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Old 12-11-2012, 11:53 PM   #61
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And now, more from the Motor Man:

Quote:
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
Once all of the pieces were cleaned, inspected, machined, weighed and balanced it was time to get down to nuts and bolts. There was one more measurement that is very critical to a Subaru engine. This is the fit of the piston to the cylinder wall. From the factory this measurement is .0004. To put it into words, it is less then one half of one thousandth of an inch. To visualize it: take a hair from a blonde (they are about .003) split it lengthwise in half (.0015), and then in half again, (.000525). That is almost how tight the pistons fit from the factory. By comparison most chevy engines are made with a tolerance of over one-half to two thousands brand new. Two thousands clearance is where Subaru suggests you rebuild their motors. Of course I did not make our engine as tight as factory. There is a fine line between too tight where a race motor will seize and too much where you hear the pistons slap and or burn oil.





The case halves are ready to assemble. There were three separate washings they go through. The last one is by hand with hot soapy water. The rods are bolted to the crankshaft first and the case halves are bolted together.








And some teaser photos from our quick test run at the dunes last Saturday...you might just notice the old girl got a little lift and some new shoes

More on this later....

















And before you say it...yes I am blessed to have some great places to ride/drive within 20 minutes of my house. Wait till you see the car tearing up the local forest roads!

Details on the lift and tires coming up...but overall, I'm very happy with the way the set-up is coming.

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Old 12-12-2012, 06:11 AM   #62
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Sube with blown struts???

Another $200 car getting transformed to rally.

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Old 12-12-2012, 09:01 AM   #63
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Another $200 car getting transformed to rally.

That's awesome!
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:08 AM   #64
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As an aspriring Subaru dork, thank you for this thread.... this is awesome!
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:00 AM   #65
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By the look of one of the pics, a question comes to mind: Are you worried about suspension geometry? In other words, since you "lifted" it with just the springs/struts, are you worried about the stock controls arms and such allowing for full and correct travel? I know the lift is not huge, but since you don't have a huge amount of travel to be working with in the first place, it seems you might need to address...
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:00 PM   #66
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OK, if you want to see Subaru madness, the run up Mount Washington (substantially steeper than Pike's Peak) is required viewing.



And the famous roll by the late Colin McCrae at X Games.

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Old 12-12-2012, 06:54 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longtallsally View Post
By the look of one of the pics, a question comes to mind: Are you worried about suspension geometry? In other words, since you "lifted" it with just the springs/struts, are you worried about the stock controls arms and such allowing for full and correct travel? I know the lift is not huge, but since you don't have a huge amount of travel to be working with in the first place, it seems you might need to address...
Great Points, thanks for bringing them up. I definitely was concerned about any ill effects of adding a lift.
I removed the rear sway bar to allow for more articulation in the rear. I did not change the springs yet, just added strut spaces. Here you can see the sway bar being pushed in which also caused a lot of stress on the endlinks.



So with no rear sway bar and a taller stance, the car handles very different on the road. Still very good, but it is not "on rails" anymore and cannot be driven that way. There are compromises when building any sort of vehicle for a specific purpose. This is not a road rally car. But it does have to have decent highway manners because I will be driving thousands of miles on pavement. I can tell you that it still rides great on twisty roads and highway with the lift and sans sway bar. Removing the swaybar is very common on lifted 4x4's racers...now that I said it, you will notice it much more while sitting behind them in traffic or when seeing them on a trailer.


And here are the strut spacers...which you will be hearing and seeing more of:



The suspension appears to work through its travel arc without binding or problems. I did install camber bolts on the rear struts for a little more negative camber to compensate for the lift. I had been planning on ordering camber bolts online but while at my local Les Schwab Tire Center I asked if they had some for my car. They did.



Online they are about $30 bucks shipped for two. I got one for $20, but the instant gratification was worth it. Once I got my head around it and actually followed the instructions, it was an easy install. I corrected the positive camber issue caused by the lift, and I will be bringing it in for a proper 4-wheel alignment first chance I get.


