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Old 12-10-2012, 12:30 PM   #71746
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I've always been skeptical of the old 'warp your valves' claim. I can't see how a little bit of cool air could do any harm. Especially since the exhaust valve heads get a blast of cool air on every intake stroke anyway.

My own opinion of where this old wives tale came from is this: If the motor had a restrictive exhaust and loosing the whole system caused the fuel mixture to become too lean - then you could easily damage the exhaust valves,
We used to run drag boats with zoomies on them which is an exhaust pipe about 8" long coming off the head. Never had a valve problem. The big thing is to let the valves cool before shutting the motor off. When you work a bike (or anything) really hard those valves get super hot. If you just shut the bike off they then get cooled quickly. Doing this multiple times can cause the valves to lose their temper. It is always a good practice to let an engine idle/low rpm to let things cool down at a slower rate before shut down.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #71747
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bull600 View Post
Never had a problem using this type - it's independent of weather



Cheers
I just showed my wife this video....she thought there might be better options for garage door openers
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:02 PM   #71748
shu
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Location: Colorado
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For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:13 PM   #71749
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 5,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu
I wonder if that part of the needle is exposed to fuel enough that a little grease wouldn't stay?
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:38 PM   #71750
rogor
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Sydney, Aus
Oddometer: 33
Anyone have a spare oem header or is there a better option.[/QUOTE]



Just saw these on ebay. might be worth a look??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280998084...84.m1424.l2649
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:20 PM   #71751
dickensheets
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
I had same issue years ago. I wired a remote switch in a discreet location on the side of the house. I've since seen them offered with keypads for ciphers. I can open the garage from outside the house now as long as the power is on.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:54 PM   #71752
Midnightventure
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Eldon,Mo
Oddometer: 734
On my big bike I took a small remote, opened it up and soldered in switch with leads on it. Then put in a sandwich bag and installed behind a panel with the switch installed in a hole I drilled in the panel.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #71753
shaddix
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Central AL
Oddometer: 647
I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:32 PM   #71754
Ren20
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Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 111
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:36 PM   #71755
Fire Escape
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Epsom, NH
Oddometer: 1,542
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
What kind of rubber did you decide to put on them?

I bought them very slightly used with Dunlop Roadsmart tires installed. 120 on front and 150 rear, the rear has more than adequate clearance but doesn't seem like it will fit when you first try to 'negotiate' it into place. There is probably 'racier' rubber that could be used but these are definitely more than racy enough for my meager skills or courage to challenge.


Bruce
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:11 PM   #71756
VooDooDaddy
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: SW Iowa
Oddometer: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
I just did my NSU screws a few days ago as well. I noticed on the inside of the clutch cover/left side engine cover, where the clutch rod fits into the cover/case, there are serrated 'teeth' on both the inside of the cover and the end of the clutch rod. These teeth need to engage each other. Basically when you installed the engine/clutch cover, the teeth of the clutch rod should have been at about a 3 o'clock position as you look at the bike from the left side while installing the cover.

While I'm not sure I am using the correct terminology for these parts/covers, etc., this is the best way I can explain the process. I would hazard a guess that when you re-installed the clutch/engine cover; these sets of 'teeth' are not engaging each other....?

When I did the NSU fix, I removed and re-installed the entire clutch assembly. It all went back together rather smoothly, and the bike runs/rides perfectly upon the test ride almost immediately after the repair.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:21 PM   #71757
Escaped
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Northern California
Oddometer: 465
Sounds like you have air in the system. You need to pump fluid from the reservoir through the brake line out the caliper until it runs clear. Pump until tight, loosen bleed valve, squirt, hold lever, tighten bleed valve, repeat. You cant short cut it.
Use bleed tube on nipple of course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...


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Old 12-10-2012, 11:38 PM   #71758
LucasLeader
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
We installed some of these at my old job: http://www.biketronics.com/products/...te-Opener.html

A ziploc bag is a lot cheaper.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:41 PM   #71759
LucasLeader
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...
I used the same method as you with the syringe and it worked fine. To get some of the air out you can hold the wheel and push the caliper out and then pump the lever. This can help firm it out. Also you can tie the lever down overnight and some of the air will work its way out of the line.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:49 PM   #71760
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,926
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
It's easy once you understand it. I'm guessing you just need to rotate the arm clock wise, one tooth on the spline. If that isn't enough, try two teeth.

Here are pics and more info.

You're trying to get the arm to rotate freely between pic 4 and 5.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=33

VooDooDaddy mentioned the spline on the clutch itself has to face the front of the bike (first pic in the link). I don't if the cover will go on if the spline is pointing any other direction. It spins freely and is easy enough to bump out of position.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-10-2012 at 11:57 PM
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