Enduralast from Euro Motoelectrics

[adventure950]

Bye Cube - I presume you mean the Ducati voltage regulator - if so they do seem to be very poor I have one on my bike that has functioned faultless to date and covered many miles - but my other a spare from John does not put out the right voltage (however this had been lent to my mate maybe he cooked it on his harness?) He had stated both his were faulty from new and he has now bought an alternative make of voltage regulator which has proved to be much more reliable. I do think if there is an ongoing problem with Ducati VR then this is an area that needs addressed.



installed an Enduralast on my R80RT ’83 on Feb 1, 2008. In the summer of 2009, I saw the odd volt spike to 18V, which lasted for a 30 sec span or so, then went away. I have an FAA-approved LED readout on my RT for voltage, so voltage is correct. After 30 secs it would pop back down to 14.2 or so, like flipping a switch. This happened infrequently enough I ignored it. Later in 2010, the occurrences happened more frequently and then one day it “stuck” at 18V, luckily when I was a block away from home. At that point I pulled my spare that I’d carried on the ’86 since 2005 (the G/S, by the way, never had an issue to date) and installed the spare. To my astonishment, the problem was still there. So I pulled the G/S cube from the bike and plugged it in the RT. Problem solved…. Weird. (so I probably rode around the world with a bad spare…)

I have the cubes wired with a similar harness on both bikes, and the spare proved bad on the G/S as well.

So I don’t know how unlucky one get to have a new installed spare be bad, as well as an operational one going bad too.

I exchanged a number of emails and phone calls with John, a process which cost me all credibility I’m afraid with him, as he refused to believe there was a “dual” failure and reasonably he assumed I was in the wrong.

However, he extended the ultimate service and shipped me a new cube, which when installed worked promptly.

I’m about to order a spare again, which I will install in the G/S, and take the “known good” cube as a spare on my next world trip, planning of which is putting a smile on my face these days.[/QUOTE]

[adventure950]

Malindi - Bye Cube - I presume you mean the Ducati voltage regulator - if so they do seem to be very poor I have one on my bike that has functioned faultless to date and covered many miles - but my other a brand new spare from John does not put out the right voltage, my mate found both his were faulty from new and he has now bought an alternative make of voltage regulator which has proved to be much more reliable. I do think this is an area that needs addressed as the Ducati regulator appears to be at best problematic or have poor quality control during manufacture.

[bereahorn]

[Malindi]

If there is an alternative rectifier... Please post details.

[adventure950]

Yes there is an alternative voltage regulator/rectifier - I will get the details today and post them.

[adventure950]

This is I believe the regulator my mate used - They are made in the UK and of excellent quality. I will double check - but it was the later modified version of the rr51 (as the early model /old stock ones had some type of problem) http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR51.html also there is the possability that the rr52 might suit some applications - if you look at this link they do a huge amount of different voltage regulators
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acata...tifier_206.htm

[Malindi]

Originally Posted by adventure950

This is I believe the regulator my mate used - They are made in the UK and of excellent quality. I will double check - but it was the later modified version of the rr51 (as the early model /old stock ones had some type of problem) http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR51.html also there is the possability that the rr52 might suit some applications - if you look at this link they do a huge amount of different voltage regulators
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acata...tifier_206.htm

Thanks!

[adventure950]

Confirm its the rr51 to go with the Endurolast - I managed to pick a spare one up cheaply. However I spoke to John at endurolast and he stands by the Ducati items stating they are one of the bigger VR manufacturers - supplying many bike manufacturers and their build standards and quality control are second to none. He believes that sub standard fitting , faulty or old batteries and wiring harnesses have more to do with VR problems than the VR themselves - and I have to agree that his argument make sense. The VR are being fitted even with the best will in the world in some cases by people with the best intention but maybe not always with the best skill or experience - an area without of his control. I have found John always willing to help and offer advice and his viewpoints often backed up by a sensible argument. So on this one I have decided to comment no further on the quality of the Ducati items. cheers. jake.

[Steve G.]

