BMW 450 enduro (merged) threadfest...

[ScienceOfDirt]

I believe you are correct. It is +5v source for the Idle regulator position sensor. AKA Throttle Position Sensor.

[itsgunnahurt]

Originally Posted by ScienceOfDirt

I believe you are correct. It is +5v source for the Idle regulator position sensor. AKA Throttle Position Sensor.

Yup, that's the TPS
Have a look here, the pictures show the various parts all nicely labelled. Plus there's a link wiring diagram on the page too!

[Lamented]

Originally Posted by itsgunnahurt

Yup, that's the TPS
Have a look here, the pictures show the various parts all nicely labelled. Plus there's a link wiring diagram on the page too!

Great link thanks.

[Lamented]

Originally Posted by DESERT SCORPION

Yes, the gas cap wants to cross thread very easily. This was not always the case on my bike. It swells up after continued exposure to gasoline. I partly remedied this situation by baking the cap in the oven at 175 degrees F. for about three hours. Much smoother fit after this, but after a few weeks its as sticky as ever. Next I tried sanding the entire threaded portion of the cap down with 220 wet or dry sandpaper. This barely had any effect because the plastic is extremely abrasion-resistant. I could not remove enough material. The trick I use presently is to wind the cap counterclockwise until I feel the tank and cap threads jump by one pitch. Now firmly push the cap againt the tank opening while slowly turning clockwise. One must be very persistent to keep the cap level with the face of the filler neck. After about half a turn it is engaged enough to finish tightening it. Naturally BMW chose not to use a standard pitch, or I would just replace the damned thing with a $10 O'Reilly non-vented cap. There is a nice alloy cap that Husky lists in their Special Parts Catalog for the TE449; Cod. 8000H4069. I wonder if it will work on the BMW?

THE SCORPION

worth a look!

[jack splash]

Hey: I purchased the Black Plastic set for the G450 from speedbrain last year for a project, but didn't get to it. Now I'd like to keep the bike white. So I paid appx $300 for the set, I'd like to get that back. email me at jack-bsm@comcast.net if intrested.




Makes a great xmas gift. for yourself.


jack

[Lamented]

any chance you got the speed brain sticker set too?

[NoVa Rider]

IIRC, I have a sticker set for the rear and number plates. I can send pics if interested.

[Lamented]

send em!

[a1fa]

I would be interested at



for the speed brain black plastiX

[SRFade]

Fairly new to this bike having purchased a 2010 a few months ago with 1800 miles and 50 hours on the clock. After 20 hours of riding, put the bike in for some minor warranty repairs and its second oil change. The bike was returned to me with what I felt was excessive clutch drag with a pretty strong bang from neutral into first. Long story short, after a complete teardown of the clutch pack and replacement of the thrust bearing (under warranty), the clutch still doesn't feel like it completely disengages and the dealer is now telling me that it is "normal" after additional fiddling and adjusting at both the lever and the cable end. I know there are a lot of variables in this issue, including what I think is normal. Just wondering if this is common or normal and, if not, any suggestions?

[Lamented]

Originally Posted by SRFade

Fairly new to this bike having purchased a 2010 a few months ago with 1800 miles and 50 hours on the clock. After 20 hours of riding, put the bike in for some minor warranty repairs and its second oil change. The bike was returned to me with what I felt was excessive clutch drag with a pretty strong bang from neutral into first. Long story short, after a complete teardown of the clutch pack and replacement of the thrust bearing (under warranty), the clutch still doesn't feel like it completely disengages and the dealer is now telling me that it is "normal" after additional fiddling and adjusting at both the lever and the cable end. I know there are a lot of variables in this issue, including what I think is normal. Just wondering if this is common or normal and, if not, any suggestions?

Mine is the same

[Gearhead001]

Originally Posted by DESERT SCORPION

Yes, the gas cap wants to cross thread very easily. This was not always the case on my bike. It swells up after continued exposure to gasoline. I partly remedied this situation by baking the cap in the oven at 175 degrees F. for about three hours. Much smoother fit after this, but after a few weeks its as sticky as ever. Next I tried sanding the entire threaded portion of the cap down with 220 wet or dry sandpaper. This barely had any effect because the plastic is extremely abrasion-resistant. I could not remove enough material. The trick I use presently is to wind the cap counterclockwise until I feel the tank and cap threads jump by one pitch. Now firmly push the cap againt the tank opening while slowly turning clockwise. One must be very persistent to keep the cap level with the face of the filler neck. After about half a turn it is engaged enough to finish tightening it. Naturally BMW chose not to use a standard pitch, or I would just replace the damned thing with a $10 O'Reilly non-vented cap. There is a nice alloy cap that Husky lists in their Special Parts Catalog for the TE449; Cod. 8000H4069. I wonder if it will work on the BMW?

THE SCORPION

I use a dab of Vaseline (petroleum Jelly) on the threads. I no longer have a problem..

[Stagehand]

101 uses

[a1fa]

Brings a new meaning to screwing the cap.

[Gearhead001]

Originally Posted by Stagehand

101 uses

Originally Posted by a1fa

Brings a new meaning to screwing the cap.

One of the few things you can use anywhere on anything!!