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Old 12-11-2012, 11:33 AM   #16
1greenmachine OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chollo9 View Post
Sounds like you're goin' about it the right way then.
Yeah 90% of my driving is within 15 miles of home and could get someone out to me quick if needed, i'll change to oil out this weekend, i can't believe you have almost 400k on your car.wow
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:05 PM   #17
GreaseMonkey
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Did you save any of the shiny metal parts and look at them under a microscope? Did you check them with a magnet even? Do you know if anyone ever added oil to this engine and had the foil seal fall into the motor, and you are finding the ground up bits now? As mentioned, have you even put an oil pressure gauge on it and seen what the pressures are?

If you have not even bothered to see what the oil pressure is how can you decide that a car that isn't even yours needs a new engine? Also, if you have rebuilt engines before I am curious as to why you think it needs a new one instead of replacing the oil pump and inspecting the crank journals?

I suspect you need to focus more on the relationship with your girlfriend and less on her car.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:27 PM   #18
1greenmachine OP
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Did you save any of the shiny metal parts and look at them under a microscope? Did you check them with a magnet even? Do you know if anyone ever added oil to this engine and had the foil seal fall into the motor, and you are finding the ground up bits now? As mentioned, have you even put an oil pressure gauge on it and seen what the pressures are?

If you have not even bothered to see what the oil pressure is how can you decide that a car that isn't even yours needs a new engine? Also, if you have rebuilt engines before I am curious as to why you think it needs a new one instead of replacing the oil pump and inspecting the crank journals?

I suspect you need to focus more on the relationship with your girlfriend and less on her car.
lol i deserve that and well i jumped the boat, mainly i was looking for advice, the old oil filter i'm takeing to work with me, and i'm bringing pressure guages home with me, She got the car used with 70k, and in the last year its been treated very well with timely oil changes versus before me so who knows. ialso am bringing in the drain pan to look at the stuff..

My main reason for not tearing it down is a 26* unheated garge, so i truthfully dont want to tear it down in here, and at 120k if its apart than it would be smart to replace alot of the wear stuff that might add up to being close to what a long block costs. I looked at the cams and they were good, looked down the timing side and didn't see anything either.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:43 PM   #19
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120k is nothing for most decently maintained Japanese motors. I'd be more concerned with an auto tranny letting go. Like I said, I wouldn't be too concerned unless you see continued signs.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:34 PM   #20
chollo9
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Originally Posted by 1greenmachine View Post
Yeah 90% of my driving is within 15 miles of home and could get someone out to me quick if needed, i'll change to oil out this weekend, i can't believe you have almost 400k on your car.wow
I've had great luck with the first gen MPVs. My wife loves driving them and they are tanks. Add in my Dodge 4x4, an Airhead, a 250 GasGas, and a Massey Ferguson 3660 and I'm pretty solid.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:44 PM   #21
chollo9
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Originally Posted by 1greenmachine View Post
lol i deserve that and well i jumped the boat, mainly i was looking for advice, the old oil filter i'm takeing to work with me, and i'm bringing pressure guages home with me, She got the car used with 70k, and in the last year its been treated very well with timely oil changes versus before me so who knows. ialso am bringing in the drain pan to look at the stuff..

My main reason for not tearing it down is a 26* unheated garge, so i truthfully dont want to tear it down in here, and at 120k if its apart than it would be smart to replace alot of the wear stuff that might add up to being close to what a long block costs. I looked at the cams and they were good, looked down the timing side and didn't see anything either.
Hard to justify doing it yourself given what long blocks go for. I rebuild Porsche engines to pay the mortgage, but I would buy a crate motor if I needed one for my truck because the numbers just don't add up.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:52 PM   #22
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Hard to justify doing it yourself given what long blocks go for. I rebuild Porsche engines to pay the mortgage, but I would buy a crate motor if I needed one for my truck because the numbers just don't add up.
Thats what we talked about because if its out then would be smart to replace that stuff, plus if something lets go in the used head or timing stuff then the engine gets trashed, plus adding stuff up it doesn't take long to come close to the cars worth. A long block plus other needed parts add up really fast to, now my 06 chevy i would long block because its worth alot more than the cost would be.
I looked at the filter at work with the good magnifying glass and saw nothing, looked at what was left in the drain pan and didn't really see anything bad, i just overeacted because i know how hard she worked to pay off this car and for the engine to be bad would really suck. So my plan is run it for the week, then i'm gonna change to oil and filter to just see if anything is in there and then we'll run it from there, i thank you guys that have offered advice.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:18 AM   #23
scooteraug02
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My friend made a lot of money swapping out engines in Hondas and Toyotas. Supposedly Japan ships over containers full of engines with about 60K miles on them. In Japan taxes and inspections get ridiculous at about 60K miles so they buy new cars and scrap the old ones. The engines are sent here for resale.

He would get a 60K engine dropped off at his house for $400. He would pull the old engine replace the timing belt, water pump, and rear seal. Then he would put manifolds from old on new and reinstall. Cars start up and purr like a kitten.

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Old 12-12-2012, 12:20 PM   #24
electroken
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The main cause of Mazda 2.3 engines losing oil suddenly is dumb-asses cracking the plastic oil filter housing. A popular remedy is installing the filter mount for the 2.0, which uses a conventional spin-on filter.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:02 PM   #25
1greenmachine OP
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Yep the oil filter design is like crap, hers was all stripped so i got a new cap and also the mazda filter wrench so it doesn't get stripped again. I read about that conversion and that would be nice.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:12 AM   #26
Mambo Dave
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All I know, and that I want to suggest you avoid, is to stay away from ATK rebuilt engines.

I'd rather get a used one from Japan, if you could find a source, than a new long block from Mexico.

Having been in the used car business for about 25 years, also... if you go to a wrecker yard to get an engine, demand that you either see it in the car before they pull it, or find the serial number on the already pulled engine and go out to the yard to match some of those to a VIN - all with the point of putting eyes on the car's odometer.

From first-hand experience bone-yard motors that are already pulled seem to have 20k to 40k miles subtracted from them from the time they leave to car until the time they get into the storage room. I've caught enough bone-yard guys in their pretty far off guess-timations to just not trust them anymore.

How you would ever verify the true mileage of a shipped-over Jap motor is beyond me.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:27 AM   #27
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Well i've been putting a bunch of miles on the car and the worse thing i've found is that its gonna suck when i get my car back. The engine is doing fine, probaly do a oil change this weekend or in a few weeks, but we decided if it would come to pulling the engine out we'd probaly just trade the car for something else.
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