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Old 12-11-2012, 12:44 PM   #16711
150ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoBoss View Post
I'd like to try and avoid an issue like BEEF706. I have a 2011, so would the Raptor 660 petcock work as well on my bike.

I'm new to the DRZ world, as you can see by my avatar a KLR, now gone.

Thanks
I allready have the Yamaha petcock on my drz, on/off/reserve, and still had the same problem he had with a hydrolocked engine full of gas, my problem was the o-ring around the valve seat in the carb bowl, pretty easy fix,

When my engine was hydrolocked, i did not know the proper way to drain it out, i just kept cranking and cranking until it started
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:14 PM   #16712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
I allready have the Yamaha petcock on my drz, on/off/reserve, and still had the same problem he had with a hydrolocked engine full of gas, my problem was the o-ring around the valve seat in the carb bowl, pretty easy fix,

When my engine was hydrolocked, i did not know the proper way to drain it out, i just kept cranking and cranking until it started
Any images of the O ring location
Oh and where did you get it
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:21 PM   #16713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoBoss View Post
I'd like to try and avoid an issue like BEEF706. I have a 2011, so would the Raptor 660 petcock work as well on my bike.

I'm new to the DRZ world, as you can see by my avatar a KLR, now gone.

Thanks
Ok you guys so here it is. Raptor 660 petcock, Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 . It was about $26 when I bought mine. It fits on exactly like your Suzuki one internally and at mount holes. Cap off your vacuum line right on the carb itself with a cap that fits from your auto parts store and safety wire it on the carb.... no leaks!

If you are thinking each time ,you will shut it off at the tank and then you will NEVER hydraulic your engine overnight no matter WHAT your carb does. There is not that much gas just in your float bowl.
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #16714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Recycled Teenager View Post
Any images of the O ring location
Oh and where did you get it
You see part number #18 in this chart

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/oem...007&model=5203

its that little o-ring that sits around the valve seat, i removed the valve seat and the o-ring was completely flat, took it with me to orielly auto parts and found one that looked the same, that fixed up the problem, but just to be safe, i now turn the fuel to the OFF postion when the bike is gonna be sitting for a few days or so.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:24 PM   #16715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 150ron View Post
You see part number #18 in this chart

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/oem...007&model=5203

its that little o-ring that sits around the valve seat, i removed the valve seat and the o-ring was completely flat, took it with me to orielly auto parts and found one that looked the same, that fixed up the problem, but just to be safe, i now turn the fuel to the OFF postion when the bike is gonna be sitting for a few days or so.
Call me crazy, but I turn my fuel off every night. It can easily fill the cylinder overnight. Keep fuel out of the engine, check your oil and coolant on a regular basis. Your DRZ will last a very long time.

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Old 12-11-2012, 02:38 PM   #16716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixfords View Post
Call me crazy, but I turn my fuel off every night. It can easily fill the cylinder overnight. Keep fuel out of the engine, check your oil and coolant on a regular basis. Your DRZ will last a very long time.

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If you're flooding your cylinder with fuel your carb float is not shutting the fuel flow down properly.
Fixing your carb will help.
I never had that problem (with my DRZ's) but I bought the petcock from eBay that allows you to shut the fuel off so I wouldn't need to rebuild my carbs every year with the crap ethanol we get here.
I was on the highway for 3 exits with it off before it actually starved for fuel.
I shot the lock off my wallet and bought a Pingel for my "S" and another for my "SM".
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:55 PM   #16717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing View Post
If you're flooding your cylinder with fuel your carb float is not shutting the fuel flow down properly.
Fixing your carb will help.
I never had that problem (with my DRZ's) but I bought the petcock from eBay that allows you to shut the fuel off so I wouldn't need to rebuild my carbs every year with the crap ethanol we get here.
I was on the highway for 3 exits with it off before it actually starved for fuel.
I shot the lock off my wallet and bought a Pingel for my "S" and another for my "SM".
Sorry, I should have stated that more clearly. I don't have a problem, just planning on avoiding the possibility. I really like my DRZ just like it is. :)



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ifixfords screwed with this post 12-11-2012 at 03:06 PM
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:20 PM   #16718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifixfords View Post
Sorry, I should have stated that more clearly. I don't have a problem, just planning on avoiding the possibility. I really like my DRZ just like it is. :)



