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Old 12-06-2012, 03:27 PM   #8071
BuckMoto
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
May be time for a look at the clutch slave. You can simply unbolt it from the side of the engine without draining it to check for leaks. When's the last time you changed the fluid? The slave may be gummed up causing the increase in effort.
You mean you're supposed to change it? It's been too long so I'm hoping that reduces the effort. I think it might take me more than 10 minutes so I guess I need to practice this more often!

Your bike looks amazing as always!
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:47 AM   #8072
nattyMo
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Thanks Buck,

I suspect that your slave cylinder may be gummed up, as I said. You may well need to replace the o-ring in the slave. it's not that difficult but does require the correct sized o-ring naturally. As long as you have the system drained you may as well service the slave cyilinder, even if it's not to the point of failure it may be soon enough. If you're feeling flush with cash I'd go so far as to upgrade to a Oberon or Sigutech clutch slave if you really want to reduce the clutch effort. You may want to be sure your clutch jet is clean while your at it.


http://sigutech.com/index.php?option...6&lang=english

http://www.oberon-performance.com/ac...ders_KCSC.html

These are both sold in the us as well, KTM Twins and CJ Design to name two sources.

Good luck to ya'
NM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckMoto View Post
You mean you're supposed to change it? It's been too long so I'm hoping that reduces the effort. I think it might take me more than 10 minutes so I guess I need to practice this more often!

Your bike looks amazing as always!

nattyMo screwed with this post 12-07-2012 at 04:56 AM
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:05 AM   #8073
snowhawk jockey
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There are two "tech" ways to bleed, as well as the hand-pumped, conventional method.

Tech one is use a large volume syringe and inject the fresh fluid from the bottom and allow it to flow out the master res in a controlled manner. This drives the air and oil contaminates up the system to bleed it. Air likes to move this direction. Back in the day, this method was the KTM recommended service procedure for mineral oil based Magura clutches. Dunno what they suggest for Brembo Dot3/4 clutches...

Tech two is to use a vacuum bleeder and suck the new fluid down the system and out the bleeder nipple, using vacuum force. Very easy to do this way with a H/F $19 hand pumped vacuum bleeder.

edit to add:
Then there is the baby oil vs Magura blood vs 2.5w fork oil debate: which to use and get the smoothest and most consistent feel
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:57 AM   #8074
Garry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey View Post
edit to add:
Then there is the baby oil vs Magura blood vs 2.5w fork oil debate: which to use and get the smoothest and most consistent feel
Don't forget ATF as a viable clutch fluid, or the easy gravity bleed method (just open the bleed nipple a bit and refill the reservoir as needed).
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:35 AM   #8075
mcmann
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SM to SMT project

I completed my SM "touring edition" project. Added SMT center stand, crash bars, hand guards etc.




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Old 12-08-2012, 10:44 AM   #8076
wpbarlow OP
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Looks very sharp!
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:34 PM   #8077
Thumper996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KHVol View Post
Maybe I get pi$$ed off too easliy.but this Pi$$e$ me off ...I have always liked how my 950 SM is leak free..seems to be a very tightly made engine. Last night after a short ride I walk back out to the garage and see oil dropping under the bike..."

"WTF, my bike ? Can't be."

Okay, no big deal, it's a known issue, order the "Oil sight tube" replace it in 5 minutes. No big deal.

I go to KTM-Parts to order it and the part is $20.00 plus....B$, for a 6 inch piece of plastic pipe...with shipping it is now $27.95...I will still be able to afford cat food to eat over the weekend but that is still B$. Everyone has to make a profit, I want them to, it is my hobby so am willing to pay for the diversion..... but...this is a known problem, a design flaw and for KTM to charge this much markup is just not satisfactory.

Okay, I know I'm boring you to death... but after all , this is MY hair-fire...so I am going to, protest, I'll show 'em. So I go online to Parts Warehouse. the part is only $17 for a 6 inch piece of plastic tube..yeah, I showed 'em..saved $3...take time to fillout the order sheet *again*....go to checkout and shipping is now an additional $17.95 UPS to ship a 4 oz. piece of plastic in an envelope...$34.95 total !!!! ... for a 6 inch, 4 oz plastic tube.