Sorry for bumping this in a different direction for the moment. Long story, but I've just been given a complete Enduralast 450 system free and am about to install it on my '91 GS. Really the main reason is I want to get rid of the original rotor before it flies apart and takes out everything.
I really curous as to how many owners of this unit have bothered to put a new oil seal in there at the same time? I havn't got a seal handy.

As for the reg/recifier, Ducati has used Denso regs for a long time and they are of questionable quality. I'm hoping they're not from the same supplier as Ducati.

[Airhead Wrangler]

I installed my enduralast system exactly as supplied by Euromoto electrics and haven't touched it since (except when I dismantled the whole bike). No complaints yet. Also, I didn't switch out the oil seal either. It didn't leak before and didn't leak after.

[Malindi]

Originally Posted by Steve G.

Sorry for bumping this in a different direction for the moment. Long story, but I've just been given a complete Enduralast 450 system free and am about to install it on my '91 GS. Really the main reason is I want to get rid of the original rotor before it flies apart and takes out everything.
I really curous as to how many owners of this unit have bothered to put a new oil seal in there at the same time? I havn't got a seal handy.

As for the reg/recifier, Ducati has used Denso regs for a long time and they are of questionable quality. I'm hoping they're not from the same supplier as Ducati.

I have two Enduralast systems, on neither did I replace the oil seal.

[Steve G.]

Originally Posted by Malindi

I have two Enduralast systems, on neither did I replace the oil seal.

Thanks Kevin!

BTW, where did you end up installing the regulator/rectifier on your machines?

Also, really envy your current world tour. Be safe. I hear Lima, Peru is a frickin' gong show of criminals.

[Malindi]

Originally Posted by Steve G.

Thanks Kevin!

BTW, where did you end up installing the regulator/rectifier on your machines?

Here are my setups:
http://berettaconsulting.com/other/E...Enduralast.htm

Originally Posted by Steve G.

Also, really envy your current world tour. Be safe. I hear Lima, Peru is a frickin' gong show of criminals.

[Steve G.]

Originally Posted by matteo

I got my Enduralast alternator today. Very nice unit. Installing it mechanically was very straightforward. The electrical not so easy. I think that Euromotoelectric would do well to make this simpler. I understand that the different models have different needs, but all situations use the yellow to yellow connection and that still required some work to make the connection.

So first of all, I want to thank bcostell and sharkey for their photos. It helped a lot. But I'm still confused about the white and black connector. Where is the best place to hook them up? The instructions say to connect it to a green/blue wire, but bcostell, I think you say to hook it up to the blue wire. Is this the blue wire to this connector.



This connector is not currently attached to anything. It makes me think that I did something wrong.

Finally, I disconnected a blade from the starter when I was removing the old harness. I think this is engages the starter motor. Is this the same black wire as is on the hanging connector?

I'm pretty sure it was connected to the right side of the diode board, as seen in this picture.



I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't keep a note on where the starter wire came from.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

I just wanted to bump this great picture up. I'm currently installing this unit on my bike. I will admit right off the bat that I'm more of a mechanical person than an electrical wizz. The whole procedure has gone well, certainly not a 1 hour install,,,,,,for me anyways. It's the switched power source, and relay wires that had/has me flumuxed, to the black and white wires off of the reg/rectifier. The above pic helps with [I think] the starter relay power, but where the heck do you find switched power, and charge light wire without disassembling the stock harness?
John Rayski has been very quick to my initial questions about regulator location. But this unit is hardly plug & play, I'm very reluctant to start cutting away at the stock harness, but I'm assuming now that this is the case. The illustrations in the kit, and the components' style of plug ins/attachments, are all very different than what the kit has.

[photomd]

If you're looking for a switched lead, jumper off the running light in the back. FWIW, I have a relay under the tank that provides current to my heated grips. This way the grips turn off/on with the key. I soldered a wire to the running light in the back as a source. My R/R is connected to the wire coming from the tail light: works great.

I've had the enduralast system on my airhead since 06 or 07. I thought it was straight forward to install, but did have some "learning experiences". Mine had to do with the connections. I was having a weak charge under load. I found my R/R had a diode out, but as I worked through the system, I found the connectors that came with the system were loose. I pulled all those connectors and soldered everything with shrink wrap. It's been good since. As a result, I don't trust those threaded connectors.