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Old 12-11-2012, 05:46 PM   #4516
Stinky151
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The biggest thing is that if you decide to do a 685 kit (or alone those lines) I think you need a different cylinder. Beyond that, check the doohickey and broken/missing bolts, and ride the wheels off it. As far as parts, very little has changed on these bikes in 25 years. Finding parts really isn't an issue.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:26 PM   #4517
GreatWhiteNorth
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KLR FAQs

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJD19892 View Post
So sorry to interupt the gas mileage conversation but I'm needing some advice. I've been looking for a new dual sport bike because my 95 dr bit the dust a couple months ago. Today a guy came into our store and mentioned that he's wanting to sell a 95 KLR 650. 11,000 miles, its supposed to be in pretty good cosmetic shape and has new tires. I know it has a dead battery but thats not a big deal, I bet the battery off my DR would fit it actually. So my question, Buy it or no?? He's wanting 1000 but I'm sure I can get it for 800 which sounds like a good price to me. I don't like having a bike thats gonna need a lot of work though so what do I really need to watch out for on this bike? The DR had a big overhaul in 96 so used parts were nearly impossible in this area. Did KLR's have anything like this? So pretty much any advice would be great!

This is well worth reading: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#knownissues

I would pull the valve cover, check the valve clearances and pull the cam bearing journal caps one at a time to ensure they're still in good shape. There's some pics in this thread showing what it looks like when the journals start galling: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671941 If the cam bearing journals are showing signs of galling, repair is very expensive (requires a new head). I guess what I'm trying to say is that what initially might appear to be a good deal may not be if you need to throw a lot of money at it later.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #4518
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Actually,1996 got the newer cylinder and other updates.
Its 1996-2007.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #4519
newcastleadam
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Provided it doesn't need anything, $800-1000 for a runner ain't bad.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:29 PM   #4520
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The conclusion: There was still air in the system. We took the lever off. Used a 1/4" ratchet extender to push the piston farther than the lever was capable of. There was basically about an 1/8" of travel. Once that pushed the rest of the air out, we continued a couple more pumps and pressure built right up.

The really good news is that it was all worth it because this new CZR system is much more powerful than my stock system was.

Thanks to all for the help.


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Old 12-11-2012, 09:50 PM   #4521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Actually,1996 got the newer cylinder and other updates.
Its 1996-2007.
You are correct...too much traveling lately and brain is not working correctly. I nuked my post as a result
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:27 PM   #4522
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=3936

Check out this guy.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:10 AM   #4523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
"She's seen 122mph on flat ground many times (verified off other bikes)"


A land speed record on a KLR yea right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evOOEnOYuOk
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:02 AM   #4524
fleshpiston
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Ok, a question for the KLR electrical gurus......

According to the factory and Clymer manuals there is a yellow/black wire running from the CDI to the starter relay. This is only present on 1990 and later models.

What purpose does it serve, and will there be any issues running a 96 harness (with the wire) on an 89 motor????


Thanks for any input.




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Old 12-13-2012, 09:24 AM   #4525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleshpiston View Post
Ok, a question for the KLR electrical gurus......

According to the factory and Clymer manuals there is a yellow/black wire running from the CDI to the starter relay. This is only present on 1990 and later models.

What purpose does it serve, and will there be any issues running a 96 harness (with the wire) on an 89 motor????


Thanks for any input.




.
Can't be definitive, but . . . on this wiring diagram http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-c...ng-diagram.gif , BLACK/YELLOW is a common connector to the battery negative terminal, or GROUND. Don't know if, prior to 1990, other ground connections were used for the CDI and for the starter relay; the wiring diagram linked shows YELLOW/BLACK as a shared battery negative connection, throughout the wiring scheme.

Before you swap out wiring harnesses, I'd suggest you take your ohm-meter and run a continuity check between the CDI and the starter relay connections and ground, with and without the BLACK/YELLOW wire connected to each terminal. If the terminals show continuity with ground without the wire, looks like machts nichts to me, suggesting the '90-and-later connection might be for redundancy and insuring a low-resistance path to ground. Postulation and inference, only!

XDragRacer screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 09:31 AM
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:43 AM   #4526
fleshpiston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Postulation and inference, only!

But very much appreciated

That diagram looks very different from the one shown in the Clymer... they show it as being a direct connection, not tied into the normal ground circuit



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Old 12-13-2012, 09:56 AM   #4527
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Here is a great wiring diagram link

It's a ground.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:24 AM   #4528
mcpenner
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Speaking of wiring, I was looking behind my fairing (05 klr) and noticed two open wires with connector plugs. Are these open and available to connect things to? If no, what is missing on mine. If yes, can I use them for lights of usb charging port or ??
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:32 AM   #4529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcpenner View Post
I was looking behind my fairing (05 klr) and noticed two open wires with connector plugs.
They're for the "city light" on the European versions. They ARE available. One is positive and one is ground. The positive is switched with the ignition.

I use mine to turn on a relay in my extra dashboard The relay controls a larger-gauge circuit and provides power to GPS, jacket, etc. that I don't want powered when I turn off the ignition. If it was only USB (5V, .5A or 1A) I'd connect the two city-light terminals directly to the USB converter.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:41 AM   #4530
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[QUOTE=Grinnin;20240898] They ARE available. One is positive and one is ground. The positive is switched with the ignition.

Thanks Grinnin, that makes me happy I was about to start wiring up from the battery to install a charger and a plug for my vest. So much easier. How much can those little wires take? I think my max would be electric vest, GPS or phone, and heated grips??
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