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Old 12-10-2012, 05:54 PM   #71761
Midnightventure
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Location: Eldon,Mo
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On my big bike I took a small remote, opened it up and soldered in switch with leads on it. Then put in a sandwich bag and installed behind a panel with the switch installed in a hole I drilled in the panel.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:29 PM   #71762
shaddix
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I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:32 PM   #71763
Ren20
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Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:36 PM   #71764
Fire Escape
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Location: Epsom, NH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
What kind of rubber did you decide to put on them?

I bought them very slightly used with Dunlop Roadsmart tires installed. 120 on front and 150 rear, the rear has more than adequate clearance but doesn't seem like it will fit when you first try to 'negotiate' it into place. There is probably 'racier' rubber that could be used but these are definitely more than racy enough for my meager skills or courage to challenge.


Bruce
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:11 PM   #71765
VooDooDaddy
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: SW Iowa
Oddometer: 165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
I just did my NSU screws a few days ago as well. I noticed on the inside of the clutch cover/left side engine cover, where the clutch rod fits into the cover/case, there are serrated 'teeth' on both the inside of the cover and the end of the clutch rod. These teeth need to engage each other. Basically when you installed the engine/clutch cover, the teeth of the clutch rod should have been at about a 3 o'clock position as you look at the bike from the left side while installing the cover.

While I'm not sure I am using the correct terminology for these parts/covers, etc., this is the best way I can explain the process. I would hazard a guess that when you re-installed the clutch/engine cover; these sets of 'teeth' are not engaging each other....?

When I did the NSU fix, I removed and re-installed the entire clutch assembly. It all went back together rather smoothly, and the bike runs/rides perfectly upon the test ride almost immediately after the repair.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:21 PM   #71766
Escaped
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Sounds like you have air in the system. You need to pump fluid from the reservoir through the brake line out the caliper until it runs clear. Pump until tight, loosen bleed valve, squirt, hold lever, tighten bleed valve, repeat. You cant short cut it.
Use bleed tube on nipple of course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...


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Old 12-10-2012, 11:38 PM   #71767
LucasLeader
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Location: Chico, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
We installed some of these at my old job: http://www.biketronics.com/products/...te-Opener.html

A ziploc bag is a lot cheaper.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:41 PM   #71768
LucasLeader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...
I used the same method as you with the syringe and it worked fine. To get some of the air out you can hold the wheel and push the caliper out and then pump the lever. This can help firm it out. Also you can tie the lever down overnight and some of the air will work its way out of the line.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:49 PM   #71769
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
It's easy once you understand it. I'm guessing you just need to rotate the arm clock wise, one tooth on the spline. If that isn't enough, try two teeth.

Here are pics and more info.

You're trying to get the arm to rotate freely between pic 4 and 5.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=33

VooDooDaddy mentioned the spline on the clutch itself has to face the front of the bike (first pic in the link). I don't if the cover will go on if the spline is pointing any other direction. It spins freely and is easy enough to bump out of position.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-10-2012 at 11:57 PM
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:48 AM   #71770
Magnum Noel
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Garage Door Remote Control

Thanks DEVAN8101, ROGOR. BULL600 [hehe], DICKENSHEETS, LUCUSLEADER and MIDNIGHTVENTURE.
MidNight I"m thinking I might go with your idea sounds great and relatively cheap.
cheers everyone
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:34 AM   #71771
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
I did exactly the same thing and made the mistake of carefully marking the spline etc with a texture before removing. I put it back on exactly to the mark and low and behold, now clutch.

I thought I botched something up big time but remembered the 'clockwise' technique on this forum and it fixed it. I'm still not sure how the clutch engages, as there seems to be minimal movement in the actual clutch itself. But anyway, it works.

Take your time and you'll work out it .

cya
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:37 AM   #71772
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I did exactly the same thing and made the mistake of carefully marking the spline etc with a texture before removing. I put it back on exactly to the mark and low and behold, now clutch.

I thought I botched something up big time but remembered the 'clockwise' technique on this forum and it fixed it. I'm still not sure how the clutch engages, as there seems to be minimal movement in the actual clutch itself. But anyway, it works.

Take your time and you'll work out it .

cya
I did the same thing- marked it only to find out that didnt help

I basically lined the cover up, started turning the top shaft on the cover clockwise and slipped the cover on. I then made sure all the slack was out as I slipped the clutch arm (connected to the clutch cable) on. I then made sure the lever had a little slack by adjusting the cable at the lever with the adjuster.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:30 AM   #71773
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
Oddometer: 1,318
needle wear

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu
Here's a pic of my needle wear at around 35000km after having the small washer that came with dyno jet kit placed under the nylon washer to raise the needle slightly. I now run th DJ needle.

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Old 12-11-2012, 07:11 AM   #71774
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
Kind of an expensive solution, but works.

http://www.motoadv.com/products/Flas...ge-Opener.html
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:47 AM   #71775
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu
Needle wear as in the picture is the result of slide guide wear in its advanced stages, when the slide becomes constrained by the needle in the emulsion tube rather than by the slide guide. The emulsion tube's outlet will be be enlarged and/or ovaled, and the slide is likely to have an enlarged and/or ovaled needle hole along with exhibiting vertical grooving on the downstream side. I'd be very surprised if the slide guide, emulsion tube, and slide were not in need of replacement. You can verify by having a look at the indentations in the bottom corners adjacent to the bore (not to be confused with the round indentations). If they are less than .010" (0.25mm) deep, the guide should be replaced. Non-nickel plated emulsion tubes are pretty much guaranteed to be worn out when the guide is worn more than .010" (0.25mm). Nickel plated versions are a more wear resistant, but I don't know by how much. Have a look at:

http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=298, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=299, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=300, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=301, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=302, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=304, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=303 and http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=305.

Perhaps the slide, slide guide, and emulsion tube out of the carb you got the needle and diaphragm from could be used? Or why not the whole carb?

Regards,

Derek
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