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Old 12-08-2012, 12:50 AM   #5881
fikse
All-season-rider
 
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
Oddometer: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda Scoot View Post
Preload fork spring spacers work, but they can only load the spring rate that remains in the old springs.
Using 15 wt (150 lb rider) or 20 wt (200 lb rider) fork oil will slow the fork compression and delay the bottoming of the springs espessially with an inch less of fork travel when using preload spacers.

This is the order used from top to bottom:
White PVC Spacer, 1 1/16" in diameter, cut SQUARE at 15/16" in length
1/16" thick stainless steel flat washer 1 1/4" diameter
Short factory Spring
Factory Washer
Long Factory Spring

Same feelings here on the NX. Every couple of months I think about replacing it. With what?
High strung dualsport - requires an oil change every 6 hours of use - No way
Another reliable dualsport - have one - I'm Swiss - Why spend money on a newer version of what I have.
Keeping this bike FOREVER!
I have used 15mm spacers in each. Great success. I have also raised forks 15mm trough the triple clamps. This lowered the bike in front, more wheight on front wheel (and thereby less diving since its already some more "preload"), steeper fork angle. For my taste this is working very nice with my summertyres. With my wintertyres I am not sure, maybe it is a bit too steep for the knobby studded tyres, I will have to test furthermore.


Only got a few thousands miles on mine since I bought it earlier this year, but already "in love". My first look made me think of the ugly duckling Not sexy at all. After some thinking and comparing with other dualsports, this one have it all. Well, most of it. Too soft suspension and tiny brakes compared to new bikes, but still this is just replaceables Now when its snow and ice nad low temps, Im just saying "halleluja" This bike really surprises me. So easy to drive on ice, and engine/drivetrain works just as smooth in these temps as in the summertime. Both thumbs up
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:07 PM   #5882
HondaNx
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Oddometer: 16
Guess its time to post my NX 250
Here it is guys!!! Enjoy!!



Also i have been having a problem with it. I took it in and got it worked on and thought that might of fixed it. But it still likes to shut off while driving it. But will fire right back up? Dont know if its because the of the sparkplug and its not spaced right?
Ill check that out. but if you have any input Let me know

Thanks
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:21 PM   #5883
CurtW
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Oddometer: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaNx View Post
Also i have been having a problem with it. I took it in and got it worked on and thought that might of fixed it. But it still likes to shut off while driving it. But will fire right back up? Dont know if its because the of the sparkplug and its not spaced right?
Ill check that out. but if you have any input Let me know

Thanks
I would suspect the CDI. Do you have the shop manual? The tests on pages 17-2 through 17-4 helped me diagnose mine,
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:08 PM   #5884
larry31
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: New Hampshire
Oddometer: 240
NX CDI checking

Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtW View Post
I would suspect the CDI. Do you have the shop manual? The tests on pages 17-2 through 17-4 helped me diagnose mine,

Just in case you don’t have the manual, here’s a pdf version of one. FWIW
http://www.powers31.info/Honda%20NX250%20Manual.pdf

This is the part on checking the CDI.
http://www.powers31.info/1988_NX250_Ign_Sys.pdf

Here’s a variety of other info on my NX. If it helps any…
http://www.powers31.info/nx250.htm

Edit: When my CDI failed, it would not start up when I made a roadside stop. After a bit of cooling down it started.
Again it failed to start first thing in morning, then it did start.
Finally it failed completely. Only then could I do the resistance tests outlined in the manual to be sure it was the CDI and not another electrical componet. ( Coils, wiring, etc.)

larry31 screwed with this post 12-09-2012 at 06:09 AM
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:03 PM   #5885
wyowillys46
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: The Front Range somewere
Oddometer: 2,065
Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaNx View Post
Guess its time to post my NX 250
Here it is guys!!! Enjoy!!



Also i have been having a problem with it. I took it in and got it worked on and thought that might of fixed it. But it still likes to shut off while driving it. But will fire right back up? Dont know if its because the of the sparkplug and its not spaced right?
Ill check that out. but if you have any input Let me know

Thanks
Very clean! Looks like your tires are mounted backwards.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:22 PM   #5886
thirstybuck
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
Countershaft

I was in the process of putting on a new chain today when I encountered a problem. The countershaft sprocket was loose. As in, I wondered to myself "is this going to come off on its own", not "oh that has a little play in it" kind of loose. I then tried to take it off but without success. Once I took the face plate bolts out I could then push the sprocket and face plate towards the engine and spin the faceplate around 360*. Nevertheless, the face plate and sprocket would NOT come off. So I guess I have two and a half questions:

1. How much play is there supposed to be in the countershaft? I expect the response to be "a little"
1b. What do I do if there is "A lot"? Buy a new front sprocket? The teeth are ok by my standards.
2. How do you get it off?


TB

thirstybuck screwed with this post 12-10-2012 at 06:44 AM Reason: E: for typo
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:00 AM   #5887
scrambler66
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Germany
Oddometer: 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirstybuck View Post
1. How much play is there supposed to be in the countershaft? I expect the response to be "a little"
1b. What do I do if there is "A lot"? But a new front sprocket? The teeth are ok by my standards.
2. How do you get it off?

