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Old 12-11-2012, 07:10 PM   #4306
gumbellion
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Tomorrow night I will get the tape measure out and get some measures. I have a 32 inseam in jeans, 5-10 tall, weigh 165. With a xmoto seat it sits the same as the stock shock with stock seat. I dont have a mark with ohlins and stock seat because they were both winter modifications. Tomorrow I will put on the stock seat and measure though since i sold my moto seat. I have heard 2 inches at the tail taller with ohlins. Who knows.
What I do know is that it is the best 700 I have spend on any bike ever. The only thing that comes close was a set of super moto wheels for a street legal YZ426, but that mod got me tickets, so its got downsides too.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:04 PM   #4307
Geoffster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MizzouRider View Post
I hate to admit I'm such a poor mechanic. I swapped out chain and sprockets a while back. The front sprocket has no locking washer, or anything to keep that bolt in place.
I put some locktite on it, but it still makes me nervous.
Is there something I'm missing? Anyone else wonder about this? Just tighten it as much as you dare and go?
Thx..
Blue Loctite and lots of torque seems to work just fine.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:49 PM   #4308
Butters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbellion View Post
Tomorrow night I will get the tape measure out and get some measures. I have a 32 inseam in jeans, 5-10 tall, weigh 165. With a xmoto seat it sits the same as the stock shock with stock seat. I dont have a mark with ohlins and stock seat because they were both winter modifications. Tomorrow I will put on the stock seat and measure though since i sold my moto seat. I have heard 2 inches at the tail taller with ohlins. Who knows.
What I do know is that it is the best 700 I have spend on any bike ever. The only thing that comes close was a set of super moto wheels for a street legal YZ426, but that mod got me tickets, so its got downsides too.
Really, any increase in height puts me out for the Ohlins. My plan was just to get the emulsion type Hyperpro anyway which runs just over $600. While I don't hate the airshock, there are many things about it that bug me: The way it maxes out when unloaded, the way it makes the ABS kick in early under even moderately hard braking, and having to periodically top it off.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:25 AM   #4309
jonnyc21
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Bluhduh Rear ABS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters View Post
Really, any increase in height puts me out for the Ohlins. My plan was just to get the emulsion type Hyperpro anyway which runs just over $600. While I don't hate the airshock, there are many things about it that bug me: The way it maxes out when unloaded, the way it makes the ABS kick in early under even moderately hard braking, and having to periodically top it off.
I have the Ohlins on my X and my ABS still has a tendency to kick on quite easy in the rear. I think its just a combindation of the front dampening kicking in a bit late and the way the bike is a bit heavy in the front, but the Ohlins did help...
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:51 AM   #4310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffster View Post
Blue Loctite and lots of torque seems to work just fine.
I'll quit worrying then.
Thanks
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:33 PM   #4311
Butters
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KTM tank - follow up

My first tankful with the auxiliary KTM tank went 167 miles when the low fuel light came on. Due to the cold weather and traffic, I only averaged 52mpg for that tankful, so I'm going to call it 175 miles to reserve under my typical use (~55mpg). My odometer seems to be off about 3-4%. I'm thinking this set up can get me to 200 actual miles, but there would be some white knuckles for those last several miles. I think it would just depend upon what kind of mpg I was seeing when the reserve light came on.

Just looking at the additional expansion in Tim's (TBarstow) setup, I'd bet he'll see 200 miles/tank pretty reliably. I don't know if I'll go back and expand the tank further. I'm pretty happy as it sits - especially for under $200.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:57 PM   #4312
Royal Tiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters View Post
My first tankful with the auxiliary KTM tank went 167 miles when the low fuel light came on. Due to the cold weather and traffic, I only averaged 52mpg for that tankful, so I'm going to call it 175 miles to reserve under my typical use (~55mpg). My odometer seems to be off about 3-4%. I'm thinking this set up can get me to 200 actual miles, but there would be some white knuckles for those last several miles. I think it would just depend upon what kind of mpg I was seeing when the reserve light came on.

Just looking at the additional expansion in Tim's (TBarstow) setup, I'd bet he'll see 200 miles/tank pretty reliably. I don't know if I'll go back and expand the tank further. I'm pretty happy as it sits - especially for under $200.
I have the same tank you have Butters. I stopped for gas at exactly 180 miles and it took 3.1 gallons between the two tanks. I ride it like I stole it and get 58-60mpg consistently.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:00 PM   #4313
Royal Tiger
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Touratech sprocket guard?

It's not listed on their website. Any other company make something similar? I have a plastic cover on it from when I bought it. It looks fairly solid.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:32 PM   #4314
TobyG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal Tiger View Post
Touratech sprocket guard?

It's not listed on their website. Any other company make something similar? I have a plastic cover on it from when I bought it. It looks fairly solid.
http://www.bashplates.de/BMW-G-650-X...650-X::43.html

CNC'd out of a solid block of aluminium.

