuse can be found. It sounds like a nice bike if it was a commuter, but it should be priced low for your area. 24k is no spring chicken.

Mine just turned 42,400 and runs like a top (because I ride it like I want it to last). I'm a believer in full synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1 15w-50 automotive at 3500 miles, in my case )
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:21 PM   #71301
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
It sounds like people have converted to 520 chain/sprockets without any issues? Anybody have premature wear or breakage issues? What do other 650 class thumpers use? I'm due for new & am thinking about making the switch.
There are hundreds of posts on the 525 - 520 option, all kinds of opinions all through this thread. You could start at the beginning of this thread and read the whole thing ... but your head might swell up and explode.
(too much knowledge!)

If you use your DR650 mostly as a dirt bike then you have more gearing options (especially with the rear sprocket) with the 520 set up.

But for serious LD touring / travel ... especially out of the USA ... stay with a quality 525 chain and OEM sprockets.

If you go 520 get the best X ring chain you can and use quality sprockets. (if you care about longevity). I would use the DR800 (DR BIG) sprockets.

I have gone 25,000 miles on one 525 X ring chain. (Not the stock one)
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:16 PM   #71302
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So when I was removing the charcoal canister, I broke the fitting on the bottom of the carb that the hose goes to. Am I screwed? Can I epoxy it tojust plug it or am sol. I fired it up and it doesn't seem to suck any air. But the fitting is brass and has a hole through it.


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Off Limits screwed with this post 11-19-2012 at 10:46 PM
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:48 PM   #71303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhyno View Post
.............................
The johnkols of the internet come and go, but the knowledge base will still be here.

PS: The entire ADVrider site (outside of CS&M) is pretty touchy about political rambling of any kind.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:24 AM   #71304
Chill
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DR650 Flex

I come to the DR650 after riding three new bikes. A ZX10R (about as cutting edge as you can get) a Z1000 (the new one with the solid frame) and a ZX6R (a track tool if ever there was one) and I have to say that I've not noticed any frame flex. I can feel the knobblies D606 squirming a bit when I get it over to about 45 degrees on the road but frame flex? No.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:19 AM   #71305
johnkol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Not that this means anything to anyone, but I find my DR particularly sluggish and questionable in handling when down near the recommended tire pressures. I run Shinko 705's and well, but my front in in the higher 20's (like 28?), and my rear low 30's.
Tyre pressures are proportional to rider weight, so a 250-lb rider should certainly be using higher tyre pressures than a 150-lb rider. And indeed, underinflating tyres will make for a sub-standard handling bike.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:52 AM   #71306
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I ran through two rears of the 700's, never did wear out the front; absolutely great all around tire, although the rear tends to need replacing at 3500. Now running 705's due to a switch to a 19" front, very good as well, better in the twisties, not quite as good in the gravel, but what is?
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:25 AM   #71307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-P View Post
The problem is that NOBODY, once again, NOBODY else feels what you do, except me when my swingarm bushings were destroyed. We all have riden other rigs - even the same ones you have, yet nobody has the same experience. This seems to indicate that you have a DIFFERENT DR650 than the rest of us. Using LOGIC this is what the obvious answer is.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:34 AM   #71308
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Thumbs down

Need your advice, fellow DR riders:

As you may know, I was having electrical problems with my bike in western Tanzania (she's a 1998 with 74,000+ miles). She was dying after a few minutes of running and a reworked carb, a newer CDI, rectifier and ignition coil didn't solve the problem, so I figured it was the stator. I got a new stator shipped in, the 250W uprated one and installed that along with slightly-newer parts from parted DRs: a CDI from a 2006 and a rectifier from a 2001. After those parts, she fired up and sounded really good. I did 50 kms of test rides and was confident the problem was solved, so got back on the trail heading south.

But now, after 400 kms (250 miles), the problem is back. She died on me today in the middle of muddy roads. It felt like a loss of power. I let her cool, we rode a bit more and then she died again. I figured since I didn't replace the original ignition coil, maybe it was acting up now. I put in the coil from the 2001 bike and she died again in a few kms. Then I unplugged the generator and we ran for a while before same failure. Then I unplugged the rectifier and we ran fine for a few kms before she died again. The longer I let her cool down before trying again, the longer she lasts before dying again. To me, this sounds like something is heating up and causing the loss of power. It doesn't feel like a fuel (carb) issue. It feels like something is cutting power to the spark plugs. I limped her back to a small town.

I'm running on the Shorai battery and have a voltage monitor and after unplugging both stator and rectifier, battery was holding charge at 13.45 and after two starts with no stator, it dropped to 13.35 V.

I have a replacement wiring harness from the 2006 bike. Is mounting that on going to help? That's all I can think of now. I'm close to throwing in the towel and putting her on a truck and heading back to a good mechanic in Nairobi. Argghhh!!!!
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:35 AM   #71309
RichBeBe
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Best DR ever!
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:36 AM   #71310
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Some drugs involved there.
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