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Old 12-07-2012, 04:27 PM   #16
disston OP
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I have converted several R12 systems to R134a. I don't know where you get '96 as the year for R134a in American cars. This is a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria and I guarantee that it came from the factory with R134a.

I still have some of the compressor oil around here I keep the can so I know which one to get. It has the correct oil in it.

Changing all the seals sounds like a good idea. I think I even have a kit but I may have use a couple of them. I have this sealer stuff that is used on the O-rings. I didn't like it because it was sooo thick. Might use that too.
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I have this sealer stuff that is used on the O-rings. I didn't like it because it was sooo thick. Might use that too.
NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER!!!!! use sealer in an AC system!!!!!!!!!

A temporary hack-snake oil crap fix that, will cost you a fortune when you have to repair a system the right way.

If you gum up a reclaimer at a service provider, they might just hand you the bill for damage to their equipment.

In the early 90's, Ford switched to better O-rings because they had so many problems with leaks at the connections.
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:09 PM   #18
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OK. But it was bought at an A/C supply store and is for A/C o-rings. But I won't use it, I swear.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:56 PM   #19
Stan_R80/7
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If the car is setup for R134a, the fittings are unique. It must be '94 (or '93) that R134a was mandated for use in US cars. My bad.

The point behind the oil is that it is dissolved in the R134a (and not all oils will dissolve). Chemically, the oil is 100% miscible in R134a. That means where the liquid R134a flows, so does oil. Even R134a gas has oil vapor. Hence, if there is a R134a leak spot then oil will leak there also. Good luck!
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:41 PM   #20
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Alldata says 3.8 hours to change the evaporator core. Sure beats the 23.8 hours for a Mercedes W140 evap. core.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:06 AM   #21
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I converted an '85 T-15 Jimmy to R134a. I replaced the entire gas loop, including the hard lines, with new parts. I got three years out of it before the compressor locked up. The problem with some conversions is that the compressor oil doesn't like to run uphill and pools in the low spots in the system. Ideally, that low spot is the compressor, but my Jimmy had the compressor in the high spot. I'm sure the compressor just ran out of oil and seized.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:17 AM   #22
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I don't think I could R&R the evaporator in 3.8 hrs. I did the heater core several years ago. It's right next door to the evap. It took me two days to do the heater. I looked at the evap while I was in there and it was MORE work than the heater. Not only is the dash pretty much removed but for the evap the front fender needs to come off. Maybe it was a shortcut I decided on and it's not required but I decided that it would help.
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