I need a new Flashlight....

[sailah]

Bruce,

I guess if you don't have the means to recharge sure, but I routinely charge them using a 12V plug for the charger in my car. I have never had a single issue with one of my batteries. I think making the comparison between NiCad and Li Ion is not accurate. I agree Ni Cad are not the best. Li Ion batteries are much stronger, more powerful and they last right up until the end, at which point the voltage cutoff will drop out and the light turns off.

With the run times of these lights, even on high, you's have to be in that smoky basement a helluva lot longer than your oxygen tank to outrun a battery. That's one of the things I like about rechargeable, I always have the ability to have a full battery.

Being off the grid doesn't mean you cant recharge batteries, unless you are literally off the grid for months and not driving anywhere, I'd just use the drive to town as a chance to charge all the batteries.

BTW where are you in NH? I grew up in Maine and love going over to the Conn lakes fishing

[Fire Escape]

I do have a solar panel and the ability to recharge from 12v, try as much as possible to not use an inverter for 110v chargers but still find myself having to for the computer so much as I try to avoid it even AC charging is possible.
I had neglected the change from the old NiCads to Li Ion, it certainly has made cordless tools more reliable. Guess that I should get with the times and look into what is out there for Li Ion batteries. How do actual run times compare with 'disposable' 123s? Do they 'store' well without losing strength?
It isn't that they need to outlast a cylinder of AIR (if we used Oxy, our exhalations would be feeding the fire - not good), It is that changing to fresh batteries isn't always an option 'on the way in', we don't get lots of warning that we will be headed into an emergency. The relatively low cost and high shelf life of disposables does make it easier to have a 'spare set' stored in several places but for more 'every day' use, where that voltage cutoff (and sudden darkness) isn't critical the rechargeables might fit my needs better than I thought.


Bruce

I am down in the 'lower tier' of the state, just east of Concord. I get up to the north country (usually) twice a year to fish with friends on the Connecticut Lakes, beautiful country and quite a contrast to spending winter in the Keys.

[sailah]

The batteries store incredibly well. I buy the protected versions of the ultra fire series from battery junction. Very pleased so far. The run times are so long that I simply recharge every couple months even if they don't need it. I have many lights so some may go that long.

It's not a bad idea to obviously keep some regulars around but I think if you get a couple of the rechargeable batteries since they are cheap you'll be a believer. Battery junction is in ct too and really nice folks, plus they have great deals on regular batteries if you want to stock up.

[Fire Escape]

Thank you, I will check them out. Are they the place to look for 12v charging options as well?


Bruce

[Snapper]

Originally Posted by Fire Escape

Guess that I should get with the times and look into what is out there for Li Ion batteries. How do actual run times compare with 'disposable' 123s? Do they 'store' well without losing strength?

Li-ion (RCR123/16340s) have ~50-60% the energy of lithium primaries (CR123) or 3.7V x 650 mah = 2.4 watt hrs vs 3.0 x 1500 mah = 4.5 watt hrs. While it is true that Li-ions don't self discharge like other Ni-based rechargeables, Li-ions do not like to be stored at full capacity - they'll permenantly lose about 20% of their capacity per year stored at 100% at room temp. Not all lights can handle the additional voltage (up to 4.2V fully charged) of Li-ions, make sure your light is rated for them.

Best to use Li-ions and store Lithium primaries.

[sailah]

Originally Posted by Fire Escape

Thank you, I will check them out. Are they the place to look for 12v charging options as well?


Bruce

Bruce, most of the nicer chargers you can buy the 12V cord for. I have the WF 139 charger and it's been fine. I have an inverter built into the back of my Toyota FJ so I just use that. I also have another charger that has a 12V plug.

The new smart charger that does Ni cad, NiMH, and Li ion batteries is the one I would get now. Then you can pick up some cheapo NiMH for around the house that use regular AA and still charge your nice Li Ion all with one charger. It's new, wasn't around when I got mine. Sysmax i4 linked below

http://www.batteryjunction.com/lithiumionchargers.html

As Snapper noted, make sure your light is compatible with the 3.7v batteries, most are but double check.

If thats the case get some 3.7V RCR123A

http://www.batteryjunction.com/uf16340.html

If you're restricted to 3.0V batteries

http://www.batteryjunction.com/rc375reliba.html

I have not heeded the warning to not store the cells at top charge. They are $4. I charge them up, put them in a light and go. I also bought one of those little plastic cases for storing batteries and I keep one in my car filled with (2) AA NiMH for regular AA usage like my GPS. I also have (2) 14500 Li Ion batteries which are simply AA sized Li Ion for my flashlights.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/bacaforaaba.html

14500 or AA sized are my favorite lights for the following reasons

They are very compact, though slightly longer than your 123 size
They use regular AA batteries and in a pinch you can obviously find those anywhere

For big power and longer run times I have a number of 18650 powered lights which are simply larger, but they put out an incredible amount of light and last forever.