They do offer international shipping:


Countries outside the EU:
up to 0,5 kg = 6,00 EUR
up to 1,0 kg = 9,00 EUR
up to 2,0 kg = 19,00 EUR
up to 5,0 kg = 35,00 EUR
up to 10,0 kg = 45,00 EUR
up to 20,0 kg = 66,00 EUR
up to 30,0 kg = 87,00 EUR
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:38 PM   #4315
Royal Tiger
Pz VI B, Sd Kfz 182
 
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Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TobyG View Post
http://www.bashplates.de/BMW-G-650-X...650-X::43.html

CNC'd out of a solid block of aluminium.

They do offer international shipping:


Countries outside the EU:
up to 0,5 kg = 6,00 EUR
up to 1,0 kg = 9,00 EUR
up to 2,0 kg = 19,00 EUR
up to 5,0 kg = 35,00 EUR
up to 10,0 kg = 45,00 EUR
up to 20,0 kg = 66,00 EUR
up to 30,0 kg = 87,00 EUR
Thanks Toby. That looks better then my plastic one.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:41 PM   #4316
macadamia
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Location: Idaho Falls, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TobyG View Post
http://www.bashplates.de/BMW-G-650-X...650-X::43.html

CNC'd out of a solid block of aluminium.

They do offer international shipping:


Countries outside the EU:
up to 0,5 kg = 6,00 EUR
up to 1,0 kg = 9,00 EUR
up to 2,0 kg = 19,00 EUR
up to 5,0 kg = 35,00 EUR
up to 10,0 kg = 45,00 EUR
up to 20,0 kg = 66,00 EUR
up to 30,0 kg = 87,00 EUR
I have this on my bike. It looks great, see the photos below...





I also purchased the stainless steel counter sprocket bolt, which uses an allen wrench instead of a socket for removal. The bolt is installed in the above photo and the photo below shows the stock and the new bolt side by side.

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Old 12-16-2012, 08:26 AM   #4317
Butters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macadamia View Post
I also purchased the stainless steel counter sprocket bolt, which uses an allen wrench instead of a socket for removal. The bolt is installed in the above photo and the photo below shows the stock and the new bolt side by side.
I thought stainless steel isn't the best material to use on high stress fasteners. I was under the impression SS tends to be a bit more brittle and is typically a lower grade than typical class 8.8 metric fasteners.

Actually, here is something from the bolt depot website:

Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is an alloy of low carbon steel and chromium for enhanced corrosion characteristics. Stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant for the price and because the anti-corrosive properties are inherent to the metal, it will not lose this resistance if scratched during installation or use.
It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to the low carbon content, stainless steel cannot be hardened. Therefore when compared with regular steel it is slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel fastener but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners.
Stainless steel is also much less magnetic than regular steel fasteners though some grades will be slightly magnetic.
18-8 Stainless
18-8 refers to any stainless steel containing approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. This is the most common stainless designation for hardware. For information on 18-8 stainless steel material properties see our Material Grade Identification and Properties Chart.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:39 AM   #4318
Royal Tiger
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Out of curiosity does anyone have the stock fender liner/tail piece/license plate mount laying around they want to get rid of? Mine is cracked.

Thanks.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:15 PM   #4319
Erik RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters View Post
I thought stainless steel isn't the best material to use on high stress fasteners. I was under the impression SS tends to be a bit more brittle.....
As in your link, it's not more brittle, it would be if the carbon content was higher

It lacks a bit in tensile and shear strength though indeed asfaik (and some other minor deficiencies under dynamic or thermal load ). On the other hand, there's not toomuch stress on a sprocket bolt that's only job is to keep the sprocket from sliding off. The real forces are, or should be, on the contact with the axle. I think that in general (I'm glad I live in Europe, not US, or else I would have probably 15 lawyers on my back by late tonight ), the oem safety factors taken into the equation, there is no harm to replace a lot of the 8.8 grade bolts by proper A2-70 ss.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:53 PM   #4320
Tracks1
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SS hardware is a bad idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters View Post
I thought stainless steel isn't the best material to use on high stress fasteners. I was under the impression SS tends to be a bit more brittle and is typically a lower grade than typical class 8.8 metric fasteners.

Actually, here is something from the bolt depot website:

Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is an alloy of low carbon steel and chromium for enhanced corrosion characteristics. Stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant for the price and because the anti-corrosive properties are inherent to the metal, it will not lose this resistance if scratched during installation or use.
It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to the low carbon content, stainless steel cannot be hardened. Therefore when compared with regular steel it is slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel fastener but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners.
Stainless steel is also much less magnetic than regular steel fasteners though some grades will be slightly magnetic.
18-8 Stainless
18-8 refers to any stainless steel containing approximately 18% chromium and 8% nickel. This is the most common stainless designation for hardware. For information on 18-8 stainless steel material properties see our Material Grade Identification and Properties Chart.
The use of Stainless Steel hardware can be ill-advised do to the dielectric reaction of two dissimilar metals...it will cause sever corrosion in aluminum because you've created a battery.

Here's a link to a Galvanic Corrosion Series Chart:
http://www.rowantechnology.com/wp-co...ries_Chart.jpg


SS hardware also tends to gall and destroy threads.

If you use SS in place of steel be sure to use lots of anti-seize and then remove and clean all threads on a recurring bases.

Tracks1 screwed with this post 12-17-2012 at 10:10 AM
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