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Old 12-10-2012, 05:09 PM   #46
Hootowl OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
you can screw around with all these other methods, or spend 30 seconds with a hammer and chisel. you can even cut the slot with the chisel. you don't even need a 1/4 turn. you don't need to be at an exact right angle to it - even a bit of an angle and downward, and enough to turn the head left just a bit.
I'll try that tomorrow.
My only concern is that if the bolt was over torqued enough to cause the socket to strip is a hammer & chisel going to be enough?
I'll find out
Richard
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:36 PM   #47
pennswoodsed
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my vote

Am I missing something about dropping motor ? I wouldn't risk sending chips and shards into something like this 990 engine. Drop motor , remove fastener(s all needed) clean area thoroughly. Reinstall engine, Change oil,Ride!
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:06 PM   #48
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dunno if it's been suggested yet:

An extractor that has been ground down at the tip so it won't bottom out in the socket before getting a solid bite on the walls. Worked for me more than once.

Edit: the greasey monkey on post 29 beat me to it...
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:13 PM   #49
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Am I missing something about dropping motor ? I wouldn't risk sending chips and shards into something like this 990 engine. Drop motor , remove fastener(s all needed) clean area thoroughly. Reinstall engine, Change oil,Ride!
Regards,Ed
Everything but the bolt head is covered with rags. I'm extremely obsessed with cleanliness around any open engine area.
Even if the engine is removed from the frame the problem of contamination remains.
The bolt that I'm working on is inclined steeply from vertical so that any metal chips will tend to fall away from any openings into the engine. No so with the bolts on the front of the cylinder.
I wouldn't do anything that would jeopardize the longevity or mechanical integrity of the 990 engine
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:17 PM   #50
D.T.
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Question

Haven't got it out yet?? What is the torque spec of that bolt?
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:19 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Hootowl View Post
I'll try that tomorrow.
My only concern is that if the bolt was over torqued enough to cause the socket to strip is a hammer & chisel going to be enough?
I'll find out
Richard
yes a hammer and chisel will be enough. you may have to wack it a few times. you have so much more force applied with the hammer and chisel method. you may want to use a flat ended punch first directly on the head to shock the threads free. i really should make a video of this method, i use it 99% of the time when i'm splitting cases on vintage motors.. - i can't believe i couldn't find a good one on youtube. here's one (although not a very good shot) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ci7l_Ir5gso countersunk screws are by far the hardest to get out..
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:14 AM   #52
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A guy I work with had a set of these yesterday and told me to get a set. Seems pretty handy, and expensive.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:04 AM   #53
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Screw pliers

Screw pliers are life savers. I've used them on more than one occasion.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:11 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
What is the torque spec of that bolt?
18nm

BTDT, in a friend's engine one of those bolts was so damn tight i've almost bent a wrench to remove it.
I had luck with a good quality allen insert, the fit was really tight so i wasn't afraid to apply torque.

I would hit it with a punch in the center, but I don't remember how beefy is the head there.
Instead of dropping the engine completely, if you swing it down you should have enough room to grab the bolt with a vicegrip, but still some stuff needs to be removed.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:54 PM   #55
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you can screw around with all these other methods, or spend 30 seconds with a hammer and chisel. .
Tried it today. No workie.
The chisel just pealed away part of the cap. The bolt didn't budge.
I thought these bolts were hardened steel? Didn't act like they were.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:15 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootowl View Post
Tried it today. No workie.
The chisel just pealed away part of the cap. The bolt didn't budge.
I thought these bolts were hardened steel? Didn't act like they were.
Try reading post #44.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:18 PM   #57
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Try reading post #44.
Right. the next step.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:24 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootowl View Post
Tried it today. No workie.
The chisel just pealed away part of the cap. The bolt didn't budge.
I thought these bolts were hardened steel? Didn't act like they were.
dull chisel or flat punch for turning it then. or slot was not cut deep enough.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:22 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
dull chisel or flat punch for turning it then. or slot was not cut deep enough.
I find a centre punch works really well.....
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:19 AM   #60
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Seems like it may be time to drop the engine. If you'd done that at first this would be a done deal. Sometimes what seems to be the hard way isn't in the long run.
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