[Fire Escape]

I looked up Battery Junction, Google lists it in conjunction with Batteries Plus which we have here. Guess I will be doing some more shopping before winter. I was concerned that all the rechargeables listed specificly said not to use in Surefire lights, then proceeded to mention the various incandescents. I will have to check the other lights for cautions. Even if I just go Li Ion in place of my AAs, it will probably be worthwhile. The Eotech... I won't be 'chancing' that with rechargeables but being in this half of the world I probably only need a couple batteries a year (if that). Thanks (to all) for all the advice.

Back to "Anyone get a new Light?"


Bruce

[Andrew]

Originally Posted by rbrsddn

I've got the 3D Maglite conversion from these guys http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/d...te-c-1_25.html

The light output is 100 times better than the original bulb.

Still happy with that Malkoff?

I have some D-cell Maglites that could use an upgrade, given I have plenty of Duracell D's in the closet.

[Zundfolge]

I bought one for my 4D Maglight and I am pleased with the results. You either need to purchase a trimmed reflector from them or trim your existing one. It is not difficult to trim, but I imagine they are easy enough to break. You will also still get some patterned light (versus a consistent circle of light) since that seems to be due to the reflector.

Originally Posted by Andrew

Still happy with that Malkoff?

I have some D-cell Maglites that could use an upgrade, given I have plenty of Duracell D's in the closet.

[rbrsddn]

I've had the Malkoff drop-in for my Mag lite 3D for a couple of years now. It takes an anemic light and makes it a useful tool. Trimming the reflector is easy. I also purchased a Hound Dog XML last spring, that is an awesome light. Runs on 2 18550 batteries, or 3 CR123's. Malkoff's products are first rate.

[JohnBoy777]

I really like lights that run AA's - you can get rechargable versions (Nickel Metal Hydride like Tenergy or Eneloop) or Lithium that have a 10-year shelf-life.

You can get ordinary AA's anywhere as well - not so w/ CR123's or 18650's

My two favorites are the Fenix LD12 S (small pocket sized 120 Lumens around 50 bucks) and the Fenix LD41(normal size 500+ lumens around $70) ...run your LD41 at the 80 lumens (more power than a normal Mag Light) power setting, and it will last 20 hours. Fenix has good build quality and they are water proof, IPX-8.

For normal use, 80 - 100 lumens is plenty.

LD41



LD12

[Cumminsman76]

I got a Fenix LD 32 the other day. Stupid bright.

[ADVMindset]

I popped for a Fenix TK35 a month or so ago...it is the newest version with 860 lumen. It is an awesome flashlight and I have no regrets. It is the household flashlight and has worked out well. I have also picked up a few different "cheap" lights off of Ebay, one uses a single AA and is rated at 600 lumen and the other two use a single 18650 battery and one is 1000 lumen and the other is 1600.
I got the 1000 for $17.00 with 2 batteries and a charger with free shipping ! And the 1600 for $9.00 without any batteries. The little 600 was less than $6.00 !
I am curious to see what the life span is these.

[KingRat]

Originally Posted by ADVMindset

I popped for a Fenix TK35 a month or so ago...it is the newest version with 860 lumen. It is an awesome flashlight and I have no regrets. It is the household flashlight and has worked out well. I have also picked up a few different "cheap" lights off of Ebay, one uses a single AA and is rated at 600 lumen and the other two use a single 18650 battery and one is 1000 lumen and the other is 1600.
I got the 1000 for $17.00 with 2 batteries and a charger with free shipping ! And the 1600 for $9.00 without any batteries. The little 600 was less than $6.00 !
I am curious to see what the life span is these.

I think 600lm from 1xAA is a typo.

[Fire Escape]

Since I have been finding/trying new flashlights, a friend challenged me to find him one that a) could be carried on his duty belt and b) would break auto (side, tempered) glass. With the amount of 'stuff' a patrolman has to fit onto his belt these days, this sounded reasonable. He said that he continues to carry an ASP mostly because it will (usually) break windows and would be happy to swap it for a compact light as long as window breaking wasn't sacrificed.
I thought 'How hard can it be to find?', turns out it is harder than expected. I can find glass breaking caps for full size 'D' cell lights which as we are learning have been 'put out to pasture' by the compact new LEDs, those lights don't live well on a belt. All the high performance, 'tactical' lights that I can find have the switch in the tail cap so the glass breaking button isn't an option. I have found references to glass breaking 'crenelated' bezels but no specifics on the websites and the references were mostly to weapon mounted lights. This is handy IF the person on the other side of the window NEEDS to have a weapon pointed at them but sometimes (rescue) that is not the case. There are plenty of lights out there with 'crenelated' bezels but unless they are really hardened, they are not that effective on tempered glass He already has a 'big' light (which mostly stays in the car unless it is expected to be needed) and a weapon mounted light.
Having spent 3 decades performing and teaching auto extrication, I have broken a lot of glass. For me it was easy to carry a spring loaded center punch in my turnout gear pockets with 'all that other handy stuff' but I didn't have to wear that gear throughout my entire shift.I can find plenty of glass breaking knives, some glass breaking pens, why no lights?
Finding a multi-tasking small light is harder than I thought, what is out there that I have missed?

Bruce