A “little” play is perfectly normal, even if the engine is new. The extend of “little” is determined by the wear of the countershaft. That’s what a NX250 countershaft looks like after almost 100.000km



The sprocket has worn off quite a bit of material from the countershaft, but it still should be good for a couple of 10.000 kms. If your shaft looks worse than mine, you should consider changing it, in order to avoid something like that in the picture at the bottom . In minor cases it helps changing the fixing plate to reduce the play a bit.
The fixing plate may be also worn or bended, which makes it hard to get it of – than you have to use some force
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:14 AM   #5888
fikse
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
Oddometer: 88
Does anyone know the sizes for wheel ball bearings and sealings, or know where I can find that info?
In need of replacing rear bearings, considering replacing all 5 wheel bearings when I'm at it :-)
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:31 PM   #5889
thirstybuck
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
sprocket

Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler66 View Post
A “little” play is perfectly normal, even if the engine is new. The extend of “little” is determined by the wear of the countershaft. That’s what a NX250 countershaft looks like after almost 100.000km
Scrambler - thanks for the reply and the pictures; that answered a lot of questions. I put the NX back together and rode it to work and back, about 6 miles. The new chain is great and the countershaft didn't

The countershaft is in good shape. I still think that that is a hell of a lot of lateral play, but I haven't had to deal with countershaft sprocket before. The back and forth play, chain directions, is much better than side to side. Tell me what you think.

I failed at getting the video to embed so you'll have to settle for the link.

http://youtu.be/tNeEyZYpMQ4

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Old 12-10-2012, 12:59 PM   #5890
brokeagain
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SWPA
Oddometer: 195
I don't know if this is against the rules, but there is a nice NX250 for sale in Western PA. I know the ad says barter, but when I spoke to him he said he'd sell it outright. Not in the cards for me, but maybe for you (yinz) guys.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/spo/3378800606.html
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:19 PM   #5891
polarized
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[QUOTE=thirstybuck;20219026]Scrambler - thanks for the reply and the pictures; that answered a lot of questions. I put the NX back together and rode it to work and back, about 6 miles. The new chain is great and the countershaft didn't

The countershaft is in good shape. I still think that that is a hell of a lot of lateral play, but I haven't had to deal with countershaft sprocket before. The back and forth play, chain directions, is much better than side to side. Tell me what you think.

I failed at getting the video to embed so you'll have to settle for the link.




thirstybuck:


It does seem a little more "loose" then the new sprocket I just put on mine, or even the old one I replaced.

Also, is that sprocket stock? My old one didn't look like that and the new Driven one I put on sure isn't like that either. I'm referring to the steel material on the face of the sprocket.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:25 PM   #5892
polarized
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fikse View Post
Does anyone know the sizes for wheel ball bearings and sealings, or know where I can find that info?
In need of replacing rear bearings, considering replacing all 5 wheel bearings when I'm at it :-)
Fikse:

I replaced all my bearings recently. I just ordered off of ebay. All Balls bearings.

Came with oil seals and all the bearings needed, no problems with install.

Cheap as well, maybe $30-40USD for front and rear shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:13 PM   #5893
PTC
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: masshole mofo
Oddometer: 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirstybuck View Post
Scrambler - thanks for the reply and the pictures; that answered a lot of questions. I put the NX back together and rode it to work and back, about 6 miles. The new chain is great and the countershaft didn't

The countershaft is in good shape. I still think that that is a hell of a lot of lateral play, but I haven't had to deal with countershaft sprocket before. The back and forth play, chain directions, is much better than side to side. Tell me what you think.

I failed at getting the video to embed so you'll have to settle for the link.

http://youtu.be/tNeEyZYpMQ4

The sprocket needs changing because it is hooked and worn. The play is fine side to side so long as the splines on the lock plate are not worn. Perfectly normal. Those bumps are "ramps " to help guide the chain on the origin al sprocket.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:20 PM   #5894
thirstybuck
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
sprocket

[QUOTE=polarized;20219825]
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirstybuck View Post
thirstybuck:


It does seem a little more "loose" then the new sprocket I just put on mine, or even the old one I replaced.

Also, is that sprocket stock? My old one didn't look like that and the new Driven one I put on sure isn't like that either. I'm referring to the steel material on the face of the sprocket.
I don't know, it was just what came on the bike when I got it. The guy I bought it from was big into quads so it might be some sheisty spare he had laying around. I thought it was weird too. Sprockets are cheap, so I can just order another one; I want to go up a tooth anyway for some more top end. My only concern is that the end of the shaft looks a little mushroomed out, like someone hit it a couple times with a hammer.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:24 PM   #5895
thirstybuck
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: NA
Oddometer: 80
Sprocket

Quote:
Originally Posted by PTC View Post
The sprocket needs changing because it is hooked and worn. The play is fine side to side so long as the splines on the lock plate are not worn. Perfectly normal. Those bumps are "ramps " to help guide the chain on the origin al sprocket.
PTC
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to order another sprocket. Do they come with the faceplate and bolts?
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