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I like the stock Fuel Petcock because when I drop the bike, which is often, fuel doesn't come pouring out the side of the carb. I have 20,000 miles and my bike is 11 years old, I run crappy fuel through it and have never had any problems with the petcock.
When I wipe out and am a little shaked up, I don't want to have to run over to my bike because gas is rapidly spilling out. I like that I can leave the bike down while I cry and swear.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:30 PM   #16719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
Ok you guys so here it is. Raptor 660 petcock, Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 . It was about $26 when I bought mine. It fits on exactly like your Suzuki one internally and at mount holes. Cap off your vacuum line right on the carb itself with a cap that fits from your auto parts store and safety wire it on the carb.... no leaks!

If you are thinking each time ,you will shut it off at the tank and then you will NEVER hydraulic your engine overnight no matter WHAT your carb does. There is not that much gas just in your float bowl.
Or you can use a golf tee and zip tie. It's worked for me for two years.

*former KLR owner here...
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:38 PM   #16720
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I agree with the above idea. Even though i needed to install new valves and basically do an entire top end rebuild after having my petcock leak and fill the case. i still like the vac operated petcock.

I think some people in here mis-understand the reason for using the raptor petcock. It is so you can shut the fuel off manually every time you stop the bike.

The stock petcock actually does shut off when its not running. Its done through a vacuum line from the carb that activates a diaphragm. This is nice for when you take a spill because the float in the carb stays open when a bike is on its side, and when the bike shuts off it will cut fuel flow so that you dont spill gas out the overflow.

The reason for the raptor petcock is to protect yourself from when multiple things happen:
-The diaphragm in the stock petcock gets worn and doesnt do its job
-the o-ring in the carb is old/cracked/flattened
-the overflow on the carb is clogged or not working.

Those 3 things go wrong and you hydro-lock. The raptor petcock is so you manually shut the fuel down instead of relying on the diaphragm, eliminating the first thing in the line of events. BUT Leave the raptor petcock in the on position and you basically just made it so 2 things need to fail instead of 3, a worse situation.

Sorry to write a book and take everyone to school, but i really want everyone to understand the reasoning behind the use of the raptor petcock so we can avoid the hydro-lock issue all together. Basically if you do the raptor petcock, remember to shut off your fuel every time you stop and park.

that being said... my set up is: Stock petcock, Inline fuel filter, Inline shutoff valve. The shutoff valve being my backup to the diaphragm in the petcock.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #16721
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In Line Shut Off Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-Zamboni View Post
.
So, where did you pick this up?
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:59 PM   #16722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-Zamboni View Post
.

that being said... my set up is: Stock petcock, Inline fuel filter, Inline shutoff valve. The shutoff valve being my backup to the diaphragm in the petcock.
Filter & that shutoff valve... can you post a photo of your setup? There is not a lot of room there to mount both of those.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:45 PM   #16723
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I got both the fuel filter and shut off valve on ebay... total cost with shipping was $10 or less. I really like being able to cut the fuel without having to give up the vacuum operate petcock for when i drop the bike in the woods. Not to mention you can do this modification in 5 mins without any tools other than a pocket knife. Heres what mine looks like: had some blue gas line laying around that i cut up. The 90 degree shut off valve is a must, the only way to get it to fit without a loop in the line.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:08 AM   #16724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing View Post
If you're flooding your cylinder with fuel your carb float is not shutting the fuel flow down properly.
Fixing your carb will help.
I never had that problem (with my DRZ's) but I bought the petcock from eBay that allows you to shut the fuel off so I wouldn't need to rebuild my carbs every year with the crap ethanol we get here.
I was on the highway for 3 exits with it off before it actually starved for fuel.
I shot the lock off my wallet and bought a Pingel for my "S" and another for my "SM".
Lmfao! "Shot the lock"



Wooooo that's too funnay at 4 am!
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:53 AM   #16725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-Zamboni View Post
I got both the fuel filter and shut off valve on ebay... total cost with shipping was $10 or less.
Pretty interesting set up. Thanks for the pic, I didn't realize it was a 90 degree shut off valve. Makes sense.
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