Probably the most common issue that appears with lift's on Subaru's, is actually the axle angles; Too steep which causes them to fail or wear prematurely. The axle angles on our car, seem to be just fine, but I will be watching them and listening for the tell-tale clicking.

The tires themselves are slightly taller and rubbing on body parts can be an issue. However I only have a slight rub and that is because the front fender is damage and distorted. Once that fender is replaced, it won't be an issue, and a sledge hammer will solve the problem for now.

One of the reasons we wanted the engine running and installed is so we could test both the engine and the car itself and how everything works together. I do not want a mudder or a rock crawler, just a little more ground clearance, which we have achieved.

And this will never be a trophy truck or be able to jump or take the whoops like one. This ain't that build.

This is our testing period and finding and addressing issues is what this is all about. I am also looking at maybe putting some wheel spacers on to widen the stance slightly. Before someone says something, yes, this might mean then changing something else to compensate (ie, axle length, fender clearance, etc.). Subarus have been lifted by a lot of people so there is lots of documentation of what works and what doesn't, and we are looking at, and will probably try, a lot of options, before deciding what we will race with.

It should also be noted that once the cage and all strut tops are tied into the cage, things will obviously handle much differently than stock. This is also why, although I say I will be beating on the car, it is relative to the amount safety equipment and re-enforcement that is installed in the car at the time!

Something to remember is that this thread's timeline is kind of wonky as I am Tarantino'ing it by jumping back and forth in time to tell the story. So the way something on the car looks in tomorrow's post may not be the way it actually looked on the car in my driveway today. It may have been three weeks ago!



Coming soon: I am actually working on a write up on these strut spacers, since the manufacturer is sponsoring us with a free kit for a proper evaluation!



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Old 12-13-2012, 10:57 AM   #68
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Good stuff, and since you are (were) aware, I'd say it's a non issue. Also, I wouldn't get too riled up about no sway bar. A PSYCHO fast guy in an E30 a good number of years ago said that handling should be tuned with springs and not sway bars. In other words, you have a nice independent suspension, why take some of its functionality to keep all 4 paws down with a sway bar?
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:37 AM   #69
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You might like this.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:38 AM   #70
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Wow. Just. Wow. Finally brought myself up to speed on the Subaru craziness. Awesome!
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:54 AM   #71
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You bastard, you are making me want to build up a car for this now. I keep looking at my Jeep Cherokee in the driveway thinking it would make a great Jeep Speed racer.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:55 PM   #72
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^ I keep looking at XJ Cherokee's thinking the weights not bad, they could be made to go quick!
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:01 PM   #73
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Quote:
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You bastard, you are making me want to build up a car for this now. I keep looking at my Jeep Cherokee in the driveway thinking it would make a great Jeep Speed racer.
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^ I keep looking at XJ Cherokee's thinking the weights not bad, they could be made to go quick!
Would they take the punishment? I've read where the suspension mounts rip free from the body, under hard use. IDK, as I'm not a Jeep expert. I'm living vicariously through others.
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:18 PM   #74
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here's a link to a cool old Subie rally car;

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&type=1&ref=nf
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:14 PM   #75
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Don't want to take this too far off-topic, but Cherokees are actually pretty expensive to build/race if you wanna go fast. Since they have not real frames to speak of, you have to do a lot of reinforcing and after building a rollcage and after adding everything else that goes into something like that, you're still stuck with a shitty platform. It's not just Cherokees, it's pretty much any/all production vehicles. Why work around the limitation of a body and chassis? It's a waste of time and money. Would be a lot better off figuring out what you want to end up with and just starting from scratch. Or buying someone elses' tube chassis buggy/racecar/whatever. Unless you are married to some romantic notion of driving a particular kind of vehicle. Nothing wrong with that.
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