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Old 12-10-2012, 10:41 PM   #71776
LucasLeader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
I replaced my brake fluid tonight on the front... didn't realize I needed a socket for the rear so it still has the old stuff.

Anyway, how do I know if I did it correctly? I used a syringe and pumped it up from the caliper to the reservoir instead of using the lever to pump it out. I then did a few pumps with the lever doing it the normal way to make sure no air in the caliper. I can pull on the lever and it activates the brakes early in the available movement of the lever, but if I pull harder I am capable of pulling the lever back to the grip. The pads are brand new...
I used the same method as you with the syringe and it worked fine. To get some of the air out you can hold the wheel and push the caliper out and then pump the lever. This can help firm it out. Also you can tie the lever down overnight and some of the air will work its way out of the line.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:49 PM   #71777
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
It's easy once you understand it. I'm guessing you just need to rotate the arm clock wise, one tooth on the spline. If that isn't enough, try two teeth.

Here are pics and more info.

You're trying to get the arm to rotate freely between pic 4 and 5.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=33

VooDooDaddy mentioned the spline on the clutch itself has to face the front of the bike (first pic in the link). I don't if the cover will go on if the spline is pointing any other direction. It spins freely and is easy enough to bump out of position.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-10-2012 at 10:57 PM
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:48 PM   #71778
Magnum Noel
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Garage Door Remote Control

Thanks DEVAN8101, ROGOR. BULL600 [hehe], DICKENSHEETS, LUCUSLEADER and MIDNIGHTVENTURE.
MidNight I"m thinking I might go with your idea sounds great and relatively cheap.
cheers everyone
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:34 AM   #71779
Thumper Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Some one show me how to adjust the clutch properly?

As you recall, I did the NSU screw fix Saturday. Tried to put the clutch release arm back to original position. but the clutch lever has no tension. Does the arm need to be in specific angle before I adjust the cable?

I did a search. Someone mentioned the release arm could be in a wrong position.

teach me please
I did exactly the same thing and made the mistake of carefully marking the spline etc with a texture before removing. I put it back on exactly to the mark and low and behold, now clutch.

I thought I botched something up big time but remembered the 'clockwise' technique on this forum and it fixed it. I'm still not sure how the clutch engages, as there seems to be minimal movement in the actual clutch itself. But anyway, it works.

Take your time and you'll work out it .

cya
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:37 AM   #71780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I did exactly the same thing and made the mistake of carefully marking the spline etc with a texture before removing. I put it back on exactly to the mark and low and behold, now clutch.

I thought I botched something up big time but remembered the 'clockwise' technique on this forum and it fixed it. I'm still not sure how the clutch engages, as there seems to be minimal movement in the actual clutch itself. But anyway, it works.

Take your time and you'll work out it .

cya
I did the same thing- marked it only to find out that didnt help

I basically lined the cover up, started turning the top shaft on the cover clockwise and slipped the cover on. I then made sure all the slack was out as I slipped the clutch arm (connected to the clutch cable) on. I then made sure the lever had a little slack by adjusting the cable at the lever with the adjuster.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:30 AM   #71781
kezzajohnson
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needle wear

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu
Here's a pic of my needle wear at around 35000km after having the small washer that came with dyno jet kit placed under the nylon washer to raise the needle slightly. I now run th DJ needle.

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Old 12-11-2012, 06:11 AM   #71782
Albie
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Location: Upstate SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
Kind of an expensive solution, but works.

http://www.motoadv.com/products/Flas...ge-Opener.html
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:47 AM   #71783
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
For those running the stock BST carburetor (no jetting or needle changes, no holes drilled) here is a pic of needle wear after 52,000 miles (83,000 Km).



Just a tiny bit of 'stepping'. (not a great pic but if you enlarge it on your screen you can see it a little better.)

I replaced it and the diaphragm anyway with parts from an almost new carb that I bought here for a nice price.

........shu
Needle wear as in the picture is the result of slide guide wear in its advanced stages, when the slide becomes constrained by the needle in the emulsion tube rather than by the slide guide. The emulsion tube's outlet will be be enlarged and/or ovaled, and the slide is likely to have an enlarged and/or ovaled needle hole along with exhibiting vertical grooving on the downstream side. I'd be very surprised if the slide guide, emulsion tube, and slide were not in need of replacement. You can verify by having a look at the indentations in the bottom corners adjacent to the bore (not to be confused with the round indentations). If they are less than .010" (0.25mm) deep, the guide should be replaced. Non-nickel plated emulsion tubes are pretty much guaranteed to be worn out when the guide is worn more than .010" (0.25mm). Nickel plated versions are a more wear resistant, but I don't know by how much. Have a look at:

http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=298, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=299, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=300, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=301, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=302, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=304, http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=303 and http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=305.

Perhaps the slide, slide guide, and emulsion tube out of the carb you got the needle and diaphragm from could be used? Or why not the whole carb?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:04 AM   #71784
thetable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Toast View Post
Has anyone here experimented with this? It looks pretty interesting and I'm considering taking a shot at it. (After I get my front suspension sorted so it will handle better, or any, braking).
I am running it on my DR-Tard, and it feels incredible, much more linear than any other setup I've run on other bikes. I can't directly compare to the stock setup on the DR, as I bought mine with the Brembo, and big rotor, but I can tell you that the Brembo lever/EBC supermoto rotor/EBC caliper relocation bracket/stock caliper is the most linear brake feeling I've ever experienced, even moreso than the few bikes I've ridden and owned that came stock with radial MCs and calipers.

