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Old 12-02-2012, 04:41 PM   #61
a1fa
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:59 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parepin View Post
Now I just need a new engine...
So a KLR engine for sale in the flea market.
It was like $450 or best offer.
Then changed to BEST OFFER.
Even has video of the engine running.
If I find the link, I'll post it here as an edit.

Here it is

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=engine
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:00 PM   #63
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parepin View Post
If anyone has any questions or comments, shoot.

Now I just need a new engine...

I would have cut the frame clean thru where the other frame broke, drilled the factory frame for plug welds and stuffed full tubes inside the existing tubes, shoved it all back together and welded it up. What you did will definitely help, just another way to skin a cat.

It's about $800 in parts to fully rebuild a KLR engine, new bearings and a 685 kit. 16 hours labor. Something to shoot for.


Nice work on your project!!


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Old 12-02-2012, 05:32 PM   #64
sunset_ryder
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I was just thinking ~
This thread needs more Alex
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:17 PM   #65
Parepin OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
So a KLR engine for sale in the flea market.
It was like $450 or best offer.
Then changed to BEST OFFER.
Even has video of the engine running.
If I find the link, I'll post it here as an edit.

Here it is

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=engine
I need an engine that can be upgraded with a big bore kit. I was aiming for a mid to upper 90's engine. Anything before a 96 can't be upgraded, which is why I didn't keep the engine that came with that '94 Donor bike. The engine that I've got now still has a strong bottom end. There is nothing in there that makes me thing I couldn't get several more YEARS out of that bottom end. As for the top end, I just keep wearing them out. Valves, sleeves, pistons. But all this is talk unless I've got the cash to wave around.


Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I would have cut the frame clean thru where the other frame broke, drilled the factory frame for plug welds and stuffed full tubes inside the existing tubes, shoved it all back together and welded it up. What you did will definitely help, just another way to skin a cat.

It's about $800 in parts to fully rebuild a KLR engine, new bearings and a 685 kit. 16 hours labor. Something to shoot for.


Nice work on your project!!


I considered that, but I would have been all in at that point. If you cut the frame, you're halfway to a V-twin swap already. I just can't open that can of worms..... yet.



Quote:
Originally Posted by sunset_ryder View Post
I was just thinking ~
This thread needs more Alex
Why Hellooooo....
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:46 AM   #66
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A great and inspiring thread. It is somehow starting to remind me of the anecdote about the 100-year old axe (that's had it's blade changed three times and the handle twice).

-T
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #67
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ah

no one can accuse you as being a weight wienie.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:45 AM   #68
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That's a shitload of work to put into something that, in the end, is still a KLR.

I admire your fortitude, though.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:48 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Off the grid View Post
That's a shitload of work to put into something that, in the end, is still a KLR.

I admire your fortitude, though.

I think you would be surprised just what this KLR can do. I've already converted a few to the milk crate.

You have been warned.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:24 AM   #70
DaFoole
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:56 AM   #71
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parepin View Post
The overflow line was run along the backbone and split off just before the radiator, allowing me to connect both rads to the bottle.


Alex,

that's wrong, you need to pipe the bottom-outlet to the rad's, and the top one (connected in your pic) is indeed the overflow, just let it leak if it wants to. Plug the one outlet just under the cap.
Nice project!!!
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Alex,

that's wrong, you need to pipe the bottom-outlet to the rad's, and the top one (connected in your pic) is indeed the overflow, just let it leak if it wants to. Plug the one outlet just under the cap.
Nice project!!!
C'mon, man. Give me a little more credit than that. Everything is plumbed together and functioning fine. That little tab you see at the bottom of the tank isn't a hose fitting. It's a solid piece of extrusion. I assume it fits into something on the Yamaha it came from to add some stability. The hose at the top goes in, through the rubber cap, and to the bottom of the tank. This allows for the siphoning action that brings the coolant to and from the radiators. The tank's overflow is just to the left of the rubber cap. There is a hose on it now, routed down towards the bottom of the bike.
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:00 PM   #73
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As someone who owned a welding and metal fabrication bussiness i just want to say that its damn nice to see someone not overthink the job with jigs, tig welding, heat treating etc!
Making things work with what you have and having it come out bitchin' is, to over use a horrible cliche, "what its all about!"
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:57 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by miguelitro View Post
As someone who owned a welding and metal fabrication bussiness i just want to say that its damn nice to see someone not overthink the job with jigs, tig welding, heat treating etc!
Making things work with what you have and having it come out bitchin' is, to over use a horrible cliche, "what its all about!"
Mike
"Fuck the HAZ"...
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:10 PM   #75
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LOVE all the pics with Janis in the background.

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