Now, the degeneneration of this plastic sight tube is well known, happens frequently. Replacement with the local variety tube ( 150 degree) can crack, dumping oil on your rear tire, ruin your whole day, possibly add a page to your health record. Definite safety issue.

I guess I am just pi$$ed at having to pay so much for such a small part.... but, small things send big messages sometimes .......
Wasting your time, cap it off and go with an ADV dipstick and forget about it.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:52 PM   #8078
mrdirtbikerider
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mcmann: It looks great! Did the crash bars bolt right up or need modification?
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:51 PM   #8079
mousitsas
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Location: Athens, Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey View Post
There are two "tech" ways to bleed, as well as the hand-pumped, conventional method.

Tech one is use a large volume syringe and inject the fresh fluid from the bottom and allow it to flow out the master res in a controlled manner. This drives the air and oil contaminates up the system to bleed it. Air likes to move this direction. Back in the day, this method was the KTM recommended service procedure for mineral oil based Magura clutches. Dunno what they suggest for Brembo Dot3/4 clutches...

Tech two is to use a vacuum bleeder and suck the new fluid down the system and out the bleeder nipple, using vacuum force. Very easy to do this way with a H/F $19 hand pumped vacuum bleeder.

edit to add:
Then there is the baby oil vs Magura blood vs 2.5w fork oil debate: which to use and get the smoothest and most consistent feel
There is also tech 3.
You open slightly the bleeding nipple, insert a long tube whose end is inside the fluid reservoir of the master cylinder. Pump 10-20 times fast is all it takes to have a perfectly well bled system, whether it is a brake or clutch. You will need to keep the fluid up in the master by adding fluid as necessary. Tech 1 & 2 have failed sometimes to work on my rear brake. Tech 3 never disappointed!
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:30 PM   #8080
mcmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdirtbikerider View Post
mcmann: It looks great! Did the crash bars bolt right up or need modification?
I had to rotate the top front mounting bracket back to the rear top mounting bracket (with a long spacer) and add spacers to widen the lower forward main mounting bracket. They are very heavy duty . . . Two frame mouting points should be fine. Much better than no crash guard. Very sturdy setup. The SM tank is wider and lower than the SMT tank. The SM has spoiled me . . . Even the Adventure feels too heavy now! Of course the AKra's full exhaust system helped lose 20 lbs.



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Old 12-09-2012, 09:39 AM   #8081
preppypyro
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I love how you have that bike set up. For the riding I do, I should do similar.

Very well done man!
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:19 PM   #8082
wpbarlow OP
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Been riding it a bit lately. Still fun after all these years. From an earlier tag get- before it got too cold. Almost looks clean in this picture


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Old 12-13-2012, 04:17 AM   #8083
rw4x4van
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
Been riding it a bit lately. Still fun after all these years. From an earlier tag get- before it got too cold. Almost looks clean in this picture

Walter,... didn't you have an Adventure or an SE also??
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:00 AM   #8084
wiseblood
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Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
From an earlier tag get- before it got too cold.

Speaking of which: I discovered that the 10 amp switched accessory circuit is insufficient to run BOTH my heated jacket liner AND gloves at the same time. So, I have to probably run a 15-amp line to the powerlet plug if I want all my gear to work.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:30 AM   #8085
nattyMo
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Been running my heated grips on the switched circuit and my heated jacket on it's own un-switched circuit. All has been well until I forgot to turn off the jacket's heat controller a few weeks ago. Drained the battery dead, good thing I have a LiFePo battery. Recharged it, so far it's been holding the charge. Fingers crossed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wiseblood View Post
Speaking of which: I discovered that the 10 amp switched accessory circuit is insufficient to run BOTH my heated jacket liner AND gloves at the same time. So, I have to probably run a 15-amp line to the powerlet plug if I want all my gear to work.
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