Now on the same note, I'm not sure that I would have dropped the money on the Brembo unit, but since it came included, I really like it. Maybe one day, I'll even get around to putting a brake light switch on it.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:17 PM   #71785
gplassm
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I'm out.

After a decent run with my bone stock 1996 DR650, I sold it to my brother this past weekend. I also sold my street legal KDX200. The DR was pretty. It was fun - even two-up. It was a better street bike than it was a dirt bike. It was as reliable as a cinder block. I will miss it, but it was time to move on. My brother (pplassm) intends to install RMZ suspension, and make it into a good dirt bike - something I never wanted or expected from it. I don't know what I will buy next. Maybe a CRF250L, maybe a KTM RFS. I am pretty much wide open to suggestions. I want something more dirt capable, but still commuter friendly. I hope find something that combines the best qualities of the KDX and the DR650.
FWIW - Out of all the bikes I have owned, my wife liked riding on the back of the big DR the best. She ended up sitting in the little space between the end of the seat and the rack, but said that it was the only bike that she could ride on for hours, without needing a break. I had lowered the passenger pegs quite a bit.
With that - I'm out. I wish all of you well!
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #71786
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gplassm View Post
After a decent run with my bone stock 1996 DR650, I sold it to my brother this past weekend. I also sold my street legal KDX200. The DR was pretty. It was fun - even two-up. It was a better street bike than it was a dirt bike. It was as reliable as a cinder block. I will miss it, but it was time to move on. My brother (pplassm) intends to install RMZ suspension, and make it into a good dirt bike - something I never wanted or expected from it. I don't know what I will buy next. Maybe a CRF250L, maybe a KTM RFS. I am pretty much wide open to suggestions. I want something more dirt capable, but still commuter friendly. I hope find something that combines the best qualities of the KDX and the DR650.
FWIW - Out of all the bikes I have owned, my wife liked riding on the back of the big DR the best. She ended up sitting in the little space between the end of the seat and the rack, but said that it was the only bike that she could ride on for hours, without needing a break. I had lowered the passenger pegs quite a bit.
With that - I'm out. I wish all of you well!
I want something more dirt capable, but still commuter friendly.

you might check out the wr250r. with weight reduction mods and suspension work it does both.
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:45 PM   #71787
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
check out the wr250r.
X2
The WR250R would be at the top of the list.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:14 PM   #71788
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
X2
The WR250R would be at the top of the list.
I'll agree and say, you might be looking at a DRZ400 too. I have an RFS and the footpegs and bars vibe too much for any longer street rides. I'm sick of it at 5 miles, and it is only about half of what my 2 stroke KTM was like.

I predict, you'll have another DR650 someday.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:03 PM   #71789
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gplassm View Post
I want something more dirt capable, but still commuter friendly. I hope find something that combines the best qualities of the KDX and the DR650.
FWIW - Out of all the bikes I have owned, my wife liked riding on the back of the big DR the best. She ended up sitting in the little space between the end of the seat and the rack, but said that it was the only bike that she could ride on for hours, without needing a break. I had lowered the passenger pegs quite a bit.
With that - I'm out. I wish all of you well!
Good luck finding something that works ... but you ask a lot when you add the Two UP feature.

A WR250R is not going to cut it unless your wife is super petite and a professional gymnast or pro dancer (toughest women in the world!).
Got to go ONE WAY or THE OTHER. Not ALL WAYS at once ALL on one bike!

Agree W/what others have said: ... the DR650 is, IMO, about as close to a DO IT ALL bike as there is, especially if you figure in reliability and price.

I first rode a '96 DR650 ... that was in '96! Had owned an XL600R, new '92 XR650L before the '96 DR650. To me, at the time, the DR was just "OK". But I never did even one mod on it. (it was a Suzuki press bike so only spent a couple weeks with it)

Several bikes since ... including new KLR650 ('98), '01 KTM 640, XR250R, DRZ400. The KTM was a terrible street bike for me; TOO TALL, worst vibes of anything I've ever ridden.

Years later, came back to the DR650 after venturing through many sport bikes, TDM850, BMW's and Moto Guzzi and Vstrom's.
In '06 re-discovered the DR650 ... got onto the good mods and have never looked back. I love it.

I still have my NON plated WR250F for real dirt riding, but for fire roads, Desert and Baja the DR is quite impressive. With a Corbin seat its ten hour a day capable, can haul a huge load or passenger. Has never missed a beat. How many KTM owners can honestly state that after 50K miles?

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 12-11-2012 at 06:27 PM
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:00 PM   #71790
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
you ask a lot when you add the Two UP feature.
A WR250R is not going to cut it
+1 The WR250R is a pretty amazing little bike but like Grifter says nothing is going to be decent on trails and commuting and still be acceptable for hauling a passenger (except a DR650)

You might as well start shopping for your new DR now. You wouldn't be the first one around here to sell their DR only to get another one a year or so later.
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