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Old 12-06-2012, 11:40 AM   #136
2fast4u
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Nice looking build.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:26 AM   #137
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So awesome... I'm digging the snail adjusters vs. the standard Honda adjusters; very nice!

With a swing-arm this stout, frame-bracing in the works and the thermostat-like power from the 650 four, I expect wheelies... lots of wheelies!
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:39 PM   #138
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Huge progress the past couple of days.


Alex came over to help out, we did some lathing.


Danny and Larry supervised.






I had some new sprockets from PBI that I was going to cut down. No such luck. They were a lot tougher than the stock sprocket was. The carbide barely touched it.


The angle grinder wasn't doing much either.


I'll have to try something else.


We also modified a tool holder to work on the big lathe. Of course, we used the lathe to do this.

Centering the part in the chuck:



Drilling out a hole. It seems weird, holding a drill bit still and turning the part.




Cutting a shoulder. The steel bits weren't working on the steel part at all. The carbide bit cut right in.





And, so we could say we did some actual work on the bike, we

cut


the


frame


in



half




A good day.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:45 PM   #139
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I found these on craigslist. They are from a YFZ450R quad, and are just the right length.




Another 20 pounds. This bike is porking up pretty quickly.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:26 AM   #140
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Having cut the frame apart, it's time to put it back together. I'm spacing it out 2". Actually, it's 50mm. I'm driving Rick nuts because he thinks in inches and I keep talking to him in metric.

To review, supposed advantages are:
Lower center of gravity.
Better swingarm pivot geometry and chain slack.
Better footpeg-exhaust-frame-skidplate relationship.
Easier R+R of the motor.

We'll see.



First thing is to make a bunch of spacers and sleeves. The sleeves go inside the spacers and frame tubes. These make both the alignment and welding much easier.




I started with some test welds. This is the first time I've used this TIG welder, and it's been a long time since I've used one at all. Fortunately the setup seems to work fairly well and there's a lot of range between getting full penetration and burning through.


The TIG setup is pretty basic. The argon goes to the torch, and the stick welder clamps on to the same adapter that the argon goes to. There's a valve on the torch for the argon, and the power is always on. There's no auto start, so it has to be scratched like a stick electrode to strike an arc.









I'm only extending the four main tubes, the rear tubes for the shock mounts are probably going to be completely replaced. The sleeves are tack welded in place. The front tubes have the sleeves in the frame, the rear have the sleeves in the spacers. This is due to the different diameters of the tubing. There are four different sizes involved here.


I assume the rust around the weld means I should be using a bigger cup on the torch?












Rick came up with a great way to get the alignment right.




With this much progress, it was time for another mockup and pose.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:21 AM   #141
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Lookin good! So what are you going to do where its cut by the swingarm pivot?
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:30 AM   #142
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I envy that seat (drz owner) !

try slowing down your spindle, you shouldn't see orange sparks or chips while machining. it dlls the carbide if the surface speed is too fast and travel too slow.

subd, great project
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:22 AM   #143
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Awesome progress!
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:15 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke View Post
...
I had some new sprockets from PBI that I was going to cut down. No such luck. They were a lot tougher than the stock sprocket was. The carbide barely touched it.
...
Are you sure you want those sprockets?

Don't forget what a harder-than-stock sprocket did for me.

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Old 12-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by CoyoteCowboy View Post
Lookin good! So what are you going to do where its cut by the swingarm pivot?

I'm 90% sure that I'll cut the whole back of the frame off and replace it. I'll make new shock mounts first and if those look good then I'll do the replacement. I need to resize the shock mounts and want to move them as well, so there will be major changes of some sort.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:13 PM   #146
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I envy that seat (drz owner) !

try slowing down your spindle, you shouldn't see orange sparks or chips while machining. it dlls the carbide if the surface speed is too fast and travel too slow.

subd, great project
Vintage seats are great. Modern foam is fine on woods or MX bikes where you're mostly standing but that's about it.


Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try on the other lathe. The Sherline doesn't do well at turning slow, not enough torque when the speed is turned down.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:26 PM   #147
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Are you sure you want those sprockets?

Don't forget what a harder-than-stock sprocket did for me.
No, I did forget. It's a good thing it's much easier to replace that shaft on a CB than an XR.


Hmmm.... I wonder if it's possible to remove the hardening from the sprocket. That'd solve two problems.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:09 PM   #148
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Originally Posted by Luke View Post
...

Hmmm.... I wonder if it's possible to remove the hardening from the sprocket. That'd solve two problems.
A little creative heat/quench work might do the trick if you knew what temps you needed, but it would probably be easier to just buy a new sprocket.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:44 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
A little creative heat/quench work might do the trick if you knew what temps you needed, but it would probably be easier to just buy a new sprocket.
Mortimer; what was the time frame or usage that led to the pictured damage? Did it occur relatively quickly or over a longer time span or more usage? How were you able to confirm a harder sprocket as the culprit vs. a possible softer shaft (or even just a poor fit on the spline)? You may have already covered all this with Luke in different place, but you definitely have my attention on this concern. Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:50 PM   #150
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I didn't keep track of the time involved, but once it got started it seemed to get worse at an increasing rate. I have no proof of cause, but this is a fairly common problem, at least on XRs, and the consensus on the XR forum seems to be that hard a aftermarket sprocket is the culprit.

I bought the bike used, and the sprocket that was on it was hard to get off. I didn't think to inspect the shaft at the time, but I think the damage had started with that sprocket.

After a season (two?) on the new sprocket, the damage was obvious, but less bad than in the below pic. I noticed the keeper had strange wear on it, so I pulled the sprocket, and found the damage. I foolishly hoped it would not get any worse, but after not-enough-hundred miles more, it looked like this.



I knew it was doomed, so just put it back together and kept riding. After an even shorter period of time it looked like it did in the first pic.

At that point I figured all was lost, and with nothing to lose, I welded the sprocket to the shaft to get some more mileage before changing the shaft.

The first sign of danger is a keeper that looks like this. But, I think that once the destruction starts, it will continue until it strips completely no matter what you do.



Though I can't be positive the sprocket caused this, I think it is likely enough to warrant never using aftermarket primaries again. The OEM sprocket for the XR is not only the proper hardness, but it also has a wider cross-section, or so I am told.
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