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11-21-2011, 08:21 AM
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#31 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 191
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Quote:
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11-23-2011, 08:11 AM
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#32 |
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Bend it Bend it
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Sydney
Oddometer: 5,437
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I have a bare LC4 cush hub to weigh if someone has the Talon or RAD for comparison.
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11-23-2011, 08:59 AM
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#33 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Oddometer: 1,665
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Quote:
For example, DRZs and TE610s don't have a cush hub. Last year I bought a DRZ that had been used for 100% street duty, which had 12,000 miles on the odometer. Output shaft splines were fine. I put a few thousand more miles on the bike, both on the dirt and as a supermoto, and it was fine when I sold it. Furthermore, there are LOTS of DRZ-SMs with significant miles on them, many owned by guys who probably aren't the best about maintenance. I have not heard of rampant output shaft spline failures. There are not nearly as many TEs as there are DRZ, but there are some, and they do not have cush hubs either. Rumor has it there is some kind of cush in the clutch, but my understanding is that this does not function in the "typical" way a cush hub does. In any case, I have considered one for my bikes, but in the end I have trouble arguing that Suzuki and Husqvarna didn't know what they were doing... It certainly can't hurt, though.
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TAT 2008 / Colorado 2010 "Both the man of science and the man of action live always at the edge of mystery, surrounded by it." -Oppenheimer 2007 Monster S2R / 2006 TE610 / 1999 KDX 200 / 2000 DRZ-E |
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11-23-2011, 09:38 AM
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#34 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Vienna, Austria
Oddometer: 4,900
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Quote:
I will have to revise my first opinion posted in this thread about a year ago, since then I have seen a couple of XC4 engined bikes and if they had more than 10k and were dual-sported, they all showed significant wear on the output shaft splines. For dual sport and motard use (other than race only), I now definitely consider the cush hubs a worthwhile upgrade even with the (not enough) dampened cliutch hub.
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Proud member of the HUSABERG ADVENTURE TEAM! '12 Husaberg FE570, 09 KTM XC-F/ 450 RFS hybrid, 07 KTM 450 SMR, 08+09 BMW F650GS twins/F800GS conversion, 03+05 YZF-R6 |
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11-23-2011, 10:09 AM
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#35 |
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i like stuff
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 4,319
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perhaps the KTM splines just arent as strong? or there is additional stress being applied somewhere, or loose front sprockets...
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"And some guy said, let there be filtering, and we filtered and we saw that it was good, and hours became minutes..." |
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11-23-2011, 03:20 PM
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#36 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: NW Wa. state
Oddometer: 1,072
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DRZ's also have a different way of attaching the front sprocket to the countershaft, which results in less/insignificant spline wear. Not to mention a lot less power.
No idea about 610's, never owned or worked on one. |
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12-10-2011, 05:28 AM
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#37 |
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New Sheriff in town
Joined: May 2009
Location: ravena new york
Oddometer: 5,408
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I ridden with both cush drive and non cush drive on the street and I felt a difference from the seat.
The cush drive was definitely smoother. A friend has a cush drive wheel that came off a 95 RXC 400 that I sold him actually ,this wheel has seen service on multiple bikes , I say invest in a wheel and keep it , Might make a little more sense to spend the $$$$$ if you get years worth of use.
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People say I'm not a people person, I say how can I be a people person when I hate people. -Joe R 09 FE 570 11 990 ADV |
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12-10-2011, 03:10 PM
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#38 |
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2011
Oddometer: 704
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What about using Loctite on the cs splines ?
The Loctite I am thinking of is 680, which is green in color.
I am wondering if using Loctite 680 or a similar product on the countershaft sprocket splines would prevent the sprocket and the shaft "working" against one another. If the fit of the splines is kept free of play, perhaps this would reduce wear of the shaft spines. Also, if the Loctite takes up all the free space where the splines of the countershaft and the countershaft sprocket mate, this would prevent dirt, sand, etc. from entering the space between splines and then acting as an abrasive wear agent. Disassembly of parts which have been joined using the 680 is aided by the use of a bit of heat, such that the area where the 680 was used reaches c. 232 degrees F ( 111 degrees C. ). ( By the way, I don't mean to imply that Loctite could or would obviate the need for a cush rear hub ) I'd like to hear Lukas' thoughts on the use of Loctite on the splines. Below are links to tech data on the Loctite 680 : http://store.fiberinstrumentsales.com/files/33289.pdf Info on a similar product which is sold by Permatex : http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/64000.pdf |
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12-03-2012, 07:43 PM
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#39 |
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n00b
Joined: Dec 2012
Oddometer: 3
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husaberg gears in a ktm 530
I agree with lukasm about lc8ty cushion wheel setup, " If's there's such a thing as wheel porn you win!". But what really caught my attention was what 001andrew said about husaberg fifth and sixth gear and putting it in his 09 KTM 530 exc. Why??
I'm assuming it's so that he doesn't need to switch counter sprocket size from 15 to 14 for on/off road and that the gears in the husaburg transmission are different for a taller overdrive and fits the ktm. I guess I read too deeply into what 001Andrew wrote and was wondering if there is any fact to this. Wondering if I should open a new tread. I want to know as much as possible about this. I tried finding specific transmission gearing specifications for the husaberg 570 like how many teeth on the 5th and 6th gears but gave up searching. Maybe someone out there is familiar with these machines and can point me in the right direction. thanks for any information. |
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